Volvo 240 Mods
& Fixes Just a few cool mods to keep you sane and properly entertained. |
![]() |
UPDATED: August 19, 2023 CONTACT |
D
O M A I N S![]() ![]() ![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
I like 240s a lot and there's
nothing I like better than modifying them for
performance, handling, comfort, etc. In this page I have outlined some cool mods I have done to my 240s and others that have been provided by other 240 enthusiasts. Your comments are welcome: CONTACT |
New page for BRUSHLESS cooling fans![]() |
To use for idle hoses, power steering returns, coolant, etc. ![]() If you have a 240 (or other car) with curved or molded rubber hoses under the hood and you cannot find replacements, here's a DIY method for molding rubber hoses to your own custom shape. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFDlGPLcK0o |
in 2022 I completed the installation of power vent window actuators for my 242 rear vent windows. You can see that project at: https://www.240turbo.com/ventwindow.html ![]() |
In addition to the above vent window project, I also made new C-pillar panels. That page can be for at: https://www.240turbo.com/242cpillar.html |
Installing a new timing belt on your B21, B23 or B230
is not an ultra-challenging task, but if you're not experienced, it's
good to have some useful reference info to keep from making mistakes. The last thing you need is WRONG INFO (shown below), which I have seen in a number of technical manuals and in many online images. The LEFT image below is WRONG. So if you see it wrong like that in a manual or on-line page, don't use it! ![]() Here are some more images below you might find useful. B21 or B23 NOTE: If you need the size of the big crankshaft bolt, it's M14-2.0 x 90 mm long, grade 10.9. 22 mm socket head. PN 970933. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() B230 ![]() ![]() ![]() And if you need a good video on replacing your timing belt, iPd made one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eIFWUbSZTw This video is specific to the later 240 with B230F. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APXKlGO1xeE |
![]() If you have owned a Volvo that uses BANJO FITTINGS, you might have shared my frustration with making them seal well after changing them. The factory washers, often called crush washers, where made from brass and were designed to be used one time only. Volvo used these on oil lines, power steering racks, on fuel systems and of course on the oil pan drain plug. Being a cheap 240 owner, I would often try re-using these washers. Sometimes this resulted in leakage. Sometimes flat-sanding a washer would renew the surface, but even a brand new crush washer can leak. This often results in the temptation to over-tighten a fitting, which of course can have a bad result all by itself. Over the years I have also tried softer aluminum crush washers. This seemed to work better in some circumstances. The 240 oil pan drain plug uses a brass crush washer too. Do YOU put a brand new one when YOU change your oil??? I don't. I can't count the number of times I've heard about someone over-tightening that drain plug, resulting in damaged or stripped threads. Then a few years ago I discovered METAL-BONDED SEALING WASHERS. Bonded seal washers have a two-part construction consisting of a structural metal ring and an interference fit rubber seal. When compressed, they create an ultra-tight high-pressure seal. These are commonly installed in high-pressure hydraulic applications and can certainly be used in static sealing locations, such as drain plugs. For those of you who don't want "rubber" on your high-pressure hose seals, you can find these with Nitrile rubber, also known as NBR or Buna-N. Here are some sources for those below. https://www.mcmaster.com/metric-high-pressure-rated-metal-bonded-sealing-washers/ https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/9500-bonded-seal-buna.html I bought this set of metal-bonded sealing washers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKVYWD4/ ![]() ![]() I now use one of these bonded seal washers on my oil drain plug. Perfect seal every time. |
If you need some diagram info for a 240 window switch, see the images below. 242 diagram and 244 diagram. ![]() ![]() |
I had to share this video I found. If you're cleaning an old engine, head, or pistons yourself, here's a great video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kj7C9iUXuRs |
|
