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More Big Fan Info (2019)

If you know the Watt rating of a fan, you can use that to calculate Amperage.

Volvo Electric Primary Cooling Fan Conversions

Electric Fan Wire Diagrams.

Click here for my 8 page collection of relay cooling fan diagrams you can build yourself (PDF)

I began tinkering with electric primary cooling fan conversions in Volvo 240s back around 1997 after having less than a successful time keeping my '84 245 Turbo from running too hot during warm 100+ degree Southern California summers using the stock pulley fan.  I then developed this page beginning in 1999 to share this info and I've been updating it on occasion ever since.  Basically, this page will outline some fairly simple and inexpensive primary electric fan conversion ideas for Volvo 240s. Some ideas worked, some not so well. Some of these ideas also work for the 740,
however it should be noted the 740 Turbo has less room between the radiator and water pump pulley, so some fans shown in this page may not fit in the space. 

While there are many options for your Volvo when it comes to keeping cool, these are just a few. This information is presented at face value with no specific claims of magical performance, other than my own experiences.

For any electric fan installation, make sure that your fan is capable of turning itself on reliably if your engine starts to overheat.
There are two primary reasons for performing an Electric Fan Conversion. The FIRST is to reduce the engine drag at highway speeds. In theory you should gain a little horespower.
The SECOND reason would be to
reduce the amount of stress on the waterpump. 240s can go through water pumps faster than a typical car and it's a good idea to change them as preventative maintenance. The loads placed on the water pump bearings by the alternator and a huge belt-driven fan can shorten its potential service life.

You will need to decide for yourself if your fan clutch is best or if an electric fan is best. If the electric fan is big enough and really powerful, it can equal the cooling performance of a heavy duty fan clutch.  Most electric fans will not come close. Also an electric fan may not be as reliable as the mechanical fan. Electrical stuff fails.  If you decide it's best for your Volvo to keep the belt-driven fan, you may want to consider the option of a heavy duty fan clutch.  
An interesting bit of information I discovered while trying out the below electric fan conversions over the years. 
All electric fans I tried were INFERIOR in cooling capacity compared to a heavy duty tropical fan clutch
, EXCEPT for the huge fans at the bottom of this list.

More info on the Heavy Duty Tropical Fan Clutch can be found in this page: https://www.240turbo.com/TropicalFanClutch.html

VOLVO 2-Speed FAN RELAY Basics.
 Lots of people are using this relay to control 2-speed fans because it's cheap if you can find it used. 

For suggested wiring info: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/volvo_electric_fan.shtml

<<< If you need a source for the original Volvo connectors for this relay, I am now offering them here: 


I've done a few different electric fan conversions over the years. I have compiled that info below for those who might be interested:
Over many years.

GM 14 and 16 inch Fans
<<< Excuse the photo quality. This is a very old pic. This is the first electric fan conversion I did back in 1997 for my 245 Turbo. I also used this same fan for several conversions of friend's 240s. One in a 240 non-turbo was still going strong and cooling well more than 15 years later.

<<< The fan depicted at left is from an early to mid-eighties Buick Century, Pontiac Grand Am, Olds Cutlass, or other General Motors mid-sized car with FWD and 4 or 6 cylinder.   It is made by AC Delco and is designed to be the primary fan for the car it originated in.  This fan should be plentiful in self-service auto salvage yards and should cost between $20 and $30.

Dimensions for this fan are as follows:

Height and Width: 17 inches at shroud edges

Depth at shroud housing next to motor: 3 1/8 inches
Depth at rear of fan motor: approx. 4 1/4 inches

Fan blade diameter: 14 inches.

<<< A 16 inch diameter fan in the same version can also be found in some of the GM 6 cylinder cars.  The outer dimensions will be the same. This is important because this shroud is a pefect size to fit directly onto the typical Volvo 240/740 radiator.

All four of the original plastic mounting ears on the shroud need to be removed for fitment to a Volvo radiator. 
A hacksaw or sawzall does just fine here.  In this photo the ears have already been cut off, but I left them next to the fan so you could see where they came from.

<<< Since this fan will be mounted to the radiator, you'll need some mounting hardware.  The simplest method I found is with some 2 inch sheet metal screws, washers and these funny little sheet metal nuts.  The screws I used were the counter-sunk type with some counter-sunk finishing washers.  Most any will work though.

