|Volvo 240 Mods
Just a few cool mods to keep you sane and properly entertained.
|UPDATED: March 5, 2023 CONTACT|
O M A I N S
V I G A T E
T H I S
P A G E
Below index is alphabetical.
|242 C-Pillar Project
||242 Rear POWERED Vent Window||AW71 Overdrive Electrical
|AIR CONDITIONING Page||ALTERNATOR and ALTERNATOR MOD Page
||ALIGNMENT, 240 Front Toe
|Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste||3-Flash Komfort BLINKER Upgrade||BANJO Versus BONDED WASHERS
|BULB Failure Sensor PART 1
||BULB Failure Sensor PART 2
||BULB Failure Sensor PART 3
|CATCH CAN Page||CLOCK Repair|
|COOLING Fan 4-Speed Controller||COOLING Fan, Electric Page||COOLING Fan PWM Controller|
|Terminal CRIMPING Page||CUP Holder Projects|
||DASHES for 240, Crack Repair||DOME Light, LED Upgrade
|DOOR Top Vinyl Trim||DOOR Panel Builds||DOOR Lock Wires|
|DRIVING Light Brackets||EMISSIONS - Smog||ELECTRIC, Underhood Grounds|
||Fan-Belt Sizes||ELECTRIC Power Steering
|Engine - Piston - Head Cleaning DIY
|FOG Light, Driving Light Wiring||Plastic FUEL LINE Repair||FUEL PUMP In-Tank Upgrade|
|FUEL PUMP Relay Page||FUSE PANEL Page||G80 Diff in your 240|
|GAUGE CLUSTER Mods||GAUGES, Electrical||GAUGES, Lighting|
|GAUGE Dash Top Pod||GAUGE 240 Small Tach||GAUGE Speedo Recalibration|
|GROUNDS in a 240
|HEADLIGHT Relay Harness|| HEADLIGHT Relay Page
||HEADLIGHT Step Relay Elimination
|HEADLIGHT Switch||HEADLIGHT PAGE
||HORNS, Loud Cadillac 4-Note|
||IDLE Valve Project Page||INTERIOR Refresh|
|INSURANCE, Classic Car Policy||LOWERING Your 240||M46 / M47 Shift Knob Fix|
|MECHMAN Alternator Info
||MIRRORS - Power - and Switches||MIRROR Gentex - Upgrade|
|M46 Overdrive Electrical||Overdrive Auto Trans Electrical||OFFSET, Wheels|
|OIL COOLER Page||OIL COOLER Thermostats||PAINT Renew|
|Power Steering Pump Tensioner||POWER Steering, Electric Assist
||POWER Steering Rack Identification|
|RELAY Mods||REMOTE OIL FILTER Install
||SPACERS, Rear Wheels|
|SPARK Plug Cables (DIY Build)||STRUT MOUNT Install (BNE)||STEERING Hub Fix - Momo
|TAIL LIGHT HARD-WIRING||TAIL LIGHT Quick Fix (using FOIL)||TAIL LIGHT Bulbs|
|TAIL LAMPS, Painting Lenses
||TURBO Oil Drain Page|
|TURN SIGNAL Blinker Upgrade||Under-Hood Grounds||V-Belt Sizes|
|Vent Window 242 POWERED
|VINYL Trim on 240 Doors||WHEEL Adapters
||Window Switches - 240
||WINDSHIELD Page - 240
|WIPER Page||ZINC Anti-Corrosive Paste|
|I like 240s a lot and there's
nothing I like better than modifying them for
performance, handling, comfort, etc.
In this page I have outlined some cool mods I have done to my 240s and others that have been provided by other 240 enthusiasts.
Your comments are welcome: CONTACT
|240 Power Steering Pump Belt Tensioner
Curing BROKEN BOLT Issues
This happened to me. This is the belt tensioner adjuster on my 240 power steering pump.
That bolt above is not supposed to be broken. The thread is M6-1.0, about 80 mm long. It has a 10 mm head. After it broke I thought I was smart, so I ordered a new bolt with higher tensile strength.Then it broke again a while later. I was accused of not properly tightening the locking nut. I did. I also know that 240s can vibrate things loose.
The problem in my opinion is not the locking nut being tight or not tight. A skinny, weak bolt has no business being in that place.
So I began looking for a solution that would have a larger, stronger bolt.
