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240 Big Brakes

     UPDATED: May 21, 2021                      CONTACT       
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This page illustrates some pretty cool brake upgrades for the Volvo 240.
Hopefully it helps you if you decide to do something similar. 
If you have done something like this for your 240, I would really like to hear about it and see some photos.
Here's a really good video for a beginner on flaring your own brake pipes.

Some good DIY brake discussions:

Before the Big Brakes on my 245: 

I owned my '84 245 Turbo for 6 years before doing the big R-caliper modification you see below.  I had plenty of experience with stock 240 brakes and pads and lots of experience trying different things to improve them.  Stock 240 brakes are OK for most "normal" driving.  In my opinion they are really not good enough in original condition for track or high-performance driving.

I was already a customer of IPD, so naturally I tried some of their brake pads over the years.  I tried the PBR Deluxe first. I discovered they had a very bad tendency to fade after a few hard stops.  The fade wasn't subtle... it was really bad.  The braking came back once things cooled down.  The PBR Deluxes are really good when cold... lots of bite, and very little brake dust.  Just don't expect much out of them after when hot hard stops.

Then I tried a set of PBR Metalmasters.  These pads are designed for much heavier use.  I never got them to fade, but the cold stopping was not very good at all.  One time while on the freeway during a long road-trip (I hadn't touched the brakes in a while, so they were c-c-cold), all the traffic in front of me came to really quick STOP.  I hit the brakes and found I had very little braking power.  I mashed the brake pedal using every bit of strength I had and I baaaaaarely stopped just a few inches from the car in front. 
Metalmasters went in the TRASH as soon as I got home! 

A friend and fellow 240 owner, Clay Dewan, suggested the Mintex (red box) pads in the photo to the right.  I was a skeptic, since they were really inexpensive and Mintex was not a name I knew at the time.  But I tried a set and absolutely fell in love with them.  They had great cold and WET stopping. And they held the braking power when really hot too.  I used Mintex pads for several years and also during a number of track days at Thunderhill Raceway. I even boiled my brake fluid at the track and later changed to higher-temp DOT 4 brake fluid. The Mintex pads never failed me.  I highly recommend them for your 240 if you can find them.  These used to be available lots of places in the U.S.A, but now It seems these Mintex pads are either no longer available or hard to find (at least for a 240).

Volvo 240 4-piston Calipers:
     Front caliper: 38 mm pistons 1976-1993 in Girling or ATE versions.
M10 x 1.0 bubble flare brake line union ports.
      (Beware of early version calipers made for thinner SOLID rotors).

Volvo 240 Brake Rotors:
     FRONT (early):
14.3 mm thick solid rotor. 263 mm diameter. PN 270737-0.
     FRONT (late):   24 mm thick VENTED rotor. 263 mm diameter. PN 270739-6.
     REAR:  9.6 mm thick solid rotor. 281 mm diameter. PN 270736-2.

Volvo 240 Master Cylinder: M10 x 1.0 bubble flare brake line union ports.
     Non-ABS master cylinder has STEPPED bores: 22.3 mm primary (rear bore), 15.75 mm secondary (front bore).
ABS master cylinder has STEPPED bores: 22.3 mm primary (rear bore), 19 mm secondary (front bore).
Master Cylinder Part Numbers:
     8111005-8: 240 non-ABS Brake line ports on left.
     8111006-6: 240 non-ABS Brake line ports on right.
     3530972, 8251131, 8602015:    240 with ABS.

Here's a good discussion thread on available performance brakes pads for 240s:

Disassembling or Rebuilding a Brake Caliper
Pretty good general video (non-Volvo).

Pretty good video on disassembling a 240 front caliper. This person is discussing a modification of the caliper to change from dual circuit to single circuit front brakes.


240 BIG BRAKES: Chapter 1

I began this project in December 2003 when I purchased a set of new S60R front calipers and rotors (for 2004 and later S60R). 

My original plan was to design a caliper bracket to fit these calipers on the front of my 245.  Before I got very far, I received an email from Travis Kijowski of Strictly Volvo Racing (SVR) in Maryland. He was already in the process of developing an aluminum bracket for these calipers to fit a 240 strut housing, which he would later adapt for his 940.   

My original plan was to have a 2-piece rotor set made using Wilwood hats and rotors, or something like that.  But when I found out about the SVR brackets, which could use the stock R rotors and bolt right up to the 240 with no modifications needed, I put off the idea of custom rotors for a while and bought a set of S60 R calipers to save some time and money.
I completed this project in March 2004 and it turned out to be one of the best mods ever. 