<<< This photo shows an existing hole in the top flange of the radiator.  All Volvo radiators will have these holes for mounting of the original fan shroud.  The sheet metal nut can be used here.  You will then need to drill a small hole in the GM fan shroud directly over the original hole in the radiator.

The plan is for the new fan shroud to be fastened to the radiator by four sheet metal screws, two at the top and two at the bottom.  You may need to drill the holes in the bottom radiator flange.

Here we have the new fan mounted to the radiator. 

This assembly can now be placed in the car as one unit and mounted as any Volvo radiator is mounted.

To make this fan work in your car, you have several options. You can purchase an all-in-one fan controller with a temperature probe that goes into the radiator fins. You can use a coolant sensor mounted in your radiator if it has one. 

For my 8 page assortment of relay wiring diagram options, including two-speed circuits, click here (pdf file).

Volvo 940/850 15 inch Fan

<<< Volvo 940 Cooling Fan: This is a very popular fan used in many conversions.  It's found in 1992 and later Volvo 940 and 960 models as well as all 850s.  The fan shroud has a number of vents as you can see in this photo.  These vents have rubber flaps, which allow for airflow to escape during higher speeds when the fan normally isn't needed as much for cooling.  Having these flaps in place will compensate for the fans relatively small (bottleneck) opening, which allows for more air to pass through the radiator at high speeds than would be possible without the flaps.

There is a similar fan found in the S70 and S80, however the S80 models I have seen feature a smaller, more compact motor.  I'm not sure if it's capacity is less.  All of these fans are
two-speed models, with low speed being about 50% of high speed.  The motor will have three wires; one ground and two hot wires (one for low and one for high).  A two-speed circuit may be used when you install one of these or you may use just the high circuit only. My installation used the the high speed only.

This fan is popular in part because it's easily detached from the shroud and may then be custom mounted in your own shroud or a custom one.

This fan is about 4 inches deep from the end of the motor to the furthest point on the front of the fan. The fan shown in the far left photo has been removed from the original fan shroud. One cool thing about this fan is it simply unbolts from the original shroud. No cutting or chopping needed. After it is removed, you'll find that it is about 17.5 inches across at the outer ring, which is why is fits so well into the Volvo RWD mechanical fan shrouds, which have 18 inch openings .

The actual fan blade portion on this fan is only 15 inches

For my 8 page assortment of relay wiring diagram options, including two-speed circuits, click here (pdf file).

<<< 2009 Conversion for my 242: Here are some photos showing how I mounted the fan in a 240 Turbo (intercooled) fan shroud.

The 940 shroud was too wide for the normal 240 radiator I had, so I did not use it for this conversion. Some people have cut down 940 shrouds to fit. 

<<< The shroud used in the photos here is a 240 Turbo (Intercooled) shroud. The inside diameter of this shroud is 18 inches. This particular shroud will only correctly fit the 240 Turbo. It will NOT CLEAR the auto transmission cooling lines in a 240 non-turbo or a 740. Since a shroud normally sits further back in a Turbo Intercooled car (because of the intercooler), some extra work was required to get the fan to sit deep enough into this shroud to clear the water pump. It was a tight fit when done. 
Better to use a 740 Turbo Fan Shroud:
I found that a shroud from a 740 Turbo
(which can be seen in the Ford fan conversion below) is a much better choice to mount one of these fans inside of. The 740 Turbo shroud, also with an 18 inch opening, may be used in pretty much any 740 or 240 model without any fitment issues. 

<<< And this shroud places the fan closer to the radiator, offering at least 1 inch more clearance from the water pump than a 240 Turbo shroud does. Plus it's a lot less work making it fit in a 240 engine bay.