I bought this adjuster block with bolts above made for a Mitsubishi (2000-2005 Eclipse or 1999-2003 Galant). It uses a larger M8-1.25 bolt. The bolt head is 12 mm.
This can usually be found on-line new or used by searching: "Mitsubishi alternator tensioning bolt."
Here's the Mitsubishi tensioner installed in my 240. You may find that you'll need to drill out the top hole in your bracket for that fatter long bolt.
The new threaded block will reduce clearance between the pulley and the bolt. This isn't really a problem, but just something to check when assembling.
Dorman PN 197-148 is also available. I found it was less expensive. It uses the same size bolts. The Dorman threaded block has slightly different dimensions, so keep that in mind if clearance becomes tight.
|242 Powered Rear Vent Window Project
in 2022 I completed the installation of power vent window actuators for my 242 rear vent windows. You can see that project at:
|242 C-Pillar Project Page
In addition to the above vent window project, I also made new C-pillar panels. That page can be for at:
|Aligning your TIMING BELT
Installing a new timing belt on your B21, B23 or B230 is not an ultra-challenging task, but if you're not experienced, it's good to have some useful reference info to keep from making mistakes.
The last thing you need is WRONG INFO (shown below), which I have seen in a number of technical manuals and in many online images.
The LEFT image below is WRONG.
So if you see it wrong like that in a manual or on-line page, don't use it!
Here are some more images below you might find useful.
B21 or B23
And if you need a good video on replacing your timing belt, iPd made one.
This video is specific to the later 240 with B230F.
|BANJO (CRUSH) WASHERS versus BONDED SEAL WASHERS
If you have owned a Volvo that uses BANJO FITTINGS, you might have shared my frustration with making them seal well after changing them. The factory washers, often called crush washers, where made from brass and were designed to be used one time only.
Volvo used these on oil lines, power steering racks, on fuel systems and of course on the oil pan drain plug.
Being a cheap 240 owner, I would often try re-using these washers. Sometimes this resulted in leakage. Sometimes flat-sanding a washer would renew the surface, but even a brand new crush washer can leak. This often results in the temptation to over-tighten a fitting, which of course can have a bad result all by itself.
Over the years I have also tried softer aluminum crush washers. This seemed to work better in some circumstances.
The 240 oil pan drain plug uses a brass crush washer too. Do YOU put a brand new one when YOU change your oil??? I don't.
I can't count the number of times I've heard about someone over-tightening that drain plug, resulting in damaged or stripped threads.
Then a few years ago I discovered METAL-BONDED SEALING WASHERS. Bonded seal washers have a two-part construction consisting of a structural metal ring and an interference fit rubber seal. When compressed, they create an ultra-tight high-pressure seal. These are commonly installed in high-pressure hydraulic applications and can certainly be used in static sealing locations, such as drain plugs.
For those of you who don't want "rubber" on your high-pressure hose seals, you can find these with Nitrile rubber, also known as NBR or Buna-N. Here are some sources for those below.
I bought this set of metal-bonded sealing washers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKVYWD4/
I now use one of these bonded seal washers on my oil drain plug. Perfect seal every time.
|240 Window Switch Diagram Info
If you need some diagram info for a 240 window switch, see the images below.
242 diagram and 244 diagram.
|DIY Engine PISTON and HEAD Cleaning Tips
I had to share this video I found. If you're cleaning an old engine, head, or pistons yourself, here's a great video.
|ALTERNATOR and ALTERNATOR MOD Page
|240 Hood Insulation
Maybe you don't care about 240 hood insulation, but if you do, I've begun compiling some info here just for you.
Most 240s did not have any hood insulation.
To my knowledge, the first 200 series with factory hood insulation pads were the 260 series (264 and 262C) and diesel equipped 240s. The first 240 non-diesel to come with the insulation pad was the 240 Turbo (1981 to 1985). After 1986 the 240 hood became NON-insulated once again, until the final year of production in 1993. The 1993 models then came equipped with a new hood insulating pad. Engine heat and moisture would eventually damage these factory pads and make them pretty ugly.
In years past iPd offered their own aftermarket hood insulation kits for the 240, as shown below. These were adhesive backed foam inserts that had a foil lining for heat protection. These are no longer available
For those of you interested in making your own insulation pieces, I'll go over what I've done below.
I used foam sheets I bought from McMaster Carr.
Specific examples are shown below. 1/2 inch thick foam works well. Both examples above were cut so they tucked under the hood brace. Cutting foam can be done with scissors. None of the foams I have used had adhesive backing, but that's an option you can explore on your own if you like.
