|Volvo 240 Hydraulic
|UPDATED: February 13, 2019 CONTACT|
O M A I N S
|Let me back up a bit before getting to
my hydraulic clutch stuff.
<<< This is the clutch I put into my 245 way back in 2004 when I first installed a T5 transmission into my old 245. It was custom made for me by Clutchnet in SoCal because nothing else they had in an 8.5 inch clutch would hold the torque of my 2.6 liter stroker motor.
|<<< The pressure
plate was assembled using two standard spring
sets stacked together. The result
was a clutch with 3000 lbs of clamping
force. It was later offered to the public
because it was such as simple, reliable
design. The friction disc I used was
nothing special. Simple organic type.
The reason I mention all this is because it will help you understand why this clutch had a tendency to stretch and snap clutch cables. And long before they would snap, they'd require nearly constant attention with adjustments because of all that stretching. Not good stuff.
|<<< I know someone
who even went to the trouble of modifying his
240 clutch pedal to accept TWO clutch
So back a number of years ago when I installed the T5 trans in my 242, I went with the same clutch. I know there are better clutch setups available nowadays. Lots more cools stuff has become available over the years because of the increasing popularity of these cars. I'll get around to trying a better one someday. For now, this is what I have. So after a few snapped cables, I knew I needed to upgrade to hydraulic.
This hydraulic upgrade was completed in 2011.<<< This is the Volvo 260 clutch master cylinder I used, Volvo PN 1205729, manufactured by Fag. It was used in manual trans 264s in North America and in all manual trans 240s in the UK and Australia because they were right hand drive. It was still available new when I started buying these parts in 2011. It still seems to be available from some high-dollar sources. You can find them used and I think rebuild kits are still available if you do.
Here's a source for a rebuilt one that was still available as of February 2018.
Centric PN 136.39000 at Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/centric,13639000,clutch+master+cylinder,1996
|<<< So then I
needed a clutch hose and a slave cylinder. Back
in 2011 I was able to locate a USED hose (like
this one shown). I also chose the same slave
cylinder in this photo, which is from a 740. The
parts in this photo are all manual transmission
740 parts. Note the different looking master
cylinder. 740s used a master cylinder with a
remote reservoir. And the length of this master
cylinder is much longer than one for a 240. it's loo long to
fit in a 240. The 240 inner
fender gets in the way of a long master
NOTE: The hose thread pitch in these Volvo master cylinders is 12 x 1.0 mm (M12x1.0). Same for the thread pitch in the 740 slave cylinder. If you decide to have a custom hose made by your local hydraulic hose shop, the original length of this pictured hose is about 38 inches, but anything above about 30 inches will fit just fine.
The inner piston diameter for both the Fag 240 master cylinder and 740 slave cylinder is 19 mm (0.75 inch).
your own clutch hose.
An original Volvo clutch hose is not easy to find.
<<< This image is a banjo adapter that can be found on eBay or other places. It's thread size is M12x1.0 (12 x 1.0 mm) for the master cylinder and AN -3 for the hose. Optionally you can choose -4 AN hose, but these directions I will use -3 AN. Search for "Steel M12x1.0 to 3AN banjo fitting". Using a banjo fitting helps with a tight fitting master cylinder that has very limited room for the hose.
Between the two adapters, you can seek out a premade hose or build one yourself. A premade one can be 36 inches. If you buy the parts to build one, choose a hose that is rated for high pressure, such as this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3260 Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Brake & Clutch Hose that can handle 3000 psi. You want it in -3 AN size and then you'll need -3 female hose ends, such as these: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4154 Pegasus PN 3261-3-00 straight 3AN hose end. You can find good instructions for assembling the hose on YouTube or find a hydraulic hose shop and have them build one for you.
|<<< Here's an
adapter for the slave cylinder if you use the
740 type, which also has M12x1.0 threads.
Search for "Steel M12x1.0 to 3AN adapter."
You should use a brass sealing washer on the M12 side. If you can find one, I recommend a metal-bonded sealing washer shown below.