  I used this fan for about a year. I was disappointed. 
It did not cool as quickly or as efficiently as I liked.  I believe this disapointment was because this 15 inch fan is a bottleneck and the volume of flow through the radiator and out the 15 inch fan opening was small (even at highway speeds) compared to the stock 18 inch fan shroud with a heavy duty mechanical clutch fan. It was easy to see a difference during warm days, on uphill grades, and especially with the A/C on.  It would have worked better if I had some of those vent flaps in the shroud.
>>> For real cooling needs with AC, a mechanical CLUTCH FAN is a better choice by far than this one. <<<

The above fan pulls a lot of amps upon start up when using the high speed circuit only. Because I wanted to avoid sudden, hard current draws to my charging system when this fan came on, I sought out a high-tech fan controller that offered a "soft-start" feature.  I chose the Delta Current Control  FK-55.  This is an all-in-one controller and it works smoothly, so no relays or other sensors are needed. When it's time for the fan to come on, it comes on slowly and smoothly, beginning with about 20% speed until more speed is needed. It regulates your radiator temperature by smoothly increasing or reducing fan speed, instead of on, off, on, off, like the old school method. Definitely not cheap. 

UPDATE Summer 2012:  I'm sorry to report that I can no longer recommend the controllers from Delta Current Control.  I had two of them fail after less than 2 years of use each. This makes a $180 controller way too expensive if it can't be reliable.  And to make matters worse, the owner of DCC, Brian Baskin, has found it impossible to respond to emails, even if you place an order.  When I placed an order for a third controller in 2012 my order went unanswered for 6 weeks.  No order status info, no communication, period. Nothing.  I had to dispute the purchase with Paypal to get my money back after my order and emails went unanswered for 6 weeks (and yes, my car was down the whole 6 weeks). 

  Instead I bought a Flex-a-Lite variable speed controller.  See the below Ford fan conversion for more info on that.

Ford Thunderbird SC 17.5 inch Fan

In 2010 I did this conversion for my 242 Turbo: This exact fan is only found in the T-Bird SC (with supercharged 6 cylinder) made in the late 1980's to mid-1990's. The depth of this unit from the fan motor to the front of the fan is only 3.75 inches (a little bit shallower than the 940 fan).  It is similar to the more common V8 Ford T-Bird fan or Lincoln  Mark VIII fan, except this version is a little less deep (from motor to fan) and seem to fit with less room.  It is suggested that these fans will pull an estimated 4000 cfm on high.

<<< The circular portion on the Ford shroud is 17.5 inches across, so after some chopping, as seen in these photos, it fits very well into the 18 inch opening of the Volvo 740 Turbo fan shroud.  I sought out this fan because after using a belt-driven heavy duty tropical fan clutch for years in my 242 Turbo, I was spoiled by how great it cooled. 
I tried the smaller 940 fan above for a while. I was disappointed.  It did not cool as quickly or as efficiently as I liked.  I believe this disapointment was because the 15 inch fan was a bottleneck and the volume of flow through the radiator was reduced (even at highway speeds) compared to the stock shroud with a heavy duty mechanical clutch fan. It was easy to see a difference on uphill grades, especially with the A/C on.

 <<< Here's the Ford fan next to the 740 Turbo shroud that I used to mount it in.

<<< The Ford shroud needed to be cut down, separating the fan and circular ring that was then mounted into the Volvo shroud.  I used a friction cutting wheel to trim the Ford shroud, which worked ok... not the best job.  A sawzall with a fine blade would work much better on this plastic.

<<< Here's the in-progress assembly and completed fan. The last pic shows it mounted in my 242 Turbo.   This is a two-speed fan, like the 940 fan, except this one is much, much more powerful.  The low speed on this fan probably pulls at least as much air as the high speed on a 940 fan.  I have read that the high speed on this fan pulls between 35 and 40 amps when running continuously. So I suspect this is NOT a fan for a light-weight charging system.  A large capacity alternator (100 amp), heavy cables to the fan motor and a high capacity relay (50 to 70 amp) would be a good recommendation.  For my 8 page assortment of relay wiring diagram options, including two-speed fan circuits, click here (pdf file). 

At one time I used DCC controllers. I can
no longer recommend the fan controllers from Delta Current Control.  I had two of them fail after 2 years of use each. This makes a $180 controller way too expensive if it can't be reliable.  And to made matters worse, the owner of DCC, Brian Baskin, absolutely would not respond to emails.  My third and LAST order to replace the bad second unit resulted in NO ORDER CONFIRMATION and he absolutely would not respond to any emails. This went on for 6 weeks.  No communication, period. And my car was down all this time.  I finally had to dispute the purchase with Paypal to get my money back. 