The WHITE HOOD shown above was done many years ago with OPEN CELL foam (first option below PN 8614K83). It will usually be found in a GRAY color, but it can be painted black with acrylic paint if needed. It helps at lot to make a template out of paper or cardboard first and make sure that fits. Then cut the foam. If you use very soft foam and it later begins to droop in the center, I suggest putting some contact adhesive behind it. The first OPEN CELL foam option below held up to engine heat for many years, but it will eventually begin to dry out and then deteriorate after probably more than 10 years. The flame-retardant option below might be better, but I didn't try it.
The ABOVE two items from McMaster Carr are decent choices if you decide to try OPEN CELL foam. If you choose the flame retardant foam, PN 86115K31, 3 feet (x 54 inches wide) will be enough to do one hood.
CLOSED CELL FOAM
The BLACK HOOD shown above was done more recently with CLOSED CELL foam, which will probably be a better choice for durability. Foams like this will usually be found in a BLACK or GRAY color, but the first one below was actually a DARK GRAY when it came. This foam can be painted black with acrylic paint if needed.
This option above (Ionomer Foam, PN 86205K93) is the one I used more recently on the black hood shown above. Even though it's called "SOFT", it turned out to be very rigid and it's a little tough to bend and force behind the hood bracing, but it can be done as seen in my photo. TWO 24 x 36 inch pieces will be needed to do one hood.
This second option above (Buna-N Foam) may be a better choice if you want it to be flame retardant.
For the installation to go easier, I recommend choosing the Extra Soft, PN 85175K59, or Ultra Soft, PN 85175K29. 3 feet (x 54 inches wide) will be enough to do one hood.
Other people have used insulating foam made specifically for car hoods or interiors, such as Fat Mat, Dynamat, etc. These will probably be more expensive. I have no experience using these on a hood.
|HEADLIGHT PROTECTION FILM
for your rare or expensive lenses, click below for my Headlight Page.
|240 Exhaust Mods
Click here for the 240 Exhaust Page
|Get Variable Interval Wipers for your 240
CLICK HERE for the 240 WIPERS PAGE
|Build your own custom 240 Spark Plug Cables
CLICK HERE OR CLICK THE IMAGE
|240 VIN Decoding Page
CLICK HERE OR CLICK THE IMAGE
|240 Power Mirror and Mirror Switch Page
CLICK HERE or CLICK AN IMAGE BELOW
|DIY Front End Toe Alignment
Building a Trammel Bar
|240 Fuse Panel Diagrams and Inner Workings
I've created a page all about 240 fuse panels. Lots of details there.
CLICK A PHOTO ABOVE TO SEE THIS PAGE: Or CLICK HERE.
|240 Dash Top Gauge Pod Project
Project page for my dash top 3-gauge pod: https://www.240turbo.com/dashgaugepod.html
|240 Gauge Cluster Mods
A customer sent me some pics of his modified instrument cluster, so I thought I would share.
|Dealing with 240 Smog Emission Compliance
Since I lived in California for most of my life, I have plenty of experience working to make 240s emission compliant. This can be a huge source of frustration and it can be very expensive if you have to resort to paying someone every two years to work on the car for you.
Don't give up. The below discussions threads are really good ones. It offers a lot of good experience from people who've ultimately been successful and the thread itself is a great success story.
And a great article on this subject (also highlighted in this thread):
|Improving 240 Gauge and Dash Lighting
CLICK THE IMAGE
240 Instrument Cluster Diagrams and Gauge Electrical Fixes
Here's a growing collection of 240 gauge info that can come in handy if you're doing your own work on your 240 gauges or instrument cluster.
Click an image or go HERE: https://www.240turbo.com/240gaugewiring.html
240 Rear Light Bulbs
|240 Fog Light or
Driving Light Installation
Cadillac 4-Note Horns in a 240
I did this recently in my 240.
Options and Experiments in the Installation of a
Primary Electric Cooling Fan for your 240
When in good working order, the original belt-driven clutch fan in your 240 can handle most cooling needs. But if you have been thinking that your 240 needs an electric primary cooling fan, here is a page I put together on my experiences with a number of electric fan conversions over the years, from small 14 inch GM fans to big Ford or Lincoln fans. Plus a variety of wiring diagrams are included for building your own relay fan control systems if you like.