Maybe you don't care about 240 hood insulation, but if you do, I've begun compiling some info here just for you. Most 240s did not have any hood insulation. To my knowledge, the first 200 series with factory hood insulation pads were the 260 series (264 and 262C) and diesel equipped 240s. The first 240 non-diesel to come with the insulation pad was the 240 Turbo (1981 to 1985). After 1986 the 240 hood became NON-insulated once again, until the final year of production in 1993. The 1993 models then came equipped with a new hood insulating pad. Engine heat and moisture would eventually damage these factory pads and make them pretty ugly. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() In years past iPd offered their own aftermarket hood insulation kits for the 240, as shown below. These were adhesive backed foam inserts that had a foil lining for heat protection. These are no longer available ![]() ![]() DIY PROJECTS: For those of you interested in making your own insulation pieces, I'll go over what I've done below. ![]() ![]() I used foam sheets I bought from McMaster Carr. Specific examples are shown below. 1/2 inch thick foam works well. Both examples above were cut so they tucked under the hood brace. Cutting foam can be done with scissors. None of the foams I have used had adhesive backing, but that's an option you can explore on your own if you like. The WHITE HOOD shown above was done many years ago with OPEN CELL foam (first option below PN 8614K83). It will usually be found in a GRAY color, but it can be painted black with acrylic paint if needed. It helps at lot to make a template out of paper or cardboard first and make sure that fits. Then cut the foam. If you use very soft foam and it later begins to droop in the center, I suggest putting some contact adhesive behind it. The first OPEN CELL foam option below held up to engine heat for many years, but it will eventually begin to dry out and then deteriorate after probably more than 10 years. The flame-retardant option below might be better, but I didn't try it. ![]() The ABOVE two items from McMaster Carr are decent choices if you decide to try OPEN CELL foam. If you choose the flame retardant foam, PN 86115K31, 3 feet (x 54 inches wide) will be enough to do one hood. CLOSED CELL FOAM The BLACK HOOD shown above was done more recently with CLOSED CELL foam, which will probably be a better choice for durability. Foams like this will usually be found in a BLACK or GRAY color, but the first one below was actually a DARK GRAY when it came. This foam can be painted black with acrylic paint if needed. ![]() This option above (Ionomer Foam, PN 86205K93) is the one I used more recently on the black hood shown above. Even though it's called "SOFT", it turned out to be very rigid and it's a little tough to bend and force behind the hood bracing, but it can be done as seen in my photo. TWO 24 x 36 inch pieces will be needed to do one hood. ![]() This second option above (Buna-N Foam) may be a better choice if you want it to be flame retardant. For the installation to go easier, I recommend choosing the Extra Soft, PN 85175K59, or Ultra Soft, PN 85175K29. 3 feet (x 54 inches wide) will be enough to do one hood. Other people have used insulating foam made specifically for car hoods or interiors, such as Fat Mat, Dynamat, etc. These will probably be more expensive. I have no experience using these on a hood. |
for your rare or expensive lenses, click below for my Headlight Page. https://www.240turbo.com/headlight.html#laminx ![]() |
Click here for the 240 Exhaust Page![]() |
![]() CLICK HERE for the 240 WIPERS PAGE |
CLICK HERE OR CLICK THE IMAGE![]() |
CLICK HERE OR CLICK THE IMAGE![]() |
CLICK HERE or CLICK AN IMAGE BELOW![]() ![]() |
Building a Trammel Bar![]() |
![]() I've created a page all about 240 fuse panels. Lots of details there. https://www.240turbo.com/fusepanel240.html |
CLICK A PHOTO ABOVE TO SEE THIS PAGE: Or CLICK HERE. |
Project page for my dash top 3-gauge pod: https://www.24turbo.com/dashgaugepod.html |
A customer sent me some pics of his modified instrument cluster, so I thought I would share.
https://www.prancingmoose.com/WhiteFaceGaugesStyle5.html#clustermod ![]() |
![]() Don't give up. The below discussions threads are really good ones. It offers a lot of good experience from people who've ultimately been successful and the thread itself is a great success story. https://www.turbobricks.com/366734 https://forums.turbobricks.com/349573 And a great article on this subject (also highlighted in this thread): http://www.dailyturismo.com/2013/09/dtpc-smog-test-making-it-legal.html |
CLICK THE IMAGE![]() |
Here's a growing collection of 240 gauge info that can come in handy if you're
doing your own work on your 240 gauges or instrument cluster.
Click an image or go HERE: https://www.240turbo.com/240gaugewiring.html |
|
|
I did this on my 240.
|
When in good working
order, the original
belt-driven clutch fan in your 240 can handle most
cooling needs. But if you have been
thinking that your 240 needs an electric primary
cooling fan, here is a page I put together on my
experiences with a number of electric fan
conversions over MANY years, from 1998 to present with small GM
fans, Volvo fans and big Ford or Lincoln fans. Plus I have a
variety of wiring diagrams for building
your own relay fan control systems if you like.