<<< This is a metal-bonded sealing washer. It has a rubber o-ring embedded in it. It's generally used when a flare fitting is not used, such as on the M12 end of this adapter. McMaster Carr has them: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=1blhle3, click "Sealing Washers," then "Metric High-Pressure Metal-Bonded Sealing Washers." Your local hydraulic hose shop may have them too. They can also be found at Pegasus Racing, called Stat-O-Seal Sealing Washers: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3245
As mentioned, a short master cylinder is important in a 240.
The 740 hose and slave cylinder are a perfect
fit on the typical M46 bell housing.
The circular mount on an M46 (or M47) bell housing is designed to hold either the cable end or this slave cylinder. This slave is Volvo 740 PN 8601783 (older PN 6843913). It's still available from a number of sources. There are some early Volvo bellhousings that have a different configuration and use a different slave cylinder. This type can be seen in the below diagram. You're on your own with those since I have no useful info on that slave.
Here's a source for a rebuilt one that was still available as of February 2018.
Centric PN 136.39002 at Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/centric,13839002,clutch+slave+cylinder,2044
<<< And you'll need this external snap ring (AKA: external circlip, retaining ring) to keep the slave cylinder locked in the mount. It's Volvo PN 914463 (part number for 740 part). Inside diameter is 30 mm (1 3/16 inch or 1.187 inch).
| <<< Be careful of
this little PLASTIC END CAP on the slave
cylinder push rod.
If your clutch fork has a HOLE in it (as this one does pictured below) where this plastic piece pushes, you could experience a failure like I did.
| <<< One
second you have a working clutch. The next
second, your pedal goes to the floor!
<<< The plastic cap sheered off and the rod went right through the hole in the fork.
So I then drilled that hole out and installed
a large socket head (allen) bolt in there.
Now the end of that rod rests in the center of that socket head.
<<< One of these here.
<<< Here's a useful diagram showing hydraulic clutch components. Part descriptions listed below.
from a cable to hydraulic clutch requires that you
have a compatible bell housing.
<<< These TWO photos show a later type M46 or M47 bell housing. One part that gives it away as a later type is the opening at the top of the bell housing (top-left in the first pic) for a crank position sensor, which came on 1989 and later cars. That's not really important for this information. Just a bit of trivia.
won't necessarily need a bell housing that has an
opening for a crank position sensor unless you're
using an engine management system that requires it,
such as LH 2.4. The
thing is that the bell housing has the second pivot ball
mounting hole for a hydraulic clutch FORK.
There are some early M46 bell housings that do not
have this second mounting hole.
| <<< Here
two different clutch forks to compare.
The top clutch fork is a typical cable type.
The bottom one is a typical hydraulic type from a 740. Any typical 740 clutch fork is perfect for this project.
Part numbers that should work: 3549983, 1220763.
<<< I found a used 260 hydraulic clutch pedal and fitted it into my existing manual trans pedal box.
A hydraulic pedal is a bit longer than the cable pedal because it mounts in different holes in the pedal box. The hydraulic pedal holes are higher and will already be in the pedal box.
| <<< Here is where
the holes are for mounting the hydraulic pedal.
another view of the above hydraulic pedal.
Finding one of these pedals wasn't too difficult. Parts like these can occasionally be found in the Turbobricks for sale section or by placing a wanted ad in the wanted section where lots of helpful 240 owners will see it: http://forums.turbobricks.com/
There are some Turbobricks threads in which people have made their own hydraulic pedals or modified a shorter cable type pedal to work as hydraulic. That sort of work was beyond my skills. There are some examples below.
<<< Here's one. More can be found at: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=326370&page=6
Here's another. More can be found at: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=5602991&postcount=11
Master Cylinder Update 2017After about 6 years of use, the Volvo 260 Fag master cylinder shown at left began to fail. The piston seal began leaking fluid out of the back when pushing the clutch.
This is probably due to having a heavy 3000 lb. clutch, but it could also have happened because this was a 30 plus year old NOS master cylinder when I bought it new. I could have decided to rebuild it, but I thought the chances of it continuing to hold up to my heavy clutch were not as good as I once thought. So I decided to try a different master cylinder. There are a number of choices. I'll show you a few I considered below.
