![]() |
UPDATED: March 4, 2025
CONTACT
![]() |
D O
M A I N S![]() ![]() ![]() |
|||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
This
page will hold a bunch of research I've collected over the years on T5
transmission swaps into the Volvo 240 and stuff related to that. I'll continue to add things here as I they come along. If you can help with this, please email. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
FIRST for me came the
Installation of an M46 Transmission My 1984 240 originally came with an AW71 automatic transmission, like most 240s imported to the USA. A truth for the ages: If two pedals are good, three are definitely better! My personal preference for a good driving car has always been a manual transmission, but a nice 240 Turbo with a manual transmission was not easy to find when I wanted to buy one. When a good one finally became available, it was hard to pass, because it was exceptional, even though it had an auto trans. Eventually my original auto transmission totally failed more than 100 miles from home during a road-trip to the annual Davis Volvo Show in Calif. I called for a flatbed tow (having a premier AAA account was a great decision) and the car was sent back home while I hitched a ride in friend's Volvo who was also on his way to Davis. This is an M46 4-speed plus overdrive transmission. I pulled this transmission from a wrecked 1983 242 Turbo SE (flathood). ![]() The old M46 wire harness that came with the M46 was in poor condition, so I had to make a new one. I saved the info and later made some diagrams for others if needed. Those diagrams can be seen in my 240 Mods and Fixes Page: 240turbo.com/volvo240mods#m46harness ![]() That 1983 M46 came with a Type J OD, which had a cable speedometer output. Research has suggested that later M46 transmissions with Type P OD will not have a cable output. There are some solutions for this problem if you still have a cable speedo: CLICK HERE. ![]() ![]() Volvo stopped using speedometer cables after 1985. The M46 was still used in 240 models through 1986 (or possibly in some 1987 models). In 1987 the 240s with manual transmission began receiving new M47 5-speed. The M47 may not not come with a speedometer cable output either, although the "Grupp 38 Instrument" table below suggests that there may have been some M47s that did come with speedometer cable outputs. I'm not aware of them *actually* existing though. The 740 Turbo (and 740 16 valve) models with manual transmissions would continue to get the M46 through 1990, because it was stronger than the M47. The M46 then became obsolete after 1990 and was permanently discontinued. Here's a table below showing gear ratios for a number of different Volvo manual transmissions. ![]() Here's a table below showing the different TOOTH COUNTS and GEAR COLORS of 240 speedometer cable gears for manual transmissions. These gears will be in any manual transmission which has a speedo cable output. This table was originally in Swedish. I have added some English translation text. ![]() This table above came from Greenbook TP30176 240 Specifications. Lubricant recommendation for M46 or M47. Taken from TP30941 Manual Transmissions, page 4. ![]() Lubricant recommendation for M46 or M47. Taken from TP30941 Manual Transmissions Supplement, page 7. ![]() REAR END INFO Considering that my 1984 240 Turbo originally had an automatic transmission, the rear end ratio for MY CAR was 3.91:1. A factory manual transmission 1984 240 would have received a different rear end ratio of 3.73:1. A lot more 240 rear end stuff can be found in my REAR END PAGE. YOUR 240 Trans/Rear End Combo May Vary Rear end ratios were NOT very consistent for the 240 over the years. There were a LOT of combinations. I have begun compiling information below I could find in Volvo documentation. This might help you plan for your particular rear end ratio needs.