The R caliper is an aluminum 4-piston type made for Volvo by Brembo.  The caliper weighs 7 lbs. 6 oz. (about 3.3 kg). 
This caliper has 4 pistons. Two are 42 mm diameter and two are 38 mm diameter.
The piston area used by these calipers is not much more than the factory Girling 240 front caliper, which has four 38 mm pistons.
Upgrading to a master cylinder with more volume or larger pistons is not necessary.
This installation used the stock 240 master cylinder.

The rotor (also made by Brembo) is 13 inches (330.2 mm) x 1.25 inch (32 mm). 
Quite a bit larger than the original 10 inch brakes on the 240.  The rotor weighs approximately 20 lbs (about 9 kg).  I had the slots shown below
custom machined at the cost of about $25 per rotor. 

(BELOW PHOTOS) The photo on the left is the original brakes on my 245... stock rotors (except for custom drilling or slotting).  
The right side photo shows the R brakes after installation.  I was pretty amazed about the rotors going on with no mods. 


This natural aluminum bracket is the first prototype bracket. It allowed the R calipers to bolt to the 240 struts tubes with no other mods.  The later versions were black anodized with laser-etched "SVR." 
These brackets weighed in at 15 oz. each (about 425 grams).  

UPDATE November 2008:  These brackets became no longer available from the above source. 
New sources may be found in my Cool Volvo Products Page.

Lots of detailed info has now been written by other people about this conversion over years and can be found in the Turbobricks Forum (https://forums.turbobricks.com/) and at the below links specifically (among others):  

The brackets from SVR were designed to allow the R caliper to be mounted in almost the same place as the stock caliper.   You can see in this pic how the R caliper is moved outboard (away from the strut tube).  This was necessary so it correctly fit the position of the R rotor, which is set further outboard than the 240 rotor. 

To put this in perspective, when measuring from the (pad) surface of the rotor, the R rotor will be about 5/8 inch (about 16 mm) more outboard than a stock 240 rotor.  
The outside face of the larger R caliper will be about 24mm (just under an inch) further outboard than a stock 240 caliper.

The stock sheet metal brake backing plates were useless for this upgrade and went in the trash.

Notice that you only need ONE brake line per wheel instead of two brake lines as my car originally had.

The front R CALIPERS are Volvo PN 8602682 and 8602683
The front R ROTORS are Volvo PN 30645222 (same left or right). 
I had the grooves custom cut.

The SPRING CLIPS/RETAINERS are Volvo PN 30645137 (2 sets required).

OEM front brake pads are PN 30645135 or 30748957. I opted for EBC Green Stuff pads on front, PN DP21210

Minimum of Grade 10.9 hex head or 12.9 black socket head is recommended.

Metric Bolt 12 x 1.75 mm x 40 mm (4 required)

Metric Bolt 12 x 1.75 mm x 60 mm (4 required)
Hardened 12 mm washers recommended (8 needed)

Brake Junction Block Plugs (pictured at right), Volvo PN 1387506 (2 required) about $4 each.

You'll notice two new metal hard brake lines in the picture of parts.  These hard lines were used to replace the original hard lines going from the calipers to the flexible lines (I already had stainless front flex lines that I bought from iPd years before, so I used one of those for each side).  The old original metal hard lines can be re-used, but I find the brass fittings often seize at the calipers or at the flex line after many years, so I decided to buy new ones.  I got them from FCP Groton at https://www.fcpgroton.com/They're part number AA0320 (2 required).


The 240 non-ABS brake junction block shown here has 8 ports. This first photo illustrates the original 240 brake line
configuration when using the original 240 front caliper in my '84 240, which originally used two brake lines per front caliperThe front Brembo R calipers use only one line per caliper.  For this conversion, two of the front caliper ports on the junction block will need to be plugged.

This is how I originally did this back in 2004 when installing these 'R' brakes on my '84 245. 
As you can see, I simply removed one front brake line from the right side and one from the left. Then I plugged the two empty holes.

This method worked fine for years, however I received some grief from a few 240 enthusiasts who felt it was unsafe. They felt that if one front caliper suddenly lost pressure, hitting the brakes would shoot the car off to the right or left out of control.  I suppose it's possible, so if you try something like this, be aware.