Whichever master cylinder you choose, be sure to choose the correct inner piston size. Most aftermarket master cylinders will give you several size choices. The Fag 260 master pictured here has a 0.75 inch (19 mm) piston. That's the size I would be looking for (but if you read to the end, you'll find out I later changed my mind).
cylinder like this one from Wilwood may be a
It's certainly short enough to fit in a 240. I did not care for the hose outlet being on top like how it's pictured here. It makes bleeding more difficult than something with a hose sloping downward. When bleeding a hose that rises above the master cylinder, air will get trapped in there. So when bleeding, it will be pretty much impossible to get that air out if you have someone pushing the pedal while you're under the car opening the bleed valve. It can be done with a power bleeder that has the ability to push a lot of fluid through the hose under pressure to overcome that big air bubble.
If I had chosen one like this, I think I would have put a 90 degree fitting on there or maybe a banjo fitting if it will fit.
A benefit of this master cylinder is that it offers an advertised stroke of 1.4 inches, which is longer than the 1.1 inch stroke for the Tilton shown below. That bit of info became more important later. You'll see if you keep reading.
I chose the Tilton
75 Series. This one has a .750 inch (19 mm)
Soon after getting it I discovered that there was an unexpected problem. There always is.
The 240 firewall sheet metal just above where the master cylinder hole is interferes with the reservoir. It's because the reservoir is positioned so far to the rear and very close to the mounting flange. Basically the reservoir hits the firewall before the mounting flange does. You can shake your head in disbelief all you want. Yes, It's true.
solution if there is room could have been a remote
reservoir. I did not think my 240 had room for that
when I was doing this work, however months after
completing my project I found this photo at left
of a Wilwood compact master cylinder with a remote
reservoir. So it seems it can be done.
<<< More on the thread where this photo came from can be found at http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=335335.
CLEARANCE: A perfect solution for the
Tilton master cylinder and reservoir I decided to use
would have been a 1/2
spacer shaped like the mounting flange so I
could move this thing 1/2 inch further from the
firewall. Such a spacer did not exist when I was
<<< So my solution was to use a couple 1/2 inch thick round spacers and some longer bolts I had on hand. There's one spacer shown in this photo. Not the most elegant solution, but it gets the job done just fine and mounting at the firewall is still very solid. Problem fixed.
Then it was time to have a new hose made. I
took the master and slave cylinders down to a
local hydraulic hose shop. Keep in mind that
most hose shops are there to make hoses for heavy
equipment and they may or may not be experienced
with automotive or hot rod stuff.
The Fag Volvo 260 master and 740 slave both have a thread pitch of 12 x 1.0 mm female. The new Tilton has 3/8-24 thread pitch, which is the same thread as AN -3. The Tilton master came with a couple of adapter fittings. One was that double male brass AN-3 flare fitting in the photo. The hose shop had JIC fittings and hose on hand since that's what they used for making hydraulic lines. They ended up using that double male flare along with an adapter fitting they supplied stepping it up to AN -4 size to mate with a new hose end, a 45 degree JIC (-4) female swivel fitting that was crimped to -4 high pressure Golden21/ISO 3000 psi hose.
On the slave cylinder end the hose shop supplied a male JIC (AN -4) to metric (12 x 1.0 mm) adapter (with a metal-bonded sealing washer). That mates to the straight JIC female swivel fitting the shop crimped onto the other end of the hose.
|Total length of the hose when completed was about 38 inches. Cost was about $60.|
<<< This is a metal-bonded sealing washer. It has a rubber o-ring embedded in it. It's generally used when a flare fitting is not used, such as on the M12 end of this adapter. McMaster Car has them: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=1blhle3, click "Sealing Washers," then "Metric High-Pressure Metal-Bonded Sealing Washers." Your local hydraulic hose shop may have them too.
This clutch push rod needed some
adjustment. For my use it needed to be
shortened almost 1/2 inch compared to when it was
used with the 260 master (even with the 1/2 inch
spacers at the firewall). The threads allow
a small adjustment, but for the adjustment I
needed, that forward rod had to be shortened a
small amount (maybe 1/8 inch) using a bench
Installation completed.<<< To those of you who didn't believe me that spacers were needed to fit this master cylinder/reservoir combo, have a close look at there photos. Yes, these show the master cylinder WITH spacers. The reservoir cap is almost touching the firewall. It does clear though.
