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     UPDATED: February 13, 2019                       CONTACT       
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Crimping Open Barrel Terminals
Assembling EFI Crimp Connectors

Crimping Open Barrel Terminals
What is an OPEN BARREL terminal? 
<<< It's an UN-INSULATED terminal with open "wings" as shown to the left. Those wings are crimped over the wire. 

<<< PROPER CRIMP tools are important.  Try not to use too cheap a crimper or the wrong type for the terminal you're using.  Buy yourself something at least as good as this one. 
For those of you who are curious about what crimper I use, this is it for 90% of my crimps for non-insulated open barrel and also many insulated terminals.  This is the Thomas & Betts model WT 112M. It runs about $40. I've had this one for 20 plus years. 

With some practice, this simple tool above can create nice crimps on open barrel terminals just like a fancy tool, although a fancy tool may take less time and may be a better answer if you're crimping a lot of terminals.
Check out my video below.

<<< For a tool that's a bit more fancy, look for a ratcheting style crimper that will do open barrel F type terminals.  You can spend a lot of money on one of these tools, but it you hunt carefully, you can find cheaper ones.  This one pictured is only around $30 for the crimper and several different crimping dies.  Sometimes you get what you pay for when buying CHEAP tools, so shop carefully and read reviews.

The crimp die type normally used for common open barrel terminals I use most often and offer in my pages is the die set in the center, which is similar to the BELOW larger photo.  The other dies might come in handy, so they would be a bonus.  I don't own this particular crimper.  My fancy racheting crimper was made by MSD and was about $80 more than ten years ago from Summit Racing. There are more options to choose from now. This one pictured is cheap and might be worth the cost, or it might explode! You can never really tell until it's in your hands.

HERE: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CVH8JNO?psc=1

Here's a good crimping guide for beginners:
http://www.xj4ever.com/crimping my style.pdf
<<< Here's the MSD ratcheting crimper I use for open barrel terminals when I want the fancy crimper.  I've had this one for 10 plus years. It's pretty expensive compared to what you can find these days for a lot less money, so shop around.

MSD crimper with ignition dies: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-35051/overview/ and optional open barrel dies: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-3506/overview/
Here's a decent video showing close-up crimping action for an open barrel terminal.

Assembling Typical EFI Crimp Connectors
These style connectors and terminals are available in Dave's Volvo Page: https://www.240turbo.com/blackvinyl.html#EFIplugs
<<< Here's a typical sealed connector housing found in many different Bosch style fuel injection systems.  This one has 6 poles and is most often used for a MAF (mass air flow) sensor. 

This connector housing uses a FEMALE crmp terminal, so this housing is known as a FEMALE housing. Inserting or removing a crimp terminal from one of these housings is easy, but if you're never done this before, this page will show you how.

Fuel Injection
                              2-Pole Plug<<<  Connector housings like these come in a number of different configurations.  The most common one is a 2-pole connector shown here used for a Bosch style fuel injector. This style connector is also known as an EV-1 connector.  They all use the same style crimp terminals that are inserted into these housings from the rear after being crimped onto a wire.

<<< Here's a typical ratcheting terminal crimper that works well for these EFI terminals (same MSD crimper described above). 
The below video will offer a quick view of this type of crimping operation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXDedfvmI_0   (length: 1:34)

The Terminals below are TYPE 1 EFI Terminals.
These terminals are most often found in Volvo engine harnesses up to approximately 1988.

<<< It may take some practice before your crimps come out just right.  The wire needs to be tightly crimped, so be sure to pull on the wire to test it.  It should not pull free.
<<< An EFI TYPE 1 terminal will have a single HOOK sticking out like that one on the underside. That hook will be what holds this terminal in place inside the connector housing. 
<<< As the TYPE 1 crimped terminal is inserted into the rear of the connector housing, that hook will click into place when it reaches the end and is fully inserted.

When fully inserted, you should hear the hook CLICK into place.

<<< Here's the backside of the EFI connector.  That hinged piece on the bottom is there to help lock in the wire or wire seals, if used. That hinged piece will not be present on all EFI connectors like this and there are plently of these connector without that part. Those work just as well.
<<< Here I'm inserting a crimped TYPE 1 terminal into the rear of the connector housing. It has a silicone wire seal installed on the wire before crimping the terminal. Some prefer crimping the seal onto the back of the terminal as you'll see below.

A wire seal like this is optional. If you decide to use a rubber boot on the back of this connector, a wire seal is not needed. 
<<<  Once the terminal is inserted, then the wire seal can be pushed up the wire and into the hole. 
<<< If your connector housing has the hinged piece, it can then be closed to lock in the wire and seal.  If your housing does not have it, you can certainly still insert a wire seal and it should stay in place without the need for a locking device, especially if you decide to crimp the wire seal onto the terminal as shown below.
<<< If you need to remove an EFI TYPE 1 terminal from a housing, a simple tool is used, which may be a sharp pick or even a micro screwdriver.  The pick is inserted into the front of the connector housing to reach that hook. The goal is to push that hook toward the terminal so it gets released from the housing and the terminal can then be pulled out the rear of the housing.

If you remove a terminal from a housing and intend to reuse or re-insert that terminal, first inspect the hook to make sure it's still sticking out. If you bent the hook inward, you may carefully re-bend it back outward so it'll click into place when inserted.

The Terminals below are TYPE 2 EFI Terminals.
These terminals are most often found in Volvo engine harnesses after 1988.
<<< An EFI TYPE 2 terminal will have TWO HOOKS sticking out like these on either side. These hooks will be what holds this terminal in place inside the connector housing.

In this photo a silicone wire seal has been added.  As mention above, this type of seal is optional.  It may be used instead of a rubber boot.  It you decide to use a rubber boot, then these seals are not needed.  This seal has been crimped onto the back of the terminal.  This is not required.  It's your preference.
<<< As the TYPE 2 crimped terminal is inserted into the rear of the connector housing, those two hooks will click into place when it reaches the end and is fully inserted.

When fully inserted, you should hear the hooks CLICK into place.
Since the TYPE 2 terminal has two hooks, it will be a little more difficult to remove from the connector housing.  It's possible to use a pick as shown in the TYPE 1 section above, or possibly two picks, however the proper tool for such removal is shown here.

This tool is inserted as shown to depress the two hooks at the same time.

<<< Here we have a rubber boot that mates to the connector housing. If you're using a rubber boot, then using wire seals will not be necessary.
These connectors are available in Dave's Volvo Page: https://www.240turbo.com/blackvinyl.html#EFIplugs

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