Cooling Fan Controller Project
(for my LINCOLN MARK VIII fan)
In 2016 I got tired of failing high-tech fan controllers that would burn up after a year or two when trying to control my big Lincoln Mark VIII fan. They always failed in the worst places. So I decided to design and build my own fan controller with FOUR speeds using what I know. RELIABLE RELAYS. Works great! You can build one too if you like.
Click here: https://www.240turbo.com/fanharness.html
|AutoCoolGuy PWM Fan
(for my LINCOLN MARK VIII fan)
New addition for My 242 Turbo in 2018.
Click here: https://www.240turbo.com/ElectricCoolingFans.html#autocoolguy
Painting 240 Taillamps
I get questions about the taillights on my car occasionally. These lights originally began as ALL CLEAR lights like in the below photo. At the time, finding half-clear lights was not possible. They can be found on eBay now. I didn't want all-clear lights, so I painted the bottom lenses myself using the below Testers transparent red paint, 1605 Gloss Custom Red. This paint is easy to use and goes on pretty well. It takes several light coats to get to the shade of red I got. Let it dry between coats and keep adding paint lightly until you have the red you like. It will slowly darken with each coat. These lights have been on my car for well over 10 years and still look new. Part of this reason is the car is always garaged.
If you need to tint in AMBER, I have not tried any transparent amber paints yet, but I have heard of good results from the below Tamiya TS-73 Clear Orange for Plastics.
I have also read that you can get good results from a transparent STAINED GLASS paint. Kyrylon makes such paint in aerosol in ORANGE and RED. I have not used these yet.
Stepper Idle Air Control Project
In 2018 I began working on a stand-alone manually adjustable idle control valve for my car using a GM stepper IAC motor.
Click the above images or below link to see it.
240 Interior Renewal Project
THIS NEEDED TO BE SHARED.
This discussion thread below began in May 2018 and it's a goldmine for inspiration on making your old 240 interior look brand new again. It's a great resource for information on paints and interior parts too, so I had to share it here for those of you who haven't seen it.
240 Door Card Build Project
THIS NEEDED TO BE SHARED.
This discussion thread was shared in December 2018. If you're patient and handy, it shows a great tutorial for you to completely remake 240 door cards to replace the old, warped or rotten ones in your 240.
If you need to replace or create new plastic moisture barriers, lots of people use shower curtain plastic.
240 Exterior Paint Renewal Project
This discussion thread below began in 2015 and outlines a 245 owner who went the distance in restoring his newly acquired 245 exterior paint to look exceptionally nice. His efforts paid off. It's a great inspiration to 240 lovers.
Turbo Oil Drain Hose for Volvo Turbo Red Blocks
Yoshifab Catch Can (breather box) Installation
|Volvo Red Block OIL COOLER
This information may come in handy when working on oil cooler systems on red blocks. I compiled a new web page just for this info.
The factory oil cooler thermostat in my 240 Turbo oil filter plate seemed to have stopped working. My guess is it was stuck in the wide open position, since it was taking forever for the engine oil to come up to temperature. So I decided to add an IN-LINE oil cooler thermostat in the lines between the engine and the oil cooler.
You can find that info here: https://www.240turbo.com/oilcooler.html
Removing or Replacing 240 Door Top Black Vinyl TrimI gets lots of questions about doing this kind of work or where someone can buy these black vinyl trim pieces.
They have not been available for a lot of years from Volvo or any other source, but if you're persistent, good results are possible.
If you want new black vinyl for your 240, contact me. I can supply the new stripes you'll need.
CLICK HERE: https://www.prancingmoose.com/doorvinyl.html
Electric/Hydraulic or Electric Power Assist Steering
If you like having power steering, but for some reason the traditional hydraulic setup isn't quite right for your modified Volvo (or if you want to convert an older manual steering Volvo to power assist) here are some possible answers.
A number of years ago, Josh Sadler of Yoshifab converted his Volvo 242 to electric/hydraulic steering. Josh's system was fairly simple. It used the original Volvo power steering rack. He mounted an electric/hydraulic steering pump and reservoir from a Toyota MR2 in his trunk and had hydraulic hoses made to route all the way to the stock steering rack. The result worked pretty well.
Here's a discussion thread on his installation: https://turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135556
See his YouTube video below.
Or here's a video below about someone who used a VOLVO electric/hydraulic steering pump to feed the power steering. He didn't install it in a Volvo, but this pump/reservoir is from approximately 2004-2013 Volvo C30, C70, S40, V50 variants. The pump/reservoir is Volvo PN 36050678.
