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M A I N S
really good video for a beginner on flaring your own
Some good DIY brake discussions:
Before the Big Brakes on my 245:
I owned my '84 245 Turbo for 6 years before doing the big R-caliper modification you see below. I had plenty of experience with stock 240 brakes and pads and lots of experience trying different things to improve them. Stock 240 brakes are OK for most "normal" driving. In my opinion they are really not good enough in original condition for track or high-performance driving.
I was already a customer of IPD, so naturally I tried some of their brake pads over the years. I tried the PBR Deluxe first. I discovered they had a very bad tendency to fade after a few hard stops. The fade wasn't subtle... it was really bad. The braking came back once things cooled down. The PBR Deluxes are really good when cold... lots of bite, and very little brake dust. Just don't expect much out of them after when hot hard stops.
Then I tried
a set of PBR Metalmasters.
These pads are designed for much heavier
use. I never got them to fade, but the
cold stopping was not very good at
all. One time while on
the freeway during a long road-trip (I
hadn't touched the brakes in a while, so
they were c-c-cold), all the traffic in
front of me came to really quick
STOP. I hit the brakes and found I
had very little braking power. I
mashed the brake pedal using every bit
of strength I had and I baaaaaarely
stopped just a few inches from the car
A friend and fellow 240 owner, Clay Dewan, suggested the Mintex (red box) pads in the photo to the right. I was a skeptic, since they were really inexpensive and Mintex was not a name I knew at the time. But I tried a set and absolutely fell in love with them. They had great cold and WET stopping. And they held the braking power when really hot too. I used Mintex pads for several years and also during a number of track days at Thunderhill Raceway. I even boiled my brake fluid at the track and later changed to higher-temp DOT 4 brake fluid. The Mintex pads never failed me. I highly recommend them for your 240 if you can find them. These used to be available lots of places in the U.S.A, but now It seems these Mintex pads are either no longer available or hard to find (at least for a 240).
STOCK 240 BRAKE SPECSVolvo 240 4-piston Calipers:
Front caliper: 38 mm pistons 1976-1993 in Girling or ATE versions.
M10 x 1.0 bubble flare brake line union ports.
(Beware of early version calipers made for thinner SOLID rotors).
Volvo 240 Brake Rotors:
FRONT (early): 14.3 mm thick solid rotor. 263 mm diameter. PN 270737-0.
FRONT (late): 24 mm thick VENTED rotor. 263 mm diameter. PN 270739-6.
REAR: 9.6 mm thick solid rotor. 281 mm diameter. PN 270736-2.
Volvo 240 Master Cylinder: M10 x 1.0 bubble flare brake line union ports.
Non-ABS master cylinder has STEPPED bores: 22.3 mm primary (rear bore), 15.75 mm secondary (front bore).
ABS master cylinder has STEPPED bores: 22.3 mm primary (rear bore), 19 mm secondary (front bore).
Master Cylinder Part Numbers:
8111005-8: 240 non-ABS Brake line ports on left.
8111006-6: 240 non-ABS Brake line ports on right.
3530972, 8251131, 8602015: 240 with ABS.
Here's a good discussion thread on available performance brakes pads for 240s:
240 BIG BRAKES: Chapter 1
I began this project in December
2003 when I purchased a set of new
S60R front calipers and rotors (for 2004 and
plan was to design a caliper bracket to
fit these calipers on the front of my
245. Before I got very far, I
received an email from Travis
Kijowski of Strictly Volvo Racing
(SVR) in Maryland. He was
already in the process of developing an
aluminum bracket for these
calipers to fit a 240 strut housing,
which he would later adapt for his
The R caliper is an aluminum 4-piston type made for Volvo by Brembo. The caliper weighs 7 lbs. 6 oz. (about 3.3 kg).
This caliper has 4 pistons. Two are 42 mm diameter and two are 38 mm diameter.
The piston area used by these calipers is not much more than the factory Girling 240 front caliper, which has four 38 mm pistons.
Upgrading to a master cylinder with more volume or larger pistons is not necessary.
This installation used the stock 240 master cylinder.
