2 4 0 T U R B O . C O M
D A V E ' S V O L V O P A G E
N A V I G A T E T H I S P A G E
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|Typical 240 Fuse Panel Diagrams
240 Fuse panels can be a mystery. Here are some images showing how the diagrams looked over the years.
1977 240 Fuse Panel (12 fuses).
1977 240 Fuse Panel (12 fuses).
1984 240 Fuse Panel (16 fuses).
Typical for 1979-84.
1987 240 Fuse Panel (16 fuses).
Typical for 1985 to approx 1988.
1993 240 Fuse Panel (16 fuses).
Typical for approx. 1989 to 1993.
|Inner Workings of the 240 Fuse Panel
||Early 240s had 12 main fuses. Beginning in 1979 the fuse panel was enlarged to 16 fuses as shown.
Later fuse panels such as this one have grouped inputs. This
means that for the input side of the fuses (left side fuse contact) some of them are
grouped together. Here you can see that Fuses 1 through 3 are
grouped, 6 through 10, etc. This was done by way of a brass part of the panel
embedded in the plastic to join the groups. If you look at the fuse label, you will see these groups noted by the red line to the left of each group.
|Keep Your Fuse Panel Circuits Clean and Corrosion Free
have a reputation for corrosion problems with the fuses in this
panel. You'll find references to people "spinning" a fuse to help
with contact is something stops working. This really isn't
entirely the fault of the fuse design, since corrosion can happen to any
electrical connection. The most common reason for such corrosion
is the climate environment and age. A wet or corrosion-prone
environment, especially if the car is stored outdoors, will introduce corrosion faster, but there are ways to avoid it. have a look at the recommendation below for using anti-corrosize zinc past. Using this on fuses (and also on the input/output connections) will remove many future headaches caused by electrical glitches.
If we can just just keep our
electrical connections clean and tight,
almost all of the electrical
issues would be gone
forever. That would be
have owned a number of Volvos
over the last 30 years and my
current 240 is way over 30 years
old. It almost never has
electrical problems. Nothing
like the endless numbers of
other 240s out there that I hear
about so often. What's the
difference you ask? The
difference is that my 240 has
been always garaged all of its
life. Why is that
important? Because leaving
any car out in the open elements
for years and years slowly
introduces corrosion to grounds
and power connections until
things begin to go wrong.
So if you own one of
those cars that has been outside
forever, it's not too late. You
can still clean as many grounds
and electrical connections as
And while you're
at it, I recommend
that you smear a little
anti-corrosive zinc paste on
people in the Volvo community
gravitate toward Ox-Gard,
which does a similar job.
The below information was
contributed by Ron Kwas and should
come in very handy to old Volvo
Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste
(a generic name for zinc dust
contained in a grease) was
originally developed for and later
required by electrical codes for use
on alumunum to copper electrical
connections (or other dissimilar
metal connections). No,
it's not the same as Dielectric
Grease, which is often
incorrectly recommended. Dielectric
Grease can offer some protection in
the form of encapsulation
moisture, but it also
carries with it the potential
disadvantage of locking in moisture
or corrosion which may have already
begun. Anti-Corrosive Zinc
Paste (or ACZP) is the next
evolution of the encapsulation
principle, because zinc (the lowest
on the Galvanic nobility chart)
neutralizes corrosion on a
micro-scale to truly protect
connections on a long-term basis
during the encapsulation, INCLUDING
an added protection from corrosion
which may otherwise begin to form in
and recommends Penetrox
A (by Burndy). Many
Volvo fans are familiar with Ox-Gard,
which is a similar zinc compound.
Ron and I are huge advocates of treating
ALL electrical connections on our
cars (except of course High Voltage
Ignition connections) with a
suitable version of this
You can learn more about this
stuff at Ron's page here: