Harness Crimping Page |
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UPDATED: December 28, 2024
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![]() <<< It's a NON-INSULATED terminal with open "wings" as shown to the left. Those wings are crimped over the wire. |
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![]() https://www.harborfreight.com/9-12-in-wire-crimping-tool-63989.html |
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RATCHETING CRIMPER
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![]() Here's an expensive MSD ratcheting crimper which I have used for many years when I need a fancy crimper. It has dies which can be swapped for different style crimps, such as for auto ignition cables. It was pretty expensive (close to $100), but years ago when I bought this one there were not many cheap tool options like there are now. So shop around. THIS MSD CRIMPER: with ignition dies: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-35051/overview/ or with optional open barrel dies: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-3506/overview/ |
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Here's a very highly rated copy of the above expensive crimper for a fraction of the price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMMZ502/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza ![]() |
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When shopping around for crimpers, try to find one that will do open barrel F type terminals.
You can spend a lot of money on one of these tools or kits,
but it you hunt carefully, you can find cheaper
ones that will work pretty well. This one pictured BELOW is under $30 for
the crimper and it comes with extra crimping dies and a wire stripper.
Sometimes you get what you pay for when buying CHEAP
tools, so shop carefully and read reviews if they exist. ![]() Looking at this photo ABOVE, the style of crimping die normally used for open barrel terminals that are found in my harness pages is the one on the bottom right in this photo. It's most similar to the ABOVE larger photo of my expensive MSD crimper. The other dies might come in handy, so they would be a bonus. I don't own this particular crimper. This one is cheap and might be worth the cost, or it might explode! You can never really tell until it's in your hands, but I would buy one if I didn't already have mine. HERE: https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-different-terminals-interchangeable/dp/B0195VXA10/ |
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Here's a short, but decent video showing
close-up crimping action for an open barrel
terminal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=8jcfD1UW8SE |
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Here we have a typical relay socket plug used in Volvos. Notice the metal terminals inside the holes? Not all the holes always have terminals. You'll need a tool for this part... a long sharp pick will do. A micro screwdriver can also be used. If your tool is not small enough on the tip, a little grinding will fix it as I did on this pick. Even a stiff piece of piano wire can work for this step. |
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Here are a couple videos that show how these terminals are inserted or removed from a connector housing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdNcIHQRLko |
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https://youtu.be/_3GoK3xE1gs |
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These style connectors and
terminals are available in Dave's Volvo Page: https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html#EFIplugs |
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![]() This connector housing uses FEMALE crimp terminals, so this housing is known as a FEMALE housing. Inserting or removing a crimp terminal from one of these housings is easy, but if you're never done this before, this page will show you how. |
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The
below video will offer a quick view of this type of
crimping operation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXDedfvmI_0 (length: 1:34) |
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The
Terminals below are TYPE 1 EFI Terminals (Early type). |
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These terminals are most often found in Volvo engine harnesses up to approximately 1988, however if you have a harness from Dave's Volvo Page the terminal will almost always be the Type 2 (HERE). | ||
![]() Be sure to pull on the wire to TEST it after crimping. It should not pull free. |
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![]() A wire seal like this is optional. If you decide to use a rubber boot on the back of this connector, a wire seal is not needed. |
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Removing TYPE 1 EFI Terminals. | ||
These terminals are most often found in Volvo engine harnesses up to approximately 1987, however if you have a harness from Dave's Volvo Page the terminals will almost always be the Type 2 (HERE). | ||
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![]() If you want to invest in a tool, this Rennsteig tool shown in the Type 2 section BELOW also works pretty well to release this terminal. ![]() |
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The Terminals below are TYPE
2 EFI Terminals (Later type). These terminals are most often found in Volvo engine harnesses made after 1987 |
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![]() In this photo a silicone wire seal has been added. As mentioned above, this type of seal is optional. It may be used instead of a rubber boot. It you decide to use a rubber boot, then these seals are not needed. This seal has been crimped onto the back of the terminal. This is not required. It can just be slid onto the wire too. It's up to your preference. |
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![]() When fully inserted, you should hear the hooks CLICK into place. |
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Since the TYPE 2 terminal
has two hooks, it will be much more difficult to
release from a connector housing using a simple pick. It's possible
to use TWO PICKS (like the pick used for the Type 1), however a better tool can make life easier.