The rotor (also made by Brembo) is 13 inches (330.2 mm) x 1.25 inch (32 mm).
Quite a bit larger than the original 10 inch brakes on the 240. The rotor weighs approximately 20 lbs (about 9 kg). I had the slots shown below custom machined at the cost of about $25 per rotor.
(BELOW PHOTOS) The photo on the left is the original brakes on my 245... stock rotors (except for custom drilling or slotting).
The right side photo shows the R brakes after installation. I was pretty amazed about the rotors going on with no mods.
This natural aluminum bracket is the first prototype bracket. It allowed the R calipers to bolt to the 240 struts tubes with no other mods. The later versions were black anodized with laser-etched "SVR."
These brackets weighed in at 15 oz. each (about 425 grams).
UPDATE November 2008: These brackets became no longer available from the above source.
New sources may be found in my Cool Volvo Products Page.
Lots of detailed info has now been written by
other people about this conversion over years and can be
found in the Turbobricks Forum (https://forums.turbobricks.com/) and at the below links
specifically (among others):
The brackets from SVR were designed to allow the R
caliper to be mounted in almost the same place as the
stock caliper. You can see in this pic how
the R caliper is moved outboard (away from the strut
tube). This was necessary so it correctly fit
the position of the R rotor, which is set further
outboard than the 240 rotor.
To put this in
perspective, when measuring from the (pad) surface of the rotor, the R rotor will be about 5/8 inch (about 16
mm) more outboard than a stock 240
The stock sheet metal brake backing plates were
useless for this upgrade and went in the trash.
Notice that you only need ONE brake line per
wheel instead of two brake lines as my car originally
FRONT R BRAKE PARTS
The front R CALIPERS are Volvo PN 8602682 and 8602683.
The front R ROTORS are Volvo PN 30645222 (same left or right). I had the grooves custom cut.
The SPRING CLIPS/RETAINERS are Volvo PN 30645137 (2 sets required).
OEM front brake pads are PN 30645135 or 30748957. I opted for EBC Green Stuff pads on front, PN DP21210.
BOLTS USED FOR
Bolt 12 x 1.75 mm x 60 mm (4 required)
Junction Block Plugs (pictured at right), Volvo
1387506 (2 required) about $4
two new metal hard brake lines in the picture
of parts. These hard lines were used to
replace the original hard lines going from the
calipers to the flexible lines (I already had
stainless front flex lines that I bought from
iPd years before, so I used one of those for
each side). The old original
metal hard lines can be re-used, but I find the brass fittings often
seize at the calipers or at the flex line
after many years, so I decided to buy new
ones. I got them from FCP Groton at https://www.fcpgroton.com/.
They're part number AA0320 (2 required).
BRAKE LINE ROUTING:
ORIGINAL FACTORY SETUP:
The 240 non-ABS brake junction block shown here has 8 ports. This first photo illustrates the original 240 brake line configuration when using the original 240 front caliper in my '84 240, which originally used two brake lines per front caliper. The front Brembo R calipers use only one line per caliper. For this conversion, two of the front caliper ports on the junction block will need to be plugged.
| MODIFIED ALTERNATE
This is how I originally did this back in 2004 when installing these 'R' brakes on my '84 245. As you can see, I simply removed one front brake line from the right side and one from the left. Then I plugged the two empty holes.
This method worked fine for years, however I received some grief from a few 240 enthusiasts who felt it was unsafe. They felt that if one front caliper suddenly lost pressure, hitting the brakes would shoot the car off to the right or left out of control. I suppose it's possible, so if you try something like this, be aware.
Jacob (Porsche Cayenne calipers) used and recommends this method in his brake kit instructions. As far as I know so far, no one has done it differently and this conversion has been done MANY TIMES over the years.
MODIFIED ALTERNATE 1A (photo not shown):
If you're OK with Alternate 1, but are shaking in your booties about the potential problem mentioned above, this may be a solution. This method uses the same configuration shown in Alternate 1, except for one change. As shown in Alternate 3, remove the inner piston assembly. This will convert the two-chamber junction block into a one-chamber block. Any fear of the car shooting off left or right should be gone now. Be aware that if you lose pressure now, you just lose all brakes. So choose your poison.