There are a few options for controlling a primary electric fan like this.  The old school method is using a relay (or multiple relays). Relays are pretty reliable, but electronic temperature switches are not always as good in the long term.  I installed one of the above 2-speed T-Bird fans in a friend's 240 many years ago and used I used a Hayden 3654 adjustable fan switch (shown at left. It was about $40 at Summit Racing) to turn on the fan low speed circuit for normal cooling needs. Typically I would set a controller at 180 to 190 degrees F, depending on the coolant thermostat being used. Then for this installation I used a separate heavy duty 70 amp relay to trigger the high speed circuit, which was then wired to a standard Volvo on/off temp sender in the radiator (outlet side). This temp sender was there to trigger the high speed if the outlet temp exceeded approximately 210 degrees F, which would happen as a failsafe if the Hayden fan switch failed.  I also put an override switch on the dash to turn on the high speed circuit manually if needed.  This type of installation functioned well in hot SoCal summers using the A/C for many years, but of course the Hayden controller evenually failed after a number of years and the engine was saved by the failsafe design.
<<< The photo at left is the Flex-A-Lite 33054 "Variable" Speed Controller. At time of writing this, Flex-A-Lite made these in 35 and 45 amp versions. The 33054 is the heavy duty 45 amp version, designed to run multiple fans if needed.  The important part about using a controller like this is that it supposedly uses soft start technology.  Flex-A-Lite also make less expensive controllers that don't have variable speed or soft start.  I bought this 33054 from Summit Racing for about $100 and it was in use in my black 242 Turbo (installed summer of 2012) with the big Ford fan shown above until it failed in 2016.  It was wired to control the fan high speed circuit only. 

This controller was more reliable (lasted longer) than the Delta controllers that failed.  After installing it, I discovered that this fan controller is not really a true variable speed controller.  This controller uses a probe in the radiator fins and when the set temperature is reached, it will turn the fan on at 60% power (set point is adjustable from 160 to 210 degrees F).  If the radiator temperature increases more than 10 degrees above your set temperature, the fan switches to 100%. 
So the reality is this controller is a 2-speed controller, instead of a true variable speed controller.

That was a big disappointment to me, since the big Ford fan can cool quite well at low speeds (maybe 25-30%) under light load and this controller can't do that. This controller will also operate your fan(s) for up to 30 seconds after shutting off the car if it reads a high enough temperature.  And of course it has the connections to add the A/C "ON" circuit (turns on at 60% continuous) as well as circuits for a manual override "ON" switch and manual override "OFF" switch if you want.  The installation instructions for the Flex-A-Lite 33054 can be seen here: http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/flx-33054.pdf

If you're looking for a true Zero to 100% variable speed fan controller that can handle a BIG fan, you might have a look at my AutoCoolGuy installation HERE.

FINAL NOTE: I'm a fan of fitting larger radiators, especially when running AC, but there is prior planning needed when it comes to a 240 Turbo.  The standard intercooler configuration limits the radiator width to the stock dimension.  So if you go wider, you must plan to install a different intercooler so you can route intake tubes around the wider radiator.  You can also go with a taller radiator. It's even possible to install a 19 inch tall radiator.  Don't believe me? See the following Turbobricks thread: 

Lincoln Mark VIII 18 inch Fan

I decided I wanted a fatter (and WIDER) radiator.  I bought this one from Griffin and ordered PN 1-55221-X3. The overall size is 26 x 15.5 inches, 3 inches thick, and it has two rows with 1.25" tubes. A stock 240 radiator is about 22 x 17 inches.

The inlets and outlets I chose were 1.38" OD. FYI: They call this radiator a universal fit "Chevy style".
Price was about $300.  It can be ordered with or without a top radiator cap flange. Volvos normally don't use a radiator cap, but I find it becomes very useful with filling with coolant. So I ordered it with the radiator cap  flange. The cap used is Stant PN 10230 or 10231.

I then had aluminum male AN fittings welded on the right side tank.  The top fitting is AN -6 MALE for the expansion tank port. The lower fitting is AN -10 MALE for the turbo coolant hose port.

