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Volvo 240 Hydraulic Clutch
and Stuff

     UPDATED: February 13, 2019                       CONTACT       
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Ok . . . .  So I thought I would put together a page to keep track
of all the hydraulic clutch parts I have put in my 240. 
Useful info. Maybe it will help you. Nothing here is for sale (at least from me). 

Let me back up a bit before getting to my hydraulic clutch stuff. 

<<< This is the clutch I put into my 245 way back in 2004 when I first installed a T5 transmission into my old 245.  It was custom made for me by Clutchnet in SoCal because nothing else they had in an 8.5 inch clutch would hold the torque of my 2.6 liter stroker motor. 

<<< The pressure plate was assembled using two standard spring sets stacked together.  The result was a clutch with 3000 lbs of clamping force.  It was later offered to the public by Clutchnet because it was such as simple, reliable design.  The friction disc I used was nothing special. Simple organic type.

The reason I mention all this is because it will help you understand why this clutch had a tendency to stretch and snap clutch cables.  And long before they would snap, they'd require nearly constant attention with adjustments because of all that stretching. Not good stuff.

<<< I know someone who even went to the trouble of modifying his 240 clutch pedal to accept TWO clutch cables. 

So back a number of years ago when I installed the T5 trans in my 242, I went with the same clutch.  I know there are better clutch setups available nowadays. Lots more cools stuff has become available over the years because of the increasing popularity of these cars. I'll get around to trying a better one someday.  For now, this is what I have.  So after a few snapped cables, I knew I needed to upgrade to hydraulic. 

This hydraulic upgrade was completed in 2011.
<<< This is the Volvo 260 clutch master cylinder I used, Volvo PN 1205729, manufactured by Fag.  It was used in manual trans 264s in North America and in all manual trans 240s in the UK and Australia because they were right hand drive.  It was still available new when I started buying these parts in 2011.  It still seems to be available from some high-dollar sources. You can find them used and I think rebuild kits are still available if you do. 

Here's a source for a rebuilt one that was still available as of February 2018.
Centric PN 136.39000 at Rock Auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/centric,13639000,clutch+master+cylinder,1996

<<< So then I needed a clutch hose and a slave cylinder. Back in 2011 I was able to locate a USED hose (like this one shown). I also chose the same slave cylinder in this photo, which is from a 740. The parts in this photo are all manual transmission 740 parts. Note the different looking master cylinder. 740s used a master cylinder with a remote reservoir. And the length of this master cylinder is much longer than one for a 240. it's loo long to fit in a 240.  The 240 inner fender gets in the way of a long master cylinder. 

NOTE: The hose thread pitch in these Volvo master cylinders is 12 x 1.0 mm (M12x1.0). Same for the thread pitch in the 740 slave cylinder.  If you decide to have a custom hose made by your local hydraulic hose shop, the original length of this pictured hose is about 38 inches, but anything above about 30 inches will fit just fine.

The inner piston diameter for both the Fag 240 master cylinder and 740 slave cylinder is 19 mm (0.75 inch).

Building your own clutch hose.
An original Volvo clutch hose is not easy to find.
This image is a banjo adapter that can be found on eBay or other places. It's thread size is M12x1.0 (12 x 1.0 mm) for the master cylinder and AN -3 for the hose. Optionally you can choose -4 AN hose, but these directions I will use -3 AN. Search for "Steel M12x1.0 to 3AN banjo fitting".  Using a banjo fitting helps with a tight fitting master cylinder that has very limited room for the hose.

Between the two adapters, you can seek out a premade hose or build one yourself. A premade one can be 36 inches.  If you buy the parts to build one, choose a hose that is rated for high pressure, such as this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3260  Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Brake & Clutch Hose that can handle 3000 psi.  You want it in -3 AN size and then you'll need -3 female hose ends, such as these: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4154 Pegasus PN 3261-3-00 straight 3AN hose end. You can find good instructions for assembling the hose on YouTube or find a hydraulic hose shop and have them build one for you.