Jacob (Porsche Cayenne calipers) used and recommends this method in his brake kit instructions.  As far as I know so far, no one has done it differently and this conversion has been done MANY TIMES over the years.

MODIFIED ALTERNATE 1A (photo not shown): 
If you're OK with Alternate 1, but are shaking in your booties about the potential problem mentioned above, this may be a solution.  This method uses the same configuration shown in Alternate 1, except for one change.  As shown in Alternate 3, remove the inner piston assembly. This will convert the two-chamber junction block into a one-chamber block.  Any fear of the car shooting off left or right should be gone now.  Be aware that if you lose pressure now, you just lose all brakes.  So choose your poison. 
I have not tried this method and to my knowledge no one else has either.

Plastic Sender:
 If you remove the inner piston, I think it might be a good idea to remove the plastic sender and plug that hole with a metal plug.  The internal pressures may be too much for the plastic sender after removing that piston assembly. Not sure. Just saying

More on this is discussed a little bit below.

This is how it was recommended to me by some people who had were scared of Alternate 1.  If you choose to do it this way, you will need to either bend the existing brake lines to fit (if it's possible) or make new ones.  This is very similar to how the ABS cars were plumbed.  Keep in mind that if you're using a non-ABS master cylinder, the fluid volume coming from the front and rear ports might be different, since the front port comes from a 15.75 mm piston and the rear port gets fed by a 22.3 mm piston. 

I have not tried this method and I don't know if anyone has, including the people who recommended it. 

The safety aspect is as follows:  If pressure is lost somewhere, then you will lose either front brakes or rear brakes, but not all of them at once.

I would certainly appreciate some feedback if you have done an R brake conversion.  What method did you use?

This is a proposal for those of you who would choose Alternate 2, but would like to eliminate any problem mentioned above. 

I have not tried this method and to my knowledge no one else has either.

That inner piston separates the two chambers, but is designed to freely move forward or rearward depending on brake pressure differentials.  By removing the piston, the junction block is converted to a one-chamber block, instead of two.  Be aware that having a one-chamber junction block means that if any part of the brake system looses pressure, then all of it will. 

Plastic Sender:
If you remove the inner piston, I think it might be a good idea to eliminate the plastic sender.  There's a lot of pressure in there and I don't know if trusting a plastic sender is the best idea.  The thread for this port is M12 x 1.0.  There are fittings available with M12 x 1.0 thread, but all I have found so far are JIC or AN fittings with a flared sealing end.  If you look under that white plastic piece inside the port, it's just a flat bottom with a small hole in the center, so a flared fitting will not seal there.  There is, however, a chamfer for an o-ring, which is what the factory sender uses to seal. So I think there is a good chance of creating a seal using a M12 x 1.0 o-ring fitting. 

If you do something like this with your project, please email me. I'd like to know.

If you want a brake junction block without the warning sender, look for Volvo PN 3540084 from a 1991 240.  It will operate as two separate junction blocks with no shared internal port.

WHEEL SIZE IS CRITICAL with these brakes: 
When planning an upgrade
like this it is very important to carefully consider the need for larger wheels AND more room to the outside of the original brakes.  As far as wheel diameter, if you use these 13 inch rotors, there are some 17 inch wheels that still will not clear.  The wheel shown in these pics are 18 inch. 

So far I know the 17 inch Volvo R wheels will clear just fine and I have been told the Volvo Tethys also. Both are FWD type wheels and will need custom spacers to fit a 240 properly.

The popular Eiker (Polaris replica) is 17 inches and WILL NOT fit as the caliper hits the inner wheel barrel.

The outside surface of the new, larger R caliper will be further outboard (in the direction of the wheel spokes).  My measurements show them to be about 24 mm further outboard when compared to the stock 240 caliper.  So if your wheel spokes are already close to your original front calipers, you will either need new wheels or some wheel spacers to move them outward.  Many more discussions from others who have worked out this installation can be found in the Turbobricks forum.

For braking to be effective when you get near the limit, you need a pretty good balance between the front and rear.  If any brakes begin to prematurely lock up, it is preferred for the front brakes to lock just slightly before the rear brakes.  When I tested these brakes initially with no adjustments or changes to the front/rear bias (which included a track day at Thunderhill Raceway in May 2004),  I found the front brakes had a little too much strength and would easily lock if I wasn't careful.  This required some concentration and discipline at track speeds.  I found if I was gentle on the pedal I could prevent it, but still it needed to be improved.  For a better balanced setup out of the box, I suppose anti-lock brakes work nice at leveling things, but adding ABS to my 240 wasn't an option I wanted. 

