2 4 0 T U R B O . C O M
D A V E ' S   V O L V O   P A G E
ELECTRIC COOLING FAN PROJECTS
for Volvos


     UPDATED: October 27, 2022                       CONTACT       
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N A V I G A T I N G   T H I S   P A G E
Volvo 2-Speed Relays
Electric Fan Conversion Projects
Volvo 940 / 850 Fan (2009)
4-Speed Fan Controller Project (2016)
Large Griffin Aluminum Radiator
Lincoln Mark VIII Fan Install (2014)
AutoCoolGuy PWM Fan Controller Installation (2018)
Big FUSE
Ford Taurus Fan Info
Ford Contour Dual Fan Info
Big Jeep Chrysler Fans (2021)
Fitting Ultra WIDE Radiator in a 240

WATTS TO AMPS CALCULATOR
If you know the Watt rating of a fan, you can use that to calculate Amperage.
https://www.inchcalculator.com/watts-to-amps-calculator/

Volvo Electric Primary Cooling Fan Conversions


WHY?
I began tinkering with electric primary cooling fan conversions in Volvo 240s back around 1997 after having less than a successful time keeping my '84 245 Turbo from running too hot during warm 100+ degree Southern California summers using the stock pulley fan.  I then developed this page beginning in 1999 to share this info and I've been updating it on occasion ever since.  Basically, this page will outline some fairly simple and inexpensive primary electric fan conversion ideas for Volvo 240s. Some ideas worked, some not so well. Some of these ideas also work for the 740,
however it should be noted the 740 Turbo has less room between the radiator and water pump pulley, so some fans shown in this page may not fit in the space. 


While there are many options for your Volvo when it comes to keeping cool, these are just a few. This information is presented at face value with no specific claims of magical performance, other than my own experiences.

All of my electric fan projects over the years were for Volvos with AIR CONDITIONING. So keep that in mind when you tell yourself YOU didn't need a fan that big.  Maybe you didn't, but if you add AC (and an INTERCOOLER) that seriously changes the whole game, especially in a hot climate. 


For any electric fan installation, make sure that your fan is capable of turning itself on reliably if your engine starts to overheat.
 
There are two primary reasons for performing an Electric Fan Conversion. The FIRST is to reduce the engine drag at highway speeds. In theory you should gain a little horespower.
The SECOND reason would be to
reduce the amount of stress on the waterpump. 240s can go through water pumps faster than a typical car and it's a good idea to change them as preventative maintenance. The loads placed on the water pump bearings by the alternator and a huge belt-driven fan can shorten its potential service life.

Electric Fan Wire Diagrams Collection

Click here for my 8 page collection of relay-based cooling fan diagram suggestions you can use to build your own stuff (PDF).

FAN CLUTCH OR ELECTRIC?
You will need to decide for yourself if your fan clutch is best or if an electric fan is best. If a new electric fan is big enough and really, really powerful, it might equal the cooling performance of a heavy duty fan clutch. 
Most electric fans will not come close.

Also an electric fan may not be as reliable as the mechanical fan. Electrical stuff fails.  If you decide it's best for your Volvo to keep the belt-driven fan, you may want to consider the option of a heavy duty fan clutch.  
An interesting bit of information I discovered while trying out the below electric fan conversions over the years. 
All electric fans I tried over the last 30 years were INFERIOR in cooling capacity compared to a heavy duty tropical fan clutch
, EXCEPT for the huge fans at the bottom of this list.

More info on the Heavy Duty Tropical Fan Clutch can be found in this page: https://www.240turbo.com/TropicalFanClutch.html


VOLVO 2-Speed FAN RELAY Basics.
 Lots of people are using this relay to control 2-speed fans because it's cheap if you can find it used. 

For suggested wiring info: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/volvo_electric_fan.shtml



<<< If you need a source for the original Volvo connectors for this relay, I am now offering them here: 
https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html#relaycoolingfan

  
 

Here's a collection of coolant temp switches/senders from NAPA. This list came from a 2007 discussion thread:
https://www.corral.net/threads/ultimate-guide-to-fan-temperature-switch-part-numbers.915523/
NAPA Fan switches
PN -- Temp On  -- Temp Off -- Threads
FS100SB    216-232 201    3/8x18
FS102SB    216-232 198-218    M22x1.5
FS103SB    200-210    1/2x14
FS110SB    224-236 212  3/8x18
FS111SB    229-245   3/8x18
FS112SB    213-229   3/8x18
FS120SB    193-207 175   1/2x14
FS121SB    nodata
FS130SB    191-198 182-189   M16x1.5
FS133SB    198   M16x1.5
FS147SB    194-203   M16x1.5
FS150SB    191-198 182-189   M22x1.5
FS151SB    2 circuit 190-209 209-226  M22x1.5
FS166SB    nodata
FS176SB    194 185   M16x1.5
FS186SB    196-201   M16x1.5
FS205SB    185   M16x1.5
FS207SB    nodata  3/8x18
FS211SB    nodata
FS244SB    199   M18x1.5









I began this page in the 1990s
Over the years I've done a number of different electric fan conversions in 240s.  I've compiled that info below for those who might be interested.

ELECTRIC FAN CONVERSIONS
Projects over the years.

CONVERSION PROJECT #1
(posted 1997)
GM 14 and 16 inch Fans
(NOT RECOMMENDED FOR HOTTER CLIMATES OR CARS WITH AC)

All of my electric fan projects over the years were for Volvos with AIR CONDITIONING. So keep that in mind when you tell yourself YOU didn't need a fan that big.  Maybe you didn't, but if you add AC (and an INTERCOOLER) that seriously changes the whole game, especially in a hot climate. 
<<< Excuse the photo quality. This is a very old pic and it was originally a Polaroid. This is the first electric fan conversion I did back in 1997 for my 245 Turbo. I also used this same fan for several conversions of friend's 240s. One in a 240 non-turbo was still going strong and cooling well more than 15 years later.

<<< The fan depicted at left is from an early to mid-eighties Buick Century, Pontiac Grand Am, Olds Cutlass, or other General Motors mid-sized car with FWD and 4 or 6 cylinder.   It is made by AC Delco and is designed to be the primary fan for the car it originated in. 

Dimensions for this fan are as follows:


Height and Width: 17 x 17 inches at shroud edges

Depth at shroud housing next to motor: 3 1/8 inches
Depth at rear of fan motor: approx. 4 1/4 inches

Fan blade diameter: 14 inches.

The stock Volvo 240 radiator is about 17.5 x 22 inches overall.


<<< A larger 16 inch diameter fan in the same version can also be found in some of the GM 6 cylinder cars.  The outer dimensions will be the same. This is important because this shroud is a pefect size to fit directly onto the typical Volvo 240/740 radiator.