The Lincoln Mark VIII fan is legendary.
This fan assembly below is roughly the correct width for this new radiator (after trimming off the four protruding mounting ears), so it fits tight, but fairly well. 
This fan pulls 40 amps at full speed (13.6v). Some reports say it pulls over 4000 CFM. I don't know if that CFM rating is accurate, but there are also people claiming to get 4000 CFM from a Volvo 940 fan. NO!  That is NOT realistic at all from a 940 fan. 
But, if you're tired of trying out fans that just aren't enough for your hot climate, like the over-rated 940 fan (
and you have AC), you might think about one like this.

Lincoln Mark VIII 7 Blade Fan
I bought this NEW complete fan assembly for my 242 several years ago.  This one is for a 1997 model. It's a single speed type with 7 blades and can typically be found as Ford PN F7LH-8C607-AB or F7LH-8146-AA.  The assembly I bought was an aftermarket part from either Four Seasons or Dorman.
This fan is a single speed fan because this later fan was made for a VARIABLE SPEED CONTROLLER.  Earlier fans were two-speed versions.

I tested this fan in 2016 and the below results can be used for your own comparison.

imensions: The plastic shroud is 26 inches wide using the mounting tabs or 22 inches wide without the tabs (I cut the tabs off of my shroud before using). The shroud is 19 inches tall and 5.5 inches deep at the back of the fan motor.
The complete assembly is about 8.8 lbs.
Lots more info here: http://forums.tccoa.com/6-general-tech/136722-ultimate-mark-viii-fan-thread.html

Lincoln Mark VIII 7 Blade Fan

Above fan assembly: PN F7LH-8C607-AB or F7LH-8146-AA
At 12.7 volts (static battery voltage, engine not running) it ran at a maximum speed of 1800 rpm. Current consumption: 33.6 Watts.
At 14 volts (engine running with alternator charging) it ran at 2000 rpm.  Current consumption:  40 Watts.

The above fan assembly is not a genuine Ford part. It was an aftermarket part from Four Seasons or Dorman. I don't know if this fan assembly can still be found NEW, however I believe a similar fan (with 7-blades) can still be found in a 2-speed version, which I believe is Ford PN F4SZ8C607D.  A 2-speed version would work just as well for a any fan controller as long as you wire it using the high speed circuit. I don't know if a 7-blade fan performs any better than a 6-blade fan (below), but I do believe an S-shaped blade is better than a straight blade if you have a choice.

Please email me if you have any questions or comments.

Lincoln Mark VIII 6 Blade Fan
I believe you can still get the pre-1997 2-speed fan assembly, which will look like this one. It has 6 blades. The aftermarket
Dorman PN is 620-118 and the Four Seasons PN is 75627. An aftermarket version will typically cost under $100 for the complete fan and motor assembly with shroud. 

<<< This fan: Dorman 620-118, 2-speed fan, 6 blades.
Dimensions: The plastic shroud is 26 inches wide using the mounting tabs or 22 inches wide without the tabs (I cut the tabs off of my shroud before using). The shroud is 19 inches tall and 5.5 inches deep at the back of the fan motor.
The complete assembly is about 8.8 lbs.
Lots more info here: http://forums.tccoa.com/6-general-tech/136722-ultimate-mark-viii-fan-thread.html
Unconfirmed Mark VIII Fan PN and Speed Info:
1993-96 uses PN F3LY8C607A. Rotation is reportedly 1100 rpm on low and 1850 rpm on high.
1997 uses PN F7LZ8C607AB
1998 uses PN F8LZ8C607AA.  The 1997-98 2-speed version rotation is reportedly 1800 rpm on low and 2225 rpm on high (those speeds sound way too high to me. It's probably incorrect).

If I was still using a STOCK WIDTH Volvo 240 radiator I would cut off the entire outer shroud from the Mark VIII fan barrel and mounted the barrel inside a 740 Turbo shroud similar to the above conversion #3.

