|VOLVO 240 Power Mirror and Mirror Switch
Updated: August 7, 2020 CONTACT
M A I N S
|240 EARLY Power Mirrors (Alt 1)
||240 EARLY Power Mirrors (Alt 2)
|240 MID and LATE Power Mirrors|
|240 Early (Alt 2) Mirror Repairs and Electrical Stuff
|240 LATE Mirror Repairs and Electrical Stuff|
|240 MIRROR SWITCHES|
|PORSCHE and SAAB MIRROR SWITCHES|
|Alternate Volvo MIRROR SWITCHES
|POWER MIRRORS INTRO
It may not be well known, but there are (at least) FOUR different power side mirror versions for the 240/260 from 1975 to 1993.
EARLY POWER MIRRORS
The first early version shown below (Alternate 1) came along in approximately 1975. These mirror were usually found in upscale models, such as the 260 series.
The second version (Alternate 2) shown below becaome the next visual styling change. This power mirror was used from approximately 1979 through the 1985 model year. This version was usually found in 240 Turbo models, some 240 GL models and 260s.
MID-VERSION POWER MIRRORS
The visual styling of side mirrors changed again in 1986. These mirrors were a bit larger (with larger glass also). For these mid-version mirrors (1986-91), the circuitry remained the same as earlier power mirrors and they used the same switches as the early power mirrors.
Also this 1986-91 period had a part number division for the mirrors and some parts. The division for 244 models was before/after chassis number 378164. For 245 models the division was before/after chassis number 840616. This division occurred during the 1989 model year. The physical changes to these mirrors during this division are not known.
LATE POWER MIRRORS
The late version power mirror was offered for the 1992-93 240. The visual design of the late mirror looks the same as the 1986-91 mirror, however the circuitry and drive motor unit changed. Later style switches were also introduced and the wiring order was changed for those. Late mirrors also added heated mirror glass controlled by a relay and a dash switch.
Early 240 Power Mirror Exploded View above.
Early 240 Power Mirror Exploded View above.
244: Division was before or after chassis number 378164 (mid-1989).
245: Division was before or after chassis number 840616 (mid-1989).
NOTE: Mirrors found on 1986-91 240 used the EARLY mirror switch PN 1235091.
Mirrors found on 1992-93 cars used the LATE mirror switch PN 3540358.
240 Early (Alternate 2) Power Mirrors (up to 1985)
Since there was a serious lack of info available, I decided someone needed to find a way to disassemble these mirrors properly and publish that info.
So I acquired a cheap used one which could be sacrificed for the pursuit of knowledge if needed.
Why would you ever need to disassemble one of these mirrors?
Hopefully you won't, but there are a few reasons you might need to. The mirror glass could become broken. The internal drive motor unit could stop working. It's replaceable.
The Greenbook was not very helpful.
So here's the best method I have found for disassembly.
Thank you goes to cleanflametrap for helping to figure out how to do this, hopefully without damage.
The mirror glass is pretty thick and will take a lot of force to break (but it can). The glass is held onto the backing plate with two sided tape, which you will probably not be able to separate while the backing plate is still attached to the mirror. So I believe it's necessary to remove the mirror and backing plate as one unit FIRST.
Have a look at these FOUR PEGS on the back of the plate. Those pegs snap into those four holes in the mirror drive motor unit. Removing this mirror/plate is done by pulling it off.
Yes, you will be pulling it until those pegs pop out.
When you pull, make sure you only pull from the TOP or BOTTOM of the mirror. Or alternately from the TOP, then BOTTOM. Keep pulling until it pops loose.
CAUTION: If you pull from the LEFT or RIGHT like I did, you'll probably break the glass.
It may take a LOT OF FORCE to break it free, so don't give up.
The rubber boot will be trapped/pinched under the DRIVE MOTOR UNIT around the edges.
Remove the two screws holding the drive unit. Flex the holes in the rubber boot so you can see those screws. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove them.
Once the DRIVE MOTOR UNIT is loose, the rubber boot will come free.
At this point the inner shell will simply lift out and the DRIVE MOTOR UNIT can pass through the hole.
If you need to replace the DRIVE MOTOR UNIT, there's a 4-pole plug that you'll need to unplug. The plastic corner piece at the top right corner lifts out to make more room to mess with that connector.
I thought I would document some electrical information on this mirror. I think it'll come in handy.
Here's another photo of the DRIVE MOTOR UNIT.
I flipped it over so you can see the other side. This is the side of it that normally faces the mirror front.
I won't be taking it apart, but as you can see, there are FOUR wires. Two go to the motor (inside that large bulge) and two go to a solenoid (the smaller bulge).
I'll explain more below of what I've leaned about how these four wires make this thing work.
You can refer to the diagram below and follow along.