CLICK HERE ![]() |
(using a LINCOLN MARK VIII fan) In 2016 I got tired of failing "high-tech" fan controllers that would burn up after a year or two. They could not handle a heavy load when trying to control a big Lincoln Mark VIII fan. They always failed in the worst places. So I decided to design and build my own fan controller with FOUR speeds using my knowledge of RELIABLE heavy duty RELAYS. It worked great! The full plans are here. Click here: https://www.240turbo.com/fanharness.html ![]() |
(for my LINCOLN MARK VIII fan) New addition for My 242 Turbo in 2018. Click here: https://www.240turbo.com/ElectricCoolingFans.html#autocoolguy ![]() |
![]() I get questions about the taillights on my car occasionally. These lights originally began as ALL CLEAR lights like in the below photo. At the time, finding half-clear lights was not possible. They can be found on eBay now. I didn't want all-clear lights, so I painted the bottom lenses myself using the below Testers transparent red paint, 1605 Gloss Custom Red. This paint is easy to use and goes on pretty well. It takes several light coats to get to the shade of red I got. Let it dry between coats and keep adding paint lightly until you have the red you like. It will slowly darken with each coat. These lights have been on my car for well over 10 years and still look new. Part of this reason is the car is always garaged. ![]() ![]() If you need to tint in AMBER, I have not tried any transparent amber paints yet, but I have heard of good results from the below Tamiya TS-73 Clear Orange for Plastics. ![]() I have also read that you can get good results from a transparent STAINED GLASS paint. Kyrylon makes such paint in aerosol in ORANGE and RED. I have not used these yet.
|
![]() ![]() In 2018 I began working on a stand-alone manually adjustable idle control valve for my car using a GM stepper IAC motor. Click the above images or below link to see it. https://www.240turbo.com/idleaircontrol.html
|
![]() THIS NEEDED TO BE SHARED. This discussion thread below began in May 2018 and it's a goldmine for inspiration on making your old 240 interior look brand new again. It's a great resource for information on paints and interior parts too, so I had to share it here for those of you who haven't seen it. https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=342177
|
![]() THIS NEEDED TO BE SHARED. This 240 Door Card Build thread was shared in December 2018. If you're patient and handy, it shows some great ideas for you to completely remake new 240 door cards to replace the old, warped or rotten ones in your 240. https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=346785 UPDATE 2023: The above thread now has a lot of broken images. Luckily I saved a PDF of the original thread with all images, which should help if you're doing a project like this. https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/242doorcardbuildlo.pdf If you need to replace or create new plastic moisture barriers, lots of people have suggested using shower curtain plastic. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=364707
|
![]() ![]() This discussion thread below began in 2015 and outlines a 245 owner who went the distance in restoring his newly acquired 245 exterior paint to look exceptionally nice. His efforts paid off. It's a great inspiration to 240 lovers. https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=305369
|
|
|
This information may come in handy when
working on oil cooler systems on red blocks. I compiled a new web page just for this info. https://www.240turbo.com/oilcooler.html ![]() |
The factory oil cooler thermostat in my
240 Turbo oil filter plate seemed to have stopped
working. My guess is it was stuck in the wide
open position, since it was taking forever for the
engine oil to come up to temperature. So I
decided to add an IN-LINE oil cooler thermostat in the
lines between the engine and the oil cooler. You can find that info here: https://www.240turbo.com/oilcooler.html ![]() |
I gets lots of questions about doing this kind of work
or where someone can buy these black vinyl trim
pieces. They have not been available for a lot of years from Volvo or any other source, but if you're persistent, good results are possible. If you want new black vinyl for your 240, contact me. I can supply the new stripes you'll need. CLICK HERE: https://www.prancingmoose.com/doorvinyl.html
|
Electric/Hydraulic or Electric Power Assist Steering
If you like
having power steering, but for some reason the
traditional hydraulic setup isn't quite right
for your modified Volvo (or if you want to
convert an older manual steering Volvo to
power assist) here are some possible answers.