<<< All four of the original plastic mounting ears on the shroud need to be removed for fitment to a Volvo radiator. 
A hacksaw or sawzall does just fine here.  In this photo the ears have already been cut off, but I left them next to the fan so you could see where they came from.

<<< Since this fan will be mounted to the radiator, you'll need some mounting hardware.  The simplest method I found is with some 2 inch sheet metal screws, washers and these funny little sheet metal nuts.  The screws I used were the counter-sunk type with some counter-sunk finishing washers.  Most any will work though.


<<< This photo shows an existing hole in the top flange of the radiator.  All Volvo radiators will have these holes for mounting of the original fan shroud.  The sheet metal nut can be used here.  You will then need to drill a small hole in the GM fan shroud directly over the original hole in the radiator.

The plan is for the new fan shroud to be fastened to the radiator by four sheet metal screws, two at the top and two at the bottom.  You may need to drill the holes in the bottom radiator flange.

<<< Here we have the new fan mounted to the radiator. 

This assembly can now be placed in the car as one unit and mounted as any Volvo radiator is mounted.

To make this fan work in your car, you have several options. You can purchase an all-in-one fan controller with a temperature probe that goes into the radiator fins. You can use a coolant sensor mounted in your radiator if it has one. 

For my 8 page assortment of relay wiring diagram options, including two-speed circuits, click here (pdf file).




CONVERSION PROJECT #2 (2009)
Volvo 940 - 850 Fan.
Fan size: 388 mm (15.27 inches).

(NOT REALLY RECOMMENDED FOR HOTTER CLIMATES OR CARS WITH AC)
All of my electric fan projects over the years were for Volvos with AIR CONDITIONING. So keep that in mind when you tell yourself YOU didn't need a fan that big. 
Maybe you didn't, but if you add AC (and an INTERCOOLER) that seriously changes the whole game, especially in a hot climate. 

Volvo 940 - 850 Cooling Fan
This is a very popular fan used in many older Volvo conversions.  It's found in 1992 and later Volvo 940 and 960 models as well as all 850s. 
I don't have the full dimensions for this shroud, but I have been told it's 22 inches wide. If anyone can contribute more info, please EMAIL ME.

 

This fan shroud has a number of vents as you can see in this photo.  These vents have rubber flaps, which allow for airflow to escape during higher speeds when the fan normally isn't needed as much for cooling.  Having these flaps in place will help compensate for the relatively smaller shroud opening. The flaps allow for more air to pass through the radiator at high speeds than would be possible without the flaps.

Volvo 940 Radiator Size Info
There were reportedly a few different radiator CORE sizes (Euro region info):
Small: 450Wx418H (17.7 x 16.45 inches).
Medium: 590Wx418H (23.2 x 16.45 inches). 
Large: 590Wx499H (23.2 x 19.64 inches).

1992+ volvo 940 non-turbo radiator dimensions for U.S. market:
23.25 x 16.5 x 1.25 in. core size, 1.38 in. OD inlet, 1.38 in. OD outlet.

1992+ volvo 940T (turbo) radiator dimensions for U.S. market:
23.25 x 16.5 x 1.25 in. core size, 1.38 in. OD inlet, 1.38 in. OD outlet.



There is a similar fan found in the S70 and S80, however the S80 models I have seen feature a smaller, more compact motor.  I'm not sure if it's capacity is less.  All of these fans are
two-speed models, with low speed being about 50% of high speed.  The motor will have three wires; one ground and two hot wires (one for low and one for high).  A two-speed circuit may be used when you install one of these or you may use just the high circuit only. My installation used the high speed only.

This fan BELOW is popular in part because it's easily detached from the shroud and may then be custom mounted in your own shroud or a custom one.

 

Once removed from the shroud, this fan is about 4 inches deep from the end of the motor to the furthest point on the front of the fan.
The fan shown in the far left photo has been removed from the original fan shroud.
One cool thing about this fan is it simply unbolts from the original shroud. No cutting or chopping needed.

After it is removed, you'll find that the OUTER RING is about 17.5 inches across, which is why is fits well into a Volvo RWD mechanical fan shroud, which has an 18 inch opening.
The shroud ring opening for this fan is 16 inches.
The actual fan blade portion diameter on this fan is 388 mm (15.27 inches). 


For my 8 page assortment of relay wiring diagram options, including two-speed circuits, click here (pdf file).

 In 2009 I mounted this fan in this 240 fan shroud for my 242. This is a 240 Turbo (intercooler) fan shroud.
The 940 fan shroud the fan came with was too wide for the normal width 240 radiator I had, so I did not use it for this conversion. Some people have cut down 940 shrouds to fit the 240 radiator. 


 Here is one of these fans mounted in a 740 Turbo fan shroud, which works better.
Photos found in: https://ozvolvo.org/discussion/3316/850-electric-fan-in-240
 


<<< Again, the shroud used in these photos is a 240 Turbo (Intercooler) shroud.
The inside diameter of this shroud is 18 inches.
This particular shroud will only correctly fit the 240 Turbo.
It will NOT CLEAR the auto transmission cooling lines in a 240 non-turbo or a 740. Since a shroud normally sits further back in a Turbo intercooled car (because of the intercooler), some extra work was required to get the fan to sit deep enough into this shroud to clear the water pump. It was a tight fit when done. 


<<< And this shroud places the fan closer to the radiator, offering at least 1 inch more clearance from the water pump than a 240 Turbo shroud does. Plus it's a lot less work making it fit in a 240 engine bay.

CONCLUSION:  I believe it is better to use a 740 Turbo Fan Shroud.
I found that a shroud from a 740 Turbo
(which can be seen above) is a much better choice to mount one of these fans inside of. The 740 Turbo shroud, also with an 18 inch opening, may be used in pretty much any 740 or 240 model without any fitment issues.


OVERALL REVIEW:
  I used this fan for about a year. I was disappointed. 
Keep in mind I did NOT use rubber vent flaps.

It did not cool as quickly or as efficiently as I liked.  I believe this disappointment was because this 388 mm fan (15.27 inches) is too small. The 15.27 inch fan acted like a bottleneck during my testing. The volume of flow through the radiator with this fan was TOO SMALL (even at highway speeds).  When compared to the stock 18 inch fan shroud with a heavy duty mechanical clutch fan (which was better), it was easy to see an ACTUAL difference on my coolant gauge during warm days, on uphill grades, and especially with the A/C on.  It possibly would have worked somewhat better if it had incorporated some of those rubber vent flaps found on a 940 fan shroud.
 
For real cooling needs with AC and an intercooler blocking radiator airflow, I found that a mechanical CLUTCH FAN is probably a better choice than this one.
 