This tool made by Rennsteig PN 680-12093647 works pretty well, but it's expensive. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/rennsteig-tools-inc/680-12093647/13573494 Keep reading below for a great hack I discovered that won't cost very much. |
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![]() This tool is inserted as shown ABOVE. It will depress the TWO HOOKS at the same time. Then the wire and terminal is usually easier to pull out from the rear of the connector housing. |
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ALTERNATE HACK THAT WORKS REALLY WELL:
REMOVING THESE TERMINALS WITH A FLAT BOBBY PIN. Here's a video someone made for a home-made tool to remove this terminal using a FLAT BOBBY PIN.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDWKcAiLJ_Y So I bought some flat bobby pins and made a tool to see how it worked. These pins are from Amazon: amazon.com/dp/B07NV3D6FN ![]() Many bobby pins now are made with ROUND wire. Those are NO GOOD for this. They must be FLAT like pictured.
These pins are about 2 inches long and about 2 mm wide. The hole in the connector above and below the terminal (photo below) is also about 2 mm wide. This pin is a tight fit, so I trimmed and straightened the pin and then I shaved down the sides a little with a bench grinder so it fit easier into the hole. Then I also trimmed the ends down a little thinner. The ends need to almost come down to a point like shown below. That helped a lot to make these work better. Plus they should slightly curve inward, as suggested in the above video. This bobby pin is made with a very stiff metal, so removing metal like this did not make it weak. ![]() In the end, I think this home-made tool actually works BETTER for a terminal with TWO hooks than the expensive Rennsteig tool. Here's a short video from HandyDan on releasing ECU terminals on a Volvo P80 harness.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtYe8ph9zic Large 25-Pole or 35-Pole LH-EFI ECU or EZK connectors
Disassembling and removing terminals from a large ECU connector will be very similar to the above procedures. Many of these connector made before 1987 will have Type 1 terminals. After 1987 you'll probably find Type 2 terminals. ![]() The above connector has three Phillips screws to remove first.
![]() Some original Bosch connectors have locking combs as shown in the above RIGHT image. That comb needs to be slide outward before the terminals can be released. Non-Bosch connectors usually will not have this locking device. You may use the same procedures shown in the above section to release the Type 1 or Type 2 terminals. | ||
RUBBER BOOTS |
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These connectors are available in Dave's Volvo Page: https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html#EFIplugs | ||
Crimping Large Cable Battery Lugs. |
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Lots of people have a tool like this one pictured. This one is from 12 Volt Planet,
but there are many other versions available everywhere. I prefer using a VISE with this tool, NOT A HAMMER. This tool is functional and offers pretty good side support for the cable lug. There are better and much more expensive tools, but this one is pretty cheap and better than just smacking the lug with a punch or a screwdriver. The BIG disadvantage to this tool and others that use a vise is it's hard to crimp a lug under your hood. ![]() ![]() |
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Lots of people have old tubing flaring tools laying around. Here's a new use for half of your flaring tool in a vise that also offers good side support for a large lug when crimping. This photo is from plan-to-build.com/making-lugs-for-3-0-cable-from-copper-pipe/. ![]() This inexpensive flaring kit from Harbor Freight will go up to 5/8 inch O.D. https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-tube-flaring-kit-5969.html ![]() |
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Large Crimping Tools | ||
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![]() Basic crimping with nylon butt splices. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfXi60hu5zM |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArOHcJ4bBqM |
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SOLDERING BUTT JOINTS | ||
I have NOT normally been a fan of soldering when building an automotive engine harness. ![]() Above photo from How to Splice Wires: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/working-with-wire/how-to-splice-wires Solder is fragile and tends to crack when subjected to vibration, rattling, movement, heat, or a combination of these. If an auto harness connection cracks, it will lead to immense frustration and THEN you'll hopefully have learned your lesson. Solder is just find for wires that will NOT be bouncing, rattling or vibrating. It's good for an electronic device in your house, but I don't prefer it in a car. For best conductivity in a butt joint, copper wires should be joined together COPPER touching COPPER or joined by a butt connector. COPPER TOUCHING COPPER or COPPER TOUCHING METAL is best. NOT copper joined by SOLDER. If you like SOLDER, soldering PLUS crimping can work well in a car harness. ![]() It's obviously a lot more work than just crimping, but it's a lot stronger. Here's a video below demonstrating the use of solder AFTER crimping a battery lug. Below video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkMdlPsBxkc |
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SOLDER BUTT CONNECTORS |
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![]() These are popular, but be aware these are not miracle connectors. These do not offer a CRIMP. These have a low-temp melt solder inside that melts at a much lower temperature than normal solder. Normally a heat gun will not get hot enough to melt solder, but low-temp solder will melt as low as 200 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. I would not use these under my hood in an area that gets very hot, but these would be OK inside the car. The tubing will shrink and seal the connection, which is a good thing. |
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CRIMP AND SOLDER BUTT CONNECTORS | ||
![]() These butt connector have a metal butt crimp inside for a strong, secure connection, plus low-temp solder in the center, which will melt when heated. The plastic tube will also shrink down and seal the connection well (adhesive lined inside, which melts and glues the connection tight. These connectors are expensive, costing as much as almost $1.00 each. They come in sizes for wire in 18-20 AWG, 14-16 AWG, or 10-12 AWG. |
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WIRE TWIST BUTT JOINTS No Crimping, No Solder. |
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![]() ![]() There are a number of videos showing how to twist wire together effectively WITHOUT using solder or butt crimps. Here are a few methods below. Just keep handy a supply of some different sizes of HEAT-SHRINK TUBING to cover them. |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBw5hrV3aZM |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdTQ1W07GRE&t=251s |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSS6ZNCuiPI |
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DEUTSCH DT connectors are 100% interchangeable (every piece) with Amphenol AT Series connectors. | |||||||
(Amphenol AT equivalent connectors are further below CLICK HERE) Hard to spell, but Deutsch connectors are very good. Fully sealed, easy to use connectors suitable for almost any automotive application. Deutsch connectors are sold by TE Connectivity, formerly Tyco Electronics. I like these connectors, so I thought I'd highlight them here. I don't offer these in my pages because they're available pretty much everywhere. But I use them and they are great connectors. Most common types used for automotive: ![]() ![]() DT Connectors: 14-18 AWG, rated up to 13A. Uses Size 16 contacts (terminals). https://www.mouser.com/new/te-connectivity/te-deutsch-dt-series-connectors/ HIGHER CURRENT CONNECTORS ![]() ![]() DTP (Power) Series Connectors: 10-14 AWG, rated up to 25A. Uses Size 12 contacts (terminals). These are for higher amp power connections up to 25 amps. https://www.mouser.com/new/te-connectivity/te-deutsch-dtp-connectors/
https://www.amphenol-sine.com/a-series-connectors A comprehensive cross-reference is available here: https://www.amphenol-sine.com/DeutschConnectorsCrossReference.html Most common types used for automotive: ![]() ![]() AT Series Connectors: 14-22 AWG, rated up to 13A. Uses Size 16 terminals. https://www.amphenol-sine.com/at-series HIGHER CURRENT CONNECTORS ![]() ![]() ATP (Power) Series Connectors: 10-14 AWG, up to 25A rating, uses Size 12 terminals. These are for higher amp power connections up to 25 amps. https://www.amphenol-sine.com/atp-series
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