| VOLVO 240 Instrument Cluster and Gauge Electrical Stuff |
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Updated: November 11, 2021 CONTACT |
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| Early 240 R Sport Gauges |
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 <<< Here's a diagram (PAGE 1) showing the pin-outs for the 240 R-Sport instrument cluster. This cluster uses a cable type speedometer.Some of the pins in these images are noted with "Pos" or "Neg." These notations refer to the circuit polarity going to the lamps related to those circuits. For example, Pin 31/2 supplies a signal to the Brake Failure Lamp. That signal is a GROUND (Neg), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a power circuit supplied by the circuit board, which originates through Pin 32/2. Another example: Pin 31/12 supplies a signal to the OD Lamp. This signal is POSITIVE (12v), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a GROUND supplied by the circuit board, supplied through Pin 32/A. |
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 <<< Here's PAGE 2 of the R-Sport cluster diagram. |
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| 1977-78 240 Gauge Assembly | ||
 <<< Here's a diagram showing the pin-outs for the 1977-78 240 instrument cluster. This cluster uses a cable type speedometer.Some of the pins in these images are noted with "Pos" or "Neg." These notations refer to the circuit polarity going to the lamps related to those circuits. For example, Pin 31/2 supplies a signal to the Brake Failure Lamp. That signal is a GROUND (Neg), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a power circuit supplied by the circuit board, which originates through Pin 32/2. Another example: Pin 31/12 supplies a signal to the OD Lamp. This signal is POSITIVE (12v), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a GROUND supplied by the circuit board, supplied through Pin 32/A. |
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| 1980 240 Gauge Assembly | ||
 <<< Here's a diagram showing the pin-outs for the 1980 240 instrument cluster. This cluster uses a cable type speedometer.Some of the pins in these images are noted with "Pos" or "Neg." These notations refer to the circuit polarity going to the lamps related to those circuits. For example, Pin 31/2 supplies a signal to the Brake Failure Lamp. That signal is a GROUND (Neg), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a power circuit supplied by the circuit board, which originates through Pin 32/2. Another example: Pin 31/12 supplies a signal to the OD Lamp. This signal is POSITIVE (12v), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a GROUND supplied by the circuit board, supplied through Pin 32/A. |
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| 1984 240 Gauge Assembly | ||
 <<< Here's a diagram showing the pin-outs for the 1984 240 instrument cluster. This cluster uses a cable type speedometer.Some of the pins in these images are noted with "Pos" or "Neg." These notations refer to the circuit polarity going to the lamps related to those circuits. For example, Pin 31/1 supplies a signal to the Brake Failure Lamp. That signal is a GROUND (Neg), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a power circuit supplied by the circuit board, which originates through Pin 32/A. Another example: Pin 31/4 supplies a signal to the OD Lamp (for M46). This signal is POSITIVE (12v), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a GROUND supplied by the circuit board, supplied through Pin 32/4. Automatic Transmissions: An automatic transmission car will not have a terminal in round plug Pin 31/4 (M46 overdrive lamp). So if you're converting a car from auto transmission to an M46 manual, you'll need to add a 2 mm female terminal to pin 31/4. Also you should remove the terminal from Pin 34, which powers the "OD OFF" lamp used for the automatic transmission OD light. |
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| 1987 240 Gauge Assembly | ||
 <<< Here's a diagram showing the pin-outs for the 1987 240 instrument cluster. This cluster uses an electronic speedometer.Some of the pins in these images are noted with "Pos" or "Neg." These notations refer to the circuit polarity going to the lamps related to those circuits. For example, Pin 31/1 supplies a signal to the Brake Failure Lamp. That signal is a GROUND (Neg), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a power circuit supplied by the circuit board, which originates through Pin 32/A. Another example: Pin 31/4 supplies a signal to the OD Lamp (for M46). This signal is POSITIVE (12v), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a GROUND supplied by the circuit board, supplied through Pin 32/4. Automatic Transmissions: An automatic transmission car will NOT have a terminal in the round plug Pin 31/4 (M46 overdrive lamp). So if you're converting a car from auto transmission to an M46 manual, you'll need to add a 2 mm female terminal to pin 31/4. Also be sure to remove the terminal from Pin 34, which powers the "OD OFF" lamp used for the automatic transmission OD light. Beginning in 1988 Volvo began using the M47 transmission for manual 240s. In 1989, the traditional OD lamp to the left of the reset button became a "5" lamp, at least in clusters with the K10042 speedometer. |
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| 1990 240 Gauge Assembly | ||