The size of the fan and the size of the shroud opening makes a difference. 
Consider how air flows through a radiator.  There is a large area in front of the radiator that "collects" the air flow.  Then as the air flow exits the back of the radiator, it must go through a SMALLER opening roughly the diameter of the fan blades. This is what I will call a funnel reduction effect, similar to pouring liquid into a funnel. You can pour the liquid faster, but the exit hole at the bottom of the funnel will only allow a certain amount through in a given time.  And yes, the fan does help to move the air through the funnel, but it has to work harder if the funnel exit is small.

Let's look at the area of a shroud opening for a few fans.
Volvo 940 fan (15.27 inches fan size, 16 inch hole): The area for a 16 inch hole is 201 square inches.
Stock belt driven fan shroud (18 inches): The area for an 18 inch hole is 254 square inches.
Circle Area Calculator: 
https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/geometry-plane/circle.php


The above fan pulls a lot of amps upon start up when using the high speed circuit only. Because I wanted to avoid sudden, hard current draws to my charging system when this fan came on, I sought out a high-tech fan controller that offered a "soft-start" feature.  I chose the Delta Current Control  FK-55.  This is an all-in-one controller and it works smoothly, so no relays or other sensors are needed. When it's time for the fan to come on, it comes on slowly and smoothly, beginning with about 20% speed until more speed is needed. It regulates your radiator temperature by smoothly increasing or reducing fan speed, instead of on, off, on, off, like the old school method. Definitely not cheap. 

PROBLEMS WITH DELTA CURRENT CONTROL (DCC) CONTROLLERS
UPDATE Summer 2012:  I'm sorry to report that I can no longer recommend the controllers from Delta Current Control.  I had two of them fail after less than 2 years of use each. This makes a $180 controller way too expensive if it can't be reliable.  And to make matters worse, the owner of DCC, Brian Baskin, has found it impossible to respond to emails, even if you place an order.  When I placed an order for a third controller in 2012 my order went unanswered for 6 weeks.  No email, no order status info, no communication. Nothing.  I had to dispute the purchase with Paypal to get my money back after my order and emails went unanswered for 6 weeks. And yes, my car was down the whole 6 weeks.

Instead, out of desperation I bought a Flex-a-Lite "variable speed" controller.  See the below Ford fan conversion for more info on that.







CONVERSION PROJECT #3  (2010)
Ford Thunderbird SC 17.5 inch Fan
Originally found in 1989-93 T-Bird, 3.8L Supercharged.
WORKS WELL IN HOTTER CLIMATES AND WITH AC.
All of my electric fan projects over the years were for Volvos with AIR CONDITIONING. So keep that in mind when you tell yourself YOU didn't need a fan that big.  Maybe you didn't, but if you add AC (and an INTERCOOLER) that seriously changes the whole game, especially in a hot climate.

In 2010 I did this conversion for my 242 Turbo: This exact fan is only found in the 1989-93 Thunderbird SC and Mercury Cougar SC (supercharged 3.8 liter 6 cyl). The depth of this unit from the fan motor to the front of the fan is only 3.75 inches (a little bit less than the 940 fan).  This fan is similar to the more common V8 Ford T-Bird fan or Lincoln Mark VIII fan, except this version is slightly smaller in diameter and a little less deep (from motor to fan), so it seems to fit in a smaller space.  It has been "suggested" that these fans will pull an estimated 4000 CFM on high. I would not use this fan with a mediocre charging system.

The circular portion on the Ford T-Bird SC shroud is 17.5 inches across, so after some chopping, as seen in these photos, it fits very well into the 18 inch opening of a Volvo 740 Turbo fan shroud.  I sought out this fan because after using a belt-driven heavy duty tropical fan clutch for years in my 242 Turbo, I was spoiled by how great it cooled.  I tried the smaller 940 fan above for a while. I was disappointed.  It did not cool as quickly or as efficiently as I liked.  I believe this disappointment was because the 15 inch fan became a bottleneck and the volume of air-flow through the radiator was reduced (even at highway speeds) compared to the stock shroud with an 18 inch opening and a mechanical fan. It was easy to see a difference on uphill grades, especially with the A/C on.


 Here's the Ford fan next to the 740 Turbo shroud that I mounted it in.

 
The Ford shroud needed to be cut down, separating the fan and circular ring that was then mounted into the Volvo shroud. 
I used a friction cutting wheel to trim the Ford shroud, which worked ok... not the best choice job.  A sawzall with a fine blade would work much better on this plastic.



Here are in-progress assembly pics and the completed fan. The last pic shows it mounted in my 242 Turbo.  
This T-Bird fan is a two-speed fan, like the 940 fan, except this one is much more powerful.  The low speed on this fan probably pulls at least as much air as the high speed on a 940 fan.  I have read that the high speed on this fan pulls between 35 and 40 amps when running continuously. So this is NOT a fan for a light-weight charging system.  A large capacity alternator (100 amp), heavy cables to the fan motor and a high capacity relay (50 to 70 amp) would be a good recommendation. 

For my 8 page assortment of relay wiring diagram options, including two-speed fan circuits, click here (pdf file). 

 
The diameter of the round barrel portion of this fan fits pretty well into the 740 shroud opening. The main problem with this fan is they don't appear to be very easy to find and there doesn't seem to be an aftermarket replacement. Using the larger Mark VIII fan below is not possible because the round barrel is larger than the 740 shroud barrel. A decent possibility for an available fan to fit inside this shroud is the single Ford Taurus fan further below. I haven't tried this. If you havem please let me know how it worked out.
 



PROBLEMS WITH DELTA CURRENT CONTROL (DCC) CONTROLLERS: 
At one time I used DCC controllers. I can
no longer recommend the fan controllers from Delta Current Control.  I had two of them fail after 2 years of use each. This makes a $180 controller way too expensive if it can't be reliable.  And to make matters worse, the owner of DCC, Brian Baskin, absolutely would not respond to emails.  My third and LAST order to replace the second bad unit resulted in NO ORDER CONFIRMATION EMAIL and he absolutely would not respond to any emails. This went on for 6 weeks.  No communication, period. And my car was down all this time.  I finally had to dispute the purchase with Paypal to get my money back. 

There are a few options for controlling a primary electric fan like this.  The old school method is using a relay (or multiple relays). Relays are pretty reliable, but electronic temperature switches are not always as good in the long term.  I installed one of the above 2-speed T-Bird fans in a friend's 240 many years ago and used I used a Hayden 3654 adjustable fan switch (shown at left. It was about $40 at Summit Racing) to turn on the fan low speed circuit for normal cooling needs. Typically I would set a controller at 180 to 190 degrees F, depending on the coolant thermostat being used.