It's a great question. It certainly appears you CAN. Several racing hose makers offer DIY hose and ends.
Russell PowerFlex hose is advertised with a rating of 2500 PSI.
Earls power steering hose is rated at 3000 PSI.
And here's the next generation steering mod.
Steering Column EPAS.
Electric Power Assist Steering (EPAS)
Units from a Saturn Vue, Chevrolet Equinox or Pontiac Torrent and other modern cars. The EPAS is mounted in the steering column, so the level of tech is much higher.
This was an installation under the dash of a Volvo P1800 (pics below).
Here's a supplier of just such kits that you may be interested in seeing: http://www.epowersteering.com/index.html
VOLVO 240 Specific: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=334886
Identifying a Power Steering Rack in your 240
Classic Car Insurance for your Classic VolvoThis is a bit of an unusual subject for a mods page, but I know it will be helpful to some Volvo owners out there.
Classic Auto Air all new Air Conditioning InstallationI finally grew tired enough of my mediocre Volvo AC in my 242 to explore an extreme option. This is a complete new AC system installation from Classic Auto Air. I also spent the time installing Dynamat while the interior was out of the car. It was a LOT of work, but overall a good project.
I created a new web page all about the new AC conversion. CLICK HERE!
Dealing with a Cracked 240 Dash
Here are some VIDEOS:
#1 Unboxing and trying out.
Other threads to read:
Spacers - Wider Track
Rear Wheel/Tire FENDER CLEARANCE
for your 240
This pic above was the final result of my 242 after I completed the above inner fender trimming. There is zero rubbing, even when bottoming out the suspension.
For more info on how I installed these wheels using custom adapter (Volvo to BMW bolt pattern), go to https://www.240turbo.com/index.html#bmw5x108.
When I was shopping for wheels to replace the Eikers, I knew I would need to concentrate on something with more offset than the Eikers, since I would need the extra room to add an adapter behind each wheel. I eventually settled on wheels that were 7.5 inches wide with 35 mm POSITIVE offset.
The adapter maker I chose was http://www.motorsport-tech.com.
The minimum thickness they will make is 15 to 20 mm. I went with a 20 mm thick front adapter.
Now draw yourself some diagrams if it helps you visualize all this.
Here's a good Turbobricks discussion thread with related info: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=339645
Turbobricks Wheel Guide: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=72501&highlight=wheel+guide
HUB-CENTRIC versus LUG-CENTRIC
It's important to decide if you will be using a spacer or adapter that is either HUB-CENTRIC or LUG-CENTRIC.
Hub-Centric means that the center raised lip that fits into the wheel center is present and will keep the wheel centered before you lighten the lugs. It means that the weight of the car is supported by the hub.
Lug-Centric mean no center lip is present and the wheel must be centered using the lugs. It means that the weight of the car is supported by the lugs. There are many generic spacers on line that are Lug-Centric.
Here's a TB discussion for you: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=349054.
Steering Wheel Hub for the 240
Installing a Momo (or similar type) steering wheel in your 240 can really improve your driving experience. It gives you lots of options for choosing a stylish or sporty steering wheel in a variety of sizes.
You probably already know all this and luckily for you, that's NOT what this article is about.
V Belt Sizes
Information on factory 240 accessory V belt sizes used to be easier to find, but it seems to have mostly disappeared from many useful sites.
I put this info together many years ago for my own 240 uses. I thought I would share it here.
Here's a PDF printable version of the below table: https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/240_V-Belts.pdf
240 Headlight Switch Plug Problems
MORE VOLVO BULB REFERENCES
Matthews Volvo Site Bulb Guide: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=61483
Other 240 interior and exterior bulb info in this Turbobricks thread: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=283706
iPd Bulb Reference: https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10096/what-light-bulbs-fit-my-volvo
Volvo has owner's manuals going back many years (bulb info is in "Specifications"): https://www.volvocars.com/us/own/owner-info/owners-manuals
Gentex Rear View Mirror UpgradeAdding a more modern mirror for your 240 on the CHEAP.
with Auto Dimming, Compass and Outside Temperature.
|Guide for Crimping
I've put together a page with instructions for crimping and assembling typical open barrel or EFI crimp terminals and connector housings.
|Hydraulic Clutch Info
Page for your 240
I have a pretty heavy clutch in my 240. Back in 2011 I got tired of stretching, adjusting, stretching and then snapping clutch cables, so I installed a hydraulic setup for the clutch. I recently updated the master cylinder from the Volvo unit to an aftermarket one and created a web page to help keep track of the parts and information for others to see.