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
T5 MANUAL TRANSMISSION UPGRADE
Fearing the M46 would eventually break from too much torque, I decided to install a Ford Motorsport World Class T5Z 5-speed transmission. ![]() I bought this transmission new from Summit Racing in 2004 (about $1300 back then). It's pretty much the same as this one from Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/rem-1352-000-251. The Ford T5 transmission was originally used for 1979 to 1993 Ford Mustangs. It was originally manufactured by Borg Warner. In 1997 Tremec bought Borg Warner's transmission division, so transmissions made after 1997 were marked "TREMEC" on the case. The input shaft on the Ford V8 model has 10 splines (1.0625" diameter). The output shaft has 28 splines. The rear T5 slip yoke uses a 1330 series U-joint, which measures 3.625 inches wide. These U-joint bearing caps are 1.0625 inch diameter. The T5 has a 7 tooth cable speedometer drive gear output. I adapted a modified Volvo speedo cable SEEN HERE. DIFFERENT VERSIONS of the T5 If you're shopping for a used T5 and you want to know more about how to identity different varieties, Modern Driveline has some great info for you. moderndriveline.com/the-many-different-faces-of-the-t5/ moderndriveline.com/category/transmission-details/ ADAPTING A T5 TO A VOLVO BELL HOUSING ![]() An adapter plate is needed to bolt a T5 to a Volvo bell housing. The above adapter plate is available from BNE Dynamics. The bell housing will also need to be modified in the center area (it gets machined). This can be done by you or BNE Dynamics can provide a modified bell housing for you. In the below photo you can see an adapter plate in place during my original 240 installation in 2004. ![]() NEW PILOT BEARING (AKA: PILOT BUSHING) Clutch Pilot Bearing: Standard Ford Mustang 5.0 type. Ford Performance Parts M-7600-A, Dorman PN 14677. I.D.: 0.672 inch. O.D.: 1.378 inch. The new pilot bearing is needed on the rear of the crankshaft to correctly fit the tip of the input shaft on the T5 transmission. You'll need to remove your old Volvo pilot bearing first. ![]() Here's a video below of an easy way to remove an old pilot bearing using grease and pressure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pBdpTCpaqQ When I first installed the T5 I used a CABLE Type Clutch Fork. The standard Volvo clutch fork is used with a Ford Mustang style clutch release bearing. The fork required some special metal pieces to be added to properly support the bearing. ![]() These are really old photos from 2004. There are some better photos below of the new parts that are offered by BNE Dynamics. ![]() These special pieces are now available from BNE Dynamics: bneshop.com/throwout-bearing-for-t5 ![]() The McLeod 1600 bearing above is equal to the standard Ford bearing. The McLeod 16515 is an improved adjustable version. If you instead decide to use a HYDRAULIC CLUTCH setup, I have a page dedicated to that HERE. Learning some Hydraulic Clutch Basics (T5 Specific) If you're a beginner at the subject of Hydraulic Clutches or if you want to learn more of the basics, I think you would benefit from watching the below 6-part series on Hydraulic Clutches 101. youtube.com/watch?v=m0bMac1 T5 GEAR RATIOS
*
My new T5 originally came with this 0.63 ratio 5th gear above.
I was ultimately not happy with this ratio, so I changed it.
Cruising in 5th gear with my low compression B21FT felt like my car was lugging at highway speeds, especially below 3000 rpm. There were some other 5th gear ratios available for this transmission over the years. One of them was 0.73:1. I was able to locate a brand new 5th GEAR SET that would convert my 0.63 5th gear to 0.73, which I then had installed by a transmission shop. ![]() I should explain that a 5th GEAR SET for a T5 transmission is made up of two matched gears. One is a countershaft gear and one is a main shaft gear. And for the overdrive ratio to be correctly calculated, certain 5th gear sets must be chosen according to the existing FIRST gear ratio. The Ford T5 came with a 1st gear of either 2.95:1 or 3.35:1. Mine came with 2.95:1. The original 0.63 5th gear ratio that came in my transmission meant the matched gears it had was a 51 tooth countershaft gear and a 25 tooth main shaft gear. To convert my T5 to 0.73 OD, I needed a matching gear set consisting of a 55 tooth countershaft gear and a 31 tooth main shaft gear. The table below will help you understand how these combinations work and how different 5th gear sets will turn out depending on which 1st gear ratio is already installed.
It should be noted that T5 transmissions were made for both Ford cars and GM cars. T5 transmissions for both makes had different optional 5th gear ratios. All FORD World Class (WC) T5s came with a 28 spline output shaft, while all GM WC T5 transmissions had a 27 spline output shaft. This difference is important to note, because the main shaft gear used in a 5th gear set must have the same spline count as the output shaft. SO A MAIN SHAFT GEAR FOR A GM TRANSMISSION WILL NOT FIT IN A FORD TRANSMISSION.