Then for this installation I used a separate heavy duty 70 amp relay to trigger the high speed circuit, which was then wired to a standard Volvo on/off temp sender in the radiator (outlet side). This temp sender was there to trigger the high speed if the outlet temp exceeded approximately 210 degrees F, which would happen as a failsafe if the Hayden fan switch failed.  I also put an override switch on the dash to turn on the high speed circuit manually if needed.  This type of installation functioned well in hot SoCal summers using the A/C for many years, but of course the Hayden controller did eventually FAIL after several years and the engine was saved by the failsafe design.
<<< The photo at left is the Flex-A-Lite 33054 "Variable" Speed Controller. At time of writing this, Flex-A-Lite made these in 35 and 45 amp versions. The 33054 is the heavy duty 45 amp version, reportedly designed to run multiple fans if needed.  I bought this 33054 from Summit Racing for about $100 and it was in use in my black 242 Turbo (installed summer of 2012) with the big Ford fan shown above until it failed at a really bad time in 2016.  It was wired to control the fan high speed circuit only. 

This controller was actually more reliable (lasted longer) than the Delta controllers that failed (just a little).  After installing it, I discovered that this fan controller is not really a true variable speed controller.  This controller uses a probe in the radiator fins and when the set temperature is reached, it will turn the fan on at 60% power (set point is adjustable from 160 to 210 degrees F).  If the radiator temperature increases more than 10 degrees above your set temperature, the fan switches to 100%. 
So the reality is this controller is a 2-speed controller, instead of a true variable speed controller.
That was a disappointment to me, since the big Ford fan can cool quite well at very low speeds (maybe 25-30%) under light load and this controller can't do that. This controller will also operate your fan(s) for up to 30 seconds after shutting off the car if it reads a high enough temperature.  And of course it has the connections to add the A/C "ON" circuit (turns on at 60% continuous) as well as circuits for a manual override "ON" switch and manual override "OFF" switch if you want.  The installation instructions for the Flex-A-Lite 33054 can be seen here: http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/flx-33054.pdf

If you're looking for a true Zero to 100% variable speed fan controller that can handle a BIG fan, you might have a look at my
AutoCoolGuy installation HERE.

FINAL NOTE: I'm a fan of fitting larger radiators when possible, especially when running AC, but there is prior planning needed when it comes to a 240 Turbo.  The standard Volvo intercooler configuration limits the radiator width to the stock dimension.  So if you go wider, you must plan to install a different intercooler so you can route intake tubes around the wider radiator.  More info on this subject can be found below or CLICK HERE.

You can also go with a taller radiator. It's even possible to install a 19 inch tall radiator where normally the limit is 17 inches tall.  Don't believe me? See the following Turbobricks thread:  https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=296380






CONVERSION PROJECT #4  (2014)
Griffin Radiator and Lincoln Mark VIII 18 inch Fan

WORKS VERY WELL IN HOTTER CLIMATES, EVEN WITH AC!
All of my electric fan projects over the years were for Volvos with AIR CONDITIONING.
So keep that in mind when you tell yourself YOU didn't need a fan that big.  Maybe you didn't, but if you add AC (and an INTERCOOLER) that seriously changes the whole game, especially in a hot climate. 
 I decided I wanted a fatter (and WIDER) radiator. 
I bought this one from Griffin Radiator.  This is PN 1-55221-X, which is in their UNIVERSAL radiator section. The overall size is 26 x 15.5 inches, 3 inches thick, and it has two rows of 1.25 inch tubes.
For that 26 inch width, the core takes up about 21.5 inches and each side tank is about 2.25 inches.
A stock 240 radiator is about
22 x 17.5 inches overall.

The inlet and outlet sizes I chose are 1.38" OD.
FYI:
They call this radiator a universal fit "Chevy style".
Price was about $350. 
It can be ordered with or without a top radiator cap flange. Volvo 240s normally don't use a radiator cap, but I find it becomes very useful with filling with coolant. So I ordered it with the radiator cap flange. The cap that fits is Stant PN 10230 or 10231.
 
I then had aluminum male AN fittings welded on the right side tank. The top fitting is AN -6 MALE for the hose to the expansion/overflow tank. The lower fitting is AN -10 MALE for the water-cooled turbo hose tee in the lower hose.



LINCOLN MARK VIII (Mark 8) FAN

The Lincoln Mark VIII fan is legendary and massive.
This fan assembly is roughly the correct width for this new radiator I bought (after trimming off the four protruding mounting ears), so it fits tight, but fairly well. 
This fan pulls 40 amps at full speed (at 14v plus). Some reports say it pulls nearly 4000 CFM. I don't know if that rating is accurate, but there are also people claiming to get 4000 CFM from a Volvo 940 fan. NOT A CHANCE!  That is NOT realistic at all from the over-rated 940 fan. 
But, if you're tired of trying out fans that just aren't enough for your hot climate, like the over-rated 940 or 850 fan (
and if you have AC), you might think about one like this.
My preference is to have a fan that has huge capacity, more than needed, because I think it's better to have a fan that does not need to be running at full speed all the time to do a good job.  This fan does that for me.

Lincoln Mark VIII (Mark 8)
7 BLADE FAN

I bought this NEW complete fan assembly for my 242 several years ago. 
I think this one was originally for a 1997 model (Lincoln made the Mark VIII until 1998).
It's supposedly a SINGLE SPEED type and can typically be found as Ford PN F7LH-8C607-AB or F7LH-8146-AA.
 
Later Ford/Lincoln single speed fans were originally designed for a VARIABLE SPEED CONTROLLER.  Earlier fans were designed as two-speed versions.

The 7-blade fan/shroud assembly I bought below in 2014 was an AFTERMARKET part, Four Seasons PN 75627.
It appears the same fan can also be found as TYC PN 620950 (made in China).

All Single speed fans use the same connector (below) as dual speed fans.
A single speed fan will use
the two OUTER terminals only.


I tested this 7 blade fan below in 2016 and the
below results can be used for your own comparison.

Dimensions:
The fan outer ring measures 18 inches in diameter. The inside opening on the shroud where the fan sits is almost 19 inches.
The plastic shroud is 26 inches wide using the mounting tabs or 21.75 inches wide without the tabs (I cut the tabs off of my shroud before using).
The shroud is 19 inches tall overall, measuring at the outside of the shroud ring, and 5.5 inches deep to the back of the fan motor.

Weight: The complete assembly is about 8.8 lbs.
  More info here: http://forums.tccoa.com/6-general-tech/136722-ultimate-mark-viii-fan-thread.html

 

If you need to disassemble this fan it will
not be easy. Mine had rivets holding the motor to the shroud, which would need to be drilled out.
 


TEST RESULTS
Lincoln Mark VIII (Mark 8) 7 Blade Fan, Four Seasons PN 75627.

FORD PNs: F7LH-8C607-AB, F7LH-8146-AA, F4SZ8C607D.

Tested at 12.7 volts (static battery voltage, engine not running). It ran at a maximum speed of 1800 rpm. Current used: 33.6 Amps.
Also tested at 14 volts (engine running with alternator charging). It ran full speed at 2000 rpm.  Current used:  40 Amps.

