| 2 4 0 T U R B O . C O M D A V E ' S V O L V O P A G E
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| 2 4 0 T U R B O . C O M D A V E ' S V O L V O P A G E
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Go to 240 Headlight Page | ||
| 240 TAILLIGHT DIAGRAMS |
240 "Komfort" Blinker Mod |
|
| Dealing with the Bulb Failure Sensor (Part 1) |
||
| By-Passing the Bulb Failure Sensor (Part 2) | ||
| By-Passing a Bulb Failure Sensor (Part 3) | ||
| 240 REAR BULBS |
Painting 240 Taillights |
|
| HARDWIRING Your 240 Taillights |
||
| Quick Fix using FOIL |
||
|
||
This switch is a metal case design with a 5-pole plastic plug. In most cases this plug only uses 3 poles, so only 3 wires will exist. In some non-USA countries this switch will use 5 poles. More on this is found in my 240 HEADLIGHT PAGE: https://www.240turbo.com/headlight.html.  
|
  |
 |
 My #1 Recomendation: My best advice for those who are simply tired of seeing the bulb failure light come on when a bulb hasn't really failed is as follows. Step 1: Reach under the dash and find the offending bulb in the back of the instrument cluster. Step 2: Twist and remove. Step 3: Take it outside and throw it as far as you can! More info and DIAGRAMS concerning the HEADLIGHTS circuits can be found in my Headlight Relay Page.
|
FAILURE SYMPTOMS: The symptoms of failure can be headlights or tail lights (or sometimes just one whole side) that will not work even after verifying the fuses, switches, headlight relays and wiring are all in good order. This DIY bypass plug below was featured in the following discussion forum: turbobricks.com/index.php/deleting-bulb-failure-circuits.240085/ 
|
If you don't feel like going to the trouble of modifying a Bulb Failure Sensor internally, there is a MUCH SIMPLER way to bypass these circuits without using a sensor. And I don't mean to suggest cutting off the 15-pin plug and splicing wires together (which of course you can do if you like). A better method, with no barbaric butchery, is to assemble some simple crimp terminals with a few short pieces of wire. Then unplug your sensor and insert the new leads into the female 15-pin connector, respective of the bypass diagrams shown below As it turns out, this connector uses fairly common 3.5 mm bullet terminals. So all you need are some male bullet terminals and some wire and some heat-shrink tubing for insulation. Coincidentally, these 3.5 mm male terminals are available cheap on-line or also in my Harness Parts Page HERE.  In the photos below, you can see how these bypass bullet terminals and wires will look. The configuration is different for different sensors, so pay attention to the diagrams. If your car uses a sensor not shown above, it will be a simple thing to open it up to see what pins are bridged.    Tamara from Albuquerque sent the below photos of her bypass project: "I just accomplished the bypass on the failed bulb relay on my 240. Worked like a charm! Thank you so much for all of your pains-taking work in putting together all of the detailed and supremely helpful information on your website. It is so appreciated. I found it easier to deal with by removing the instrument cluster. That way I could get both hands on the relay and sit upright to put the bypass pieces in. I also had to lever the relay and connector apart with a screwdriver. I had fought with it for awhile to no avail then I realized some leverage was called for. It made a little click and came apart easily. That's when I discovered it had a barb holding it together. It's great to have brake lights again!" 
 |
 This first image below is a common 1156 bulb, which does have uses as a substitute for an Osram 7506 (brake or reverse). The Sylvania 5007 (5w) or 5008 (10w) on the right has the same base, but THIS is the correct bulb to use for a 240 taillight.   Below image is a typical '85-93 240 Taillight.  |
  If you need to tint AMBER, I have not tried any transparent amber paints yet, but I have heard of good results from the below Tamiya TS-73 Clear Orange for Plastics.  I have also read that you can get good results from a transparent STAINED GLASS paint. Krylon also makes such transparent paints in aerosol in ORANGE and RED. I have not used those yet. |
This rear bulb info below is from a 1984 240 Owner's Manual.  In 1985 the 240 sedan models received revised 6-panel lights, which included a dual filament brake/tail light bulb (brake light was moved to the lower outside). And a new rear fog lamp was added for some models. These tail lights remained in use until 1993.  This rear bulb info below is from a 1989 240 Owner's Manual.  Most people with these tail lamps know what it's like to have bulbs that stop working due to connection issues between the plastic bulb holder and the printed circuit board conductor. It can be frustrating. Hardwiring them sounds like a big deal, but it's not hard at all. It means you will be tossing out your old circuit boards and then attaching wires directly to the contacts on your bulb holders. The wires can be soldered or crimp connectors can be used. I prefer crimp connectors. HARDWIRING GUIDE These two 8-pin connectors will be deleted during this procedure. Note that these wire colors may not be all the same as yours, so check that. Volvo wasn't fully consistent about that.  