While new T5 transmissions are still available, some transmission parts that were easy to find years ago have become harder to find. Finding sources for 5th overdrive gear sets, such as those listed above, can be harder. I have begun listing part numbers here as I can find them. If you can help with this, please let me know. I found the new 0.73 overdrive to be a much better ratio for a small Volvo engine with low compression like my B21FT (7.5:1 static compression ratio).
NICE GEAR SHIFT CALCULATOR APP This calculator can help you visualize how shift points can work with your ratios. You can enter tire size and all gear ratios. And it also will play an animation of your gear changes. https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear ![]() SPEEDOMETER CABLE ADAPTATION ![]() I chose to keep the old school speedometer cable my car came with, however most 240's out there nowadays (1986 and later) will have an electric speedometer, which of course requires a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the rear end. The T5 conveniently had a mechanical speedometer cable output port shown above. ![]() I found a Ford T5 speedo cable in a salvage yard from a Mustang and cut off the transmission end shown above. Then I removed the end from a Volvo 240 cable. The ends are simply pushed or crimped onto the plastic sheath, so removing them was not hard. Then I grafted the Volvo cable sheath to the Ford end, making certain the square inner drive cable came through far enough to engage that red plastic gear above. This has worked perfectly for many years. If the red gear shown above is the same as the below image, then it should have 21 teeth and seems to work well in my car with a 3.91:1 rear end. ![]() A variety of different speedometer gears can be found for the Ford T5 transmission. 16 through 23 teeth. Above image is from: shiftsst.com/speedo-gears-101.html. YOSHIFAB SPEEDOMETER CABLE This wasn't available back then, but now you can buy a ready-to-install speedo cable instead of creating one on your own. https://yoshifab.com/speedometer-cable Other Resources for Adapting Mechanical (cable) Speedometers to Electronic Signals or Electric Speedometers to Mechanical Drive. I began compiling info on options for various needs and I have begun developing that info in my Gauge Cluster Electronics Page at 240turbo.com/#speedoadapters. Some of these options are quite expensive. Some will need a bit of experimentation. Your comments are welcome. If you have used any of these products (or similar products), please let me know. I would like to hear from anyone who has used these solutions. ![]() ![]() ![]() See these options and more at 240turbo.com/#speedoadapters. MORE RESOURCES FOR FITTING A T5 TRANSMISSION IN A 240 If you're looking for more info on fitting a T5 transmission into a 240 or other Volvo, here are some good places to start looking: Aaron Reed Baker's T5 installation page: http://www.aaronreedbaker.com/t5swap.html Smoothdurban's thread beginning at post #91: turbobricks.com/smoothys-242-turbo-build.292243 and these turbobricks.com/t5-swap-all-you-need-to-know.3620 turbobricks.com/t5-done-good-news-and-bad.23541 turbobricks.com/what-my-b23ft-and-t-5z-cost-to-install.23646 turbobricks.com/questions-about-a-5-speed.23284 turbobricks.com/talk-me-into-the-t5-swap.18952 turbobricks.com/got-my-t5-in.17614 turbobricks.com/turborgs-b23ft-and-t-5z-install-is-done-pics.17283 turbobricks.com/b23ft-and-t-5z-install-started-pics.16921 turbobricks.com/t5-bits.15408 turbobricks.com/driveshaft-questions-on-t-5-swap.16019 turbobricks.com/tremac-t5s.11183/ turbobricks.com/t-5-transmission-converson-questions-answered.37552/ 1800philes.com T5 installation 2007 T5 Swap in a 240. Added 2023: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqm9D2c1TRo Rebuilding a T5 Transmission This is not something I've done, but if you search YouTube you'll find a number of videos on rebuilding a T5. Here's a search: https://www.youtube.com/how+to+rebuild+ford+t5 OR if you need to rebuild and UPGRADE a T5 to handle more power, try this video. Building a Budget 400 HP T5 Transmission https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8S13XcbK7Vw Here's an extensive T5 Gearbox Part Number Reference. Bob from Australia compiled this and sent it to me for use here. If you want to help Bob with any corrections or new information, he can be contacted at bgpzfm [at] hotmail [dot] com. Below document 0.7mb