The above fan assembly that I purchased is not a genuine Ford part. It was an aftermarket part from Four Seasons, PN 75627. This fan can also be found as TYC PN 620950 (made in China).
I don't know if a 7-blade fan performs any better than a 6-blade fan.

Fan speed testing was done using an inexpensive hobby optical tachometer below: Turnigy Micro Tacho. This meter can be set to measure 2 to 9 blade fans. Priced under $20.00.
Amperage usage was measured using this Digital 0 to 100 Amp meter. Price: $15.00. https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-6-5-100V
 

Here's some more Mark VIII test data that you might find useful.
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=844502
Taken from above discussion:
The stock Ford OEM fan flowed the most, followed very closely with the Dorman 620-118 then the TYC-620950. The Dorman is made in Thailand and the TYC in China. The Dorman seems superior as they revamped the fan blade design and flowed closest to the stock design. With higher voltage on high speed I can see these fans getting close to 3800-4000CFM at 14.4V.
Without a radiator in front the low speed amperage dropped 3-5 amps and the full speed only about an amp or so. Results were as follows:

Stock Ford fan: High speed: 3415 CFM. 22 amps @ 12.7 volts.
Low speed : 2800 CFM. 18 amps @ 13.7 Volts.

Dorman: High speed: 3355 CFM. 22 amps @ 12.7 volts.
Low speed: 2578 CFM. 16 amps @ 13.7 volts.

TYC: High speed: 3116 CFM. 22 amps @ 12.7 volts.
Low speed: 2578 CFM. 17 amps @ 13.7 volts.


SO WHY DO I NEED SUCH A MASSIVE FAN?
In most driving conditions, I don't. The FIRST reason I'm using this big fan is that I like having the potential for more capacity than I need. 
The SECOND reason is that I have a big radiator with an intercooler blocking half of it's airflow, plus a big AC condenser blocking everything. And I live in a state that gets over 100 degrees in the summer. Plus I drive my car across the country and across deserts to Volvo events at least once per year. So I drive through some very hot places.
So in summary, I like my car to stay cool and I like the AC to work when it's needed.

Please email me if you have any questions or comments.
CONTACT



2021 Fan Change for My 240
Lincoln Mark VIII 6 Blade Fan

It was time for a new fan.
You can still get this fan assembly (believed to be for pre-1997 cars), which will look like this one below. 
This is the aftermarket
Dorman PN 620-118. An aftermarket version like this will typically cost under $100 for the complete fan and motor assembly with shroud as shown. 

This fan: Dorman 620-118, is reported by some sources to be a 2-speed version. It has 6 blades and is made in Taiwan.

Dimensions: The plastic shroud is 26 inches wide using the mounting tabs or 21.75 inches wide without the tabs. The shroud is 19 inches tall at the outer ring and 5.5 inches deep to the back of the fan motor. The complete assembly weighs about 8.8 lbs.



If you need to disassemble this fan, the motor and fan is fastened using nuts/bolts.
 More info here:
http://forums.tccoa.com/6-general-tech/136722-ultimate-mark-viii-fan-thread.html


Some Unconfirmed Mark VIII Fan part numbers and speed info I found on the internet:
(Yes . . . totally UNCONFIRMED, but maybe useful)
1993-96 Mark VIII PN F3LY8C607A. Rotation is reportedly 1100 rpm on low and 1850 rpm on high.
1997 Mark VIII uses PN F7LZ8C607AB
1998 Mark VIII uses PN F8LZ8C607AA.  Later alleged 2-speed version rpm 1800 rpm on low and 2225 rpm on high (those speeds sound too high to me. might not be accurate).

Ford Fan Motor Connector.
Motorcraft PN WPT-362, Ford PN
3U2Z-14S411-ESA. Fits Lincoln Mark VIII and probably some other Ford fans. 
A google search will find them in a few places. I have only found them available with 12 gauge wire pigtails.  In my opinion that's barely adequate for such a powerful fan. I changed to 8 gauge welding cable.


If you're using a SINGLE SPEED fan, then you will be using the two OUTER terminals only for high power and ground.
A dual speed fan may also be used as a single speed fan by using the outer terminals only.



Dorman Conduct-Tite Terminal

AKA: Ford Standard Block Technician Terminal. This is the terminal that goes into the above Ford fan motor connector.
This is considered to be a high-current terminal, because of the "tongue' design, which provides a wide contact patch. Dorman offers this as PN 85367 which fits 14-16 gauge wire. A 10-12 gauge version (or even larger) would be much better, however so far it DOES NOT EXIST. 


I improvised and used this 14-16 gauge terminal since I couldn't find larger ones. I added one of my large terminal overcrimps to make a solid, tight crimp for the 8 gauge welding cable I used.  Then I covered with heat shrink.

 When inserting this terminal into the back of the Ford connector housing with the extra fat 8 gauge welding cable, it can be a little tight going in. I opened up the holes slightly on the back of the connector to accommodate the fat insulation.  If necessary, a little trimming of the inside of the housing with a hobby knife will help it go in and click.  Mine then went in and clicked in place without an issue.


FAN FAILURES

If you search the internet you'll find some comments about some fan failures that have occurred, similar to the below photo. This photo below is a Four Seasons aftermarket fan that failed completely because the GROUND connector terminal overheated and melted. 
These small terminals are forced to carry a LOT OF CURRENT and it's believed this happened because of poor contact, probably due to some corrosion and/or maybe the terminal contact with the spade connector was loose. 


It appears most failures like this have been when these high-amp fans were wired to a relay that runs them at FULL SPEED for a long period of time. This problem will be be less likely if the fan is wired to run at a lower speed for most running. Even better would be using a PWM controller, which runs the fan at slower speeds until more air is needed.
Still, it's a potential problem that you should keep in mind and watch for if your high-amp fan gets very heavy use.

SOLUTIONS:
Some people have said that using simple .250 inch (6.3 mm) female spade terminals (without using the Ford plastic connector housing) worked better for them. 
If you decide to do something similar, I recommend that you READ THE BELOW INFO FIRST.


This normal .250 inch terminal below looks like it can handle a large load, but it won't.
The designers have rated it at about 7 amps continuous and 14-23 amps maximum.
So I would NOT use one of these for a fan that can draw 40 amps.



This is a TE Dynamic 5000 Series .250 inch (6.3 mm) terminal, PN 1318696-6 or 1318697-6.

It's a special high current SILVER PLATED terminal, which is rated at 45 amps. 