Here's the new page below:
|Mounting Driving Lights
on your 240 without Drilling your Bumper!
|Making a Custom Cup
Holder for your 240
We all know our beloved 240s never came with cup holders. There have been a number of cup holder projects in the internet over the years. When I saw this one in the Turbobricks forum, I felt it really needed to be shown. The thoughtful design allows it to be securely anchored over the e-brake handle, using the e-brake handle button to help pin the front against the shifter hump. It's a nice design feature to keep in mind when you build (or adapt) such a thing for your car.
See more photos and dimensions here: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=328054
And new for 2021, here's something new and ingenious for an early 240 (1975-1980).
They say they are also working on something for later 240s.
G80 Locking Differential (from a 700/900) into
Common Corroded Ground Points (and power
connections) In Your 240
I hear about strange intermittent electrical problems from frustrated 240 owners quite often. These problems occur so often because of a few good reasons . . . .
your 240 Taillights (Tail Lamps)
240 WIRING DIAGRAM EXAMPLES BELOW
0.75 mm wire is close to AWG 18-20.
COLORS: BL = Blue; BN = Brown; GN = Green; GR = Gray; R = Red; SB = Black; W = White; Y = Yellow.
|Quick Fix to get your
240 Taillight Bulbs to Work Again (using aluminum
If you have the above circuit board issues and don't have the time or patience to hard wire your bulbs (above), here's a quick fix. Thank you to Michael Yount for offering this solution.
Simply cut some small pieces of aluminum foil and place them on your circuit boards as shown in the photos. Use some hobby tacky glue to keep them in place. They will help bridge the bulb holder circuit if you have worn out circuit boards.
Should you change the ride height of your 240? How?
240 SUSPENSION PAGE
Badass HEADLIGHT RELAY HARNESS
This is a good project for anyone with any older Volvo, especially if you have or want to to upgrade to brighter bulbs or headlights.
Find this info in my Headlight Relay Page: https://www.240turbo.com/headlightrelay.html#relayharness
the Mysteries of the 240 Headlight Step Relay
And Test Procedure.
This relay is rather special in that it has a LATCHING function. A latching function is where you can click and release a momentary button or switch (such as a high/low beam stalk) and the relay will LATCH (or lock) in the ON or OFF position until the switch or stalk is clicked again. For this Volvo relay, one click latches it "ON" and another click latches it "OFF." I have created the diagram PDF for anyone who wants to better understand how these relays work.
I have also added a test procedure on page 2 if you think you might have a broken one.
|How to Substitute
to ELIMINATE your Volvo 240 Headlight Step Relay
Understanding and Dealing with a Volvo Bulb Failure Sensor
|THE MOST SIMPLE SOLUTION
Bypassing a Volvo Bulb Failure Sensor
Making some simple BYPASS LEADS for a Quick and Easy Fix.
If you don't feel like going to the trouble of modifying a Bulb Failure Sensor internally, there is a MUCH SIMPLER way to bypass these circuits without using a sensor. And I don't mean to suggest cutting off the 15-pin plug and splicing wires together (which of course you can do if you like). A better method, with no barbaric butchery, is to assemble some simple crimp terminals with a few short pieces of wire. Then unplug your sensor and insert the new leads into the female 15-pin connector, respective of the bypass diagrams shown below As it turns out, this connector uses fairly common 3.5 mm bullet terminals. So all you need are some male bullet terminals and some wire and some heat-shrink tubing for insulation. Coincidentally, these 3.5 mm male terminals are available cheap on-line or also in my Harness Parts Page HERE.
In the photo above, you can see how these bypass bullet terminals and wires will look. The configuration is different for different sensors, so pay attention to the diagrams. If your car uses a sensor not shown above, it will be a simple thing to open it up to see what pins are bridged.
Tamara from Albuquerque sent the above photos for her bypass project:
"I just accomplished the bypass on the failed bulb relay on my 240. Worked like a charm! Thank you so much for all of your pains-taking work in putting together all of the detailed and supremely helpful information on your website. It is so appreciated. I found it easier to deal with by removing the instrument cluster. That way I could get both hands on the relay and sit upright to put the bypass pieces in. I also had to lever the relay and connector apart with a screwdriver. I had fought with it for awhile to no avail then I realized some leverage was called for. It made a little click and came apart easily. That's when I discovered it had a barb holding it together. It's great to have brake lights again!"