PDF. ![]() |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Transmission Mount and Crossmember The crossmember and transmission mount may not seem like it needs a lot of thought or planning, but after my experiences, I disagree and you'll see below the problems I needed to solve. ![]() ![]() Back in 2004 when the T5 installation was first being developed in a 240, pretty much every installation ended up with a very simple modification to the stock 240 crossmember. They all looked like this ABOVE. This was 1/4 inch steel plate that was welded to the bottom of the original crossmember. So I did this also, thinking it should work ok. ![]() ![]() Then in nearly all installations, a standard Ford T5 transmission mount for a Mustang would be used, mounted in a VERTICAL position. Or an aftermarket polyurethane Mustang trans mount could be used (which I tried out for a while also). I later found that the T5 mount was not working well at all. A potential serious problem came up. HERE'S THE PROBLEM When using this mount, I eventually discovered that my engine had slowly SHIFTED REARWARD, far enough that the BACK of the CYLINDER HEAD WAS FIRMLY AGAINST THE FIREWALL. ![]() The PHOTO ABOVE shows what I discovered when looking under the car. The mount was being forcibly deformed, allowing the engine/transmission to move toward the rear. THIS IS WHY ![]() ![]() I was using OEM ENGINE MOUNTS like pictured ABOVE. When I closely checked my engine mounts, I discovered they were deforming similar to the above "DEFORMED" photo. This allowed the engine to move rearward toward the firewall until the firewall stopped it. This needed to be corrected. The Volvo 240 designers created the factory mounts to be a THREE POINT CRADLE SYSTEM to keep the engine-trans combo centered in the three mounts. The rear transmission mount needed to be tilted forward to keep the engine from moving to the rear. ![]() No one thought this detail was important when they began installing T5s in 240s. MY CHANGES TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM. After I found this problem and before anyone was making custom crossmembers or mounts for a T5 conversion, I approached a couple well known Volvo parts fabricators in hopes that a better design might be created. I specifically wanted to change the transmission mount style to something MORE LIKE A FACTORY MOUNT. I made the below sketches, where the transmission mount was tilted forward. I got nowhere. The advice I got was to simply install ultra-stiff or SOLID engine mounts and live with excessive vibration. Not good advice for a street car in my opinion. ![]() I shared the above sketches on Turbobricks, hoping to find some support. It shouldn't be so difficult. This is pretty much exactly the same as a factory Volvo manual transmission mount. Volvo designed it this way. This is how I needed it to be (again). My measurements found there was enough room to choose from a few smaller style mounts, depending on where the best position for the crossmember ended up. There are only a few existing bolt-in positions for the crossmember to the car. Using a vertical Ford Mustang T5 mount like I did at first was not going to work and it was TOO TALL to use if it was if it was tilted. Using a smaller/shorter mount tilted forward would work, like a Volvo M46 rubber trans mount or something similar could certainly fit in there without much trouble. ![]() Here are the mounts ABOVE I wanted to consider for this. I had some of these in my parts bins. The standard M46 mount is an easy choice, but I thought it would be good to have more than one choice to see what fits best for a good transmission height. The transmission height is important, but there isn't a lot of room under the center tunnel for a lot of different height positions. The left engine mount ABOVE is very close in size to the M46 mount, except the studs are offset on the engine mount. If a taller mount is needed, the RIGHT engine mount ABOVE might be a choice to consider. A Turbobricks member eventually began offering a new crossmember design using steel box tubing. His design normally offered the typical vertical T5 mount configuration that everyone used, which became a problem for me (I don't have a photo of that mount version in his design). I discussed my ideas with him using the above tilted mount sketches I made. He agreed to modify one of his custom crossmembers for me. His design would hold an ANGLED transmission mount that I was asking for. The result was this