A number of years ago, Josh Sadler of Yoshifab converted his Volvo 242 to electric/hydraulic steering. Josh's system was fairly simple. It used the original Volvo power steering rack. He mounted an electric/hydraulic steering pump and reservoir from a Toyota MR2 in his trunk and had hydraulic hoses made to route all the way to the stock steering rack. The result worked pretty well. Here's a discussion thread on his installation: https://turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135556 See his YouTube video below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iItsdzTMp9I Or here's a video below about someone who used a VOLVO electric/hydraulic steering pump to feed the power steering. He didn't install it in a Volvo, but this pump/reservoir is from approximately 2004-2013 Volvo C30, C70, S40, V50 variants. The pump/reservoir is Volvo PN 36050678.
It's a great question. It certainly appears you CAN. Several racing hose makers offer DIY hose and ends. Russell PowerFlex hose is advertised with a rating of 2500 PSI. https://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russell-PowerFlex Earls power steering hose is rated at 3000 PSI. https://www.holley.com/brands/earls/products/plumbing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2wXKfOmvF0 And here's the next generation steering mod. Steering Column EPAS. Electric Power Assist Steering (EPAS) Units from a Saturn Vue, Chevrolet Equinox or Pontiac Torrent and other modern cars. The EPAS is mounted in the steering column, so the level of tech is much higher. This was an installation under the dash of a Volvo P1800 (pics below).
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=341174 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=361224 Here's a supplier of just such kits that you may be interested in seeing: http://www.epowersteering.com/index.html More info: VOLVO 240 Specific: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=334886 https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/ https://www.hotrod.com/articles/150-electric-power-steering-junkyard-prius-delivers/ https://forums.tbforums.com/showpost.php?p=4802174&postcount=22 http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/corsa-c-electric-power-steering-epas/ https://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/2321889-$35-electric-power-steering-fail-safe-no-ebay-module-no-caster-issues.html |
Identifying a Power Steering Rack in your
240
|
Classic Auto Air all new Air Conditioning
Installation
I finally grew tired
enough of my mediocre Volvo AC in my 242 to explore an
extreme
option. This is a complete new AC system installation from
Classic Auto Air. I also spent the time
installing Dynamat
while the interior was out of the car. It was a
LOT of work, but overall a good project. I created a new web page all about the new AC conversion. CLICK HERE!
|
Dealing with a Cracked 240 Dash
Here are some VIDEOS:
#1 Unboxing and trying out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HO1LqFtFig #2 Installation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksmMu0wwhuY&t=2s
Other threads to read:
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=337660 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=356205 |
Installing
Rear
Wheel
Spacers - Wider Track
|
Wider
Rear Wheel/Tire FENDER CLEARANCE for your 240
![]() This pic above was the final result of my 242 after I completed the above inner fender trimming. There is zero rubbing, even when bottoming out the suspension. For more info on how I installed these wheels using custom adapter (Volvo to BMW bolt pattern), go to https://www.240turbo.com/index.html#bmw5x108. |
When I was shopping
for wheels to replace the Eikers, I knew I would
need to concentrate on something with more offset than the
Eikers, since I would need the extra room
to add an
adapter behind each wheel. I
eventually settled on wheels that were 7.5 inches wide with
35 mm POSITIVE offset.
The adapter maker I
chose was http://www.motorsport-tech.com.
The minimum thickness they will make is 15 to 20 mm. I went with a 20 mm thick front adapter. Now draw yourself some
diagrams if it helps you visualize all
this.
Here's a good Turbobricks discussion thread with related info: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=339645 Turbobricks Wheel Guide: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=72501&highlight=wheel+guide
HUB-CENTRIC versus LUG-CENTRIC It's important to decide if you will be using a spacer or adapter that is either HUB-CENTRIC or LUG-CENTRIC. Hub-Centric means that the center raised lip that fits into the wheel center is present and will keep the wheel centered before you lighten the lugs. It means that the weight of the car is supported by the hub. Lug-Centric mean no center lip is present and the wheel must be centered using the lugs. It means that the weight of the car is supported by the lugs. There are many generic spacers on line that are Lug-Centric. Here's a TB discussion for you: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=349054. ![]() |
Momo
Steering Wheel Hub for the 240 Installing a Momo
(or similar type) steering wheel in your 240 can
really improve your driving experience. It
gives you lots of options for choosing a stylish
or sporty steering wheel in a variety of
sizes.