<<< Here's an adapter for the slave cylinder if you use the 740 type, which also has M12x1.0 threads.  Search for "Steel M12x1.0 to 3AN adapter."
You should use a brass sealing washer on the M12 side. If you can find one, I recommend a metal-bonded sealing washer shown below.

<<< This is a metal-bonded sealing washer.  It has a rubber o-ring embedded in it.  It's generally used when a flare fitting is not used, such as on the M12 end of this adapter.  McMaster Carr has them: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=1blhle3, click "Sealing Washers," then "Metric High-Pressure Metal-Bonded Sealing Washers."  Your local hydraulic hose shop may have them too.  They can also be found at Pegasus Racing, called Stat-O-Seal Sealing Washers: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3245

As mentioned, a short master cylinder is important in a 240.
Close fender.
Little room.

<<< The 740 hose and slave cylinder are a perfect fit on the typical M46 bell housing. 

The circular mount on an M46 (or M47) bell housing is designed to hold either the cable end or this slave cylinder.  This slave is Volvo 740 PN 8601783 (older PN 6843913).  It's still available from a number of sources. There are some early Volvo bellhousings that have a different configuration and use a different slave cylinder.  This type can be seen in the below diagram.  You're on your own with those since I have no useful info on that slave.

Here's a source for a rebuilt one that was still available as of February 2018.
Centric PN 136.39002 at Rock Auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/centric,13839002,clutch+slave+cylinder,2044

And you'll need this external snap ring (AKA: external circlip, retaining ring) to keep the slave cylinder locked in the mount.  It's Volvo PN 914463 (part number for 740 part).  Inside diameter is 30 mm (1 3/16 inch or 1.187 inch).

<<< CAUTION: Be careful of this little PLASTIC END CAP on the slave cylinder push rod. 
If your clutch fork has a HOLE in it (as this one does pictured below) where the plastic piece on the push-rod pushes, you could experience a failure like I did.

<<< One second you have a working clutch. The next second, your pedal goes to the floor!

<<< The plastic cap sheered off and the push-rod went right through the hole in the fork.
 <<< So I then drilled that hole out and installed a large socket head (allen) bolt in there. 
Now the end of that rod rests in the center of that socket head. 

One of these here.

<<< Here's a useful diagram showing hydraulic clutch components. Part descriptions listed below.
1      Clutch. (381207) 1232912
2      Driven plate. (1377560)  1377561
2      Driven plate. M50, M51 (381296) 1377562
5      Hexagon screw. 986985
7      Nut plate BW55 REPL 1PCS 1272393-8,
        1PCS 948645-7,
7a    Cover washer. 1272393
7b    Flange lock nut. 985868
8      Hexagon screw. BW 55 955293
9      Clutch pedal R.H.D.  1205721
9      Clutch pedal  L.H.D.  1205719
10    Bushing. 675555
11    Shaft. 1206770
12    Return spring. 1205725
12a  Sleeve. 1229285
13    Hexagon screw. (955333) 970963
14    Flange lock nut M10x13.4 (971083)
15    Pedal pad. (666176)  1272021
16    Edge protection moulding LG 20 mm
17    Master cylinder. 1205729
18    Flange screw. 982793
19    Hexagon nut. 985877
20    Bolt. (947609)  977253

21    E-circlip ALTER 2.  951669
21    Split pin ALTER 1.  907824
22    Pipe L.H.D.  1205730
23    Tube R.H.D LG 1500 mm. 946814
24    Fitting screw R.H.D. 987593 
25    Fitting nut R.H.D. 946815
26    Clamp R.H.D. 951188
27    Six point socket screw R.H.D. ST4, 8x16 (969475)
28    Bracket. 1228785
29    Clutch line. 1206840
30    Gasket CH-38889,11994
31    Toothed washer. 940143
32    Hexagon nut. 946830
32a  Clamp. 952629
32b  Flange screw.  985739
32b  Washer.  986498
33    Control cylinder M50. M51 REPL 1 PCS
33    Control cylinder M45, M46. 1272370
34    Hexagon screw. 940142
35    Release fork. 381274
36    Joint ball. STD, TRANS M45, M46 M50, M51.
36    Joint ball. O.S.  381686
37    Release bearing. 381213
38    Boot. 381288

