|Yoshifab Catch Can
|UPDATED: February 13, 2019 CONTACT|
M A I N S
covers the installation of my new Yoshifab breather
box (catch can) in my 242 Turbo during the Summer of
As you read this you should know I don't always follow directions and I have been known to ignore sound advice. This install continues with that philosophy.
Yoshifab offers these items in their pages at the following links:
The can is designed with two IN ports, so that you can vent crankcase vapor from two different sources. The illustration also shows the use of a vented oil filler cap and a vent/drain fitting for the block, which are available from Yoshifab.
<<< This is the Yoshifab catch can. The top and side ports are all -10 AN Male thread. The bottom oil drain port is -8 AN Male thread.
This fitting has two ports. The drain port on the left side has a -8 AN Male fitting. The vent port on the right side has a -10 AN Male fitting. If you're not aware, the Volvo engine block has a long plastic tube inside that extends from that drain port down into the oil sump. The bottom of that tube is submerged in the oil. Having this drain extended below the oil level ensures that this pipe drains freely and does not get any interference from crankcase pressures. So basically this system is designed so that when an external catch can is installed, the bottom of the can is to be placed somewhere reasonably close to and above the level of this drain port. This is not always convenient in a Volvo due to tight space, although there are people who have done it that way with good success.
That drain port can be capped off with a -8 AN Female Cap, such as this item from Summit Racing: Earl's -8 AN Cap (AT992908ERL). This is what I used, since my drain is on the other side of the engine.
As you'll see below, I opted to NOT use the drain port on this fitting.
This is not my
I added this pic to show what most people are doing when installing a catch can in a RWD Volvo. You can see here that a Yoshifab catch can has been mounted on the left (intake) side of this engine. It's mounted to a bracket that's attached to the brake booster. That's a good location, except for there being very little space there. Below you'll see I decided to do it differently.
Here's my car. I decided instead to mount the catch can
on the right (exhaust)
side of the engine bay in the back
corner. No, I'm not crazy and yes, it'll
work. My drain to the crankcase will be on the
exhaust side too. Keep reading.
I used are aluminum
mounting brackets for ATV lights. I found them
on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072M59GXX/.
These are made for a 3/4 inch tube (and available
for other sizes). 3/4 inch is the size of the 242 GT
diagonal brace tube I have there.
|<<< My plan routed the catch can drain down into
a Y-fitting that joins with the turbo oil drain just
above the block drain. This Y-fitting
tends to make things a little complicated down there
as you can see here, so some planning was needed for
all these AN hose fittings to fit in a small
space. The turbo oil drain that I previously
installed uses Summit
PTFE lined racing hose, which is a high
temperature hose designed for hot oil (rated to 400
degrees Fahrenheit). So I used the same type
PTFE hose for the catch can. I wanted to use a hose that
was rated for high temperature since this stuff is so close to the exhaust
manifold and turbo.
Here are the connectors used to assemble this
Y-fitting. The Y-fitting has -10 AN male ends. It
uses a reducer to -8 AN for the hose that goes up to the
Not shown here is the turbo oil drain (seen in above photos), which connects to the other upper end of the Y-fitting. That hose uses a short piece of Summit Racing -10 AN PTFE hose (SUM-2201010), one Summit Racing PTFE Hose End -10 AN 90 degrees (SUM-250087B), and one Summit Racing PTFE Hose End -10 Straight (SUM 250090B). Specific detailed information about the turbo drain hose fitting that fits into the block can be found in a separate article HERE.
Assembling PTFE hose ends is not difficult, but you'll need some guidance if it's your first time. There are good instructions here: http://anfittingguide.com/install-ptfe-hose-fittings/.
And a good video below.
|Here's a good video on assembling these
installed a one-way
check valve in the hose between the catch can
and the Y-fitting. It needs to be placed so flow goes
down only. A check valve is used in this situation
because the drain goes into the oil sump above the oil level.
A different option would be if the drain went into the
sump below the oil
level. A check valve WOULD NOT be needed if this
tube drained to a port BELOW the oil level.
You can't see it here, but I used a 45 degree adapter (-8 AN Female to -8 AN Female) between the catch can and the check valve.
Like this one: https://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/AT939208/10002/-1
More detail about the check valve is below.
This is the check valve. It accepts -8 AN fittings on both ends and can be found at Summit Racing here: One-Way Check Valve -8 AN Male (SUM-220193B).
The summit instructions explicitely tell you not to screw with the spring that holds the check-valve closed. I couldn't stop myself. I felt it was too tight, so I tweaked it until it was much easier to push open. I want this to drain freely and not back up into the catch can. I'm pretty confident in my decision.
After several months and a number of hours of driving time, I pulled things apart to inspect and found everything PERFECTLY CLEAN. Things are working well.
Venting through Fuel Pump Opening
Yoshifab offers this adapter plate if you would like to
mount an AN fitting vent to the fuel pump opening in the
engine block. I'm using this opening as one of the
several crankcase vent locations. I am not using
an oil filler cap with a vent fitting, but that
option is also available. This plate has a removable AN
fitting in case you want a different sized fitting on
there. The plate is threaded -10 AN Straight Thread
Female (O-Ring). An o-ring needs to be used to
seal this connection.
<<< The 90 degree fitting I'm using is this one: -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End 90 (SUM-260087B). The barbed end is made for -10 AN Twist-Tite rubber hose, which has a 5/8 inch ID. You can also use Aeroquip Socketless fittings in size -10 AN. Summit Twist-Tite hose is a similar hose (but cheaper) compared to Aeroquip Socketless hose, however the Aeroquip products, particularly the fittings, are considered to be better quality. For a light-duty application like this breather, I didn't consider the higher quality to be critical.
|Since the barb is 5/8 inch
wide, you can use just about any hose with an ID of 5/8
Yoshifab suggests using 5/8 inch PVC clear reinforced flexible tubing as a less expensive option over Socketless or other racing hose. The clear tubing has a fairly high temperature rating (150 degrees Fahrenheit) and since it's transparent, you can see what's going on inside if you're concerned about blockages. I bought some on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRUROKO/
Here's a pic showing the 5/8 inch clear PVC tubing in
use at the catch can. That top port got routed
through the back of the strut tower, then to the front
of the engine bay. It's connected to the intake air tube
between my air fllter and turbo. That is a 150 degree curved fitting
I used on top of the catch can. This one: -10
AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End 150
|<<< Here's a pic of that hose going to my intake tube after the filter and before the turbo.|
The straight fitting closest to the firewall on the
catch can is for the hose going across the cam cover and
then down past the intake manifold to the block breather
vent. This fitting is -10 AN Summit Racing
Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End (SUM-260090B).
The same fitting can be used on the Yoshifab vent plate
that replaces the stock breather box.
The curved fitting furthest from the firewall is a 120 degree curved fitting. That hose goes to a nylon T-fitting near the intake manifold (it can be seen in next pic). This 120 degree fitting is -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End (SUM-260088B).
|<<< Here you can see the hose closest to the
front of the car continues down through the intake
manifold and then turns forward to the fuel pump plate
vent. The tee-fitting you can see here sends another
hose forward to the cam
cover vent. I have a 90 degree
elbow-fitting shoved in the cam cover vent hole.
That elbow was slightly loose it that hole, so I added a
small piece of heat-shrink tubing to the end and it then
fit in the hole nice and snug.
These 5/8 inch nylon T-fittings and Elbow-fittings are cheap and nylon will hold up to high temp conditions.
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