This terminal is designed to use up to 8 gauge cable. 
These are a little more expensive compared to other terminals. More info: https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1318696-6.html.
These terminals will slide onto the male spades in the fan motor (without using a connector housing if necessary).
They are slightly larger than a standard Ford terminal, so they will not directly fit inside the Ford connector housing without slightly modifying it, but with a few minutes of work, THEY WILL FIT (pics below).
So you can try that or use them without the connector housing and cover them with heat shrink.
When I tried them out I found it would be better to squeeze them slightly so they fit the spade a little tighter.
This TE terminal is also available for smaller 10-12 gauge cable as PN 179956-6 or 316041-6. 



Here's a pic showing the TE-5000 terminals covered in heat shrink and inserted into the fan without a Ford connector housing.


And here are some pics showing the TE-5000 terminals fitted into a modified Ford connector housing.
The modification was done by using a small set of wire cutters to trim the inner plastic walls until the terminals would slide all the way in and click into place. This makes for a nicer, more factory looking connection. Plus this method makes the terminals more secure, so they won't accidentally pull out or vibrate loose.


NOW these terminals are securely held in place AND large 8 gauge cables are attached.

 


Another option if another if needed:
This is the Aptiv (formerly known as Delphi) .250 inch (6.3 mm) terminal, PN 06288913-L.

It's a fairly common high current tin plated terminal for up to 10 gauge cable. It's rated at up to 48 amps.
The design of that flat tongue is the key to more contact area for high current connections.




After trimming off the mounting tabs from the Mark VIII shroud,
I fabricated a steel frame to brace the inside TOP of the shroud. This was important to fully support the weight of this shroud and fan (about 9 lbs) using the top radiator ans fan brackets I made shown below.  This brace was made of 1/2 x 1/8 inch steel bar. This is pretty typical metal bar stock found at many local hardware stores. I bought bolts and clip-on barrel nuts (AKA: U-Nuts) from McMaster-Carr. The bolts are PN 98093A436, M6 x 1.0 mm, 16mm long with a flange head (see photo). These have a 10 mm head. The clip-on barrel nuts are PN 95210A150, thread size M6 x 1.0 mm made for a panel thickness of 0.8 to 4 mm.



 


 Here's the Griffin radiator and Mark VIII fan installed in my 240. 
As you can see the original style intercooler is gone since it no longer fits and instead I installed an eBay intercooler in front of the radiator with new pipes going around the radiator.  This radiator is WIDE and there is barely enough room to keep the battery in the original location, but it still fits.



Here's a bottom view of the Mark VIII fan.
Yes, the Mark VIII shroud is taller than the radiator by several inches.  This is fixed by adding some aluminum sheet metal to seal the gap. It's securely fastened and then some duct tape added to seal the bottom.



After the above fan installation I continued using the Flex-A-Lite 33054 Variable Speed Controller that I had previously installed in conversion #3.  As I mentioned before, I was disappointed in this controller after I discovered that it's actually only a 2-speed controller instead of a true variable speed controller. I really would rather have had something that begins spinning the fan at 10% or 20% or 30% instead of beginning at 60% low speed like this controller does. This controller does have an AC mode, but that puts the fan at 100%, which is ludicrous when you have a Mark VIII fan. 
Anyway, this Flex-A-Lite controller had a complete MELT-DOWN in 2016
on a hot day when I had the AC going and while in line to pull into a car meet. 
So this one is definitely NOT recommended for a large fan.




CONVERSION PROJECT #5 (2016)
This project still used the
Lincoln Mark VIII 18 inch Fan
I didn't make any fan changes for this project. After the Flex-A-Lite fan controller above melted in 2016, out of DESPERATION I decided to try building my own controller.
I had concluded that NONE of the available high-tech PWM fan controllers out there could survive with a big 40 amp Ford fan.
This is a Custom 4-speed (relay-based) fan controller.
All of my electric fan projects over the years were for Volvos with AIR CONDITIONING. So keep that in mind when you tell yourself YOU didn't need a fan that big.  Maybe you didn't, but if you add AC (and an INTERCOOLER) that seriously changes the whole game, especially in a hot climate.  
CLICK THE IMAGE TO GO TO THIS PAGE

Here's the detailed project page: https://www.240turbo.com/fanharness.html.
  It worked pretty well and I used it for a couple years. It never failed for any reason.
Then in 2018 I found a new, high-capacity PWM fan controller (below) that could finally actually handle the load of a huge fan. 






CONVERSION PROJECT #6 (2018)
Still using the Lincoln Mark VIII 18 inch Fan
I didn't make any fan changes this time, but I decided I would try a
High Capacity PWM Controller made by AutoCoolGuy.


Not too long after completing the above 4-speed fan controller project back in 2016, I discovered these high-capacity controllers being made by AutoCoolGuy.  These controllers were very interesting and they had some features not usually found elsewhere.  Being stubborn, I stayed with my DIY 4-speed controller for a couple years and it worked well, but I was interested in trying out one of these below, so I finally did that in summer 2018.
Some of the Autocoolguy features I liked:
  • They have controllers made for all the way up to 200 amps.
  • I couldn't find ANY complaints online about failing controllers or problems with their customer service anywhere, and I searched hard.
  • They make controllers with an independent AC speed setting which is actually adjustable.  I really like this feature.  Running a big Mark VIII fan at a really high speed for AC is ludicrous unless you really need it.
  • They offer a wide variety of temperature sender options.
  • Their controllers are made to use a dash controlled FULL SPEED OVERRIDE switch if desired.
  • And when I sent them an email (on a Sunday) asking some questions about controllers for my big fan, they actually responded, on the same day!

There are now a number of videos on YouTube from users showing how these controllers work.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=autocoolguy





 So here's the Auto Cool III that I installed in my 242 Turbo in November 2018 to control my Lincoln Mark VIII fan.  It's a 125 amp PWM fan controller.  It's internally fused for 150 amps. 

An explanation of the HOT-WARM temperature adjustment knob is found is this PDF from Autocoolguy:
https://www.autocoolguy.com/8511caac6.pdf


This controller can run one or two fans. 
When running ONE FAN like I am, the output posts (FAN A and FAN B) are combined as shown below.  The controlled output to my fan then comes from a cable on the FAN A post on the left. 

It may seem a bit backwards, but these controllers are designed so that the 12v cable from the battery goes directly to the FAN POSITIVE.  Then the fan gets controlled by the negative cable, which comes from the FAN A or FAN B posts (or both in my case). 
The full installation PDF and diagram for this controller can be seen here:
https://www.autocoolguy.com/8511ca.pdf



 That's a 3 amp fuse I added between the battery power and the controller 12v input, to provide switched power to the controller.


 Here are all the input pins on top. 
Hooking this thing up is pretty simple. Pins 7 and 8 (the two white wires on the right) are for the full speed dash override switch. These contacts are labeled F/S (for "FailSafe") and Ground). When those two pins are bridged, the fan runs at full speed.

The AC speed adjustment trim pot is beneath that round black cap.