I believe the piston stroke for the
Volvo 260 Fag master cylinder is about 1.3 inches.
The stroke for this Tilton 75 Series master is
only 1.1 inch. This presented an issue in my
car and it meant I was not getting as much pedal
travel as before. So the clutch wanted to engage
very close to end of the pedal travel near the
floor. I didn't like that. I needed a
bit more stroke, but the Tilton 75 master cylinder
is not available with a longer stroke. The Wilwood
version is the same. So I changed to a Tilton 75 with 13/16
inch bore (the fatter one on the right side).
I was a bit surprised to see the difference in the
much bigger body design. Adding that extra
1/16 inch bore adds about 17% more volume
in the stroke. It's equal to increasing the
stroke from 1.1
inches to 1.29 inches. That did the trick
If you can add to the info in this page, please email me. CONTACT
When it comes time to bleeding brake or
clutch hydraulics, nothing beats the Motive Power Bleeder.
I won one of these many years ago in a Volvo Davis
Meet raffle and it has served me well for years
and years. DIY bleeding with no need for a
helper. Perfect. About $50 for you if
you aren't a lucky raffle winner.
AN Thread Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread
Automotive Fittings Explained: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/automotive-fittings-explained/28780
Useful discussion treads: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=100636
a Bent or Mangled
Clutch Pedal Box
|Back in 2009 I thought my
clutch cable must be stretching because my clutch kept
going out of adjustment. I was paranoid that it
would snap in heavy traffic somewhere, so I got a new
cable and pulled out the old one. When I compared the two
together, they were identical . . . no
stretching to be seen. Then, while installing
the new cable, I found something strange.
|<<< I could see
that the metal framework for the pedal box was
seriously bent. The pivot for the pedal was
being pushed closer to the firewall. This explains why
clutch engagement kept moving closer to the floor,
making it seem as though the cable was stretching.
After I pulled out the pedal box, I could see the
damage was pretty serious.
after straightening the metal walls, I needed to
reinforce the metal to keep it from doing that again.
You can see here I added some steel sheet metal
to strengthen that side wall. This all worked pretty
well (for a few years).
<<< I used some clip-on barrel nuts (also known as U-nuts) that I got from McMaster-Carr, PN 95210A150. Thread pitch is metric: M6 x 1mm. These are made for a panel thickness of 0.8 to 4 mm. The bolts I used are typical metric bolts with a 10 mm hex head that you'll find in your 240. If you don't have any, McMaster- Carr does: PN 98093A436, M6 x 1mm, 16mm long with flange head.
|<<< Then in 2013 while
pushing in the clutch pedal I felt a SNAP.
Then the clutch pedal was suddenly very crooked as you
can see here. I had already switched to a
hydraulic pedal before this happened.
|<<< After pulling out my instrument
cluster, I could see this welded captive nut in the
cowl had been ripped out.
|<<< I didn't have a
welder (or welding skills) and I didn't want to pull
the entire dash out and take the car somewhere to be
welded, so I made a steel plate that would fit up
under the cowl. I took the plate to a welder and
had that nut welded on.
|<<< So I carefully
formed that steel plate to fit up in there. Then I
drilled a bunch of holes and inserted thread inserts
so it could be bolted to the cowl and it would be
|<<< Here's the
plate bolted up under the cowl. The new welded
nut is in the center. That repair was done.
|<<< Here's the
pedal box I was using on the right. You can see it's a little
bent compared to the box on the left.
The bend near the firewall happened when the captive
nut broke. But since these pedal boxes are not
what I would call sturdy, I decided to do a better job
of reinforcing it before putting it back in.
|<<< Here we
go. I added some serious bracing this
|<<< This view is of
the side that faces the driver. That plate comes
off before installing the pedal box, since there are
fasteners that you need to reach behind it. Then
that plate can be re-installed.
|<<< Here is an
in-progress photo looking through the instrument
cluster opening. The newly reinforced pedal box is
being bolted in.
|<<< Here I have
completed the installation and the front plate has
|<<< Here's another
view. Hopefully this is the last time I have to
deal with the pedal box.
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