You probably already know all this and luckily for you, that's NOT what this article is about.
|
240
V Belt Sizes![]() Information on factory 240 accessory V belt sizes used to be easier to find, but it seems to have mostly disappeared from many useful sites. I put this info together many years ago for my own 240 uses. I thought I would share it here. Here's a PDF printable version of the below table: https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/240_V-Belts.pdf
|
1975-85
240 Headlight Switch Plug Problems
|
MORE VOLVO BULB REFERENCES Matthews Volvo Site Bulb Guide: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=61483 Other 240 interior and exterior bulb info in this Turbobricks thread: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=283706 iPd Bulb Reference: https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/10096/what-light-bulbs-fit-my-volvo Volvo has owner's manuals going back many years (bulb info is in "Specifications"): https://www.volvocars.com/us/own/owner-info/owners-manuals |
Gentex Rear View Mirror Upgrade
Adding a more modern mirror for
your 240 on the CHEAP.with Auto Dimming, Compass and Outside Temperature.
|
Guide for Crimping
Terminals I've put together a page with instructions
for crimping and assembling typical open barrel or
EFI crimp terminals and connector housings.
|
Hydraulic Clutch Info
Page for your 240 I have a pretty heavy clutch in my 240. Back in 2011 I got tired of stretching, adjusting, stretching and then snapping clutch cables, so I installed a hydraulic setup for the clutch. I recently updated the master cylinder from the Volvo unit to an aftermarket one and created a web page to help keep track of the parts and information for others to see. Here's the new page below: https://www.240turbo.com/hydraulicclutch.html ![]() |
Mounting Driving Lights
on your 240 without Drilling your Bumper!
|
Making a Custom Cup
Holder for your 240![]() We all know our beloved 240s never came with cup holders. There have been a number of cup holder projects in the internet over the years. When I saw this one in the Turbobricks forum, I felt it really needed to be shown. The thoughtful design allows it to be securely anchored over the e-brake handle, using the e-brake handle button to help pin the front against the shifter hump. It's a nice design feature to keep in mind when you build (or adapt) such a thing for your car. See more photos and dimensions here: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=328054 And new for 2021, here's something new and ingenious for an early 240 (1975-1980). They say they are also working on something for later 240s.
|
Installing a
G80 Locking Differential (from a 700/900) into
your 240
|
Fixing
Common Corroded Ground Points (and power
connections) In Your 240 I hear about strange intermittent electrical problems from frustrated 240 owners quite often. These problems occur so often because of a few good reasons . . . .
|
Hardwiring
your 240 Taillights (Tail Lamps)
HELPFUL ARTICLES:
http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/tail_light_color_code_v0.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFouOkHW8ho https://brickwalla.wordpress.com/2011/11/16/hard-wiring-my-tails https://www.turbobricks.net/forums/hardwiring240taillights 240 WIRING DIAGRAM EXAMPLES BELOW 0.75 mm wire is close to AWG 18-20. COLORS: BL = Blue; BN = Brown; GN = Green; GR = Gray; R = Red; SB = Black; W = White; Y = Yellow. 1979-84 240 ![]() 1985-93 240 ![]()
|
Quick Fix to get your
240 Taillight Bulbs to Work Again (using aluminum
foil). If you have the above circuit board issues and don't have the time or patience to hard wire your bulbs (above), here's a quick fix. Thank you to Michael Yount for offering this solution. Simply cut some small pieces of aluminum foil and place them on your circuit boards as shown in the photos. Use some hobby tacky glue to keep them in place. They will help bridge the bulb holder circuit if you have worn out circuit boards. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Should
you change the ride height of your 240? How? 240 SUSPENSION PAGE Click: https://www.240turbo.com/suspension.html |
