Harness Crimping Page |
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UPDATED: March 27, 2022 CONTACT |
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![]() <<< It's a NON-INSULATED terminal with open "wings" as shown to the left. Those wings are crimped over the wire. |
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![]() https://www.harborfreight.com/9-12-in-wire-crimping-tool-63989.html |
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RATCHETING CRIMPER
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![]() Here's an expensive MSD ratcheting crimper I have used for a number of years when I need a fancy crimper. It has dies which can be swapped for different style crimps, such as for auto ignition cables. It was pretty expensive (close to $100), but many years ago when I bought this one there were not very cheap tool options like there are now. So shop around. THIS MSD CRIMPER: with ignition dies: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-35051/overview/ or with optional open barrel dies: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-3506/overview/ |
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Here's a very highly rated copy of my expensive crimper for a fraction of the price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMMZ502/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza ![]() |
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When shopping around for crimpers, try to find one that will do open barrel F type terminals.
You can spend a lot of money on one of these tools or kits,
but it you hunt carefully, you can find cheaper
ones that will work pretty well. This one pictured is under $30 for
the crimper and it comes with extra crimping dies and a wire stripper.
Sometimes you get what you pay for when buying CHEAP
tools, so shop carefully and read reviews if they exist. Looking at this photo, the style of crimping die normally used for open barrel terminals that are found in my harness pages is the one on the bottom right in this photo. It's most similar to the ABOVE larger photo on my expensive MSD crimper. The other dies might come in handy, so they would be a bonus. I don't own this particular crimper. This one is cheap and might be worth the cost, or it might explode! You can never really tell until it's in your hands. HERE: https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-different-terminals-interchangeable/dp/B0195VXA10/ ![]() |
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Here's a short, but decent video showing
close-up crimping action for an open barrel
terminal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=8jcfD1UW8SE |
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These style connectors and
terminals are available in Dave's Volvo Page: https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html#EFIplugs |
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![]() This connector housing uses FEMALE crimp terminals, so this housing is known as a FEMALE housing. Inserting or removing a crimp terminal from one of these housings is easy, but if you're never done this before, this page will show you how. |
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The
below video will offer a quick view of this type of
crimping operation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXDedfvmI_0 (length: 1:34) |
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The
Terminals below are TYPE 1 EFI Terminals (Early type). These terminals are most often found in Volvo engine harnesses up to approximately 1988. |
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![]() Be sure to pull on the wire to TEST it after crimping. It should not pull free. |
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![]() A wire seal like this is optional. If you decide to use a rubber boot on the back of this connector, a wire seal is not needed. |
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Removing TYPE 1 EFI Terminals. | ||
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![]() If you want to invest in a better tool, the Rennsteig tool shown in the Type 2 section BELOW also works very well to release this terminal. ![]() |
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The Terminals below are TYPE
2 EFI Terminals (Later type). These terminals are most often found in Volvo engine harnesses after 1988. |
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![]() In this photo a silicone wire seal has been added. As mentioned above, this type of seal is optional. It may be used instead of a rubber boot. It you decide to use a rubber boot, then these seals are not needed. This seal has been crimped onto the back of the terminal. This is not required. It can just be slid onto the wire too. It's up to your preference. |
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![]() When fully inserted, you should hear the hooks CLICK into place. |
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Since the TYPE 2 terminal
has two hooks, it will be much more difficult to
release from the connector housing using a simple pick. It's possible
to use TWO PICKS (like that used for the Type 1), however the proper tool like this makes life so much easier for releasing these terminals.
This tool made by Rennsteig PN 680-12093647 works exceptionally well. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/rennsteig-tools-inc/680-12093647/13573494 This release tool works quite well with Type 1 or Type 2 terminals. |
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![]() This tool is inserted as shown ABOVE. It will depress the two hooks at the same time. Then the wire and terminal is easily pulled out from the rear of the connector housing. |
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RUBBER BOOTS |
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These connectors are available in Dave's Volvo Page: https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html#EFIplugs | ||
Crimping Large Cable Battery Lugs. |
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Lots of people have a tool like this one pictured. This one is from 12 Volt Planet,
but there are many other versions available everywhere. This tool
is designed to be hit with a hammer or squeezed in a vise. I prefer using a vise. This tool is functional and offers pretty good side support for the cable lug.