I have not tried this method and to my knowledge no one else has either.
If you remove the inner piston, I think it might be a good idea to remove the plastic sender and plug that hole with a metal plug. The internal pressures may be too much for the plastic sender after removing that piston assembly. Not sure. Just saying.
More on this is discussed a little bit below.
MODIFIED ALTERNATE 2:
This is how it was recommended to me by some people who had were scared of Alternate 1. If you choose to do it this way, you will need to either bend the existing brake lines to fit (if it's possible) or make new ones. This is very similar to how the ABS cars were plumbed. Keep in mind that if you're using a non-ABS master cylinder, the fluid volume coming from the front and rear ports might be different, since the front port comes from a 15.75 mm piston and the rear port gets fed by a 22.3 mm piston.
I have not tried this method and I don't know if anyone has, including the people who recommended it.
The safety aspect is as follows: If pressure is lost somewhere, then you will lose either front brakes or rear brakes, but not all of them at once.
I would certainly appreciate some feedback if you have done an R brake conversion. What method did you use?
MODIFIED ALTERNATE 3:
This is a proposal for those of you who would choose Alternate 2, but would like to eliminate any problem mentioned above.
That inner piston separates the two chambers, but is designed to freely move forward or rearward depending on brake pressure differentials. By removing the piston, the junction block is converted to a one-chamber block, instead of two. Be aware that having a one-chamber junction block means that if any part of the brake system looses pressure, then all of it will.
If you remove the inner piston, I think it might be a good idea to eliminate the plastic sender. There's a lot of pressure in there and I don't know if trusting a plastic sender is the best idea. The thread for this port is M12 x 1.0. There are fittings available with M12 x 1.0 thread, but all I have found so far are JIC or AN fittings with a flared sealing end. If you look under that white plastic piece inside the port, it's just a flat bottom with a small hole in the center, so a flared fitting will not seal there. There is, however, a chamfer for an o-ring, which is what the factory sender uses to seal. So I think there is a good chance of creating a seal using a M12 x 1.0 o-ring fitting.
If you do something like this with your project, please email me. I'd like to know.
|ALTERNATIVE JUNCTION BLOCK
<<< If you want a brake junction block without the warning sender, look for Volvo PN 3540084 from a 1991 240. It will operate as two separate junction blocks with no shared internal port.
WHEEL SIZE IS
CRITICAL with these brakes:
So far I know the 17 inch Volvo R wheels
will clear just fine and I have been told the Volvo Tethys
also. Both are FWD type wheels and will need
custom spacers to fit a 240 properly.
The popular Eiker (Polaris
replica) is 17 inches and WILL NOT fit
as the caliper hits the inner wheel barrel.
The outside surface of the new,
larger R caliper will be further outboard (in
the direction of the wheel spokes). My
measurements show them to be about 24 mm further
outboard when compared to the stock 240
caliper. So if your wheel spokes
are already close to your original front
calipers, you will either need new wheels or
some wheel spacers to move them outward. Many more
discussions from others who have worked out this
installation can be found in the Turbobricks forum.
After the reduction valves were removed, I needed some way to re-connect the brake lines and found that a standard early 1980's 240 junction block (shown in photo) worked perfectly in place of the reduction valves. It fits like it could have been made to go there. Four of the open ports on the block needed to be plugged (so four more brass plugs were needed).
After testing the brakes without the rear reduction valves, I discovered the front/rear bias was nearly perfect for a wagon. Much better than expected. I now have a very nice front/rear balance which takes full advantage of the improved brake system. Much stronger front brakes (because they're so damn big) and stronger rear brakes also (since removing the reduction valves).
Experimentation is the key to improving modifications.
Here is an R caliper installation that was done a little differently and the results.
2006 Update: Wilwood 2-piece front rotors added to R-Brakes
|I had always wanted to
upgrade to a two piece Wilwood rotor assembly, so I
had the above pictured rotor set made up.
It was done by Todd Cook at TCE Performance Products in Tempe, Arizona, http://tceperformanceproducts.com.