If I were to use dual master cylinders with a balance bar, the imbalance could have been solved with an easy adjustment, except it would have been expensive and it would eliminate the power assist.  My first thought was to remove the rear brake reduction valves (to increase rear brake bias) and then install a custom single rear line with an adjustable proportion valve to regulate rear pressure.  So I did the first step and removed the rear reduction valves. 

After the reduction valves were removed, I needed some way to re-connect the brake lines and found that a standard early 1980's 240 junction block (shown in photo) worked perfectly in place of the reduction valves.  It fits like it could have been made to go there.  Four of the open ports on the block needed to be plugged (so four more brass plugs were needed).

After testing the brakes without the rear reduction valves, I discovered the front/rear bias was nearly perfect for a wagon.  Much better than expected.   I now have a very nice front/rear balance which takes full advantage of the improved brake system.  Much stronger front brakes (because they're so damn big) and stronger rear brakes also (since removing the reduction valves).

So now we know this can work for a 245.  What about a 242? 
....After Doug Kauer (Hank Sporpio) did his R brake install on his 242, he then tried this method above and found the result to be perfect for his car: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=22183.

Yes, many mods like these can be considered amateur, but many Volvo owners have greatly improved the performance of their cars over the years through such experiments.  This isn't the end-all solution and it might not be for you, but for the money, it was one of the best modifications I have ever done to any Volvo.  I want to thank Travis Kijowski at Strictly Volvo Racing for designing and producing the caliper brackets.  They turned out very nice. 

If you do a mod like this (or do it differently), I would like to hear about your results.

Experimentation is the key to improving modifications.
Here is an R caliper installation that was done a little differently and the results.
-from Matt Dupuis (added 07-16-06)

Here's some feedback on my conversion, and what I've done differently than (I think) everyone else:

The piston dimensions on the S60R calipers when mounted on a P2 car (S60R) are 34 mm for the leading piston and 38 mm for the trailing one.  For a staggered piston design to work as designed, the trailing piston must always be larger than the leading piston.  This is done on calipers with long pads to keep the pad twist under control and to keep the pad wear (and heat) even across the length of the pad.

It occurred to me later that the P2 chassis has the calipers mounted in front of the axle centerline, and that the leading (smaller) pistons would be on the top, and on the same end of the caliper as the bleed nipples.  When rotating them around to the rear of the axle centerline, as on the 240 chassis, the smaller piston would remain the leading piston.  This would be the correct way to installed them, however it places the bleed nipples pointing straight down.  Furthermore, the high pressure line, as it comes out the caliper, would also be angled down, making it difficult to route the line away from the suspension control arm.

I pondered these problems when I was doing my installation, and attempted removing of the blanking plugs from the trailing side of the caliper to move the bleed nipples to that side so they'd be pointing up.  They would NOT come out.  I tried heat, I tried chemicals (thread unlocker), and I tried force.  Eventually I stripped a couple of the plugs' socket hexes (not to mention the paint from around one of the plugs with my propane torch), so I gave up trying to move them.

I came to the conclusion that I'm only going to need to bleed these brakes once or twice, so I might as well remove the calipers and hang them "upside down" from the struts to bleed them.  I shoved a piece of metal between the pads to keep them from compressing, and bungee'd them to the spring, and they bled out just perfectly.

As far as the brake hose issue, I solved this by using a regular 240 hose and hose-to-caliper hardline.  The hardline threads into the caliper properly, and allows one to quickly bend upwards and clamp to the strut (being removable is necessary, so the caliper can be removed and bled again if needed).

And to my pleasure, these calipers fit just fine behind a Volvo Tethys wheel when using a 25mm spacer.  They're not very visible back there behind all those spokes, but they fit just fine.

I used Hawk pads for an Subaru STi as Hawk doesn't list them for the R, or at least they didn't when I bought the pads (The STi Brembo caliper shares the pad dimensions with these calipers).   I'm not sure if I'd use them again - they squeal when lightly applied and the dust is pretty dark, and on the Tethys the dust accumulates quite quickly. 