Pin 1 on this switch for a 240 will always be POWER.
Pin 4 for a 240 will always GROUND.
LEFT-RIGHT: When the switch joystick is pushed LEFT or RIGHT, a power and ground signal is sent to the Drive Motor Unit through Pins 3 and 5. The internal design of the switch allows for the polarity of these signals to be swapped, which allows the motor to run in forward or reverse (for left or right), depending on the direction the joystick is pushed.
UP-DOWN: For the UP or DOWN function to work, there's a SOLENOID which receives a power and ground signal through Pins 6 and 2. The ground signal is a constant ground coming through the BROWN wire from Pin 2 of the switch. Pin 2 gets its ground from Pin 4, because Pins 2 and 4 are connected internally. The power signal comes through the WHITE wire from Pin 6. This power signal is activated only when the switch is pushed toward the UP or DOWN direction, because these movements connect Pin 6 to Pin 1 inside the switch, sending power to the SOLENOID.
When the SOLENOID is energized by the WHITE wire (due to the joystick moving UP or DOWN), it triggers a function change in the Drive Unit mechanism, which changes the RIGHT-LEFT function to an UP-DOWN function. If you listen carefully, you can hear the audible click as the solenoid makes the change. This click can be heard in the below video.
240 EARLY AND MID MIRROR WIRING DIAGRAM
Early Mirrors to 1985
and Mid Mirrors 1986-91
Click HERE to see testing information for early 240 mirror SWITCHES.
It's Time for a VIDEO
Volvo 240 Early Power Mirror Function Test
The Drive Motor Unit in this Volvo mirror has one motor, which can perform two separate functions.
Function 1: LEFT - RIGHT adjustment.
Function 2: UP - DOWN adjustment.
There is a SOLENOID inside the Drive Motor Unit, which switches between the two motor functions. You can hear the audible click of the solenoid as the function changes.
12V DC POWER SUPPLY
240 Late Power Mirrors (1992-93)
Why would you ever need to disassemble one of these mirrors?
Hopefully never. But there are a few reasons you might need to. The mirror glass could become broken. The internal electrical drive motor unit could stop working. And it's replaceable.
Volvo Instructions are NOT helpful. Don't attempt to remove the mirror glass like this. BAD! You'll see why further below.
If you're familiar with this type of mirror back, you should know the late 240 POWER mirror is NOTHING like this. This image is what you'll find in a MANUAL mirror.
This manual glass is really easy to remove. You just insert a flat screwdriver into a hole on the bottom of the mirror and rotate that white collar. That hole on the bottom is present on the late power mirror just to confuse you, but it's useless unless you have a manual mirror.
Volvo decided instead their late POWER mirrors would be stupid and difficult.
The LATE 240 power mirror glass removal is exactly the same as this S60/V70 video.
Except DON'T BELIEVE him when he says it's easy to open those clips.
Also DO NOT forcibly pull the glass off like he does, you'll risk DESTROYING your DRIVE MOTOR UNIT. You'll see that carnage further below.
The rest of that video is pretty useful, but I'll reinforce your understanding with some photos of my own below.
HERE ARE MY PHOTOS
Yes, these photos appear a bit out of order. I have already removed these parts, but showing you the parts removed first will make it easier to see what you need to see.
As you saw in the video, the mirror glass back panel snaps onto the Drive Motor Unit.
Those four LOCATING PINS (circled in RED below) insert into the four holes on the Drive Motor Unit.
Those EIGHT plastic "L" CLIPS snap over the outer edge of the Drive Motor Unit. So those EIGHT clips must be released.
The best method to do this is similar to how the video describes, but I found those plastic clips to be very tight and it took a great deal of force to shove a small screwdriver under them and bend them open. You will undoubtedly be concerned about bending them so much that you might break some off. My advice is DON'T BE CONCERNED about that. Bend them so they are as free from holding onto the Drive Motor Unit as you can. If you break one or two, so what? Otherwise you may be tempted to just yank the mirror off in frustration.
This Drive Motor Unit is way TOO FRAGILE for that.
While you look at that image of the DRIVE MOTOR UNIT above, you can study how different it is from the early 240 power mirror Drive Unit. This unit above has TWO MOTORS; One motor for LEFT-RIGHT and one for UP-DOWN. If you go back and look at the early type, it has only ONE MOTOR.
THIS DRIVE UNIT IS FRAGILE!
Here it is. Here's a close-up photo below of the carnage that's waiting for you if you try to yank the mirror off.
That BROKEN PART can best be described as a rack (as in rack and pinion). That rack is moved by a gear on that motor, controlling the LEFT-RIGHT movement. This break destroyed the ability for the Drive Unit to control the LEFT to RIGHT adjustment.
