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Yoshifab Catch Can

     UPDATED: February 13, 2019                       CONTACT       
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If you have any comments or if you can improve this information, please feel free to email.

This page covers the installation of my new Yoshifab breather box (catch can) in my 242 Turbo during the Summer of 2018. 
As you read this you should know I don't always follow directions and I have been known to ignore sound advice. This install continues with that philosophy.

Yoshifab offers these items in their pages at the following links: 

The can is designed with two IN ports, so that you can vent crankcase
vapor from two different sources. The illustration also shows the use of a vented oil filler cap and a vent/drain fitting for the block, which are available from Yoshifab.

This is the Yoshifab catch can. The top and side ports are all -10 AN Male thread.  The bottom oil drain port is -8 AN Male thread.
<<< This block vent and drain fitting plate from Yoshifab is designed to replace the original Volvo breather box under the intake manifold.
This fitting has two ports. The drain port on the left side has a -8 AN Male fitting. The vent port on the right side has a -10 AN Male fitting.  If you're not aware, the Volvo engine block has a long plastic tube inside that extends from that drain port down into the oil sump.  The bottom of that tube is submerged in the oil. Having this drain extended below the oil level ensures that this pipe drains freely and does not get any interference from crankcase pressures.  So basically this system is designed so that when an external catch can is installed, the bottom of the can is to be placed somewhere reasonably close to and above the level of this drain port.  This is not always convenient in a Volvo due to tight space, although there are people who have done it that way with good success. 

As you'll see below, I opted to NOT use the drain port on this fitting.

That drain port can be capped off with a -8 AN Female Cap, such as this item from Summit Racing: Earl's  -8 AN Cap (AT992908ERL)This is what I used, since my drain is on the other side of the engine.

AN racing style hose internal dimensions are measured in 1/16th of an inch increments. 
-8 AN is 8/16th of an inch ID (1/2 inch).  -10 AN is 10/16ths of an inch ID (5/8 inch). 

<<< This is not my car.
I added this pic to show what most people are doing when installing a catch can in a RWD Volvo.  You can see here that a Yoshifab catch can has been mounted on the left (intake) side of this engine.  It's mounted to a bracket that's attached to the brake booster. That's a good location, except for there being very little space there. Below you'll see I decided to do it differently.

<<< Here's my car. I decided instead to mount the catch can on the right (exhaust) side of the engine bay in the back corner.  No, I'm not crazy and yes, it'll work.  My drain to the crankcase will be on the exhaust side too. Keep reading.
<<<  The brackets I used are aluminum mounting brackets for ATV lights. I found them on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072M59GXX/These are made for a 3/4 inch tube (and available for other sizes). 3/4 inch is the size of the 242 GT diagonal brace tube I have there.
<<< My plan routed the catch can drain down into a Y-fitting that joins with the turbo oil drain just above the block drain.  This Y-fitting tends to make things a little complicated down there as you can see here, so some planning was needed for all these AN hose fittings to fit in a small space.  The turbo oil drain that I previously installed uses Summit PTFE lined racing hose, which is a high temperature hose designed for hot oil (rated to 400 degrees Fahrenheit). So I used the same type PTFE hose for the catch can. I wanted to use a hose that was rated for high temperature since this stuff is so close to the exhaust manifold and turbo.

<<< Here are the connectors used to assemble this Y-fitting.  The Y-fitting has -10 AN male ends. It uses a reducer to -8 AN for the hose that goes up to the breather box.
Not shown here is the turbo oil drain (seen in above photos), which connects to the other upper end of the Y-fitting. That hose uses a short piece of Summit Racing -10 AN PTFE hose (SUM-2201010), one Summit Racing PTFE Hose End -10 AN 90 degrees (SUM-250087B), and one Summit Racing PTFE Hose End -10 Straight (SUM 250090B).  Specific detailed information about the turbo drain hose fitting that fits into the block can be found in a separate article HERE.

Assembling PTFE hose ends is not difficult, but you'll need some guidance if it's your first time.  There are good instructions here: http://anfittingguide.com/install-ptfe-hose-fittings/. 
And a good video below.
Here's a good video on assembling these PTFE fittings:

<<< I installed a one-way check valve in the hose between the catch can and the Y-fitting. It needs to be placed so flow goes down only.  A check valve is used in this situation because the drain goes into the oil sump above the oil level.  A different option would be if the drain went into the sump below the oil level.  A check valve WOULD NOT be needed if this tube drained to a port BELOW the oil level.