So far they're the most confidence-inspiring brakes I've ever driven.  I'm not 100% happy with the balance yet - the fronts are too powerful, even though:
a) my car's not lowered;
b) my car's got a heavy V8 in the nose; and
c) I removed the rear brake limiting valves, but boy does the car stop! 
I do prefer a bit more rear bias, and I don't spend any time on a road course, so I imagine I'm not the utmost authority on brake setup, but I wish I had a bit stronger rear brakes.  Next step MIGHT be converting to different rear calipers... maybe Rs and vented rotors as well?

As a follow-up to Matt's submission above... on the subject of Potential Uneven Pad Wear due to the offset piston sizes and reversed calipers....  I pulled and inspected my Green Stuff pads after a few years of use and found nothing that suggested they were wearing unevenly.  Also, of all the other people running R calipers in the wrong direction on 240's, so far I have heard of no abnormal or uneven pad wear.... just great braking!  Take this for whatever it's worth, but I suspect the issue is not a big one. 

And a side note regarding comments I have read about EBC Green Stuff pads after I bought them.  I read several forum posts supposedly written by  "experienced" people, who said the Green Stuff pads were "horrible" because they were not aggressive enough for the track, but too aggressive for the street.  I have found after a few years with these pads (with some very aggressive track days) that I completely disagree with their opinions.  These pads have worked great for me.  No squealing, great stopping when cold, no fading when hot, and very little dust!  And others have since reported that Hawk pads are horrible when they get a little wet.  I haven't seen this problem with EBC Green Stuff.  And Hawks, as it turns out, are considerably more expensive than EBC pads.  My considered opinion is that Green Stuff works fine in this combination.
- Dave B.

240 BIG BRAKES: Chapter 2

2006 Update: Wilwood 2-piece front rotors added to R-Brakes
I had always wanted to upgrade to a two piece Wilwood rotor assembly, so I had the above pictured rotor set made up. 
It was done by Todd Cook at TCE Performance Products in Tempe, Arizona,

And since a custom hat/rotor combo means that I can decide what offset I want (within limits of course), I decided it was time to move the rotors inboard .500" (1/2 inch).  This would give me broader wheel options in the future.    This is where the modified caliper adapters pictured above came into play. 

I had the raised pads on the adapters shaved .500" (1/2 inch) where they meet the caliper.  The other areas you see where aluminum was removed were necessary to clear portions of the caliper body. 

<<< You may compare the photo at left (original SVR caliper mount bracket) to the photo below showing the modified SVR bracket in place, which moves the caliper inboard 1/2 inch. 

Now you might ask... If I could move the calipers inboard 1/2 inch, then why not move them in an INCH?  As mentioned above, there are limits.  The limiting factor with the 240 is the steering arm, which is normally less than 1/2 inch from the stock rotor.  That's about where my new setup puts the Wilwood rotor.  I suppose it would have been possible to get another 1/4 inch if I pushed it, but I'm happy with these results.

240 BIG BRAKES: Chapter 3

Wilwood Caliper Adapter Kit by Avalanche Performance
(Update: December 2011. It appears these items are no longer available)
In mid-2010, Avalanche Performance Technologies came out with their much anticipated 240 adapter kit for putting Wilwood racing calipers and rotors on the front of a Volvo 240.  This chapter will show the installation on my 242 Turbo.

This brake kit was designed to offer an inexpensive solution for 240 owners who wanted larger brakes. While less expensive than the R-brake conversion, it also allowed for more wheel options, since this brake package fits inside smaller wheels than the R-brake with 13 inch rotors. 

Referring to the photo BELOW, the Avalanche kit came with two custom aluminum caliper adapters with mounting bolts, two custom aluminum hats, and the brake line pieces which go from the caliper to the flexible line junction at the strut tube. Also included were two plugs for the brake line junction block. 

Here are the calipers (left and right respectively) bolted up to the adapters. 

I used the following items from Wilwood:

1. Forged Billet Superlite
(FSL), model WW120-7431R and WW120-7431L. Four piston, 1.38 inch bore, for 1.25 inch rotor. 
For detailed info on this caliper, click here for the Forged Superlite lineup or click here for the Wilwood FSL pdf.

Any 12.19 inch x 1.25 inch rotor with 8 bolts, 7 inch circle.  I opted for Wilwood Ultralite 32 fin curved vane rotors, PN 1602894 (right) and PN 1602895 (left).

The brake line threads are as follows: 1/8" x 27 NPT at the caliper (90 degree fitting),
3/8" x 24 double flare brake adapter, to hard line with 10 x 1.0 mm bubble flare at the union with the flex line.