So I think now you probably understand the importance of NOT pulling on this mirror.
So I'll return to showing you some photos below.
More images showing how the locating pins fit the Drive Unit and some close-ups showing those "L" clips.
Once the mirror is free, you can flip it over and see the two heater connections. Those simply pull off.
There are three screws holding the Drive Unit.
And there is a 3-pole connector on the reverse side of the Drive Unit.
There are two plastic hooks retaining it, so bending those a bit will allow the removal of this plug.
Here's some electrical information on this late mirror.
You can refer to the diagram below and follow along.
Each mirror has a Drive Motor Unit. Each Drive Unit has two drive motors. One motor moves the mirror LEFT-RIGHT and the other motor moves it UP-DOWN.
For each pair of motors there are three wires. One wire goes to the LEFT-RIGHT motor, one goes to the UP-DOWN motor, and one wire goes to the other sides of BOTH motors.
NOTE: If you study this closely, you'll see that the two switches appear to be wired similarly to each other, however the POWER and GROUND inputs (Pins 1 and 4) are OPPOSITE. For these circuits, the LEFT switch gets power through Pin 4. The RIGHT switch gets power through Pin 1.
LEFT-RIGHT: When the switch joystick is pushed LEFT or RIGHT, a power and ground signal is sent to a pair of wires to one of the Drive Motors. We'll call this one the LEFT-RIGHT MOTOR. This power and ground signal goes through Pins 3 and 5 of the switch. The internal design of the switch allows for the polarity of these signals to be swapped, which allows the motor to run in forward or reverse (for left and right), depending on the direction the joystick is pushed.
UP-DOWN: When the joystick is pushed UP or DOWN, a power and ground signal is sent to the UP-DOWN MOTOR through Pins 5 and 6. Again, the internal design of the switch allows for the polarity of these signals to be swapped, which allows the motor to run in forward or reverse (for up or down), depending on the direction the joystick is pushed.
The internal design of the switch will only allow for one motor in the Drive Unit to be energized at a time, so the mirror moves only in one direction at a time.
MIRROR GLASS HEATER: Late 240 mirrors are designed to be heated for use in very cold weather. A switch on the dash may be triggered, which activates a relay. The relay sends power to heating elements inside the mirror glass.
240 LATE MIRROR WIRING DIAGRAM (1992-93)
Click HERE to see testing information for LATE 240 mirror switches.
I've began looking closely at 240 mirror switches, since I could find very little useful information on-line and the info I did find seemed to be conflicting and inaccurate.
So this section will try to straighten out errors or misconceptions and hopefully provide something useful and accurate.
BASIC SWITCH INFORMATION
The switches were normally mounted in the 240 center console either on the FRONT surface or TOP surface.
MOUNTING POSITION IN CENTER CONSOLE
Those small holes next to the larger holes play an important role. The small hole matches up to a locating pin on the switch to keep the switch pointed in the proper direction.
The proper direction is shown below. The right and left switch is the same, but they're mounted OPPOSING each other.
EARLY 240 SWITCH
This early mirror switch is identified in Volvo parts catalogs as PN 1235091. This switch has a dark gray colored bottom, although it will appear black in most photos. This switch has been NLA as a new part for a number of years.
Parts catalogs show it is used for all 240/260 power mirrors from 1975 through 1991.
LATE 240 SWITCH
This late switch is identified in Volvo parts catalogs as PN 3540358. It has a red colored bottom. It has also been NLA as a new part for a number of years.
Parts catalogs show it's used in the 1992-93 240 only. This switch is externally identical to the early switch, except for a couple of differences. The first obvious difference is the red colored bottom.
EARLY versus LATE SWITCH COMPARISON
Other than the gray or red colored bottom, the first clue that these switches are different comes when you look at the contacts.
The early switch has 6 contact pins and the connector plug uses 6 wires.
The late switch only has 5 contact pins and the connector uses 5 wires.
The connector housing is the same for both switches, however the wiring order is not the same.
The wire color stickers showing are identical on both switches, although the colors don't actually match all actual wire colors.
There are a few people who claim these switches are interchangeable, but after you see the info below, I think you'll disagree (like I do).
If you can provide any input, please email.
The search for the truth continues.
I have placed a side-by-side internal switch function diagram at the bottom of this section.
I began testing EARLY versus LATE 240 switch continuity.
The below continuity tests were done to see what connects in the 6 pins at various toggle positions.
If you test a switch and get different results, it might need some internal cleaning. Otherwise, contact me with your results.
EARLY SWITCH FAULT TRACING
The wire order will be the same for a left or right switch in a 240 up to 1991.
Pin 1 will always be POWER input for both right and left side. Pin 4 will always be GROUND input.