 Here's the AC trim pot from above. 
I used a photo tachometer to measure fan blade speed and I set the AC speed at 1300 rpm, which was about 65% of maximum speed (2000 rpm at 14.5 volts).



 Here's the default universal temperature sensor that comes with this controller.

This is the default sensor you get, unless you order one of their optional screw-in sensors.  It's designed to partially slip under the radiator outlet hose and may be used on any ALL METAL radiator.  It's not for radiators with plastic outlets.  This is the sensor I used for my all-aluminum radiator.  It comes with long wire leads wound as twisted pair for signal protection. Autocoolguy recommends a goal of getting coolant temperatures at the radiator outlet to be 15 to 20║F below your thermostat setting.


  Or you may optionally choose a threaded screw-in sensor with a few different thread options, if you can use such a sensor. Autocoolguy recommends placing this near the radiator outlet. 
 
NOTE: AutoCoolGuy does not offer universal push-in sensor probes for the radiator fins.
They say that they don't believe in those due to inaccuracy.  Not a problem.  The above universal sensor worked well for me, but eventually I plan to add a threaded bung to my radiator for a screw-in sensor.
If needed, they also offer an in-line hose adapter below.



 Here's the fan full speed override switch I put on my dash below.
I had seen a LOT of previous fan controllers FAIL over the years, which made me paranoid.
Having an override switch is a really good thing, even if only for nothing but peace of mind.  I also added an LED light that lights up when the fan is on.  It lights up dimly at low speeds and brighter at high speeds.
This is also a really good thing for people like me
who have developed electric cooling fan anxiety.


AutoCoolGuy has a diagram for wiring this LED in their web page HERE (ALSO SHOWN BELOW).  In the instructions they show the use of a 1.5k Ohm resistor in line with the power wire for the LED, which will reduce the brightness and give it a much longer life.  I found that a 1.5k Ohm resistor was not sufficient.  My LED was still too bright and it really lit up the interior of the car at night. 
So I switched to a 10k Ohm resistor
and the brightness seems about right and won't blind me at night.  Maybe some 12v LEDs are brighter than others.


If you have any feedback or comments, please let me know:
CONTACT


What is the BUZZ or No-BUZZ mentioned in AutoCoolGuy's webpage?
I was curious too. From what I've learned, there are some fans that are prone to making a buzzing sound at some speeds when receiving PWM input. AutoCoolGuy describes this as
a mechanical issue in some fans which have a blade and armature tolerance that's not as tight as it should be.  They said many Asian made fans seem to have this issue, but many Ford or other American made fans do not.  There is more info in the AutoCoolGuy site as well as some videos of this buzzing in action. Basically, if you have a fan that does this and it bugs you enough to do something about it, then there are remedies.  AutoCoolGuy offers an add-on Buzz Box that can be connected between the controller and fan to suppress the buzzing. They also have a couple of controllers with extra no-buzz circuitry built into them. 
I DID NOT order a No-Buzz controller.  I have not heard any buzzing noises from aftermarket Four Seasons or Dorman Mark VIII fans.


Here's a basic diagram of an Autocoolguy controller from their site.





Big FUSE for a BIG FAN
Adding a fuse to any power circuit is a good idea. The big Mark VIII fan is no exception, however I caution you to choose a high-quality fuse that will not MELT when subjects to large loads. I have seen cheap ones MELT.
I chose to add a Maxi Fuse Holder from Blue Sea Systems PN 5006100 (with a 50 amp fuse) to the big power cable to the fan.
When you shop for a Maxi Fuse holder, keep in mind that a lot of current will be going through it. I have seen several cheap Maxi Fuse holders melt from heat caused by poor contacts at the fuse blades.  I chose this one below from Blue Sea Systems because the contacts looked really good and strong and it's rated to 80 amps.
This fuse holder can be seen at: https://www.bluesea.com/products/5006100/MAXI_Fuse_Block
 




 
Other Ford Fans

I have NOT personally used this fan. 
Much of this info has been contributed by other people who wanted to help. If you can help or have any comments or corrections of any info here, please email me.
FORD TAURUS FAN

This is a popular fan for custom projects.  Keep in mind that there is more than one Taurus fan version, depending on the year. Most people referring to this fan are talking about the ABOVE image, which came on approx. 1990-94 Ford Taurus with V6.
This fan is sometimes referred to as a 17 or 18 inch fan.  The actual fan diameter at the outer ring attached to the blades is 16.5 inches.
The shroud inner opening is about 17 inches.
 This complete fan and shroud assembly is available as an aftermarket replacement from Dorman, PN 620-101.

The connector supplied with the fan is a 3-pole female plug as shown here.  A mating male plug pigtail is listed as Ford PN WPT706, which may no longer be available.

Installing a Salvage Yard Taurus Fan
 

Wes B. sent photos above of a salvage yard fan he pulled from a 1988 Ford Taurus.
He trimmed off the shroud plastic, except for the ring that supports the fan, and he inserted that into the above Volvo 740 TURBO shroud. It fit pretty well and this offers a larger electric fan alternative, which is 1.7 inches larger than a Volvo 850 fan.


Here's how Wes mounted his intercooler below and then the radiator behind it and then the shroud/fan combo in his 240. 
There's plenty of clearance between the fan and water pump pulley.  Wes said the Taurus fan was mounted inside the shroud with only a small amount of clearance between the fan and radiator.




Other Jeep, Chrysler, Mopar Fans
I have NOT personally used these yet. 

Much of this info has been contributed by other people who wanted to help. If you can help or have any comments or corrections of any info here, please email me.

Ferry H from the Netherlands began sending me some of his research when he was looking for a large fan for his car project
.
  
The above radiator fan is identified as PN 52079528AB. It's reportedly an 18 inch cooling fan used in a Jeep/Chrysler/Mopar with 4 liter and 4.7 liter V8 and 3 liter diesel engines.
There is also an aftermarket fan, Dorman PN 620-010, that appears to match this Jeep part number. 

A fan like this may be a good fit into a stock Volvo 240 or 740 mechanical fan shroud, although I HAVE NOT TRIED THAT. 
It may be worth exploring as a much large
r option than the small Volvo 940-850 15 inch fans people have been using for years.
These fans appear to have been used in Jeeps since about the year 2000, so they may be fairly easy to hunt down in a salvage yard.


DORMAN 620-041 (for JEEP)
Matt F. from South Carolina emailed me about this fan below, which he pulled from a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4L.
While this fan pictured has 7 blades, the current photos for the Dorman 620-041 found online seem to show a 6 blade fan.
This fan is reportedly about 18 or 19 inches in diameter at the outside of the shroud (depending on WHERE you measure. It has been advertised with a fan area of 226 square inches (suggesting it has a 17 inch actual fan blade size). It's pictured below next to the smaller Volvo 850 fan, which it replaced in Matt's 1999 Dodge Durango 5.2L.