This caliper uses the below Wilwood pads.  I read up on the pad compounds in Wilwood's site and chose the BP-10 Smart Pad (formerly called PolyMatrix D), which I believed to be a good choice for the mostly street use.

Avalanche didn't supply rotor to hat fasteners, so I ordered Wilwood socket head bolts, 5/16" x 24, PN 230-0150 (8 pieces with washers, 2 sets needed).

I cannot over-emphasize the importance of test fitting parts like these before committing yourself to the full installation. 

The first thing I found (I knew this was going to happen) was that the brake backing plate interfered with the new adapter and caliper.  The main interference was found near the bottom of the adapter bracket. 

Trimming the backing plate might be a solution, but I chose to remove it. 
The hub needs to be removed to get the backing plate off.  This photo show the backing plate already removed.  This will be a good opportunity to re-grease the bearings.  Also, the rubber seal on the inside end of the spindle would be a good thing to replace, as they are cheap and still available. 

Here I'm test-fitting the caliper bracket after the backing plate was removed.  The way the bracket fits the mount on the spindle is pure art.  Very nice work. 

Here's something to be cautious of. 

If you're using caliper mounting bolts that have an un-threaded shoulder (like the original Volvo bolt in this photo), check to make sure the bolt threads all the way in.  I've seen more than one type on cars from the factory.

The kit came with a washer to use here between the bolt and adapter (this is important when bolting aluminum), but since the adapter bracket is a little thinner than the original 240 caliper mounting arm, the bolt would not seat completely. 
Simple fix: One additional washer was needed. 

Here is the snag that stopped my installation.  I knew ahead of time that there could be interferrence between the deep spokes on the Eiker Polaris replica wheel and the Wilwood caliper.  In this photo, I have already placed 8 mm of spacer material behind the wheel, which then allowed a comfortable distance of about 1.5 to 2 mm between the wheel and caliper. So these wheels will not fit a 240 with this kit, unless a spacer of at least 7-8 mm thickness is used.  Also, since a wheel lug nut normally engages about 15 mm of thread on the stud, using a spacer will reduce that engagement.  Longer wheel studs can solve this. 

Hub-centric spacers as small as 10 mm thick are available from Avalanche Performance Technologies.  Also Kaplhenke Racing carries a 16.5 mm hub-centric spacer and 3 inch extended wheel studs. 

My installation will be continued later . . . . .

More Big Brake Conversions
Wilwood Caliper/Rotor Adapter Kit by Kevin Hawkinson

This adapter kit shown was being offered in the below Turbobricks thread.

The brake conversion below was originally introduced by DVS Performance Parts in Australia at http://www.dvs.net.au.
The conversion uses an adapter bracket, a front caliper from an 86-91 Mazda RX7 Turbo II, GXL, GTU or convertible (5 stud wheels), and a bigger 11.25" diameter (22 mm thick) rotor from a Volvo 7/9 seriesSupposedly this adaptation will fit inside most 15 inch wheels, although a small (5 mm) spacer may be needed for a 240 Turbo (Virgo) wheel.  Additional discussion about this can be found at https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=68630

In January 2013 I received an interesting email from Willy Reerink in the Netherlands.
Hello Dave,
I am working on the ultimate Volvo 240 to Mazda RX7 brake upgrade. My story is as follows:
In 2011 I bought a Ford Taunus dragrace car in Sweden and bringing it to the Netherlands where I live. As the car was built in Sweden they used Volvo 240 spindles and calipers. But when the car was built years ago it was much slower then with its current engine. I bought it with a 1.000 HP Chevy Small Block engine in it. It never raced with this engine and brakes. Last year we made the first runs, and brakes seemed not to do anything at all. So I first overhauled the brakes, and used ECB race pads. Brakes work now but the car is reaching 250 kph (156 MPH) and that makes braking even more exciting then accelerating!
Anyway, I looked for a brake upgrade and decided that to me the best solution was the RX7 upgrade. Cheap, easy to mount, and much lighter then the 240 ones.
I am still working on it because I do encounter some problems and I am not a mechanic. I do this for the first time.
But I can make a good comparison. The Volvo 240 ones did have just enough capacity to stop the Taunus, but nothing left (I prefer braking with the chute now). So lets see what happens this summer when the RX7 brakes are installed and how they manage high speeds. We will see.
You can follow my brake upgrade on my blog at:  http://turbotaunus.wordpress.com/brake-upgrade/

Porsche Cayenne Calipers on a 240

July 2013, by Jacob (Kansas, USA).