And since a custom hat/rotor combo means that I can decide what offset I want (within limits of course), I decided it was time to move the rotors inboard .500" (1/2 inch). This would give me broader wheel options in the future. This is where the modified caliper adapters pictured above came into play.
I had the raised pads on the adapters shaved .500" (1/2 inch) where they meet the caliper. The other areas you see where aluminum was removed were necessary to clear portions of the caliper body.
|<<< You may compare
the photo at left (original SVR caliper mount
bracket) to the photo below showing the modified
SVR bracket in place, which moves the caliper
inboard 1/2 inch.
Now you might ask... If I could move the calipers inboard 1/2 inch, then why not move them in an INCH? As mentioned above, there are limits. The limiting factor with the 240 is the steering arm, which is normally less than 1/2 inch from the stock rotor. That's about where my new setup puts the Wilwood rotor. I suppose it would have been possible to get another 1/4 inch if I pushed it, but I'm happy with these results.
Wilwood Caliper Adapter Kit by Avalanche Performance
(Update: December 2011. It appears these items are no longer available)
In mid-2010, Avalanche Performance Technologies came out with their much anticipated 240 adapter kit for putting Wilwood racing calipers and rotors on the front of a Volvo 240. This chapter will show the installation on my 242 Turbo.
This brake kit was designed to offer an inexpensive solution for 240 owners who wanted larger brakes. While less expensive than the R-brake conversion, it also allowed for more wheel options, since this brake package fits inside smaller wheels than the R-brake with 13 inch rotors.
Referring to the photo BELOW, the Avalanche kit came with two custom aluminum caliper adapters with mounting bolts, two custom aluminum hats, and the brake line pieces which go from the caliper to the flexible line junction at the strut tube. Also included were two plugs for the brake line junction block.
Here are the calipers (left and right respectively) bolted up to the adapters.
I used the following items from Wilwood:
1. Forged Billet Superlite (FSL), model WW120-7431R and WW120-7431L. Four piston, 1.38 inch bore, for 1.25 inch rotor.
For detailed info on this caliper, click here for the Forged Superlite lineup or click here for the Wilwood FSL pdf.
2. Any 12.19 inch x 1.25 inch rotor with 8 bolts, 7 inch circle. I opted for Wilwood Ultralite 32 fin curved vane rotors, PN 1602894 (right) and PN 1602895 (left).
The brake line threads are as follows: 1/8" x 27 NPT at the caliper (90 degree fitting), 3/8" x 24 double flare brake adapter, to hard line with 10 x 1.0 mm bubble flare at the union with the flex line.
This caliper uses the below Wilwood pads. I read up on the pad compounds in Wilwood's site and chose the BP-10 Smart Pad (formerly called PolyMatrix D), which I believed to be a good choice for the mostly street use.
Avalanche didn't supply rotor to hat fasteners, so I ordered Wilwood socket head bolts, 5/16" x 24, PN 230-0150 (8 pieces with washers, 2 sets needed).
I cannot over-emphasize the importance of test fitting parts like these before committing yourself to the full installation.
The first thing I found (I knew this was going to happen) was that the brake backing plate interfered with the new adapter and caliper. The main interference was found near the bottom of the adapter bracket.
Trimming the backing plate might be a solution, but I chose to remove it. The hub needs to be removed to get the backing plate off. This photo show the backing plate already removed. This will be a good opportunity to re-grease the bearings. Also, the rubber seal on the inside end of the spindle would be a good thing to replace, as they are cheap and still available.
Here I'm test-fitting the caliper bracket after the backing plate was removed. The way the bracket fits the mount on the spindle is pure art. Very nice work.
Here's something to be cautious of.
If you're using caliper mounting bolts that have an un-threaded shoulder (like the original Volvo bolt in this photo), check to make sure the bolt threads all the way in. I've seen more than one type on cars from the factory.
The kit came with a washer to use here between the bolt and adapter (this is important when bolting aluminum), but since the adapter bracket is a little thinner than the original 240 caliper mounting arm, the bolt would not seat completely.
