2 4 0 T U R B O . C O M
D A V E ' S   V O L V O   P A G E
Installing a Custom Turbo Oil Drain
for Volvo Turbo Red Block

     UPDATED: February 11, 2022        CONTACT  
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Custom Turbo Oil Drain Hose for Volvo Turbo Red Block
Using a Yoshifab Fitting
When Volvo designed the 240 Turbo engine they used a rigid steel drain pipe for the turbo oil return (same design for later 740 Turbo and 940 Turbo). The lower part of the pipe was designed to seal into the hole in the block. Despite having a rubber o-ring on the pipe, these tubes usually leaked at the block. 

If you fit a non-original turbo like I did (Mitsubishi TD04HL 15G), you'll probably find the rigid pipe no longer works. I was using a cobbled together pipe for years.

I'm happy to report that Yoshifab has brought the red block drain pipe into the 21st century by introducing a new custom hose fitting that fits into the existing hole in the block and allows you to use modern racing hose and fittings for a much better drain system. 

This new fitting was really good news to me because I really hated the drain tube I had cobbled together (BELOW) to fit my
Mitsubishi TD04HL 15G turbo (from an 850 Turbo).  I installed this turbo to a late model (90+) exhaust manifold. Using this turbo meant a standard metal oil drain pipe would no longer fit.  The pipe I made was functional, but I didn't trust the soft hose there in the middle due to the extreme heat it was subjected to (even though it was reinforced silicone construction). 
  It failed at least one other time over the years (second photo).  Silicone hose is not designed for such continuous heat and I just knew it would eventually fail again.


So I bought the Yoshifab Turbo Red Block -10 Oil Return Conversion Kit and installed it in my 242 Turbo.
The kit can be found at: https://yoshifab.com/store/turbo-red-block-10-oil-return-conversion-kit.html. 
This fitting is designed to fit precisely into the existing Volvo block drain hole.

<<< The fit is so precise that the instructions call for this fitting to be placed in the freezer before tapping it into the hole.  Yoshifab supplies an adhesive to seal and secure the fitting.  The top of the fitting is threaded for a standard -10 AN racing hose fitting that you can buy anywhere. 


NOTE: This only works for factory turbo red-block engines (B21FT, B230FT, etc). Non-turbo engines do not have this existing hole for the oil drain. The ID of this drain hole is reported to be 25.15 mm according to: https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/366774/

Here's a video showing how this fitting is installed.

If you have a B21F, B23F or B230F block (with NO HOLE already drilled), then this is obviously not a direct fit.  You could certainly drill a hole. 
The size of that hole is not known to me.  Anyone know?

I bought a 3 foot section of hose to go along with the fittings.  I chose PTFE core stainless steel braided hose, which has a Teflon inner core. PTFE hose is designed for hot, high-pressure oil and has high temperature rating of 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  This item: SUM-2201010 Hose, PTFE, Braided Stainless Steel, -10 AN, 3 ft. Length. Found here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-2201010.
You can choose whatever AN hose you prefer. PTFE hose is rated for higher temps, but is not as flexible as a rubber core hose, such as Aeroquip Socketless that's discuss further below.

AN racing style hose internal dimensions are measured in 1/16th of an inch increments. 
-8 AN is 8/16th of an inch ID (1/2 inch).  -10 AN is 10/16ths of an inch ID (5/8 inch).
Yes, it's that simple! 

<<< I bought TWO of these AN hose end fittings at Summit Racing: SUM-250090B Hose End, for PTFE -10 AN Female Black Aluminum. Found here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-250090B. 

<<< These are Tube Ferrules. One of these goes into the above hose end fitting. Hose end fittings like this are re-usable, but it's important to note that if you disassemble one after it's been installed, you must replace the TUBE FERRULE before re-installing. The ferrule is designed to get crushed against the hose liner during assembly and the old ferrule is NOT reuseable.  Replacement tube ferrules are available. The -10 AN fittings above use .625 inch ID cone style ferrules like those found here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-620505/.

Assembling PTFE hose ends is not difficult, but you'll need some guidance if it's your first time.  There are good instructions here: http://anfittingguide.com/install-ptfe-hose-fittings/. 

And a good video on assembly HERE.

<<< I found this -10AN Aluminum Turbo Oil Return Drain Flange on eBay to fit my Mitsubishi TD04 turbo. 

 Here is my new assembled drain hose ready to go in.  Overall length for my new hose was 16 inches . . . .

  . . . however it could have been shorter by at least 2 inches and it would still fit just fine. 
Now I have piece of mind that if something is going to break, it will not be that drain hose. 

This PTFE hose is rated at 400 degrees Fahrenheit, but a DISADVANTAGE of using this hose is that's it's pretty RIGID, which can make it difficult to make sharp bends. 

If you need something more flexible, have a look at the below alternatives.

Keep in mind that if your engine has a later (740/940) style oil filter mount like shown below, then your hose may need a 45 degree fitting at the end going to the block, or it might interfere with the oil filter.

More Flexible PTFE Alternative

910 PTFE Lined Aramid Braided Lightweight Racing Hose
Rated to 338 degrees Fahrenheit.

  If you're looking for something more flexible, perhaps a rubber type hose will suit you better. 
will tell you they prefer using Aeroquip Socketless hose. This is a rubber core hose that uses special barbed hose fittings. Assembly is much faster and easier and routing them is easier because they're more flexible.
Aeroquip Socketless
hose is rated to 300 degrees Fahrenheit.
More general info can be found here:

Oetiker Clamp
While no clamps are technically required for Aeroquip Socketless hose, Yoshifab recommends adding a clamp when using this hose, especially if it will be carrying high pressure oil.  A simple Oetiker Clamp or Pinch Clamp is the recommended type and may be easily found at Summit Racing, Grainger or other parts suppliers.

Here are some videos showing how Oetiker clamps are installed:

And REMOVING one of these clamps is fairly easy if you know how.
One method: 

Here's a good resource for general AN hose and fitting sizes, dimensions, thread pitches, etc.
It helps explain many different types of AN fittings and standard thread pitches used.

Here's a good video on cutting stainless braided hoses:

Here's a good video on assembling PTFE hose fittings:


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