<<< After trimming off the mounting tabs from the Mark VIII shroud, I fabricated a steel frame to brace the inside at the TOP of the shroud. This was important to fully support the weight of this shroud using the top radiator brackets I made shown below.  This brace was made of 1/2 x 1/8 inch steel bar.  Then I bought bolts and clip-on barrel nuts (AKA: U-Nuts) from McMaster-Carr. The bolts were PN 98093A436 M6 x 1mm, 16mm long with a flange head (see photo). These have a 10 mm head. The clip-on barrel nuts were PN 95210A150, thread size M6 x 1mm made for a panel thickness of 0.8 to 4 mm.

<<<  This is pretty typical metal bar stock found at many local hardware stores.

Here's the Griffin radiator and Mark VIII fan installed in my 240.  As you can see the original style intercooler is gone since it no longer fits and instead I installed an eBay intercooler in front of the radiator with new pipes going around the radiator.  This radiator is WIDE and there is barely enough room to keep the battery in the original location, but it still fits. 

Here's a bottom view of the Mark VIII fan. Yes, the Mark VIII shroud is taller than the radiator by several inches.  This is fixed by adding some aluminum sheet metal to seal the gap. It's securely fastened and then some duct tape added to seal the bottom gap.

I continued using the Flex-A-Lite 33054 Variable Speed Controller that I had previously installed in conversion #3. 
As I mentioned before, I was disappointed in this controller after I discovered that it's actually only a 2-speed controller instead of a true variable speed controller. I really would rather have something that begins spinning the fan at 10% or 20% or 30% instead of beginning at 60% low speed like this controller. 
Anyway, this Flex-A-Lite controller had a MELT-DOWN in 2016
on a hot day when I had the AC going and while in line to pull into a car meet. 
So this one is definitely NOT recommended for a large fan.

Still using the Lincoln Mark VIII 18 inch Fan

I didn't make any fan changes for this project. After the Flex-A-Lite fan controller melted in the summer of 2016 (while pulling into a car meet), I decided to try building my own
custom 4-speed fan controller

using reliable relays to control my Mark VIII fan.

Here's the detailed project page: https://www.240turbo.com/fanharness.html.
Check it out. It worked pretty well and never failed for any reason. But in 2018 I moved on to the below PWM fan controller, which so far does a better job.

Still using the Lincoln Mark VIII 18 inch Fan
I didn't make any fan changes this time, but I decided I would try one of the new controllers made by AutoCoolGuy.

Not long after completing the above 4-speed fan controller project back in 2016, I discovered these controllers being made by AutoCoolGuy.  Their controllers were very interesting and they had some features not usually found elsewhere.  I stayed with the DIY 4-speed controller for a couple years and it worked well, but I was interested in trying out this new one, so I did that in summer 2018.

Some of the Autocoolguy features I liked:
They have controllers made for all the way up to 200 amps.
I couldn't find ANY complaints about failing controllers or problems with their customer service anywhere, and I searched hard.
They make controllers with an independent AC speed setting which is actually adjustable.  I really like the concept of this feature.  Running a big Mark VIII fan at a really high speed for AC is ludicrous unless you really need it.
They offer a pretty wide variety of temperature sender options.
Their controllers are made to use a dash controlled FULL SPEED OVERRIDE switch if desired.
And when I sent them an email on a Sunday asking some questions about controllers for my big fan, they actually responded, on a Sunday!

<<< So here's the Auto Cool III that I installed in my 242 Turbo in November 2018 to control my Lincoln Mark VIII fan.  It's a 125 amp PWM fan controller.  It's internally fused for 150 amps. 

<<< This controller can run one or two fans.  When running one fan like I am, the output posts (FAN A and FAN B) are combined as shown here.  The output to my fan then comes from the FAN A post. 

It may seem a bit backwards, but these controllers are designed so that the 12v cable from the battery goes directly to the fan positive pole.  Then the fan gets controlled by the negative cable, which comes from the FAN A or FAN B posts (or both). 

<<< That's a 3 amp fuse I added between the battery and the controller 12v input pin.

<<< Here are the input pins on top.  Hooking this thing up is pretty simple. Pins 7 and 8 (those two white wires) are for the full speed dash override switch (labeled F/S for "FailSafe"). When those two pins are connected together, the fan runs at 100%.

<<< The AC speed adjustment trim pot is beneath that black cap.

<<< Here's the AC trim pot under that black cap.  I used a photo tachometer to measure fan blade speed and I set the AC speed at 1300 rpm, which was about 65% of maximum speed of 2000 rpm measured at 14.5 volts.

