Harness Crimping Page  |
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UPDATED: February 13, 2019 CONTACT |
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If you have any comments or if you can help to improve this information, please email.
CONTACT
| Crimping Open
Barrel Terminals |
Assembling
EFI Crimp Connectors |
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 What is an OPEN BARREL terminal? <<< It's an UN-INSULATED terminal with open "wings" as shown to the left. Those wings are crimped over the wire. |
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PROPER CRIMP
tools are important. Try
not
to use too cheap a crimper or the wrong type for the
terminal you're using. Buy yourself something at
least as good as this one. For those of you who are curious about what crimper I use, this is it for 90% of my crimps for non-insulated open barrel and also many insulated terminals. This is the Thomas & Betts model WT 112M. It runs about $40. I've had this one for 20 plus years. |
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<<< For
a tool that's a bit more fancy, look for a ratcheting
style crimper that will do open barrel F type terminals.
You can spend a lot of money on one of these tools,
but it you hunt carefully, you can find cheaper
ones. This one pictured is only around $30 for
the crimper and several different crimping dies.
Sometimes you get what you pay for when buying CHEAP
tools, so shop carefully and read reviews. The crimp die type normally used for common open barrel terminals I use most often and offer in my pages is the die set in the center, which is similar to the BELOW larger photo. The other dies might come in handy, so they would be a bonus. I don't own this particular crimper. My fancy racheting crimper was made by MSD and was about $80 more than ten years ago from Summit Racing. There are more options to choose from now. This one pictured is cheap and might be worth the cost, or it might explode! You can never really tell until it's in your hands. HERE: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CVH8JNO?psc=1 |
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<<< Here's the
MSD ratcheting crimper I use for open barrel
terminals when I want the fancy crimper. I've
had this one for 10 plus years. It's pretty expensive
compared to what you can find these days for a lot
less money, so shop around.MSD crimper with ignition dies: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-35051/overview/ and optional open barrel dies: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-3506/overview/ |
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| Here's a decent video showing
close-up crimping action for an open barrel
terminal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=8jcfD1UW8SE |
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| These style connectors and
terminals are available in Dave's Volvo Page: https://www.240turbo.com/blackvinyl.html#EFIplugs |
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 <<<
Here's a typical
sealed connector housing found in many different
Bosch style fuel injection systems. This one
has 6 poles and is most often used for a MAF (mass
air flow) sensor. This connector housing uses a FEMALE crmp terminal, so this housing is known as a FEMALE housing. Inserting or removing a crimp terminal from one of these housings is easy, but if you're never done this before, this page will show you how. |
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 <<< Connector housings
like these come in a number of different
configurations. The most common one is a
2-pole connector shown here used for a Bosch
style fuel injector. This style connector is
also known as an EV-1 connector. They all
use the same style crimp terminals that are
inserted into these housings from the rear after
being crimped onto a wire. |
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| <<< Here's a typical
ratcheting terminal crimper that works well for these
EFI terminals (same MSD crimper described
above). |
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| The
below video will offer a quick view of this type of
crimping operation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXDedfvmI_0 (length: 1:34) |
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| The
Terminals below are TYPE 1 EFI Terminals. These terminals are most often found in Volvo engine harnesses up to approximately 1988. |
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<<<
It may take some
practice before your crimps come out just right.
The wire needs to be tightly crimped, so be sure to pull on the wire to test
it. It should not pull free. |
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 <<< An EFI TYPE 1 terminal
will have a single HOOK
sticking out like that one on the underside. That hook
will be what holds this terminal in place inside the
connector housing. |
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 <<< As the TYPE 1 crimped
terminal is inserted into the rear of the connector
housing, that hook will click into place when it
reaches the end and is fully inserted. When fully inserted, you should hear the hook CLICK into place. |
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 <<< Here's the backside of
the EFI connector. That hinged piece on the
bottom is there to help lock in the wire or wire
seals, if used. That hinged piece will not be present
on all EFI connectors like this and there are plently
of these connector without that part. Those work just
as well. |
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<<<
Here I'm inserting a
crimped TYPE 1 terminal into the rear of the connector
housing. It has a silicone
wire seal installed on the wire before
crimping the terminal. Some prefer crimping the seal
onto the back of the terminal as you'll see below.A wire seal like this is optional. If you decide to use a rubber boot on the back of this connector, a wire seal is not needed. |
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<<<
Once the terminal is
inserted, then the wire seal can be pushed up the
wire and into the hole. |
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<<< If your connector
housing has the hinged piece, it can then be closed to
lock in the wire and seal. If your housing does
not have it, you can certainly still insert a wire
seal and it should stay in place without the need for
a locking device, especially if you decide to crimp
the wire seal onto the terminal as shown below. |
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 <<< If you need to remove an EFI TYPE 1
terminal from a housing, a simple tool is
used, which may be a sharp pick or even a micro
screwdriver. The pick is inserted into the
front of the connector housing to reach that hook.
The goal is to push that hook toward the terminal so
it gets released from the housing and the terminal
can then be pulled out the rear of the housing.If you remove a terminal from a housing and intend to reuse or re-insert that terminal, first inspect the hook to make sure it's still sticking out. If you bent the hook inward, you may carefully re-bend it back outward so it'll click into place when inserted. |
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| The Terminals below are TYPE
2 EFI Terminals. These terminals are most often found in Volvo engine harnesses after 1988. |
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 <<< An EFI TYPE 2
terminal will have TWO
HOOKS sticking
out like these on either side. These hooks will be
what holds this terminal in place inside the connector
housing. In this photo a silicone wire seal has been added. As mention above, this type of seal is optional. It may be used instead of a rubber boot. It you decide to use a rubber boot, then these seals are not needed. This seal has been crimped onto the back of the terminal. This is not required. It's your preference. |
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 <<< As the TYPE 2 crimped
terminal is inserted into the rear of the connector
housing, those two hooks will click into place when it
reaches the end and is fully inserted. When fully inserted, you should hear the hooks CLICK into place. |
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 Since the TYPE 2 terminal
has two hooks, it will be a little more difficult to
remove from the connector housing. It's possible
to use a pick as shown in the TYPE 1 section above, or
possibly two picks, however the proper tool for such
removal is shown here. |
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 This tool is inserted as shown to depress the
two hooks at the same time. |
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| RUBBER BOOTS |
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 <<< Here we
have a rubber boot that mates to the connector housing.
If you're using a
rubber boot, then using wire seals will not be
necessary. |
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| These connectors are available in Dave's Volvo Page: https://www.240turbo.com/blackvinyl.html#EFIplugs |