Better and Faster Wipers
CLICK HERE FOR THE 240 WIPERS PAGE
|Understanding Relay Functions and Uses
I'm putting this here because having an understanding of simple relay functions can help any DIY Volvo mechanic in so many places for your car projects. Many of the suggestions in this 240 modification page rely on relays. Not too many years ago my relay knowledge was limited to installing a pair of fogs lights. The internet has helped a lot in this area and most of you can now be really successful with relays.
This Relay Guide is not Volvo specific, but it's a great resource for expanding your general auto relay knowlege and offers some interesting diagrams.
https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/RelayGuide.pdf (3.3mb PDF)
Here are some other pages with more relay explanations and configurations:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html <<< And this is the best site I know for improving your auto lighting with added relays.
If you know of any other useful resources that would be a good fit here, please email me.
|3-FLASH "Komfort Blinker" UPGRADE for your Volvo.
240 M46 Overdrive Wire Harness Design, Construction, Mods
240 Auto Transmission Overdrive Wire Harness Design and Construction
Since I did the above M46 diagrams I thought it would be good to illustrate how the 240 auto trans ORANGE and WHITE overdrive relays work. There is almost no difference in the relay circuits between these two relays. They are essentially interchangeable, EXCEPT that the OD light on the dash seems to come on opposite of when it's supposed to when the other relay is installed.
|Upgrade the In-Tank Fuel Pump in your 240
with a Larger 740 Turbo Pump
The 740 Turbo pump I used for this conversion, which was used in 1986 and later 700 and 900 Turbo models (and 960), is PN 3517845.
CLICK HERE TO FIND THIS PAGE
|Adding a Large Tachometer to your Volvo 240
in place of the Large Clock
Fuel Line Repairs
Volvo used semi-rigid plastic fuel lines on all 200, 700 and 900 series. Maybe more models, but I'll deal mainly with cars made in the 1980s and 1990s for this article below.
Special thanks goes to Roger Brown of Pueblo, Colorado for the photos and details from his own fuel line repair. The photos below are of 740 fuel lines, but the principle is the same for 240s.
You'll find that the plastic hoses used in these cars are fitted to fairly standard brass or steel barbed nipples. Volvo fitted them when the hose or nipple or both are heated to a point the plastic becomes more flexible. Removing these hoses from existing nipples can be difficult and you may find that cutting or slitting them at the barb is the best treatment.
HERE'S AN VIDEO THAT MAY HELP.
Here's a video of the general idea.
Small 52 mm VDO/Volvo Tachometer to your 240
|Fixing Bad 240 Driver Door Lock
I have seen a fair number of emails like this one:
"I own a 1993 Volvo 240 Sedan. It has about 100,000 on it and runs beautifully. The only problem is that the central locking system seems to be malfunctioning. It makes a fast clicking sound when driving and sometimes goes up and down when one tries to unlock the other doors from the drivers side. In the past two days the battery died due to something being left on. I pulled the #8 fuse (courtesy lights, clock, trunk light, glove box light, central lock system, power antenna, radio) and today the battery was fine."
This is an extremely common problem that literally affects ALL YEAR 240s equipped with CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING.
How do I know this problem is common in all year 240s? Because when I discovered this years ago i spent time at junkyards pulling off door panels on a lot of 240s up to the 1993 model year. They are all the same. All had BAD WIRES!
The problem is old, flaking wire insulation inside the driver door. Specifically, the wires going to the key lock switch ("F" in the diagram shown at left) and also the door lock plunger switch ("A" in the diagram shown at left). It should be pretty obvious once you pull off your door panel and look closely at these wires. The insulation on these wires will crumble and fall off, allowing the wires to short. This causes the rapid lock-unlock to occur randomly. And when the car is parked, the shorted wires may allow the locks be stuck in UP or DOWN mode, which can drain your battery in a few hours. The solution is to cover the bad wires with heat-shrink tubing, liquid electrical tape, etc., or cut them out and crimp or solder in new wires. You will probably only have to do this to about 8 inches of wires, but keep an eye out for more than that.
Here are a couple good threads with more photos:
Dealing with the Temperature Compensation Board in your 1986-93 240
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