There are better and much more expensive tools, but this one is pretty
cheap and better than just smacking the lug with a punch or a
screwdriver. The BIG disadvantage to this tool and others that use
a vise is it's hard to crimp a lug under your hood. ![]() ![]() |
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Lots of people have old tubing flaring tools laying around. Here's a new use for half of your flaring tool in a vise that also offers good side support for a large lug when crimping. This photo is from plan-to-build.com/making-lugs-for-3-0-cable-from-copper-pipe/. ![]() This inexpensive flaring kit from Harbor Freight will go up to 5/8 inch O.D. https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-tube-flaring-kit-5969.html ![]() |
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Large Crimping Tools | ||
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![]() Basic crimping with nylon butt splices. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfXi60hu5zM |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArOHcJ4bBqM |
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SOLDERING BUTT JOINTS | ||
I have NOT normally been a fan of soldering when building an automotive engine harness. ![]() Above photo from How to Splice Wires: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/working-with-wire/how-to-splice-wires Solder is fragile and tends to crack when subjected to vibration, rattling, movement, heat, or a combination of these. If an auto harness connection cracks, it will lead to immense frustration and THEN you'll hopefully have learned your lesson. Solder is just find for wires that will NOT be bouncing, rattling or vibrating. It's good for an electronic device in your house, but I don't prefer it in a car. For best conductivity in a butt joint, copper wires should be joined together COPPER touching COPPER or joined by a butt connector. COPPER TOUCHING COPPER or COPPER TOUCHING METAL is best. NOT copper joined by SOLDER. If you like SOLDER, soldering PLUS crimping can work well in a car harness. ![]() It's obviously a lot more work than just crimping, but it's a lot stronger. Here's a video below demonstrating the use of solder AFTER crimping a battery lug. Below video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkMdlPsBxkc |
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SOLDER BUTT CONNECTORS |
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![]() These are popular, but be aware these are not miracle connectors. These do not offer a CRIMP. These have a low-temp melt solder inside that melts at a much lower temperature than normal solder. Normally a heat gun will not get hot enough to melt solder, but low-temp solder will melt as low as 200 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. I would not use these under my hood in an area that gets very hot, but these would be OK inside the car. The tubing will shrink and seal the connection, which is a good thing. |
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CRIMP AND SOLDER BUTT CONNECTORS | ||
![]() These butt connector have a metal butt crimp inside for a strong, secure connection, plus low-temp solder in the center, which will melt when heated. The plastic tube will also shrink down and seal the connection well (adhesive lined inside, which melts and glues the connection tight. These connectors are expensive, costing as much as almost $1.00 each. They come in sizes for wire in 18-20 AWG, 14-16 AWG, or 10-12 AWG. |
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WIRE TWIST BUTT JOINTS No Crimping, No Solder. |
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![]() ![]() There are a number of videos showing how to twist wire together effectively WITHOUT using solder or butt crimps. Here are a few methods below. Just keep handy a supply of some different sizes of HEAT-SHRINK TUBING to cover them. |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBw5hrV3aZM |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdTQ1W07GRE&t=251s |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSS6ZNCuiPI |
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DEUTSCH DT CONNECTORS |
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(Amphenol AT equivalent connectors are further below CLICK HERE) Hard to spell, but Deutsch connectors are very good. Fully sealed, easy to use connectors suitable for almost any automotive application. Deutsch connectors are sold by TE Connectivity, formerly Tyco Electronics. I like these connectors, so I thought I'd highlight them here. Most common types used for automotive: ![]() DT Connectors: 14-18 AWG, up to 13A rating, uses Size 16 contacts (terminals). https://www.mouser.com/new/te-connectivity/te-deutsch-dt-series-connectors/ ![]() DTP (Power) Series Connectors: 10-14 AWG, up to 25A rating, uses Size 12 contacts (terminals). For higher amp power connections up to 25 amps. https://www.mouser.com/new/te-connectivity/te-deutsch-dtp-connectors/
https://www.amphenol-sine.com/a-series-connectors Amphenol AT Series connectors are 100% interchangeable (every part) with Deutsch DT connectors. A comprehensive cross-reference is available here: https://www.amphenol-sine.com/DeutschConnectorsCrossReference.html Most common types used for automotive: ![]() AT Series Connectors: 14-22 AWG, up to 13A rating, uses Size 16 terminals. https://www.amphenol-sine.com/at-series ![]() ATP (Power) Series Connectors: 10-14 AWG, up to 25A rating, uses Size 12 terminals. For higher amp power connections up to 25 amps. https://www.amphenol-sine.com/atp-series
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