Here's a great looking adaptation of Porsche Cayenne brake calipers on a 1990 240 Owned by Jacob in Kansas.

Jacob's Cayenne brake thread: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=281934
Jacob's 240 build thread: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=219119

Front calipers: 17Z left and right 6-piston from a 2005 Porsche Cayenne V8 using 330 x 32 mm rotors.
Rear calipers: 4-piston from same 2005 Porsche Cayenne V8 using 330 x 32 mm rotors.
Master Cylinder: 1.0625" (27 mm) bore from a 1994 Mustang GT (stock 240 master cylinder has a 22 mm bore).
Rotors: Volvo S60R standard Brembo, 330 x 32 mm front and rear.
Pads: OEM Pagids all around.

The adapter brackets were designed by Jacob. These calipers use a conventional mount, as opposed to a radial mount.  Be aware that some Porsche Brembos use a radial mount.  Jacob is considering having some more brackets made in the future for those who are interested.  Links are below.

REAR CALIPER and adapter.
Because of the staggered piston sizes on these calipers (similar to the Volvo R calipers) and the fact that on the Cayenne they were originally mounted on the front of the rotors (and these are going behind them on the Volvo), Jacob flipped the crossover pipes and bleeder screws to swap them. Having the staggered pistons in the proper order will eliminate a potential for uneven pad wear.

FRONT CALIPER and adapter.

Front caliper in place.

What is this?  This is the drum portion of a stock 240 rear rotor.

The disc part has been cut away.  It will be used behind the S60R rear rotor to retain the stock 240 parking brakes. 
Nice, huh?

Rear rotor in place over drum piece.

This larger bore master cylinder is from a 1994 Mustang GT. 
These 6 piston calipers need more fluid to move the brakes than the stock calipers do.  A stock master cylinder would require a longer pedal travel. 

This master cylinder is a fairly popular one for people looking for a larger bore. It can be found as Centric PN 13061062 or Dorman PN M390185.
It has a piston bore of 27 mm (front and rear). The rear port is M10 x 1.0 mm bubble flare, so the Volvo brake line fits.
Front port is M12 x 1.0 mm bubble flare so an adapter is needed. Search for Brake Line Thread Adapter, Male M12 x 1 Bubble, Female M10 x 1 Bubble: Here's one:

Also if you don't care for the strange looking reservoir, a stock Volvo reservoir can be fitted. 
This link discusses that:

To fit this master cylinder properly, the push rod on the original booster
needed to be extended approximately 0.8 inch.

Jacob's Cayenne brake thread: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=281934
Jacob's 240 build thread: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=219119

Cadillac ATS Brembo front calipers on a 240

By Edison Bender, November 2014
This adaptation uses Cadillac ATS front 4-piston calipers and 13 inch rotors from an S60R/V70R.  It will fit with most 17 inch wheels. An advantage of this caliper is that they are only about $120 each new.  The calipers may be purchased from various OEM suppliers and even Rock Auto  has them under the AC Delco brand.  They use the same brake pads as the S60R/V70R, STI or Evo using Brembos. 

The adapter brackets have been custom made and are available in the below link.
Turbobricks thead and purchase info:

These are interesting.  Pretty simple design.
I found these pics on a Porche 944 site. 
Anyone want to make some sets for 240's??

What's this?  Looks like an S60R rear caliper mounted on a 240 rear hub.  It's a pretty simple design for the bracket if anyone wants to try it out.  A rear proportion valve would be needed to reduce the pressure some.  This setup belongs to the guy in the below website (in Swedish).

The below photos are Porsche calipers adapted by a European 240 owner for an '81 244 Turbo.   These calipers are considered radial mount.  Custom two-piece rotors were used, however the rotor size is not known.  Nice, simple adaptation.   These pics were located in the following Turbobricks thread:  https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=22070

240 StopTech kit that was once (no longer) being offered by
Kaplhenke Racing  http://www.kaplhenke.com/

This kit utilized StopTech brake components along with a custom caliper mounting bracket to give you a first class front brake upgrade.  Not cheap.

 - 4 Piston aluminum calipers
 - 332 mm slotted rotor
 - Floating rotor hat system

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