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Looking for the Windshield WIPER Page?  CLICK HERE

Installing a Later 1991-93 Windshield into an early Volvo 240 (or 140).
This is a fairly common 240 mod with a fair amount of info already out there. But since I still get regular questions about this, I decided to post this guide. 

The 240 was built from 1974 (1975 model year) to 1993 and the body design changed very little over the 18 year production run.  The windshield structure had no changes whatsoever between 1974 and 1993.  Even in an earlier 140, the windshield structure is identical to the 240.  You may have noticed that all 1991-93 240s came with a different type of windshield trim than those found on earlier models.  It's all black and made of rubber. No metal trim is used like on earlier 240s.

1975-90 240 (and 140) windshield with metal trim:  This early type of windshield was glued in place using a soft, messy butyl rubber. Plastic trim clips were inserted into the soft rubber to hold the metal trim in place.  This trim tended to stick up from the windshield too far and in many cases it created lots of wind noise.  Thanks go to Ben Buja for supplying this photo.

1991-93 240 windshield with integral rubber trim:  As you can see below, this later type black rubber trim is nearly flush with the body.  The trim is cleaner looking and it can reduce some of the wind noise when compared to older metal trim.

When you purchase a newer 1991+ 240 windshield, it will always come with the black rubber trim already attached around the edge, but it may be different looking on a non-Volvo (non-factory) windshield. 
The rubber trim is also available separately if needed (referenced below).
For a later windshield like this one above, the installer will use a newer style urethane rubber when gluing it in, instead of the soft, gooey, messy butyl rubber used in older installations. 

Here I'll detail are some differences between the LATER trim on a GENUINE VOLVO windshield and many AFTERMARKET ones.
The trim on the GENUINE Volvo windshield is made in two parts.  The glass has a black C-channel that is bonded to the outer edge. The rubber seal or rubber trim is separate on this later windshield. The C-channel can be seen also by itself in this second photo below, where the outer molding has been cut away during windshield removal. It would be possible to use an original Volvo rubber seal IF you could still source the black C-channel. The original rubber seal is still available as Volvo PN 3540053 (like this from iPd), but the C-channel is not, so you would need to improvise that part with some other universal C-channel molding. Using the original Volvo rubber seal without the C-channel would not likely work out well, since it would not cover the edge of the glass.

cheaper aftermarket later windshields will instead have ONE-PIECE universal rubber trim around it. Sometimes this trim comes with a "feature line," which tries to mimic the two-piece look of the original trim.
Be aware that some cheap windshields are coming with narrow 18 mm universal molding. Often that narrow molding will not cover the surrounding area very well, especially if there's a paint line or other imperfection that becomes exposed with a more narrow seal. If this happens, you might ask the shop if you can get or substitute wider molding. Wider molding is available (CLICK HERE).
Most people seem to be happy with 25 mm wide molding, but wider is available.

This photo below is from the 240 windshield re-sealing page found at http://fewstreet.com/2018/06/13/volvo-240-windshield.html.
It details the use of universal trim to reseal a 1989 windshield in a 1989 240.

If you need even wider trim, 31 mm universal molding is available too. This wider 31 mm molding is used in the below DIY installation.
There is one possible problem with a wider seal that can happen. The turns around the corners of the windshield can "pucker." This can effect can be seen in the below photos.  A talented or experienced installer may be able to lessen that.

Otherwise, fitting a later windshield to an earlier 240 (or even a 140) is not a problem at all.  It goes right in with no difference in the installation technique. 
Be aware that there are installers out there who aren't aware that the 240 design never changed in all the years. They may be skeptical about doing this installation on an earlier 240.  Some will even refuse to do such an install because they won't believe you when you insist it fits.  But rest assured, the newer windshield WILL fit.  Many 240 owners have done over the years.
If you want to avoid the argument,
just tell the installer the car is a '91, '92 or '93.

Here's a comment from T.M. of White Marsh, Virginia:  "I took your advice about using a 1991 windshield in my 1987 240 Volvo. Just like you suggested, in your article, I told the installer I needed a 1991 windshield for my car. When I brought my car in, the receptionist goes out and looks at my car's ID tag and sees it's am '87. She freaked out.  She was all like, "it won't fit", "I won't give you a warranty," and if I insisted on putting this windshield in the car I would be responsible when it all went wrong.  I told this receptionist that it would fit, it would be easier for the workers to install, it would look just fine, and that she already told me I wouldn't have a warranty anyway, because she said I had rust in the channel. So what is the difference?  She got all huffy when I told the installers to proceed anyway and to ignore her.  She was in a bigger snit when she saw that it fit and looked just fine too. There was NO rust in the channel, but I didn't really care about her silly warranty anyway."

"You were totally right, the wind noise is much less, and the installation was so much cleaner. I'm glad I took your advice everything is great; not original, but actually better. One freaked out receptionist, two satisfied installers, one happy customer, and one slightly improved Volvo.  A good day was had by most of us anyway.  I don't think the receptionist is ever going to forgive me for "lying" to her about the year and having it all work out just fine. lol."

Here's a discussion of different available windshield brands: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=342415

In 2018 Michael Yount did his own installation of a later windshield in his 1982 242. 
He has provided the following tips below for those thinking of doing this yourself.