 <<< Here's a diagram showing the pin-outs for the 1990 240 instrument cluster. This cluster uses an electronic speedometer and is for an ABS or non-ABS car.Some of the pins in these images are noted with "Pos" or "Neg." These notations refer to the circuit polarity going to the lamps related to those circuits. For example, Pin 31/1 supplies a signal to the Brake Failure Lamp. That signal is a GROUND (Neg), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a power circuit supplied by the circuit board, which originates through Pin 32/A. Note regarding Speedometer circuits in ABS versus non-ABS cars: Keep in mind that the 3-pole speedometer plug (233) wire order changes from an ABS car to a non-ABS car. Pin 2 will always be the BLACK wire, but pins 1 and 3 (VSS wires to to the differential) will be swapped. The wire order shown in this diagram is for an ABS car. NOTE regarding using an M46: This later cluster does not have an M46 OD lamp, since that lamp position was replaced by an SRS lamp beginning in 1990. The M47 5-speed was common in manual transmission 240s from at least 1988. The M46 was still used in 700 turbo models and 16 valve models through 1990, because it was a stronger transmission than the M47. The M46 was obsolete in all cars by 1991. If an M46 OD light is needed on this 1990 cluster, you may try reworking the OD arrow lamp (auto trans) in this cluster. Otherwise some custom work may need to be done to add a traditional OD lamp. |
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| 1993 240 Gauge Assembly | ||
 <<< Here's a diagram showing the pin-outs for the 1993 240 instrument cluster. This cluster uses an electronic speedometer and is for an ABS car.Some of the pins in these images are noted with "Pos" or "Neg." These notations refer to the circuit polarity going to the lamps related to those circuits. For example, Pin 31/1 supplies a signal to the Brake Fluid Level Lamp. That signal is a GROUND (Neg), which completes the circuit for that bulb, since it already has a power circuit supplied by the circuit board, which originates through Pin 32/A. Note regarding Speedometer circuits in ABS versus non-ABS cars: Keep in mind that the 3-pole speedometer plug (233) wire order changes from an ABS car to a non-ABS car. Pin 2 will always be the BLACK wire, but pins 1 and 3 (VSS wires to to the differential) will be swapped. The wire order shown in this diagram is for an ABS car. NOTE regarding using an M46: This later cluster does not have an M46 OD lamp, since that lamp position was replaced by an SRS lamp beginning in 1990. The M47 5-speed was common in manual transmission 240s from at least 1988. The M46 was still used in 700 turbo models and 16 valve models through 1990, because it was a stronger transmission than the M47. The M46 was obsolete in all cars by 1991. If an M46 OD light is needed on this 1990 cluster, you may try reworking the OD arrow lamp (auto trans) in this cluster. Otherwise some custom work may need to be done to add a traditional OD lamp. Here is some info submitted by a customer who modified his late 240 cluster: https://www.prancingmoose.com/WhiteFaceGaugesStyle5.html#clustermod |
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| Instrument Voltage Regulator |
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below voltage regulator is in place to stabilize voltage to the dash
temperature gauge. It should provide a consistent 10v for proper temp
gauge reading. The original VR is an ITT TCA700Y, which is pretty scarce, so a suitable replacement has been found to be the below 7810 10v voltage regulator. Some photos taken from page 1 of: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=310632 While measuring his cluster original VR output, the writer discovered that it stabilized the voltage correctly at 10v only when input was below 11.9v. Above 11.9v the output began to increase above the required 10 volts (i.e.: increasing to between 11 and 12v when input was 13.5-14.5v. It should stay stable at 10 volts. To correct this, the VR was replaced with a new 7810 voltage regulator. Please note that the new 7810 must be mounted upside down, since its outer pins are reversed compared to the old regulator. The only other modification needed is bending the 7810 pins a bit and maybe a little grinding or trimming of the metal bracket that it mounts to. The regulator mounting looks like this below on 1986 and later clusters.  The original regulator looks like this below on 1981-85 clusters. Reversing the outer pins is required on this cluster as well.  MORE INFO: http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=351447 http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=5290001 |
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| Temperature Compensation Board Bypass or other fixes for your 1986-93 240 gauge cluster. |
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 To make customers happy, for the 1986 year model Volvo began installing a special circuit board in the instrument cluster that changed the function of the coolant temperature gauge so that it would remain stable in the middle or "normal" range at all times unless the engine was very cold or very hot. The gauge then had only a few set readings instead of a true variable reading. Customers were happier. These temperature compensation boards generally worked fine until they got old and began failing. A failing board would cause mysterious high or low fluctuations for no reason. If you're trying to determine what your high or low temperature fluctuations REALLY mean, you can buy an infrared (IR) temperature reader and check your top radiator hose temps for abnormal changes. If you find that temperatures are actually pretty stable, then your temperature compensation board may be failing. |
