I began looking closer at brushless fans after I saw some videos and test data, which suggested SOME brushless fans
can significantly out-perform a brushed fan with higher speeds, more CFM airflow, and all while using LESS AMPERAGE.
I'll get into some performance test comparisons further down, but
there's one very interesting thing I have found during testing that I wasn't
aware of (since I'm not super experienced with these). These fans sometimes become more efficient
at higher voltage levels. I began testing at 12.7v static battery
levels and and then at 14.5v with the engine running and alternator charging. In many tests, a
brushless fan spins faster and pushes more airflow with LESS amperage
draw when used at the HIGHER voltage level.
DELTA PAG BRUSHLESS FANS
There are a few videos showing these aftermarket fans performing very well. In 2015 Delta PAG https://deltapag.com
introduced a 16 inch brushless fan which is shown in the below first video.
Delta PAG rates their 16 inch fan at 3200 CFM at 13 volts, using
about 22 amps. Maximum RPM is about 2900. They've stated their
ratings are done with a radiator in front of the
fan, which will reduce flow, so in free-air tests, the actual CFM
results should be higher than the rating they give. They also state
that they're able to achieve 25% more airflow than other brushless fans
because their motors are much smaller in diameter and that allows more
flow. Other brushless fan motors are much larger in diameter,
because they
contain speed control electronics inside of them. It seems logical that
those wider motor cases
take up more space and potentially reduce some airflow. Delta PAG has made their
speed
control modules a separate part, which is mounted nearby and away from
the airflow.
Delta PAG offers a controller with digital displays for programming the temp-speeds.
A mechanical drawing of their 16 inch fan is shown in their web site.
The 16 inch measurement refers to the overall width of the fan assembly
at the outside (16.00 inches). So this means the fan blade diameter is actually about 15 inches. This
type of measurement seems to be common with some fan
manufacturers, so keep this in mind when considering the fan sizes you
want.
The larger Delta PAG 18 inch fan was introduced more recently and is rated by them at 4100 CFM at 13
volts, using about 26 amps, Maximum RPM is about 2900. Again the CFM rating is assuming there's a
radiator installed.
In the below video you'll see their newer 18 inch fan tested in FREE AIR at 5100 CFM using an anemometer.
COMMENTS ABOUT
RELIABILITY OF ANEMOMETER (CFM) TESTING
I'm always curious as to what calculations some people are using in their
anemometer tests. I was curious about that 5100 CFM
test in the video. If they rate this fan at
4100 CFM with the restriction of a radiator, it
appears we might need to accept that a radiator restriction can reduce
flow by 20% (or more) to 4100 CFM. That initially did seem like a lot to
me. Later (further below) I was able to do some FREE AIR air and INSTALLED "side-by-side" tests using the Jeep brushless fan and I discovered such a big drop in air flow
is easily possible.
I will also point out this 18 inch
Delta-PAG fan (ABOVE IMAGE) does NOT have 18 inch fan blades (I added the red dimension to this image).
This fan measures 18.11 inches at the outside of the shroud assembly. So the fan blade diameter is about 17 inches.
I'm not saying this is bad. This fan may out-perform larger, more powerful fans from
other manufacturers. My point is that I don't know if other people are
considering the ACTUAL FAN SIZE when testing CFM. Accurate anemometer
tests require an accurate fan area to be used. I've seen at least one other test of this 18 inch fan using an anemometer where
the tester used the fan area for an 18 inch fan
(instead of 17 inches) and then he ALSO failed to deduct the area of
the center hub. Then he announced a finding of 3900-4000 CFM. Entering an exaggerated cubic foot value into an anemometer always results in an exaggerated CFM reading.
Ultimately, I think you can use anemometer CFM tests as an estimation tool,
but true comparisons are probably not possible unless two fans are tested with
the same anemometer or same method, and with consistent fan area calculations.
HOW FAR OFF COULD SOME TESTS BE?
Using the above example, if someone uses the area calculation for an 18 inch fan when they actually have
a 17 inch fan, it can result in an exaggeration of about 6%, or about 250 CFM.
And if that person fails to deduct the area for the center hub,
this will result in error too, although Delta-PAG fans have a really
small hub. It would be a smaller error. About 3% or about 120 CFM. This
kind of
error with other brushless fans with much larger center hubs can result
in errors of
about 6-8%.
Are there any draw-backs to a Delta PAG fan?
I have not found any draw-backs with the fans (I don't own one). There is one draw-back I see with the
controller. At time of writing this the Delta-PAG controller cannot
provide a lower speed for an AC override. It can only do FULL-SPEED
(same as using the full-speed toggle switch). If I'm using a
super high-output fan, I prefer to not have it run at FULL-SPEED unless
it's really necessary, and I can flick on the full-speed toggle for THAT.
I emailed Delta PAG and to their credit they said they're working on
creating
custom firmware in the future, which may be available in late 2023. They
would not provide any specifics, so I can only hope they mean they'll
offer a better AC override in the future.
If you're interested in a LOT more information
about these fans (not posted in their page), there's a long-winded
discussion at this link below in a Corvette C7 forum. This link
takes you to page 3, where the serious discussion begins. You'll see.
https://www.tbssowners.com/threads/c7-pwm-brushless-control.241568/page-3
SPAL BRUSHLESS FANS
Spal Italy: https://www.spalautomotive.it/brushless
Spal USA site has some catalog info showing brushless fans, but it does not show a listing of brushless fans: https://www.spalusa.com/
I believe Spal introduced their new line of aftermarket
brushless fans in 2014 with sizes up to 16 inches. These were called the
NUOVA series.
An announcement believed to have been dated 2014 is below:
SPAL USA INTRODUCES NEW BRUSHLESS FAN TECHNOLOGY TO THE AUTOMOTIVE AFTERMARKET
SPAL
USA, a global leader in the production of high quality electric cooling
fans and accessories, is excited to announce their new “NUOVA”
brushless fan line.
SPAL “NUOVA” series brushless fans features include:
•Completely sealed/waterproof/dustproof motors with integrated power and signal electronics,
•"Soft start” technology (eliminates electrical in-rush spike),
•Digitally controlled for smooth and reliable operation,temperature sensor options for full variable speed control.
•Reduced axial dimensions and low weight,
•High efficiency, low noise, along with excellent resistance to vibration and harshness (NVH) levels.
In
addition, the brushless design reduces the number of wear components
versus standard brushed technology to deliver extremely long-lasting
motor life as well as provide automatic power de-rating to guarantee
performance in over-temperature operating conditions.
SPAL
brushless technology is specifically designed for applications where
low power consumption, fuel economy, low weight, advanced electronic
control and high efficiency are key requirements.
SPAL THEN INVERTS THE PWM SIGNAL RAMPS ON THEIR AFTERMARKET FANS
I don't know what year this change was made. I have been told Spal
discovered that they were selling lots of the "smart" sensors needed to
run these new fans, but instead of selling their new (expensive)
aftermarket fans, they discovered people were using the sensors for less
expensive OEM C7 Corvette (2014+) and Gen6 Camaro (2016+) brushless fans
(which are also made by Spal). Then Spal decided to discontinue the "smart"
sensors that worked with Corvette and Camaro fans and create new sensors
which CHANGED the PWM duty cycle ramps. And they changed all their
new aftermarket fans to match the new sensors. The new aftermarket fans were
then called the PLUS series and the NUOVA series was eliminated. From that point forward all new Spal "smart"
sensors would only work with their second generation PLUS series fans, and OEM (Spal) fan users were tossed out in the cold.
FIRST GENERATION "SMART" SENSORS (no longer available from Spal).
PWM duty cycle ramp is set for LOW speed = 85%. HIGH speed = 15% (Negative polarity).
SBL-TS01: Turn on 140F - Max at 165F.
SBL-TS02: Turn on 165F - Max at 185F.
SBL-TS03: Turn on 190F - Max at 215F.
If you still need one of these, CLICK HERE for Vintage Air.
SUMMARY OF CHANGE 1st Gen to 2nd Gen:
Spal NUOVA series (first generation aftermarket):
Fan speed decreases as PWM duty cycle signal increases. This is an INVERTED ramp. OEM C7 Corvette and Gen6
Camaro brushless (Spal) fans also use this type of PWM signal.
Spal PLUS series (second generation aftermarket): Fan speed INCREASES as PWM duty cycle signal increases (OEM fans all retained the old PWM ramps).
SECOND GENERATION "SMART" SENSORS (for PLUS series aftermarket fans)
PWM duty cycle ramp is set for LOW speed = 15%. HIGH speed = 85%
(Positive polarity).
SBL-TS-165P: Turn on 140F -
Max at 165F.
SBL-TS-185P: Turn on 165F -
Max at 185F.
SBL-TS-195P: Turn on 175F -
Max at 195F.
SBL-TS-215P: Turn on 190F -
Max at 215F.
(Note: Multiple fans can be run using one sensor)
The connector on this fan is this 4-pole MALE plug.
I found the matching FEMALE connector after searching for Spal PN 30130628 in Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTDGNGT. This is the same plug used for the Camaro fan and the Jeep fan in this page.
Can Spal "Smart" Sensors be used for other Brushless Fans?
Yes, for some. Spal fans require a controller or sensor which uses a 100 Hz PWM frequency.
Many other fans use that frequency. If you find a fan which uses 100
Hz, that fan must also use a PWM duty cycle ramp like that used by the
Spal Plus series, one that powers the fan at low speed when the PWM duty
cycle is low (Positive polarity). Keep in mind that some fans will share the same
frequency, but the duty cycle ramp may be INVERTED. For more
information on how PWM signals work, CLICK HERE for PWM Info section.
If you have a need to INVERT the polarity of a PWM signal, it can be done. There are some devices
SHOWN HERE which can do this for you.
Here's a diagram below showing how one of the above Spal sensors is wired to a Spal Plus aftermarket brushless fan.
Note that a brushless fan always has both
power and ground going to the battery (or ground going to chassis ground). The
speed/temperature control is regulated through the PWM signal wire.
Here are my personal feelings about using a "smart" sensor like this to regulate temp/speed:
I don't really care for it. If forces
you to choose one temperature range and live with it. It allows no custom
adjustments. Changing sensors is really expensive. Check the prices of
those. They cost as much as a normal fan.
Also if you have AC and you want the fan to come on with the AC, your
only choice is to wire it so the AC triggers the full speed
override.
Maybe some people are OK with the fan running full
speed when your AC is on. That won't be too be bad if the fan is
smaller, but when using a big, high-output fan, I prefer to be able to
choose a custom speed for the AC (such as 50%,
70%, etc). Ok, I know you can't ALWAYS
have everything you want, but going brushless is a LOT more expensive,
so I would like to get more satisfaction for my money if I can.
Keep in mind that full speed with a high-output brushless fan can move a
LOT MORE AIR and it might use more amps than you want, compared to a brushed fan.
Should a RELAY be used with a Brushless Fan?
According to Spal:
“Relays are used with brushed fans, and not used with brushless fans. As
brushless fans are growing in popularity, we have had a few customers
try to add a relay to a brushless system when a relay isn’t required. We
don’t need a relay with brushless fans because they always do a soft
start. In a brushless fan system, the fan is connected to constant power
– directly to the battery. When the brushless fan receives the command
signal to run, it makes a connection internal to the motor and runs.
When the command signal goes away, the brushless fans enter quiescent
current (sleep) mode.”
SOURCE:
https://www.streetmusclemag.com/tech-stories/fuel-cooling-ignition-tech/the-7-best-practices-for-wiring-automotive-fans-with-spal-usa/.
Here are some specs for a couple Spal brushless 16 inch fans.
From info I found in the Spal fan engineering catalog, the
2430 CFM fan above (500 watt motor) will use about 30-33 amps at full speed. The
2053 CFM fan (300 watt motor) will used about 20 amps.
These results are maybe a little better than the performance numbers for
their similar brushed fans. So choosing a brushless Spal based on CFM
and amperage draw are probably not the best reasons.
Spal also shows an 18 inch brushless fan in their online catalog info: https://www.spalautomotive.it/brushless,
but so far I
have not found it actually being offered for sale anywhere. For my use,
I would prefer a single fan with CFM in the range of 3500 to 4000.
NOTE: SPAL FANS REQUIRE A 100 Hz PWM FREQUENCY.
"19 inch?" VOLVO XC90 Brushless Fan (2003-2014)
I'm pretty sure that not all Volvos during these years got brushless fans, but it certainly appears most XC90s did.
This fan was made by BOSCH and will bear Volvo PN 31111543.
I began making a dimension diagram below, but I don't actually have the dimensions yet.
If you have one of these fans and can take some PRECISE measurements, please let me know.
-- DIMENSIONS NEEDED --
As mentioned in the title, this is supposedly a 19 inch fan, although I expect to find out the actual fan BLADE diameter is about 18 inches.
The internet is wrong often, so the precise fan diameter needs to be confirmed.
If that fan diameter is correct, then I think
the shroud should be around 22 inches wide and about 21 inches tall.
This fan reportedly has an inverted PWM duty cycle ramp (Negative polarity), meaning the fan will run slower when up near 90% duty cycle and it'll run faster when down near 15%.
THIS FAN REQUIRES A 100 Hz PWM FREQUENCY.
Reference:
https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/xc90-pwm-fan-settings.621587/
Brushless fans will usually
have 3 or 4 wires. This one seems to have 3 wires, even though the
connector on the fan is a 4-pole plug. The two fat wires will be
power and ground. The smaller wire here may be PURPLE and it will be the PWM
speed signal wire. I'm not yet familiar with this type of connector or a source for finding one.
"19 inch" (18 inch) Camaro Brushless 11 Blade Fan
(2016+ SS or ZL1)
Gen 6 Camaro SS and ZL1 versions (850 watt motor)
appear to be the ones that got the biggest brushless fans in the GM car
line-up. I believe a similar fan is also used in some later Cadillac CT
and CTS models. These fans were made for GM by Spal.
It's NOT really a 19 inch fan. See more below.
The fan pictured below is GM PN 23332215. I believe other part numbers for this fan will be 23455465 and 84100128.
-- DIMENSIONS --
This fan will be called a "19 inch" fan
by most people all over the internet, but it's NOT REALLY.
The actual fan blade diameter is 18 inches (11 blades).
The outer ring on the fan blade is 19 inches, but that ring does nothing to push air.
So it's accurate to call this fan and 18 inch.
The connector on this fan is this 4-pole MALE plug, but the
fan uses 3 wires, so only three poles are used on that plug.
I found the matching FEMALE connector after searching for Spal PN 30130628 in Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTDGNGT. This is the same plug used for the Spal fans and the Jeep fan in this page.
This fan has some fascinating performance.
From internet info, I expected this fan would have a standard PWM duty cycle ramp
because there are sources on the internet which say that. The OPPOSITE is
true.
I found this fan has an INVERTED PWM ramp (Negative polarity).
So keep in mind the internet can be a liar.
Negative polarity means LOW speed begins when duty cycle is reduced below 85-90%. HIGH speed maximum is at 10% duty cycle.
THIS FAN REQUIRES A 100 Hz PWM FREQUENCY.
850w Camaro Brushless Fan Testing (2023)
Tested in free air.
12.7v (static): 10% duty cycle 5300 CFM (2600 RPM). 50 amps.
12.7v (static): 20% duty cycle 5200 CFM. 45 amps.
12.7v (static): 25% duty cycle 5000 CFM. 38 amps.
12.7v (static): 30% duty cycle 4600 CFM. 32 amps.
12.7v (static): 35% duty cycle 4400 CFM. 27 amps.
12.7v (static): 40% duty cycle 4000 CFM. 23 amps.
12.7v (static): 45% duty cycle 3800 CFM. 18 amps.
See further below for 50% duty cycle test.
12.7v (static): 60% duty cycle 3000 CFM. 11 amps.
12.7v (static): 65% duty cycle 2600 CFM. 9 amps.
12.7v (static): 75% duty cycle 2000 CFM. 6 amps.
12.7v (static): 85% duty cycle 1360 CFM. 4 amps.
Below tests were done with engine running for full voltage.
Tested in free air.
14.5v: 50% duty cycle. 3300-3400 CFM. 13.6-13.9 amps.
14.5v: 10% duty cycle (full power) 5690 CFM (2800 RPM). 50-53 amps.
Yes, 50 plus amps is a LOT, but I can't think of a reason why you would ever need this fan to run at full speed.
However if you want to, I strongly recommend a super high output alternator with dual V-belts or a good serpentine belt.
These last two tests above are shown in the below video (except for RPM).
The low amp draw at 50% (3400 CFM) is very impressive.
The full power test pulled the battery voltage down from 14.4v at (50%) to 13.7v (at full power). So you really SHOULD NOT run this fan at full power for AC or
for any reason, except maybe for a trip to the sun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZ9Vi3JUjsA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KEYcQFQwd4
The above CFM testing was done using the same anemometer used by
Fast Monty's
Garage in his video along with the same fan area calculation methods:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYkuNP1RnoM&t=26s
Aiomest AN-846A anemometer purchased from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088QZ3689
VINTAGE AIR CUSTOM (with CAMARO 850w) FANS
Here are some interesting custom fan assemblies that Vintage Air
is offering. These all have 850w Camaro 11 blade fans mounted in
custom, compact shrouds. Not cheap, but it's a very nice effort by them.
850w fan PN 371252:
https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=371252
850w fan PN 371253:
https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=371253
850w fan PN 280479:
https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=280479
850w fan PN 280483:
https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=280483
Vintage Air is also offering "Smart" sensors for use with the above Camaro fans.
Since Spal no longer offers sensors like these that can work
for a Camaro fan, I can only guess that either Spal has provided custom
sensors to Vintage Air or Vintage Air has created their own.
850w Fan Sensor for 160 F thermostat. PN 113019: https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=113019
850w Fan Sensor for 180 F thermostat. PN 113021: https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=113021
850w Fan Sensor for 195 F thermostat. PN 113018: https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=113018
"19 inch" (18 inch) JEEP JK "Pentastar" Brushless Fan
This fan is found on 2012-2018 Jeep JK (Wrangler) vehicles with a 3.6 liter engine.
Some original factory fan labels are shown above. I believe the Mopar PN is
68143894AB, which I have not seen on any fan label.
These labels above show the manufacturer as Johnson Electric and "Made in
Italy." These labels also show a date of manufacture, which will probably be from 2011
to 2017.
Aftermarket versions of this fan are also available: Dorman
621-601 is available and at least one other aftermarket manufacturer (unknown who). The unknown ones are common on eBay.
I used and tested this Dorman fan below.
-- DIMENSIONS --
This fan will commonly be called a "19 inch Pentastar"
by lots of people on the internet.
The actual fan blade diameter is 18 inches.
The outer ring on the fan blade is larger (19 inches across), but that outer ring does nothing to push air.
NOTE ABOUT DIFFERENT BLADE COUNTS:
The above images (which I stole from the internet) show a 9 blade fan. I bought a Dorman aftermarket fan. It has
7 blades.
So I took a look at a number of used original Mopar fans on eBay and every one I found had 7 blades.
So I'm not sure where the 9 blade fan is from. And I have no idea if the number of blades makes any difference in
performance for this fan.
CONNECTOR
The connector on this fan is this
4-pole MALE plug. This fan has 3 wires, so only three poles on the plug are used.
The matching FEMALE connector may be found by searching for Spal PN 30130628 in Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTDGNGT. This is the same plug used for the Spal fans and the Camaro fan in this page.
The below video from 2016 discusses this fan and compares it to
the previous 17 inch brushed fan that this fan replaced in Jeeps
beginning in 2012.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2so93C02W9Q
I tested the Dorman version of this fan.
Dorman
PN 621-601.
I
don't know yet what the WATT RATING is for the motor on this fan, but
it appears to not be as powerful as the Camaro fan. This fan also ramps up a bit
slower than the Camaro fan. Keep in mind that
the fan being tested is from Dorman, so it's not an original factory fan. I cannot
verify if the performance of this fan is equal to that of an original
Johnson Electric version, however I think Dorman has a good reputation
for quality and Chinese manufacturers are certainly capable of accurately copying
the specs of an OEM fan.
This fan has a STANDARD PWM ramp (Positive Polarity), opposite of the Camaro fan.
This means LOW speed begins when duty cycle is increased to 10% or higher. HIGH speed maximum is achieved at 85% duty cycle.
THIS FAN REQUIRES A 10 Hz PWM FREQUENCY.
I've been told a 10 Hz frequency is also used by Mercedes.
Jeep JK Brushless Fan Testing (2023)
I figured since I was installing this fan I'd do some extra testing.
A bunch of speed and CFM tests were done at two different voltage levels
(12.7 volts on battery only and 14.5 volts with engine running and
charging).
They were also done with the fan in FREE AIR and also INSTALLED. Free
air means there are no obstructions. Installed means there's a
radiator, intercooler and AC condenser in front of the fan. Also
of note, the lower 4 inches of the INSTALLED fan has a barrier that
probably has some obstructing affect. That can be seen in the below installed photos.
Duty Cycle
|
RPM
at 12.7v
|
CFM
at 12.7v
|
Amps
at 12.7v
|
RPM
at 14.5v
|
CFM
at 14.5v
|
Amps
at 14.5v
|
10% Free Air
|
730
|
1180
|
1.3
|
760
|
1280
|
1.25
|
10% Installed
|
730
|
800
|
2.7
|
740
|
850
|
1.35
|
15% Free Air
|
860
|
1360
|
1.8
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
15% Installed
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
20% Free Air
|
980
|
1750
|
2.5
|
|
|
|
20%
Installed
|
1000
|
1100
|
2.7
|
980
|
1150
|
2.7
|
25% Free Air
|
1100
|
1900
|
3.5
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
25% Installed
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
30% Free Air
|
1225
|
2200
|
5.0
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
30% Installed
|
1280
|
1350
|
5.3
|
1230
|
1420
|
4.7
|
35% Free Air
|
1350
|
2450
|
7.0
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
35% Installed
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
40% Free Air
|
1475
|
2800
|
8.3
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
40% Installed
|
1475
|
1880
|
9.0
|
1475
|
1720
|
7.6
|
45% Free Air
|
1600
|
2900
|
11.0
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
45% Installed
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
50% Free Air
|
1720
|
3100
|
13.0
|
1740
|
3200
|
11.0
|
50% Installed
|
1720
|
2200
|
14.2
|
1720
|
2550
|
11.9
|
55% Free Air
|
1840
|
3300
|
16
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
55% Installed
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
60% Free Air
|
1970
|
3500
|
19.8
|
--- |
--- |
---
|
60% Installed
|
1970
|
280
0
|
21.7
|
1960
|
3000
|
17.8
|
65% Free Air
|
2100
|
3800
|
24
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
65%
Installed
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
70% Free Air
|
2200
|
4100
|
29
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
70
% Installed
|
2270
|
3200
|
31
|
2200
|
3300
|
26
|
75% Free Air
|
2320
|
4250
|
34
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
75% Installed
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
---
|
85% Free Air
|
2460
|
4600
|
40
|
2580
|
5000
|
39.0
|
85% Installed
|
2420
|
3700
|
42.8
|
2580
|
3800
|
43.5
|
|
85% is maximum speed. This fan will run at values above 85%, but
entering above 85% resulted in no appreciable increase in speed or
power consumption.
It's interesting how in some tests this fan produced more air flow
with less amp usage at 14.5 volts compared to 12.7 volts. It seems that brushless fans really like higher voltage levels.
|
https://youtu.be/ZOdyyxAyGgw
Some installation photos for my Volvo.
Since
this fan is taller than my 17 inch tall radiator, several inches of the
shroud will hang below the radiator. So that portion must be sealed off
with a barrier wall.
I
began with a piece of aluminum bar stock to give the barrier stability.
It looks close to the blades in the above photo, but it's actually more
than 1/2 inch.
Some thin aluminum sheeting was fitted.
Edges sealed with duct tape.
View from the front of the fan.
Electrical connection.
Top brackets made with some aluminum.
Lots of EXTRA room between the fan and engine compared with the Mark VIII fan.
Further installation info for this fan can be found further below in the Fan Controller Section HERE.
Dual 12 inch Chevy Volt Brushless Fans
This fan assembly is found on a 2011-15 Chevy Volt.
These fans were made by Spal for GM, so an original Chevy Volt fan
assembly will have a Spal label like these. Original PN: GM3115258.
Spal rates their 12 inch aftermarket brushless fans (PN
VA89-ABL320P/N-94A) at 1800 CFM (at 13v), using about 23-27 amps at full
speed (per fan).
There are also AFTERMARKET Volt fans that are made by Four Seasons or TYC. TYC PN 623170:
https://www.amazon.com/TYC-623170-Chevrolet-Replacement-Condenser/dp/B00X1MDO2U.
This fan assembly is too wide for most Volvo 240s, unless you have a
much larger radiator than stock. Since this fan is popular among
hot-rodders, it's a good addition here.
The connectors on this are a
4-pole MALE plug. These fans have 3 wires each, so only three poles are used.
The matching FEMALE connector may be found by searching for Spal PN 30130628 in Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTDGNGT.
Here's
one of these fans being used for a project.
https://www.s10forum.com/threads/volt-brushless-spal-fans-upgrade.873430/
This installer used a
Widget Man controller.
Like other Spal OEM fans, THESE REQUIRE A 100 Hz PWM FREQUENCY and have Negative polarity.
Here's a video of these fans:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EYu5jVBvKA
Activating a Brushless Fan
You got to see a preview of one way a brushless fan can be activated in the Spal section above.
This section below will go into much more detail.
SIMPLIFIED BRUSHLESS FAN DIAGRAM
Keep in mind that there are a number of PWM fan speed controllers
available now. Many are specifically made for BRUSHED fans only. Those controllers are not
designed for use with a
brushless fan, because the way they connect to the fan is different.
Brushed fans are not wired and not controlled the same as brushless
fans.
If a brushed fan controller
manufacturer claims theirs will work for both brushed and brushless
motors, that should be questioned and verified.
This is discussed more in a section below.
Feel free to ask me for clarification or if you have a comment, please email:
CONTACT.
A BRUSHLESS DC motor has at least three wires.
1. Power to Battery Positive
2. Ground to Battery Negative or chassis ground.
3. PWM signal wire.
4. A 4th wire may be present on some brushless fans (Spal aftermarket for example).
It will probably be an "Analog" signal wire used for other options.
PWM SIGNAL
Some brushless fans can be connected to run without a controller or a PWM signal. In
these cases the fan will run at full speed. Otherwise, a PWM signal is
needed to regulate speed on a brushless fan.
A PWM signal is generated at a specific frequency, which is measured in Hertz (Hz).
A Hertz frequency will be measured by the number of cycles in one second. The above example is
10 cycles, so this would be a frequency of 10 Hz.
A 10 Hz frequency is used by the Jeep JK fan and also by Mercedes Benz.
A 100 Hz frequency is used by Spal and Volvo fans (and some others).
A simple explanation of a duty cycle is to think of it this
way. (ABOVE IMAGE): A 25% duty cycle can be viewed as a voltage signal that quickly pulses
25% ON and then 75% OFF.
The fan speed is changed or regulated by the
duty cycle. It can be changed, allowing it to vary between ZERO% and 100% (or sometimes between 10% and 90%).
POLARITY:
If a fan speeds up as the duty cycle is increased, then that fan has
POSITIVE POLARITY. This type of fan reads and responds to the HIGH voltage "ON" at the TOP of the duty cycle.
Some fans have NEGATIVE POLARITY. This type of fan will slow down as the duty cycle is increased.
This type of fan reads and responds to the lower voltage "OFF" at the BOTTOM of the duty cycle.
--------------------------
Can a NEGATIVE Polarity Fan be used with a POSITIVE Polarity PWM signal?
No, it should not be used that way, however if you have a situation like this, it's possible to INVERT the polarity of a PWM signal.
There are some devices
SHOWN HERE which can do this for you
.
---------------------------
In the below video, an inexpensive PWM signal generator is used to test
and run an OEM Ford Fusion brushless fan. The user has the frequency set for 100 Hz. Then he activates and varies the fan speed by reducing or increasing the duty
cycle to different percent levels.
As mentioned previously, some fans use an INVERTED PWM signal (Negative Polarity).
This one in the video is a good example of that. This fan comes on at 85 or 90% (slow speed) and then speeds up as
the duty cycle is reduced, with full speed at or near 10% duty cycle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMEXpVuxNhk
Activating a BRUSHLESS Fan using a BRUSHED Fan Controller
Can you activate a BRUSHLESS
fan using a controller designed for a BRUSHED fan? I don't know for sure YET, but my first thought was probably NOT.
Am i WRONG?
I began using an AutoCoolGuy controller for my Mark VIII fan in 2018. More about that is in the
Cooling Fan Project Page 1 HERE.
If you look at the Autocoolguy site,
he claims (ABOVE) his controllers can control brushed or brushless fans.
Since I don't know, I began asking questions HOW.
Darryl at Autocoolguy told me that if you have a brushless fan, which can be made
to run at full-speed (like a normal fan) by connecting certain wires to power and ground,
then the fan speed can be controlled using an Autocoolguy controller.
From my limited research so far, the only BRUSHLESS fans that can be made to run at full-speed this way are those with FOUR WIRES.
A 4 wire fan has two smaller wires; a PWM wire and an Analog wire. If you review the below linked Spal "Drive Control Modes" document,
it will explain how a Spal aftermarket brushless fan (which has 4
wires) may be connected without a controller or sensor in a number
of specific ways. Some of these will force the fan to run at
full-speed, similar to any normal DC brushed fan.
https://www.spalautomotive.it/documents/20182/94723/DRIVE+CONTROL+MODES.pdf/
Two such listed "Drive Modes" (Interface Mode 1 and Interface Mode 2) are activated by connecting the power and ground cables normally, then the
Analog wire is connected to the power cable and the PWM wire is connected to the ground cable.