<<< Here's the default temperature sensor that came with this controller. This is the one you get, unless you order one of their optional screw-in sensors.  It's designed to partially slip under the radiator outlet hose and may be used on any ALL METAL radiator.  It's not recommended for radiators with plastic outlets.  This is the sensor I used for my all-aluminum radiator.  It comes with a long wire lead that's wound as a twisted pair.

<<< Or you may optionally choose from a variety of threaded screw-in sensors.  AutoCoolGuy does not offer push-in sensor probes for radiator fins. They say that they don't believe in those due to their inaccuracy.  Not a problem.  The above sensor is working well for me.

<<< Here's the fan full speed override switch I put on my dash.

I have seen a LOT of previous fan controllers FAIL over the years. Having an override switch is a really good thing, even if only for nothing but peace of mind.  I also added an LED light that lights up when the fan is on.  It lights up dimly at low speeds and gradually gets brighter as the fan speeds up. This is also a really good thing for people like me who have developed cooling fan trust issues over the years.

AutoCoolGuy has instructions for wiring this LED in their web page HERE.  In those instructions they show the use of a 1.5k Ohm resistor in line with the power wire for the LED.  I found that a 1.5k Ohm resistor was not sufficient.  My LED was way too bright with that resistor and it really lit up the interior of the car at night.  So I switched to a 10k Ohm resistor and the brightness seems about right and won't blind me at night.  Maybe the LEDs I have are brighter than others.

If you have any feedback or comments, please let me know:

What about with BUZZ or No-BUZZ mentioned in AutoCoolGuy's webpage?
From what I've learned, there are some fans that are prone to making a buzzing sound when receiving PWM input. AutoCoolGuy describes this as
a mechanical issue in some fans which have a blade and armature that's not as tight as it should be.  They said many Asian made fans seem to have this issue, but many Ford or other American made fans do not.  There is more info in their site as well as some videos of this buzzing in action. Basically, if you have a fan that does this and it bugs you enough to do something about it, then there are remedies.  AutoCoolGuy offers an add-on Buzz Box that can be connected between the controller and fan to suppress the buzzing. They also have a couple of controllers with extra no-buzz circuitry built into them. 
I DID NOT order a No-Buzz controller and I have found that my aftermarket (Dorman) Mark VIII fan does not buzz.  So I guess I have a pretty decent fan.

  Jeep/Chrysler/Mopar 18 Inch Fan Info (2019)
I haven't personally used or confirmed the below info yet. 
If you can help confirm, complete or correct any info here or offer more photos of fans or installations using these fans, please email me.

Ferry H from the Netherlands began sending me some of his research when he was looking for a large fan for his car project.
The above radiator fan is identified as PN 52079528AB. It's reportedly an 18 inch cooling fan used in a Jeep/Chrysler/Mopar with 4 liter and 4.7 liter V8 and 3 liter diesel engines.
There is also an aftermarket fan, Dorman PN 620-010, that appears to match this Jeep part number. 

If anyone can confirm this info and the Dorman FAN DIMENSIONS, please email me.

If this large fan exists in the 18 inch size shown, then it may be a decent fit into a stock Volvo mechanical fan shroud
It may be worth exploring as a much large
r option to the small Volvo 940/960/S80 fans people have been using.

These fans appear to have been used in Jeeps since about the year 2000, so they may be fairly easy to hunt down in a salvage yard.

Some of these big fans were reportedly used in Jeep Grand Cherokees. This fan pictured is similar to the above fan and is PN 52079528AD.
There is an aftermarket fan, Dorman PN 620-041, that appears to match this Jeep part number. 

If any
one can confirm this info and the Dorman fan dimensions, please email me.

The Jeep/Chrysler fans reportedly use Bosch motors. There is a Mopar Part Number of CBG4F250 shown here, which may correspond to a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.0 or 4.7 liter V8 engine.  The 4000 CFM rating listed in this photo has not been otherwise confirmed.  This part number also seems to correspond to some of the already mentioned numbers above when you search eBay, so it may be no different than those above.

If anyone can confirm any FAN DIMENSION info, please email me.

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