Converting from a cable to hydraulic clutch requires that you have a compatible bell housing. 
<<< These TWO photos show a later type M46 or M47 bell housing.
  One part that gives it away as a later type is the opening at the top of the bell housing (top-left in the first pic) for a crank position sensor, which came on 1989 and later cars.  That's not really important for this information. Just a bit of trivia.

You won't necessarily need a bell housing that has an opening for a crank position sensor unless you're using an engine management system that requires it, such as LH 2.4. The important thing is that the bell housing has the second pivot ball mounting hole for a hydraulic clutch FORK.  There are some early M46 bell housings that do not have this second mounting hole.

<<< Here are two different clutch forks to compare.

The top clutch fork is a typical cable type. 

The bottom one is a typical hydraulic type from a 740. Any typical 740 clutch fork is perfect for this project. 
Part numbers that should work: 3549983, 1220763.

I found a used 260 hydraulic clutch pedal and fitted it into my existing manual trans pedal box. 

A hydraulic pedal is a bit longer than the cable pedal because it mounts in different holes in the pedal box.  The hydraulic pedal holes are higher and will already be in the pedal box.

<<< Here is where the holes are for mounting the hydraulic pedal.

<<< Here is another view of the above hydraulic pedal. 

Finding one of these pedals wasn't too difficult. Parts like these can occasionally be found in the Turbobricks for sale section or by placing a wanted ad in the wanted section where lots of helpful 240 owners will see it: https://forums.turbobricks.com/ 

There are some Turbobricks threads in which people have made their own hydraulic pedals or modified a shorter cable type pedal to work as hydraulic.  That sort of work was beyond my skills. There are some examples below.

<<< Here's one. More can be found at: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=326370&page=6

Here's another. More can be found at:

And as of May 2018
STS Machining is now offering newly made aluminum hydraulic clutch pedals: https://www.stsmachininginc.com/products/240-hydro-clutch-ped

Master Cylinder Update 2017
After about 6 years of use, the Volvo 260 Fag master cylinder shown at left began to fail.  The piston seal began leaking fluid out of the back when pushing the clutch. 

This is probably due to having a heavy 3000 lb. clutch, but it could also have happened because this was a 30 plus year old NOS master cylinder when I bought it new.  I could have decided to rebuild it, but I thought the chances of it continuing to hold up to my heavy clutch were not as good as I once thought.  So I decided to try a different master cylinder.  There are a number of choices.  I'll show you a few I considered below.

Whichever master cylinder you choose, be sure to choose the correct inner piston size.  Most aftermarket master cylinders will give you several size choices.  The Fag 260 master pictured here has a 0.75 inch (19 mm) piston. That's the size I would be looking for (but if you read to the end, you'll find out I later changed my mind).

<<< A master cylinder like this one from Wilwood may be a good choice.
It's certainly short enough to fit in a 240.  I did not care for the hose outlet being on top like how it's pictured here. It makes bleeding more difficult than something with a hose sloping downward.  When bleeding a hose that rises above the master cylinder, air will get trapped in there.  So when bleeding, it will be pretty much impossible to get that air out if you have someone pushing the pedal while you're under the car opening the bleed valve.  It can be done with a power bleeder that has the ability to push a lot of fluid through the hose under pressure to overcome that big air bubble. 
If I had chosen one like this, I think I would have put a 90 degree fitting on there or maybe a banjo fitting if it will fit.

A benefit of this master cylinder is that it offers an advertised stroke of 1.4 inches, which is longer than the 1.1 inch stroke for the Tilton shown below. That bit of info became more important later. You'll see if you keep reading.