This guide recommends that you remove and discard the existing green printed circuit boards (PCBs). And as mentioned above, you will need to cut off the white plastic 8-pole wire connectors above. Then new wires will be spliced to the existing wires in your car, which will then go directly to your existing bulb holders. Here's a general wire color guide below showing wire colors for early and later taillights. The listed wire colors in this image are all 12V+ wires. These taillights also use some added black GROUND wires, which are not shown here. So each bulb needs to have a ground. The GROUND locations or positions for each bulb holder will be noted in images below as GROUND or “G.” It bears repeating: These added ground wires are not listed in the 1 through 8 list below, but every bulb gets one ground.  This guide applies to all 240s with 6-panel taillights. Keep in mind that there are some small wire color differences depending on the year up to 1984 and from 1985 to 1993. This guide will show how to wire the lights to work like these images. If your bulb designations are different from above, you can deviate from these instructions if needed. If you're not sure, using the pin numbers shown in the above images, numbers 1 through 8 for the left taillight and 1 through 8 for the right taillight, will be what I recommend.  Your taillights will have these plastic bulb holders (or bulb sockets) shown below. There are two distinct types for different bulbs bases. Some bulb holders are black and some are white. This first one below is a TWO-contact bulb socket. The bulb base type base is often similar to universal type 1156, but the correct bulb will often be a smaller 5 or 10 watt bulb (Osram or Sylvania 5007 or 5008).  And this one is a THREE-contact bulb socket, made for dual filament bulbs. This bulb base type is Osram 7225 or 7528 or universal type 1157.   I want to point out there are multiple options when attaching wires directly to bulb socket contact tabs. 1. SOLDERING. NOT what I prefer. Solder is fragile and will break eventually. 2. Using CRIMP push-on terminals. Attaching a CRIMP TERMINAL to the bulb holder is my personal preference because it makes it less likely that connections will break off when changing bulbs. If you're using common .250 inch (6.3 mm) FEMALE crimp terminals, you'll need to TRIM the METAL TAB CONTACTS on the bulb sockets, because those contacts will be too wide to slip into the .250 inch female terminals. Trimming the contacts down can be done with sheet metal snips. I don't have a photo of that, but you can use your imagination.  If you prefer CORRECTLY SIZED 7.9 mm FEMALE TERMINALS, which will fit directly and slide onto to each bulb socket tab, these 7.9 mm terminals can be found in my page HERE.   MORE RECOMMENDATIONS: You’ll find that a little extra room is needed for the new terminals under the bulb sockets, so the metal tabs should be carefully bent away from the tail light to increase room slightly between the bulb holder and the taillight.  The above photo showing a bend is exaggerated. You should start by bending a little bit first. You’ll know how much bending is needed when you try inserting and twisting the bulb socket into the taillight hole. If it’s too tight, it will need some extra room and the tab can be bent a little more. If it’s too loose, then bend it less. The bulb socket should be just snug enough to stay in place when you insert and twist it. You’ll need to create some extra room on some bulb sockets near each tab in order to be able to bend the tab. This is done by trimming some of the plastic. Usually some small tin snips or wire cutters can do this. Or you can disassemble the bulb socket and grind or file the plastic.  NOTE ABOUT REAR FOG LAMPS  Not all 240s were equipped with rear fog lamps. A rear fog lamp is a lamp that is activated with a switch on the dash. If your car DOES NOT have this, you may have the option of ignoring those wires or you may use bulbs in these positions for another purpose (such as another tail lamp). If you use this to add a rear fog lamp, note that in all U.S. 240's I've seen, the original setup used only ONE side (DRIVER SIDE), not both sides. A rear fog lamp is not very special. It’s just another bright bulb meant as a safety measure in heavy fog. It’s brightness is the same as a brake lamp bulb. Simply follow the wire connection guide for each wire color. And remember one black ground wire goes to each bulb. After the wires are connected, install the bulb sockets into the respective holes in the taillights. A random example photo below  The hardest part about this project is figuring out what wires go to which terminal on which bulb socket. If it helps, get a pencil and paper and start drawing diagrams of the wire colors going to the tail lights on your car and use a test light to trace those colors to each bulb socket and each terminal on those bulb sockets. Then figure out which tab on each bulb socket should receive each wire. Remember that some bulbs may be DUAL FILAMENT BULBS and those sockets have THREE contacts, two hots and a ground. SOME MORE 240 WIRING DIAGRAM EXAMPLES BELOW 0.75 mm wire is close to AWG 18-20. COLORS: BL = Blue; BN = Brown; GN = Green; GR = Gray; R = Red; SB = Black; W = White; Y = Yellow. 1979-84 240 
1985-93 240  HELPFUL ARTICLES:
cleanflametrap.com/tony/tail_light_color_code_v0.htm
youtube.com/watch?v=LFouOkHW8ho brickwalla.wordpress.com/2011/11/16/hard-wiring-my-tails turbobricks.com/hard-wiring-240t-tail-lights.63287 Here's a hard-wiring video that will also help give you the general idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQRtz5mD8Aw |
   |
 |
|