You can't see it here, but I used a 45 degree adapter (-8 AN Female to -8 AN Female) between the catch can and the check valve.
Like this one:  https://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/AT939208/10002/-1

More detail about the check valve is below.

This is the check valve. It accepts -8 AN fittings on both ends and can be found at Summit Racing here: One-Way Check Valve -8 AN Male (SUM-220193B)
The summit instructions explicitely tell you not to screw with the spring that holds the check-valve closed.  I couldn't stop myself.  I felt it was too tight, so I tweaked it until it was much easier to push open.  I want this to drain freely and not back up into the catch can.  I'm pretty confident in my decision.
After several months and a number of hours of driving time, I pulled things apart to inspect and found everything PERFECTLY CLEAN.  Things are working well.

Making a Proper Drain WITHOUT using a Checkvalve
Maybe you don't like my idea and the Y-fitting I used.  No problem. 
Here's another idea below that allows the drain to remain on the exhaust side without a Y-fitting.

<<< You may instead place a port on the exhaust side of the oil pan below the oil level instead of having a Y-fitting. This bulkhead fitting pictured would be a good option. This would also eliminate the need for a check valve, so things would be much simpler (except for having to pull the oil pan to drill a hole). This bulkhead fitting can be found here: Fragola Bulkhead -8 AN Male (483108-BL) .  Just be sure it's installed BELOW the oil level.

Venting through Fuel Pump Opening
<<< Yoshifab offers this adapter plate if you would like to mount an AN fitting vent to the fuel pump opening in the engine block.  I'm using this opening as one of the several crankcase vent locations. I am not using an  oil filler cap with a vent fitting, but that option is also available. This plate has a removable AN fitting in case you want a different sized fitting on there.  The plate is threaded -10 AN Straight Thread Female (O-Ring). An o-ring needs to be used to seal this connection.
<<<  The 90 degree fitting I'm using is this one: -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End 90 (SUM-260087B).  The barbed end is made for -10 AN Twist-Tite rubber hose, which has a 5/8 inch ID. You can also use
Aeroquip Socketless fittings in size -10 AN. Summit Twist-Tite hose is a similar hose (but cheaper) compared to Aeroquip Socketless hose, however the Aeroquip products, particularly the fittings, are considered to be better quality.  For a light-duty application like this breather, I didn't consider the higher quality to be critical.
Since the barb is 5/8 inch wide, you can use just about any hose with an ID of 5/8 inch. 

Yoshifab suggests using 5/8 inch PVC clear reinforced flexible tubing as a less expensive option over Socketless or other racing hose. The clear tu
bing has a fairly high temperature rating (150 degrees Fahrenheit) and since it's transparent, you can see what's going on inside if you're concerned about blockages.  I bought some on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRUROKO/
<<< Here's a pic showing the 5/8 inch clear PVC tubing in use at the catch can.  That top port got routed through the back of the strut tower, then to the front of the engine bay. It's connected to the intake air tube between my air fllter and turbo. That is a 150 degree curved fitting I used on top of the catch can. This one: -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End 150 Degree (SUM-260091B). 

<<< Here's a pic of that hose going to my intake tube after the filter and before the turbo.
<<< The straight fitting closest to the firewall on the catch can is for the hose going across the cam cover and then down past the intake manifold to the block breather vent. This fitting is -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End (SUM-260090B).  The same fitting can be used on the Yoshifab vent plate that replaces the stock breather box.

The curved fitting furthest from the firewall is a 120 degree curved fitting.  That hose goes to a nylon T-fitting near the intake manifold (it can be seen in next pic). This 120 degree fitting is -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End (SUM-260088B)
<<< Here you can see the hose closest to the front of the car continues down through the intake manifold and then turns forward to the fuel pump plate vent. The tee-fitting you can see here sends another hose forward to the cam cover vent.   I have a 90 degree elbow-fitting shoved in the cam cover vent hole.  That elbow was slightly loose it that hole, so I added a small piece of heat-shrink tubing to the end and it then fit in the hole nice and snug.

These 5/8 inch nylon T-fittings and Elbow-fittings are cheap and nylon will hold up to high temp conditions.
  If you have any comments or if you can improve this information, please feel free to email.

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