Here's a comparison photo above of three master cylinders. 
Left side: Original Volvo 260 Fag.
Middle: Tilton 75 Series. Definitely a compact one.  Wilwood has a nearly identical model called Wilwood Compact.
Right side: Wilwood. This one is sadly too long to fit in a 240.  It hits the fender and the outlet is on the end where the fender hits. Possibly it could fit if a banjo fitting was put on the end.  I didn't try that, so I don't know.

<<< I chose the Tilton 75 Series. This one has a .750 inch (19 mm) piston.
Soon after getting it I discovered that there was an unexpected problem. There always is. 

The 240 firewall sheet metal just above where the master cylinder hole is interferes with the reservoir. It's because the reservoir is positioned so far to the rear and very close to the mounting flange. Basically the reservoir hits the firewall before the mounting flange does. You can shake your head in disbelief all you want. Yes, It's true.

One solution if there is room could have been a remote reservoir. I did not think my 240 had room for that when I was doing this work, however months after completing my project I found this photo at left of a Wilwood compact master cylinder with a remote reservoir. So it seems it can be done.

<<< More on the thread where this photo came from can be found at https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=335335.

FIXING FIREWALL CLEARANCE:  A perfect solution for the Tilton master cylinder and reservoir I decided to use would have been a 1/2 inch spacer shaped like the mounting flange so I could move this thing 1/2 inch further from the firewall. Such a spacer did not exist when I was searching.

So my solution was to use a couple 1/2 inch thick round spacers and some longer bolts I had on hand. There's one spacer shown in this photo.  Not the most elegant solution, but it gets the job done just fine and mounting at the firewall is still very solid. Problem fixed.

<<< Then it was time to have a new hose made. I took the master and slave cylinders down to a local hydraulic hose shop.  Keep in mind that most hose shops are there to make hoses for heavy equipment and they may or may not be experienced with automotive or hot rod stuff. 

Master Cylinder:
The Fag Volvo 260 master and 740 slave both have a thread pitch of 12 x 1.0 mm female. The new Tilton has 3/8-24 thread pitch, which is the same thread as AN -3.  The Tilton master came with a couple of adapter fittings. One was that double male brass AN-3 flare fitting in the photo. The hose shop had JIC fittings and hose on hand since that's what they used for making hydraulic lines. They ended up using that double male flare along with an adapter fitting they supplied stepping it up to AN -4 size to mate with a new hose end, a 45 degree JIC (-4) female swivel fitting that was crimped to -4 high pressure Golden21/ISO 3000 psi hose. 

Slave Cylinder:
On the slave cylinder end the hose shop supplied a male JIC (AN -4) to metric (12 x 1.0 mm) adapter (with a metal-bonded sealing washer). That mates to the straight JIC female swivel fitting the shop crimped onto the other end of the hose.

Total length of the hose when completed was about 38 inches.  Cost was about $60.

<<< This is a metal-bonded sealing washer.  It has a rubber o-ring embedded in it.  It's generally used when a flare fitting is not used, such as on the M12 end of this adapter.  McMaster Car has them: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=1blhle3, click "Sealing Washers," then "Metric High-Pressure Metal-Bonded Sealing Washers."  Your local hydraulic hose shop may have them too.

<<< This clutch push rod needed some adjustment.  For my use it needed to be shortened almost 1/2 inch compared to when it was used with the 260 master (even with the 1/2 inch spacers at the firewall).  The threads allow a small adjustment, but for the adjustment I needed, that forward rod had to be shortened a small amount (maybe 1/8 inch) using a bench grinder.

Installation completed.
<<< To those of you who didn't believe me that spacers were needed to fit this master cylinder/reservoir combo, have a close look at there photos. Yes, these show the master cylinder WITH spacers. The reservoir cap is almost touching the firewall.  It does clear though.  