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At this writing these boards can still be found new, however they're expensive. iPd has them here: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5671/107045-instrumentation-voltage-stabilizer-compensator-board
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You can also read the following instructions for
your own DIY Compensation Board Bypass . . . ARTICLE HERE: https://cleanflametrap.com/tempFaker.html
And if your interested in more DIY repair, Peter A. submitted the following: "The circuit is kind of clever. It can be repaired rather than just eliminating it. It does require a soldering iron and a solder sucker to desolder the old parts. Pretty much the only things that will fail is the integrated circuit U1 or output transistor Q1, both of which can be purchased on-line from Digikey or similar places for about a dollar. U1 was bad on my board. After 25 plus years it would also be wise to replace the electrolytic capacitor C1." Click here for a PDF diagram and photo of these circuits: https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/TempBoardCircuits.pdf (270kb) And Dirk W. submitted the following for those interested: "Lots of people will claim you need a new temperature compensation board (PCB), but that's not what's really wrong most of the time. I have found that the metal pins that are mounted to the main cluster PCB are generally not properly soldered to the PCB. They APPEAR to be soldered, but if you touch a soldering iron to the solder blobs that cover the heads of the pins, you will find that the solder is not wetted to the pin heads and these connections are almost always bad somewhere. A little work with some sandpaper on the heads of the pins and resoldering the heads of the pins to the PCB will fix most temperature gauge issues." |
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| 240 Electric Speedometer Custom Re-Calibration | ||
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(Applies
to 1986 and later 240 models. 700/900
models too)
This information has been compiled
from discussion threads in Turbobricks, Brickboard and from customer
contributions. It's a relatively simple mod, but
some clarification was needed to make it
simple for the rest of us. Using modern
electronics, you may add a variable
trimpot (rheostat) to alter or adjust the
signal the speedometer receives from the
vehicle speed sensor (VSS) in the rear axle.
First thing you'll need to do is
disassemble your instrument cluster and
remove your speedometer. If you
don't know how, instructions for that can
be found in my 240 Odometer
Repair Page.
  Depending on the year of your 240, you'll see a resistor like one of these two photos above. That is the calibration resistor. It is static (or non-adjustable). It was installed by Volvo to alter the speed signal for the specific speedometer and tire size they selected for your car. The original resistor has been measured by others at around 51 to 56 ohms. By changing the value of that resistor, you can change the speed signal received by the speedometer. Some have installed different static resistors to reset their calibration. A few have installed variable resistors so the calibration can be fine tuned when driving. That's what this article is about. 1. Using a soldering iron, heat the solder behind the original resistor and remove it. Simple task. |
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2. Next
insert a stripped wire into each hole and solder
them on the back so they're secure. You may use
18 to 22 gauge wire or smaller. If the
holes need to be opened up a little, use a very small
drill to do that, then solder.
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3. Here is
an example of a 100 ohm variable resistor
(adjustable between zero and 100 ohms). A
"linear" type is preferred. These can be
found on eBay or Amazon and are very cheap (usually made
in China). Often they're offered in lots of 5 or
10 for under $10. Feel free to put an ohm
meter on it and find the two pins needed for the
wire hookups. Polarity is not
important. While you're at it, set it
somewhere in the middle (50-55 ohms).
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A customer sent this pic below.
He mounted the variable resistor behind the hole formerly occupied by the clock adjuster. This way he could tune it easily after the dash was assembled and it looks very clean. There's no need to get this fancy if you don't want to. The resistor can also be put under the dash or anywhere within reach depending on wire length.  If you can offer any new information or better ideas for this mod, please email. |
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| Resources for more info:
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/853622 https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=239021 https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=258248 |
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| Adding a Large Tachometer to your 240 | ||
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This is the very first modification I did to a 240 back in 1990. It's a very basic
install, but can be a bit puzzling for a beginner. These
instructions will also show you how the small clock is
installed.