DORMAN 620-041
If you have one of these fans, your comments are appreciated.
NOTE: The blades do protrude past the "shroud" on the fan at the FRONT and the mounting ears are in the middle of the shroud about an inch from the front, so some spacers may be needed if using those mounting ears to set a comfortable fan distance from the radiator.

The electrical operation of this fan is a bit unusual. Applying power to either hot wire individually results in LOW speed. It appears BOTH "+" wires must be powered for HIGH speed.


According to Matt's anemometer when plugging in the 226 inch▓ area, this fan pulls 2500 CFM on HIGH SPEED through his radiator and A/C condenser combo. 2000 CFM on LOW SPEED. 
High current draw was measured at about 25 amps at 14v.

These are similar flow numbers to a Taurus 3.8 two-speed fan, although maybe with higher current draw. This Jeep fan was far easier to mount though. 

COMPARED TO VOLVO 850 FAN
Matt previously ran a Volvo 850 two speed fan on this same vehicle.  He didn't measure flow rate, but airspeed through his radiator was 8 ft/s.  Measuring in the same place on the radiator with this Jeep fan (using the same shroud, radiator, and AC condenser) resulted in 10-11 ft/s.
 


UPDATE SEPTEMBER 2021
I received an email from Phil Z. in Tokyo, Japan. The original fan in his Nissan 180SX was poor, so after some deliberation he decided to try mounting this Dorman 620-041 to his original shroud.
He contacted Dorman and received some info on the flow rate. According to Dorman, this fan is rated at 68.49 cmm on LOW SPEED and 79.03 cmm on HIGH SPEED.
This translates to 2429 CFM low and 2890
CFM high.
Amperage draw is reportedly 15 and 19 amps at 12v.


Some of these big fans were reportedly used in Jeep Grand Cherokees. This fan pictured is similar to the above fan and is PN 52079528AD.

The Dorman PN 620-041 above also appears to match this Jeep part number: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-620-041-Radiator-Fan-Assembly/dp/B003S9IDUE



The original Jeep/Chrysler fans reportedly used Bosch motors. There is a Mopar Part Number of CBG4F250 shown here, which may correspond to a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.0 or 4.7 liter V8 engine.  The 4000 CFM rating listed in this photo has not been otherwise confirmed.  This part number also seems to correspond to some of the already mentioned numbers above when you search eBay, so it may be no different than those above.

If anyone can help confirm any FAN DIMENSION info, please email me.








  Wider Radiator and Dual Fan Info
If you can help with any of this info, please email me.

I thought I would collect some useful info on this subjects and put it here for future reference.
I have not bought or used any of these parts below.  If you do, please email me.


Here's a popular dual fan setup that a lot of people seem to be using for custom installations.
This dual 12 inch fan setup is from a Ford Contour or Mercury Mystique. It reportedly offers about 3,500 CFM in a compact, factory-style assembly. This fan shroud (minus the outer mounting brackets) is 24.25 inches wide, 16.75 inches tall, and 3.5 inches deep to the backs of the fan motors. To use a dual fan setup like this you'll need a radiator with an approximate overall size of about 28 x 17 inches. That's tight in a 240 as you'll see below.
Dorman PN 620-104.  Cost: about $100.00.



Matt F from South Carolina wrote me about his testing of this fan (a used Ford version from a salvage yard) in his 1986 Porsche 928. With the engine running, charging system at 13.5v, he got just over 1200 CFM per fan on high. He hasn't measured current draw with it in the car, but on a jump box it was about 20 amps on high.  He measured 0.5-0.6 ohms resistance across the fans, so he estimated they would be in the 24-27 amp range at 13.5v and probably closer to 30 amps at 14v.





The main problem with a dual fan setup like this is getting a wide enough radiator to fit in the car. 
For a Volvo 240 there is a limiting factor for fitting the radiator between the front frame rails.
The Volvo 260 had a larger radiator than the 240, so using these dimensions for comparisons may be useful.  Just keep in mind that a wider radiator means the stock intercooler will not fit.
Volvo 260 Radiator Overall: 17.5 inches high, 29.75 inches wide, 4.5 inches deep.
Volvo 260 Radiator Core: 17.5 inches high, 23.25 inches wide, 2 inches deep.

Stock Volvo 240 radiator dimensions.
Volvo 240 Radiator Overall: 17.5 inches high, 22 inches wide, 2 inches deep.
Volvo 240 Radiator Core: 17.5 inches high, 16.38 inches wide, 1.25 inches deep.

If you want to use a dual fan setup like to Ford Contour above, you should have a radiator with an approximate overall size of approximately 28 x 17 inches.
 
Looking at the Volvo 240 image below, you will see there is approximately 29 inches between the frame rails. This sounds like a lot, but
if you have intercooler tubes going around both sides of the radiator and/or a BATTERY in the original location, that will limit the room you have for a wider radiator. This means you must push the radiator toward the right side of the car to make room. The limit with a battery and intercooler tubes may be roughly the size of the GREEN rectangle below, up to about 26 x 17 inches.

If you don't have anything in the way and you're using a non-turbo engine or installing a V8, then you'll have more room to work with This is represented by the BLUE rectangle below, roughly a maximum of about 29 x 17 inches.



If you're moving toward a custom radiator, Griffin Radiator offers some interesting custom fan shroud designs.  I think the dual fan shroud shown here that extends the sides outward is an intriguing design, since it allows for large fans than a normal dual fan shroud would offer. 
https://www.griffinrad.com/fan_shrouds.php


Can Dual Fans flow more than ONE fan
I think most people look at dual fans and instantly think "YES" it will flow more.  But the size of the fan and the size (or AREA) of the hole makes all the difference. 

Consider how air flows through a radiator.  There is a large area in front of the radiator which "collects" or "funnels" the air flow.  Then as the air flow exits the back of the radiator, it must go through a SMALLER opening, which is the size of the fan blade opening or shroud opening.  This is what I will call a funnel effect, similar to pouring liquid into a funnel. You can pour the liquid faster, but the exit hole of of the funnel will still only allow a limited amount through at a time. 
And yes, the fan does help to move more pressurized air through the funnel, but it has to work harder if the funnel exit is smaller.

Let's look at the area for a few fan size openings.
Lincoln Mark 8 fan (18 inch fan): The area for an 18 inch hole is 254 square inches.
Ford Contour dual fans (12 inch fans): The area for a 12 inch hole is 113 square inches (226 square inches for two fans). 
Ford Taurus 16.5 inch fan (17 inch hole):
The area for a 17 inch hole is 226 square inches.
 Volvo 940-850 fan (15.27 inch fan with 16 inch hole): The area for a 16 inch hole is 201 square inches.

Circle Area Calculator: 
https://www.calculatorsoup.com/calculators/geometry-plane/circle.php





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