Change Update: June 2017
I believe the piston stroke for the Volvo 260 Fag master cylinder is about 1.3 inches. The stroke for this Tilton 75 Series master is only 1.1 inch.  This presented an issue in my car and it meant I was not getting as much pedal travel as before. So the clutch wanted to engage very close to end of the pedal travel near the floor.  I didn't like that.  I needed a bit more stroke, but the Tilton 75 master cylinder is not available with a longer stroke. The Wilwood version is the same. So I changed to a Tilton 75 with 13/16 inch bore (the fatter one on the right side).  I was a bit surprised to see the difference in the much bigger body design.  Adding that extra 1/16 inch bore adds about 17% more volume in the stroke.  It's equal to increasing the stroke from 1.1 inches to 1.29 inches. That did the trick for me.

If you can add to the info in this page, please email me. CONTACT 
Thanks, Dave

<<< When it comes time to bleeding brake or clutch hydraulics, nothing beats the Motive Power Bleeder.  I won one of these many years ago in a Volvo Davis Meet raffle and it has served me well for years and years.  DIY bleeding with no need for a helper.  Perfect.  About $50 for you if you aren't a lucky raffle winner.

AN Thread Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread
Automotive Fittings Explained: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/automotive-fittings-explained/28780
Useful discussion treads:

Fixing a Bent or Mangled
Clutch Pedal Box

Back in 2009 I thought my clutch cable must be stretching because my clutch kept going out of adjustment.  I was paranoid that it would snap in heavy traffic somewhere, so I got a new cable and pulled out the old one. When I compared the two together, they were identical . . .  no stretching to be seen. Then, while installing the new cable, I found something strange.
<<< I could see that the metal framework for the pedal box was seriously bent.  The pivot for the pedal was being pushed closer to the firewall. This explains why clutch engagement kept moving closer to the floor, making it seem as though the cable was stretching.

<<< After I pulled out the pedal box, I could see the damage was pretty serious.

<<< So after straightening the metal walls, I needed to reinforce the metal to keep it from doing that again. You can see here I added some steel sheet metal  to strengthen that side wall. This all worked pretty well (for a few years).
<<< I used some clip-on barrel nuts (also known as U-nuts) that I got from McMaster-Carr, PN 95210A150. Thread pitch is metric: M6 x 1mm. These are made for a panel thickness of 0.8 to 4 mm. The bolts I used are typical metric bolts with a 10 mm hex head that you'll find in your 240.  If you don't have any, McMaster- Carr does: PN 98093A436, M6 x 1mm, 16mm long with flange head.

<<< Then in 2013 while pushing in the clutch pedal I felt a SNAP.  Then the clutch pedal was suddenly very crooked as you can see here.  I had already switched to a hydraulic pedal before this happened.

<<< After pulling out my instrument cluster, I could see this welded captive nut in the cowl had been ripped out.

<<< I didn't have a welder (or welding skills) and I didn't want to pull the entire dash out and take the car somewhere to be welded, so I made a steel plate that would fit up under the cowl.  I took the plate to a welder and had that nut welded on.

<<< So I carefully formed that steel plate to fit up in there. Then I drilled a bunch of holes and inserted thread inserts so it could be bolted to the cowl and it would be STRONG.

<<< Here's the plate bolted up under the cowl.  The new welded nut is in the center.  That repair was done.

<<< Here's the pedal box I was using on the right.  You can see it's a little bent compared to the box on the left.  The bend near the firewall happened when the captive nut broke.  But since these pedal boxes are not what I would call sturdy, I decided to do a better job of reinforcing it before putting it back in. 

<<< Here we go.  I added some serious bracing this time. 

<<< This view is of the side that faces the driver.  That plate comes off before installing the pedal box, since there are fasteners that you need to reach behind it.  Then that plate can be re-installed.

<<< Here is an in-progress photo looking through the instrument cluster opening. The newly reinforced pedal box is being bolted in.

<<< Here I have completed the installation and the front plate has been installed.

<<< Here's another view.  Hopefully this is the last time I have to deal with the pedal box.

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