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240 Fuse Panel Page

Updated: February 9, 2021     CONTACT
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N A V I G A T E   T H I S   P A G E
240 Fuse panel Diagrams
Fuse Panel Inner Workings
Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste

If you can help with these diagrams or have a suggestion, please email:  CONTACT


Typical 240 Fuse Panel Diagrams
240 Fuse panels can be a mystery.  Here are some images showing how the diagrams looked over the years. 


1977 240 Fuse Panel (12 fuses).


1978 240 Fuse Panel
(12 fuses).


1979 240 Fuse Panel
(16 fuses).


1980 240 Fuse Panel
(16 fuses).


1984 240 Fuse Panel (16 fuses).
Typical for 1981-84.


1987 240 Fuse Panel (16 fuses).
Typical for 1985 to approx 1988.


1990 240 Fuse Panel (16 fuses).
Typical for 1989 to 1990.

1993 240 Fuse Panel (16 fuses).
 



Inner Workings of the 240 Fuse Panel
Early 240s had 12 main fuses. Beginning in 1979 the fuse panel was enlarged to 16 fuses as shown here. 

<<< Fuse panels have GROUPED INPUTS.  This means that for the input side of the fuses (which is the contact for the LEFT side of a fuse) some are grouped together.  Here you can see that Fuses 1 through 3 are grouped, 6 through 10, etc.  This was done by way of a brass part of the panel embedded inside the plastic to create the groups. If you look at the FUSE LABEL, you will see these groups noted by the red line to the left of each group.

With a grouped input, a power circuit connected to one input will supply power to all in that group.




Turning the fuse panel a bit to see the right side, you will see that there are three male spades next to each fuse.  These spades are all 1/4 inch (6.3 mm) wide and will fit standard 1/4 inch crimp terminals. 
The rear most spade is the INPUT, which is joined to the LEFT side of the fuse.  The input circuits are usually power circuits from the battery or switched power circuits (switched on by the key).
The front two spades are the OUTPUTS and both of these go to the RIGHT side of the fuse.  Output circuits go out to the devices that need the power, such as lights, radio or instruments.
 


In some places you will find this "piggy-back" terminal.  This was used to allow for extra connections or accessories if both output spades were already in use. 

If you have a need for one of these "piggy-back" terminals, they're available in my Harness Parts Page:
https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html#250piggyback

Also if you need any of the 1/4 inch (6.3 mm) crimp terminals, those are also available for small or large wire: https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html#.250femterminals


In some places you will see a wire bridge from the input of one fuse (or group) to another, such as this Red/White wire.  In this instance this bridge is from Fuse 12 input to Fuse 5 input.



Keep Your Fuse Panel Circuits Clean and Corrosion Free
240s have a reputation for corrosion problems with the fuses in this panel.  You'll find references to people "spinning" a fuse to help with contact if something stops working.  This really isn't entirely the fault of the fuse design, since corrosion can happen to any electrical connection.  The most common reason for such corrosion is the climate environment and age.  A wet or corrosion-prone environment, especially if the car is stored outdoors, will introduce corrosion faster, but there are ways to avoid it. 

Have a look at the recommendation below for using anti-corrosive zinc paste. Using this on fuses (and also on the input/output spade connections) will remove many future headaches caused by electrical glitches.






ANTI-CORROSIVE ZINC PASTE
If we can just just keep our electrical connections clean and tight, almost all of the electrical issues would be gone forever.  That would be nice, right?

I have owned a number of Volvos over the last 30 years and my current 240 is way over 30 years old. It almost never has electrical problems. Nothing like the endless numbers of other 240s out there that I hear about so often. What's the difference you ask?  The difference is that my 240 has been always garaged all of its life.  Why is that important?  Because leaving any car out in the open elements for years and years slowly introduces corrosion to grounds and power connections until things begin to go wrong. 
So if you own one of those cars that has been outside forever, it's not too late. You can still clean as many grounds and electrical connections as possible. 
And while you're at it,
I recommend that you smear a little anti-corrosive zinc paste on those connections. 
Many people in the Volvo community gravitate toward
Ox-Gard, which does a similar job.  

The below information was contributed by Ron Kwas and should come in very handy to old Volvo owners:
Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste (a generic name for zinc dust contained in a grease) was originally developed for and later required by electrical codes for use on alumunum to copper electrical connections (or other dissimilar metal connections).  No, it's not the same as Dielectric Grease, which is often incorrectly recommended. Dielectric Grease can offer some protection in the form of encapsulation from moisture, but it also carries with it the potential disadvantage of locking in moisture or corrosion which may have already begun.  Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste (or ACZP) is the next evolution of the encapsulation principle, because zinc (the lowest on the Galvanic nobility chart) neutralizes corrosion on a micro-scale to truly protect connections on a long-term basis during the encapsulation, INCLUDING an added protection from corrosion which may otherwise begin to form in that connection. 

Ron uses and recommends Penetrox A (by Burndy).  Many Volvo fans are familiar with Ox-Gard, which is a similar zinc compound. Ron and I are huge advocates of treating ALL electrical connections on our cars (except of course High Voltage Ignition connections) with a suitable version of this material. 
You can learn more about this stuff at Ron's page here: 
http://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm 
 


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