Simple fix: One additional washer was needed.
|Here is the snag that stopped my
installation. I knew ahead of
time that there could be interferrence between
the deep spokes on the Eiker Polaris replica
wheel and the Wilwood caliper. In this
photo, I have already placed 8 mm of spacer
material behind the wheel, which then allowed
a comfortable distance of about 1.5 to 2 mm
between the wheel and caliper. So these wheels
will not fit a 240 with this kit, unless a
spacer of at least 7-8 mm thickness is
used. Also, since a wheel lug nut
normally engages about 15 mm of thread on the
stud, using a spacer will reduce that
engagement. Longer wheel studs can solve
Hub-centric spacers as small as 10 mm thick are available from Avalanche Performance Technologies. Also Kaplhenke Racing carries a 16.5 mm hub-centric spacer and 3 inch extended wheel studs.
My installation will be continued later . . . . .
|More Big Brake Conversions
Wilwood Caliper/Rotor Adapter Kit by Kevin Hawkinson
This adapter kit shown was being offered in the below Turbobricks thread.
RX7 BRAKE CONVERSION
The brake conversion below was originally introduced by DVS Performance Parts in Australia at http://www.dvs.net.au.
The conversion uses an adapter bracket, a front caliper from an 86-91 Mazda RX7 Turbo II, GXL, GTU or convertible (5 stud wheels), and a bigger 11.25" diameter (22 mm thick) rotor from a Volvo 7/9 series. Supposedly this adaptation will fit inside most 15 inch wheels, although a small (5 mm) spacer may be needed for a 240 Turbo (Virgo) wheel. Additional discussion about this can be found at https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=68630.
In January 2013 I received an interesting email from Willy Reerink in the Netherlands.
Porsche Cayenne Calipers on a 240
by Jacob (Kansas, USA).
brake thread: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=281934
REAR CALIPER and adapter.
Because of the staggered piston sizes on these calipers (similar to the Volvo R calipers) and the fact that on the Cayenne they were originally mounted on the front of the rotors (and these are going behind them on the Volvo), Jacob flipped the crossover pipes and bleeder screws to swap them. Having the staggered pistons in the proper order will eliminate a potential for uneven pad wear.
Front caliper in place.
part has been cut away. It
will be used behind the S60R
rear rotor to retain the stock
240 parking brakes.
This larger bore master cylinder is from a 1994 Mustang GT.
These 6 piston calipers need more fluid to move the brakes than the stock calipers do. A stock master cylinder would require a longer pedal travel.
|This master cylinder is a fairly popular one for people looking for a larger bore. It can be found as Centric PN 13061062 or Dorman PN M390185.
It has a piston bore of 27 mm (front and rear). The rear port is M10 x 1.0 mm bubble flare, so the Volvo brake line fits.
Front port is M12 x 1.0 mm bubble flare so an adapter is needed. Search for Brake Line Thread Adapter, Male M12 x 1 Bubble, Female M10 x 1 Bubble: Here's one:
Also if you don't care for the strange looking reservoir, a stock Volvo reservoir can be fitted.
This link discusses that: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=349379
Cadillac ATS Brembo front calipers on a 240
Edison Bender, November 2014
adapter brackets have been
custom made and are available in
the below link.
OTHER INTERESTING BRAKE PHOTOS:
These are interesting. Pretty simple design.
I found these pics on a Porche 944 site.
Anyone want to make some sets for 240's??
Looks like an S60R rear caliper mounted on a 240
rear hub. It's a pretty simple design for
the bracket if anyone wants to try it out. A
rear proportion valve would be needed to reduce
the pressure some. This setup belongs to the
guy in the below website (in Swedish).
The below photos are Porsche calipers adapted by a European 240 owner for an '81 244 Turbo. These calipers are considered radial mount. Custom two-piece rotors were used, however the rotor size is not known. Nice, simple adaptation. These pics were located in the following Turbobricks thread: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=22070
240 StopTech kit that was once (no longer) being offered by Kaplhenke Racing http://www.kaplhenke.com/
This kit utilized
StopTech brake components along with a custom caliper
mounting bracket to give you a first class front brake
upgrade. Not cheap.
- 332 mm slotted rotor
- Floating rotor hat system
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