You can use this table below to test for power and ground supply of pins 3, 5 and 6 at the switch or from the switch to the mirror. Wire colors below are those found at the switch connector for a 240 up to 1991.
Early mirror wiring diagram can be found HERE.
LATE SWITCH FAULT TRACING
The wire order in the connectors will be different between the LEFT and RIGHT switch in a LATE 240.
You can use this table below to test for power and ground supply of pins 3, 5 and 6 at each switch.
Wire colors below are those found in a switch connector for a 1992-93 240.
Late mirror wiring diagram can be found HERE.
EARLY vs. LATE SWITCH FUNCTION COMPARISON
Here's a side-by-side comparison of the internal functions of these two switches.
If you're of the opinion that these switches are interchangeable or somehow compatible for some sort of retrofit, please contact me and help me understand. I just don't see it happening.
Porsche and Saab Mirror Switches
This switch below is the exact switch (offered NEW at various places on-line) that matches the above Porsche or Saab part numbers.
There is absolutely NO DIFFERENCE between a Porsche or Saab switch, except possibly for the sticker.
They are the SAME SWITCH.
SAAB 900 POWER MIRROR DIAGRAM
The below Saab 900 diagram uses the same switch circuits as the Early and Mid 240 power mirrors. The Saab mirrors are constructed with a Drive Motor Unit that works exactly the same as the Early or Mid Volvo. When you compare the two wiring diagrams you'll see that they're identical, except for one ground wire on each switch. This switch in a Saab does not use Pin 2 (which is a source to ground). Instead the BLACK ground wire to the SOLENOID in a Saab is grounded to the car chassis directly.
PORSCHE POWER MIRROR DIAGRAM
The below Porsche wiring diagram uses the same switch circuits as the Early or Mid 240 power mirrors. These Porsche mirrors are constructed with a Drive Motor Unit with ONE MOTOR and a SOLENOID that works exactly the same as the Early-Mid Volvo and Saab. When you compare the diagrams with Volvo or Saab, you'll see that they're identical in operation, except that the Porsche uses only ONE switch. It seems that some Porsche cars had only a driver side power mirror (1978-79) and others had two power mirrors with ONE mirror switch that used a LEFT-RIGHT SELECTOR SWITCH (1978-86).
If you're curious as to the orientation of this switch when it's mounted, it points the same direction as an EARLY or MID 240 LEFT SWITCH relative to its UP-DOWN and RIGHT-LEFT movements.
Can a different switch be used with 240 mirrors?
For those of you who want something different, I think it might be an interesting modification to move the 240 mirror switches to a better location.
So how about putting them on the door, like they do on 700/900/850 models?
These switches below are used in 700/900/850 models. There are TWO versions.
PN 1347065: Volvo 740, 760, 780 through 1991. This switch works for all 240 EARLY or MID power mirrors (used in 240 models up to 1991).
PN 3454090: Volvo 740, 760, 780, 850, 940, 960 from 1992 and later. This switch works for all 240 LATE power mirrors (1992-93 240).
Here's some electrical information for the EARLY mirror switches.
PN 1347065: Volvo 740, 760, 780 through 1991.
This switch works for all 240 EARLY or MID power mirrors (used in 240 models up to 1991).
This diagram below shows the internal switch functions of the EARLY 700 switch.
It's almost exactly the same as an EARLY 240 switch, except for changes in pin numbers.
Power input goes through Pin 4, Ground input is through Pin 2.
Outputs to the mirror are Pins 1, 3 and 5.
EARLY 700 SWITCH MOUNTING POSITION AND INTERNAL CIRCUITS
It matters which direction this switch is pointing when mounted.
The below images show a proper mounting position for a LEFT switch.
When in this position the part number will be visible to the rear.
EARLY 700 SWITCH INTERNAL CIRCUITS
The below images show the internal contacts inside an EARLY 700 switch.
I mapped out the circuits below help you understand where each one goes through the switch.
These images show a switch in the proper mounting position for a LEFT mirror.
If using these EARLY 700 switches to control EARLY or MID 240 power mirrors, here is the wiring information you'll need to know.
This image below is a 700 switch panel. The mirror switches are installed in a 740 as shown below from the factory.
If you have read about 240 mirror switches above, you'll know that the LEFT and RIGHT switches must be mounted opposing each other. This is not how these 700 switches are originally mounted. So you will need to turn the RIGHT switch 180 degrees.
These switches are made to insert in ONE DIRECTION. There's a notch in the switch that fits a peg inside the well. When turning this switch around, it'll go in most of the way, but the peg will interfere. So a remedy is to cut out that peg. A sharp Exacto knife works well to shave it down.
Once the right switch is turned 180º, you can use the below diagram to see what wires originally intended for the 240 switches can now go to the 700 switches.
Your feedback is welcome: CONTACT
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