He refers to this thread in his tips, which has some photos: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=341873

1.  Removing the old black butyl makes a helluva mess.  I masked completely up each A-pillar, across the top of the car and entire cowl including covering all the cowl vent holes.  Debris can and will get EVERYWHERE.  Butyl comes off of paint easy.  If you get it on fabric or carpet - forget it.  You won't get it out.  So cover everything.  I had towels over the dash, steering wheel, front seats, floors.  And a couple of big blankets over the entire hood as we repeatedly lifted the old/new windshield over the hood of the car.

2.  I bought two double-suction-cup handles from Harbor Freight.  Worked well for the old/new windshield.  One person can remove the old one.  You should have a helper for installing a new one.

3.  Do your best to cut the old butyl all the way around before attempting to remove the old windshield.  If the old windshield is cracked or you're not trying to salvage it - just getting the A-pillars and top edge loose will do - then just pull it away or push from inside.  The old windshields are notably heavier/thicker than the new ones.

4.  CLEAN: Your pinch weld should be completely clean - all you should see is paint.

5.  You'll see in the above thread what I did to remove the old butyl and clean the pinch weld. Citrus Power Goo Gone.

6.  If you use guitar/safety/piano wire as a cutter like I did, it will try to hang up on the old plastic clips attached to the old windshield that hold the trim on.  I strongly suggest removing the stock trim so you can see where the old clips are and navigate around them with the wire OR use a screw driver to pry out the clips.

  7.  The new later style windshield comes with rubber trim molding glued around the edge.  The width of that trim is usually about 25 mm (similar to T108 universal "T" molding).  In my case that trim was not wide enough to cover the re-paint line that existed because my car was repainted with the old windshield in place. I bought new wider trim molding, T109B universal "T" molding, 31 mm wide.  It comes in a 65 foot roll and can be found at Gold Glass: https://www.gggcorp.com/Universal_Mouldings.html.  The direct link to the T109B 31 mm molding is: https://www.gggcorp.com/Universal_Mouldings.html#OriginalT.

8.  If you change that rubber trim molding on your new windshield, take your time removing the molding that is glued on. Mine had butyl in the U-channel - I used duct tape (the sticky side) to remove the leftover butyl from the edge of the windshield before I put the new wider trim on.  Then I cleaned with Prepsol.

9.   Use a square to get an accurate 90 degree cut on the end of the new rubber trim molding so you're staring with a 90 degree cut edge.  Measure the windshield to find the precise center at the bottom and start the new trim there.  Work your way all the way around.  It helps to have another person managing the trim as you go.  I used a small wooden roller to firmly press the trim onto the edge of the windshield so the butyl inside the u-channel sticks to the windshield.  When you get back around to the bottom center, make a quick cut so you have about 1 inch extra.  Then CAREFULLY measure and accurately make a square cut to match the other side of the trim.  I cut it about 1/16 inch LONGER than needed and then I squeezed that little extra back in along the bottom edge.  YOU ONLY GET ONE CHANCE ON THAT SECOND CUT -- IF YOU CUT IT TOO SHORT, DO NOT TRY TO STRETCH IT.  You'll be better off leaving a small gap and trying to fill it with black silicone or something.  Mine matched up perfect by cutting it just a hair long.

10.  There were some foam pads that came stuck to the windshield to protect it during shipping. I used those for my windshield SPACER BLOCKS during installation.  One on each side of each A-pillar and two on the bottom (one on each side).  I used 3M extreme duty double sided foam tape to adhere the spacer blocks to the channel.  The butyl seal stays soft -- so you must use spacer blocks at the bottom to keep the windshield from slowly sliding DOWN over time.  The spacer blocks on the side will keep it centered.  I liked the spacer blocks I made MUCH better than the stock Volvo spacer blocks or the rubber ones that came with the butyl seal kit.

11. Test fit the new windshield once the new seal is attached but BEFORE you prime the pinch weld or apply the primer to the windshield.  The more times you test fit it, the easier it will be to accurately stick the windshield correctly on the last fit.

12.  I used a butyl primer on the pinch weld and on the windshield edge. 3M 08681 Primer will work.

13.  Ebay or Amazon Butyl Ribbon Seal Kit. (3M 08612 Window-Weld, 3/8 inch wide, 15 feet long).  As you lay it along the pinch weld, you have to remove the paper tape to turn the sharp corners.  I then put the tape back on and I used the roller to GENTLY apply a bit of downward pressure before I place the windshield on.

14.  Once primed and with the butyl seal in place, on the pinch weld, then you can finally place and stick the windshield. 
But FIRST, fold the rubber trim at the corners up and AWAY from the body, BEFORE sticking the windshield.
As soon as you stick the windshield, check to be sure it's being held in place (not sliding downward) by the bottom spacer blocks and it is centered between the side blocks. 
Once in place and you're happy with the position, then fold the trim corners down over the body.  Work your way around the trim, applying pressure all the way around the perimeter of the windshield several times to be sure the windshield is pressed cleanly against the butyl and the butyl is pressed cleanly against the pinch weld. This will ensure a good seal.

15.  Cross your fingers and check for leaks after it's been there for a few days.


More good info HERE:

<<<  Side note regarding 140 series back glass:  This photo was submitted by Johnny J. of Sparks, Nevada. His 1973 142 needed a new rear windshield, which was obsolete. So he took a chance on a rear glass from a 1990 244. The glass fits perfectly and wire connectors even line up perfectly for the defrost element. And the newer rubber seal from the 1990 glass went right in. So this shows that any 240 back glass will perfectly replace the back glass in a 140 series in case you need to know.


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