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| Adding a SMALL Tachometer to your 240 | ||
| While less popular than adding a large tachometer to
your gauge cluster, Volvo made a small 52 mm tachometer
available for 240 owners. They are fairly rare to find these days, but they can still be found used. Here are diagrams for wiring it up. CLICK HERE FOR INSTRUCTIONS (pdf)  |
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| Adding an Ambient Temperature Gauge | ||
| This should help if you're installing one of these. |
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| Repairing a Dead 52 mm VDO Clock | ||
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If
you have a dead small clock like this, you can repair
it.
There are two small capacitors inside that usually fail after many years. They're cheap to buy and fixing is easy.
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| Improving the Lighting in Clocks and other 240 Gauges | ||
| DIMMER RHEOSTAT BYPASS I did this simple mod years ago and have been happy with it ever since. If you have weak, dim dash lights in your 240, even when the dimmer switch is turned to full brightness, you should know the 240 dimmer switch will not provide full power to the bulbs, even at the full brightness setting. If you want to verify this, hook up an Ohm meter and check the resistance and you'll find that the dimmer supplies significantly less current at full brightness than if the lights were simply wired to battery power. You can bypass the dimmer and then your dash lights will either be off or full bright. All you need to do is bridge the two connections on the back of the dimmer (see pic below). If you're not sure if this is right for your car, try it temporarily are see how you like it. You'll find that after bypassing the dimmer, all of the gauge and dash lights will be brighter. You'll just need to decide if using that dimmer switch is worth having weaker dash lights. Access to the back of the dimmer can be done by removing the main instrument cluster and then you can reach in and do your work. |
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| Those two .250 inch female terminals on the back of the rheostat can be unplugged and then bridged together. A simple way to do that is using a double male .250 inch connector or a couple .250 inch male push-on terminals with a wire crimped between them. Just about the easiest mod ever. Just make sure they're insulated from accidentally touching other metal somewhere or you'll blow a fuse. |
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| LED CLOCK BULB You can replace the bulb in your clock with an LED bulb. The bulb is found in this black plastic bulb holder on the back side. In this instance there is only one wire going to the bulb. That's the power wire. The bulb is grounded through the clock metal case. So when you're testing a bulb in a clock like this, be sure to ground the case (the ground wire is the black wire seen below that's connected to a tab on the case). |
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Here's the standard bulb found in the above clock. It's known as a WEDGE base bulb. This particular bulb may be known as: T5, 74, or Osram 2721. The Volvo parts catalog identifies it as PN 942327-8, 966326-1 or W2X4.6D. It is typically rated at 1.2 watts. This bulb is also used in the 240 main gauge cluster in the row of warning lamps. The above bulb is very similar and may be interchanged with PN 19923-2, AKA: BA7S (rated at 2 watts), which is found in some other 52 mm gauges and also used in various places in the dash center console for illumination. These bulbs above are NOT the same as the larger bulbs used to illuminate the 240 main gauge cluster (below photo). This larger bulb is PN 942571, AKA: W2,1X9.5D (rated at 3 watts) or PN 1259950-2, AKA: W2,1X9.5D (2 watts).  All WEDGE BASE bulbs simply pull out of the plastic bulb holder. If it's stuck, it's from years of corrosion and it just needs more force to pull it out. If this happens, you might wear gloves, because you might break the bulb and cut yourself. |
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LED CLOCK BULB Here's a comparison test below for an LED bulb I picked up on line for the clock. The photo with the brighter LED bulb is pretty easy to spot below. Keep in mind that LED bulbs are polarity specific, so if you plug one in like this one and it doesn't work, try pulling it out, turning it 180 degrees and plugging in again. |
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| Your
results may vary. Some cheap Chinese LED bulbs have crappy
quality and
it's hard to know what's good and what's not until you try it. Sometimes
you can read Amazon reviews if you think they're trustworthy. I've
tried LED bulbs for a few various places in 240s and some worked well
and
some have died quickly. The LED bulb used above is found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0798R76CR/ |
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Here are some more links for useful info on this subject: http://www.turbobricks.net/forums/showthread.php?t=148807 |