mount and transmission bracket pictured BELOW. ![]() He made a strong effort, while using a 240 he had access to, which had a T5 installed. But he made an error. Instead of fitting a more compact style transmission mount, he made the mistake of fitting a way too LARGE Ford Mustang T5 mount (not what I asked for). He also goofed and neglected to consider how low to the ground his design was going to end up when installed. This resulted in the lowest part of the crossmember (BELOW) being way too low for an already lowered 240. ![]() I'm open to trying things out before criticizing someone's hard work. So I ran with it and lived with the annoying scrapes on speed bumps and driveways. Eventually it resulted in the SEVERE CARNAGE SHOWN BELOW. ![]() REPAIRING THE CARNAGE First, before dropping the trans crossmember, take some simple steps to make sure the engine doesn't migrate rearward when you unbolt things. The engine may want to move rearward and it'll distort the engine mounts. ![]() I got under my car and stared at this transmission bracket BELOW for a good long while. I considered making a changes in this piece. I even tried a few alternate designs, mocking up some using cardboard, but in the end I found the best idea was to stay with this piece and drill it to fit a smaller, SHORTER Volvo rubber mount. ![]() Remember these mounts BELOW? Since I had these three mounts on hand, I tried fitting them all to see which one seemed to fit best with the transmission height I liked. ![]() For the record, I basically mounted the transmission as high in the tunnel as I could get it, while not hitting the floor. There is very little space in there, but everything does clear ok. In the end I used the larger ENGINE MOUNT above CENTER in the photo. And I modded the crossmember like this below to accept that mount. ![]() ![]() When I was happy with things, I gave it a fresh coat of paint. Here's the final result using the 240 right side ENGINE MOUNT as a trans mount. This is working perfectly now and no more contact with the ground, ever. My car is so much happier now. ![]() |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Optional Stronger 5-Speed Transmissions T5 versus the new TKX ![]() PHOTO: T5 versus TKX Dimensions (FORD versions) It's well known the T5 transmission is not as strong as a Tremec TK series. The WC T5 I chose had an advertised torque rating of about 330 ft. lbs. These limits have been perfectly acceptable for most 4 cylinder Volvos. Over the years, some makers of Volvo transmission adapters (such an BNE Dynamics) have begun offering versions which also can adapt a Tremec TK series 5 speed. In 2021 Tremec introduced an all new TKX 5 speed transmission, which is now the replacement for the obsolete TKO 5-speed, which had been around for many years. Of course these much stronger TKX transmissions are more expensive than a T5. The new TKX 5 speed transmission is a completely new design and it looks nothing like the T5 or the old TKO, but it shares the same overall length and uses the same bell housing mounting dimensions as the TKO (different than a T5). So it can be used for our Volvos with an available adapter. The major differences in the TKX include a slimmer design (for easier fit in tight transmission tunnels), more options for gear ratios, more options for shifter placement, a torque rating of 600 ft. lbs., a higher 8000 rpm limit with shifting available up to 7500 rpm, and it has both electric and CABLE speedo outputs. It's advertised as having the same superior shifting characteristics as the T56 6-speed. The cross member mounting points on a TKX are in a slightly different position; about 0.8 inch higher and about 1.2 inch further back that the T5. The TKX transmission weighs about 23 lbs. heavier than a T5 (about 98 lbs. versus 75 lbs.). INPUT SHAFT: If you were to swap from an existing T5 to a TKX, or if you're doing a first-time conversion to a 240, but want to use a TKX instead of a T5, there are a few things to keep in mind. The Ford T5 used most in this T5 swap will generally have a 10 spine input shaft (1.0625 inch diameter). It appears a 10 spline input shaft version of the TKX is available, same 1.0625 inch diameter, but when I checked on-line I found it listed out of stock or special order only, so there may be a wait. And from what I've read, the optional 26 spine input shaft versions should be stronger, since more splines is generally considered stronger. Plus the 26 spine input shaft is