|240 Oil Cooler Page
Updated: April 4, 2021 CONTACT
M A I N S
|Volvo Red Block OIL COOLER
This information may come in handy when working on or modifying oil cooler systems on 240s or other red block Volvos.
The factory Volvo (Wahler) oil cooler thermostat in my 240 Turbo seemed to stop working as it should. My guess is it was stuck in the open position, since it was taking forever for the engine oil to come up to temperature. So a number of years ago I decided to add an IN-LINE oil cooler thermostat. At that time I was using aftermarket 1/2 inch I.D. rubber oil hoses for the oil cooler lines.
|2019 HOSE UPGRADE AND NEW PLUMBING PROJECT
In 2019 I decided to do a complete change with all new parts for my remote oil filter and RX7 oil cooler plumbing. I was previously using cheap oil hose that I bought years earlier from Summit Racing. It had served well, but after years of heat it had begun shrinking and hardening and the hose clamps were slowly loosening and causing leaks. I could have just replaced it with new cheap oil hose from Summit, but instead I decided to upgrade to Aeroquip Socketless hose and then document the full installation here.
BETTER OIL HOSES
My suggestion if you can afford it is Aeroquip Socketless Hose (pictured below). This premium hose has a rubber core and it connects to special barbed Aeroquip Socketless hose fittings. Assembly is much faster and easier than other racing hose fittings. And routing hoses is easy because these hoses are more flexible than most other racing hose with stainless steel braided covering. Aeroquip Socketless is rated at 300 degrees Fahrenheit. More general info can be found here: https://www.jegs.com/p/Aeroquip/Aeroquip-Socketless-Racing-Hoses/750321/10002/-1
While no clamps are technically required for Aeroquip Socketless hose, a smart practice is to add simple Oetiker Clamps or Pinch Clamps. This will offer a stronger connection and seal, just in case. These clamps may be found at Summit Racing, Grainger or other parts suppliers.
Here are some videos showing the installation of Oetiker clamps:
I needed to replace the factory Volvo Wahler sandwich plate with an aftermarket adapter. Plus I decided that I would install a remote oil filter under the front right corner of the car.
The long factory threaded nipple needed to be removed. It's threaded into the block and if it's never been removed, it will be tight.
A pipe wrench will give you the grip and leverage you need.
This oil filter adapter is Derale Cooling Products PN 35703 from Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-35703.
The threads in the ports are AN -10 (O-ring). The "O-ring" means that an there is a recess machined into the ports (seen below) for an o-ring to be used under each of those hose fittings.
The hose fittings are Aeroquip FBM5163 (AN -10 male to -8 male adapters) and may be found here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm5163. These hose fitting are considered to be reducer fittings. I used them because I prefer to use smaller AN -8 oil hose for a Volvo engine. AN -8 has an I.D. of 1/2 inch, instead of larger -10 hose (5/8 inch I.D.).
The long threaded factory Volvo nipple I removed is Volvo PN 1306707.
A new, shorter threaded nipple was needed because I was removing the thick Volvo Wahler adapter plate. This caused a bit of a headache, because the only shorter nipple I had on hand was the 1 inch long nipple shown in the below photo. 1 inch was too short to get good thread engagement.
A factory Volvo short nipple, Volvo PN 418440, is 1 5/8 inches long. It was used in all Volvo 240/740 models without an oil cooler adapter plate. I don't know if it's still available. This is the same nipple used for all red blocks beginning with the B18 in 1961.
I couldn't find a nipple in that length. Nearly every 3/4-16 nipple available on-line was either 1 inch or 1.25 inch long. So I ordered a 1.25 inch nipple and I waited. To my surprise, it worked just fine. I was able to get 5 turns of thread engagement. The proper fitting 3/4-16 x 1.25 inch nipple was found here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-1034.
Aeroquip FBM5163 AN -10 male to -8 male adapter fittings shown, found here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm5163.
That is heat shrink tubing below. I've had some things vibrate loose before, so I added that as a cheap safety measure.
A lower profile (and more expensive) alternative from Improved Racing Products is also available: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/irp-env-160.
Permatex thread sealant with Teflon (PTFE) was used for all threaded adapters. This is essentially what people refer to when using "liquid Teflon tape."
While routing the hoses toward the front, there may be places where they come close or actually touch parts of the car. If you have a way to clamp them to the frame, that would be a good solution. Otherwise some rubber or foam insulating material, like this rubber sheeting, can be used to protect the hoses from chaffing.
Here's my RX7 oil cooler. It's mounted under my car behind the front spoiler openings.
That's the IN port on top. These IN and OUT ports are threaded M18 x 1.5. Mazda normally used BANJO fittings with brass crush washers on these ports.
For that top IN port I could have used an 18 mm x 1.5 to -8 AN Male Adapter and then a 180 degree AN hose fitting, but space was limited above this cooler. So I found the shown aluminum BANJO fitting (M8 x 1.5) in my parts bin and decided to make it work. It's bolted to the port using an M18 x 1.5 banjo bolt. Then I added a -8 AN Male to 3/8 inch NPT Adapter to the banjo fitting: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm5007 and then the -8 AN 90 degree Aeroquip Socketless hose end: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbl1533.
Normally this oil cooler will use a BANJO fitting with brass or aluminum crush washers on both sides. I used some metal-bonded sealing washers instead.
Here's one of the metal-bonded sealing washers below along with the fitting I used in the bottom OUT port. It's Russell PN 670561, 18 mm x 1.5 to -8 AN Male: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-670561.
I bought this set of metal-bonded sealing washers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKVYWD4/
Here's the RX7 oil cooler installed.
Here are the remote filter parts that were mounted under the front right front corner of the car, behind the bumper.
The oil filter mount has the body mount bracket. It's Permacool PN 1791: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-1791.
This fits a normal Volvo oil filter or any similar filter using 3/4-16 threads. The IN and OUT ports are 1/2 inch NPT thread.
The hose fittings used on this thermostat plate are Aeroquip FBM5008 -8 AN to 1/2 inch NPT: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM5008.
The thermostat sandwich plate below is the one without the body mount bracket. This plate allows oil flow through the filter when cold, but will restrict flow to the oil cooler until it reaches temperature. When cold, the oil goes through the filter and returns to the engine.
This is Hayden PN 205: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-205. The IN and OUT ports are 3/8 inch NPT thread.
The hose fittings used on this thermostat plate are Aeroquip FBM5007 -8 AN to 3/8 inch NPT: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM5007.
Here's the remote filter mounted in place just ahead of the front-right tire. I made a mounting bracket from sheet metal. It's a very convenient place to change filters.
The 90 degree fittings on the thermostat plate are AN -8 90 degree Aeroquip Socketless hose ends: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbl1533.
The 45 degree fittings on the oil filter mount are AN -8 45 degree Aeroquip Socketless: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbl1523.
This photo is peeking just under the front spoiler. The bottom of the plumbing is about 2 inches higher than the bottom of the front spoiler.
And here's a pic with the belly pan in place. It has a few snips to the plastic to make things fit.
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