|
Build a
Badass HEADLIGHT RELAY HARNESS This is a good project for anyone with any older Volvo, especially if you have or want to to upgrade to brighter bulbs or headlights. Find this info in my Headlight Relay Page: https://www.240turbo.com/headlightrelay.html#relayharness ![]() |
Unlocking
the Mysteries of the 240 Headlight Step Relay And Test Procedure. This relay is rather special in that it has a LATCHING function. A latching function is where you can click and release a momentary button or switch (such as a high/low beam stalk) and the relay will LATCH (or lock) in the ON or OFF position until the switch or stalk is clicked again. For this Volvo relay, one click latches it "ON" and another click latches it "OFF." I have created the diagram PDF for anyone who wants to better understand how these relays work. I have also added a test procedure on page 2 if you think you might have a broken one. https://www.240turbo.com/headlightrelay.html ![]() |
How to Substitute
Available Relays to ELIMINATE your Volvo 240 Headlight Step Relay
|
|
Understanding
and
Dealing
with a Volvo Bulb Failure Sensor
|
|
THE MOST SIMPLE SOLUTION Bypassing a Volvo Bulb Failure Sensor
Making some simple BYPASS LEADS for a Quick and Easy Fix. If you don't feel like going to the trouble of modifying a Bulb Failure Sensor internally, there is a MUCH SIMPLER way to bypass these circuits without using a sensor. And I don't mean to suggest cutting off the 15-pin plug and splicing wires together (which of course you can do if you like). A better method, with no barbaric butchery, is to assemble some simple crimp terminals with a few short pieces of wire. Then unplug your sensor and insert the new leads into the female 15-pin connector, respective of the bypass diagrams shown below As it turns out, this connector uses fairly common 3.5 mm bullet terminals. So all you need are some male bullet terminals and some wire and some heat-shrink tubing for insulation. Coincidentally, these 3.5 mm male terminals are available cheap on-line or also in my Harness Parts Page HERE. ![]() ![]() ![]() In the photo above, you can see how these bypass bullet terminals and wires will look. The configuration is different for different sensors, so pay attention to the diagrams. If your car uses a sensor not shown above, it will be a simple thing to open it up to see what pins are bridged. ![]() ![]() Tamara from Albuquerque sent the above photos for her bypass project: "I just accomplished the bypass on the failed bulb relay on my 240. Worked like a charm! Thank you so much for all of your pains-taking work in putting together all of the detailed and supremely helpful information on your website. It is so appreciated. I found it easier to deal with by removing the instrument cluster. That way I could get both hands on the relay and sit upright to put the bypass pieces in. I also had to lever the relay and connector apart with a screwdriver. I had fought with it for awhile to no avail then I realized some leverage was called for. It made a little click and came apart easily. That's when I discovered it had a barb holding it together. It's great to have brake lights again!" |
|
Understanding Relay Functions and Uses![]() This Relay Guide is not Volvo specific, but it's a great resource for expanding your general auto relay knowlege and offers some interesting diagrams. https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/RelayGuide.pdf (3.3mb PDF) Here are some other pages with more relay explanations and configurations: http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html <<< And this is the best site I know for improving your auto lighting with added relays. If you know of any other useful resources that would be a good fit here, please email me. |
3-FLASH "Komfort Blinker" UPGRADE for your Volvo.
|
240 M46 Overdrive Wire Harness Design,
Construction, Mods
|
240 Auto Transmission Overdrive Wire
Harness Design and Construction
![]() |
|
Upgrade the In-Tank Fuel Pump in your 240
with a Larger 740 Turbo Pump The 740 Turbo pump I used for
this conversion, which was used in 1986 and later 700 and 900 Turbo models (and 960), is PN
3517845.
CLICK HERE TO FIND THIS PAGE ![]() |
Adding a Large Tachometer to your Volvo 240
in place of the Large Clock |
Plastic
Fuel Line Repairs![]() Volvo used semi-rigid plastic fuel lines on all 200, 700 and 900 series. Maybe more models, but I'll deal mainly with cars made in the 1980s and 1990s for this article below. Special thanks goes to Roger Brown of Pueblo, Colorado for the photos and details from his own fuel line repair. The photos below are of 740 fuel lines, but the principle is the same for 240s. You'll find that the plastic hoses used in these cars are fitted to fairly standard brass or steel barbed nipples. Volvo fitted them when the hose or nipple or both are heated to a point the plastic becomes more flexible. Removing these hoses from existing nipples can be difficult and you may find that cutting or slitting them at the barb is the best treatment. HERE'S AN VIDEO THAT MAY HELP. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xK0m4jvC84
|
Adding a
Small 52 mm VDO/Volvo Tachometer to your 240 |
Fixing Bad 240 Driver Door Lock
Switch Wires I have seen a fair number of emails like this one: "I own a 1993 Volvo 240 Sedan. It has about 100,000 on it and runs beautifully. The only problem is that the central locking system seems to be malfunctioning. It makes a fast clicking sound when driving and sometimes goes up and down when one tries to unlock the other doors from the drivers side. In the past two days the battery died due to something being left on. I pulled the #8 fuse (courtesy lights, clock, trunk light, glove box light, central lock system, power antenna, radio) and today the battery was fine." This is an extremely common problem that literally affects ALL YEAR 240s equipped with CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING. How do I know this problem is common in all year 240s? Because when I discovered this years ago i spent time at junkyards pulling off door panels on a lot of 240s up to the 1993 model year. They are all the same. All had BAD WIRES! ![]() ![]()
The problem is old, flaking wire insulation inside the
driver door. Specifically, the wires going to the key lock switch ("F"
in the diagram shown at left) and also the door lock plunger switch
("A" in the diagram shown at left). It should be
pretty obvious once you pull off your door panel and
look closely at these wires. The insulation on these
wires will crumble and fall off, allowing the wires to
short. This causes the rapid lock-unlock to occur
randomly. And when the car is parked, the shorted wires
may allow the locks be stuck in UP or DOWN mode, which can drain your
battery in a few hours. The solution is
to cover the bad wires with heat-shrink tubing, liquid
electrical tape, etc., or cut them out and crimp or solder in new
wires. You will probably only have to do this to
about 8 inches of wires, but keep an eye out for
more than that.
Here are a couple good threads with more photos: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=323301 https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=322700 |
Dealing
with the Temperature Compensation Board in
your 1986-93 240
|
|
davebarton.com |
prancingmoose.com |
240turbo.com |
Special Emblems |
Prancing
Moose Stickers |
Volvo
Stickers |
Body/Chassis/Engine
Labels |
New Items |
Other Car Brand
Stickers |
Steering
Wheel Labels |
Center Cap Labels/Overlays |
Cool Volvo
Products |
Grill Labels/Overlays |
Volvo Wire
Harnesses |
Conversion Harnesses |
Harness
Parts/Connectors |
Volvo Relays |
Coil Repair
Harnesses |
240 Window
Scrapers |
740/940
Window Scrapers |
Adjustable Voltage
Regulators |
Horn Buttons |
240 Odometer
Repair |
740 Odometer
Repair |
Volvo Gauge
Faces |
740
Turbo/Boost Faces |
240 Black Door Vinyl |
850 Odometer
Repair |
ALTERNATOR PAGE |
240 Power Mirrors - Switches |
240 Oil Cooler Page |
240 Fuse Panel Page |
Group A
Racing Volvo 242 Turbo |
240 Hydraulic Clutch | Fuel Pump Relay Page |
240 Headlight Relay Page |
Used Parts & Stuff |
CRIMPING Page |
240 Ignition Page |
240 Headlight Page |
240 Gauge and Electrical Diagrams | 240 Rear End Page | Yoshifab Catch Can Install | 240 Mods and Fixes |
Side Marker Lights | Gentex Mirror Upgrade | Yoshifab Drain Tube Install | Modified 240 Favorites |
SoCal Salvage Yards | Unleaded Racing Fuel | B26FT Stroker | Dave's 245 Spec Page |
240 Suspensions | 240 Lowering Page |
240 Windshield Page |
240 WIPER Page |
240 Big Brakes | 240 Dash Top Gauge Pod | Cadillac 4-Note Horn Install | 240 Dynamat Install |
4 Speed Fan
Controller |
Electric Cooling Fan
Page |
Tropical Fan
Clutches |
240 AC Page |
240 VIN Page | Stepper Idle Valve Page |
Vacuum Diagrams | Volvo Meet Photo Albums |
240 Exhaust Page | 242 Vent Window Project |
EFI - Ignition PIN Function Diagrams |
Favorite Links |
R-Sport
Apparel |
Prancing
Moose Apparel |
Mojave Road Trail Map Page |
Texas Volvo Meets
and Events |
Ordering Instructions | Policies | Payments | Shopping Cart Troubleshooting |
Returns | Shipping | Contact Us |
![]() |