larger in diameter (1.125 inch versus 1.063 inch for 10 spline). You can use this info in case using a 26 spline input shaft is an option for you. A 26 spline version will require a different clutch disk and release bearing. I'm not sure if the same clutch pilot bearing can be used, but I suspect the answer is yes. OUTPUT SHAFT: The Ford T5 came with a 28 spline output shaft. A T5 slip yoke (shown a bit below) uses a 1330 series U-joint. The TKX only comes with a 31 spline output shaft for all versions. So a different slip yoke is needed. A 1330 series U-joint slip yoke is available for the TKX, so the U-joint can be the same. A 1330 series U-joint measures 3.625 inches wide. The bearing caps are 1.0625 inch diameter. TREMEC TKX OFFERS SOME NEW GEAR RATIO OPTIONS ![]() COMPARED TO TYPICAL FORD T5 GEAR RATIOS
A Guide To Tremec Manual Transmissions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOGFOkP_lUY |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
DRIVESHAFT STUFF The top driveshaft shown BELOW is a stock driveshaft for a 1984 Volvo 240 with an automatic transmission. ![]() The T5 transmission can be installed in a 240 with a ONE-PIECE or TWO-PIECE driveshaft. For this installation I chose a TWO-PIECE style. I had a driveline shop custom build the new front half of the driveshaft, which I then assembled onto the unmodified rear half. The slip yoke on the new driveshaft above is a standard T5 type, which uses a 1330 series U-joint. The normal Volvo front U-joint is a 1310 series, so the driveshaft shop installed a combination U-joint 1310 to 1330. YOSHIFAB PREPARED FRONT DRIVESHAFT This wasn't available back then, but now you can buy a ready-to-install FRONT DRIVESHAFT instead of creating one on your own. yoshifab.com/240-t5-front-drive-shaft Here's a video if you need guidance removing a driveshaft or if you plan to replace the center support bearing and rubber bushing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6m8b5LfWjr4 U-JOINT ANGLES This is a very good video on PINION or U-JOINT ANGLES. Watch it! It explains things better than I ever could. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgNZfIR-8Ng DRIVESHAFT LENGTH ![]() These photos above are of a custom ONE-PIECE driveshaft that was made for a 240 using a Ford T5 transmission and stock rear end. When measuring the length that you need, you must measure at a similar point on each end. The center of the universal joint is a good place to measure as shown above. This one-piece 240 driveshaft measures about 46.25 inches long at the U-joint centers. ![]() The final driveshaft length doesn't need to be ultra-precise. If you're working on measurements, you can approximate where the above slip yoke needs to be in the back of the transmission. With the car on the ground and at ride height, it should end up roughly half way between the two images above. Not too far in. Not too far out. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
HURST SHIFTER |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
A Hurst
performance short-throw shifter was added when I installed my T5.
The Hurst chromed shifter stick I used is
shown above and detailed more below.
My setup began with the original cable style clutch and pedal, but I later changed that to a hydraulic clutch setup after stretching and breaking a couple clutch cables. More info about hydraulic clutch setups can be found in my Hydraulic Clutch Page. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
The knob position was originally a little
tall for my preference, so I cut off about an inch off of the bottom.
The holes I used are shown in this photo of the modified shifter. I'm using the BOTTOM hole (which was originally the top hole) and the third hole from the bottom, which I drilled. The other holes are not being used. The final shifter position is now perfect in my opinion. It's comfortable and and easy to reach any gear without having to reach far. I tailored the above shift handle to my needs, but a really good shifter position can be found for a 240 with almost any shifter stick that's around 6 to 8 inches long and with a small curve toward the rear. This handle below is another common Hurst chromed stick that will fit very well with no mods (maybe). ![]() Hurst 5380015 8 inch stick with 3 inch offset. ![]() This is a rubber bushing from Hurst. PN 1140015. It helps the flat shifter handle fit nicely in the round hole of the stock Volvo rubber shift boot. ![]() ![]() ![]() |