When I emailed Darryl at Autocoolguy and asked him to provide more specific
information on how his
controllers will regulate speed in this situation, he did not respond.
So my only guess is he means for his controller to be connected to the
fan in the same manner as a brushed fan, using the ground cable to the fan as
the PWM speed regulator. Hopefully a brushless fan
will respond to this as he thinks it will. It would be a shame if this
caused problems or damage to a
brushless fan. Also the question of polarity comes to mind. He's not responding to my follow-up emails.
If anyone knows more, please let me know:
CONTACT.
BRUSHLESS FAN CONTROLLERS
There are a number of aftermarket
modern engine management systems that will offer programmed (or
programmable) PWM signal
outputs for activating a brushless fan. Some of them can be fully
customized. Also some OEM engine management systems will offer
this, such as GM LS engine systems. I will not be going into detail on
these, since there's a lot of info and each system is different.
DELTA-PAG
I've listed detailed information about the Delta-PAG brushless controller in the above
Delta-PAG section. I have not personally tried one of these fans or controllers. I would welcome your comments if you have any to offer.
SPAL
I have already discussed the Spal "Smart" Sensors in a previous section.
Those are designed for Spal Plus aftermarket brushless fans, but they
may be used for other brushless fans, as long as they use a 100 Hz PMW frequency and a
STANDARD duty cycle ramp (Positive Polarity). These sensors will generally NOT be compatible with a number of
OEM style brushless fans with negative polarity, unless you use a device that can modify or invert the polarity,
such as these devices HERE.
Lingenfelter VSFM-002 Variable Speed Brushless Fan & Pump Temperature & Speed Controller
Lingenfelter offers a programmable controller:
https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L460320002.html.
They have a detailed PDF user manual at: https://www.lingenfelter.com/PDFdownloads/L460320002.pdf.
Size of this controller is 3.6 x 4.3 inches. The below diagram was found in their user guide.
This
controller appears to be quite versatile in that a large number of difference
OEM and aftermarket temperature sensors can be used with it. It can be made
to control a wide variety of brushless fans from a number of different
manufacturers, including OEM fans from Spal or Bosch or most other makers.
It offers the option of an override or FULL-SPEED switch. If you need an
AC override, it will trigger a fan to run at FULL-SPEED when the AC is
activated.
The only draw-back I see for this controller is that the AC override DOES NOT OFFER an ability
to select any speed other than FULL-SPEED. If I'm
using a super high-output fan, I prefer to not have it run at FULL-SPEED
unless necessary. It might not be necessary to use a big, powerful fan
at FULL-SPEED when using AC. Having an option for something less extreme for the AC, such as 50% speed, would be nice.
The below video was made by a shop who does custom engine installations in Jeeps. They show a
special version of the Lingenfelter controller, which appears to have been created by Lingenfelter for them with a
custom feature, which offers an optional fan AC override to operate at
30% when activated. This shop does not offer this controller in their web store, so I don't
know if it's available. If available, the only draw-back would be this change appears to eliminate the FULL-SPEED override toggle switch as an option if you prefer to keep that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4tlqvVu_Vg
I have emailed Lingenfelter a couple times to ask a few questions and they don't respond.
Widget Man Universal Brushless Fan Controller (and other devices).
When
I first saw this item on eBay I was skeptical, mostly because the
price was low. After
reading more about it, and after thoroughly reading the extensive
instructions, I thought it was worth a try to see what it could do.
So I bought one.
One
feature that helped my decision was an optional (Force-On) feature which can be selected for
50% fan override when the AC is activated.
I've mentioned previously how such a feature was missing from other brushless fan
controllers.
This is an optional setting where you can trigger either a FULL-SPEED override or a 50% override.
If the 50% override is triggered (such as for the AC "ON" circuit),
the fan will run 50% higher than the current speed setting. So for
example, this means if the fan speed is "OFF" (engine not warm
yet), then the 50% override will run the fan at 50%. If the
fan is running at 20%, then the 50% override increases it to 70%. Nice feature.
Also the seller was VERY RESPONSIVE to emails and he's
been offering great suggestions. This has been very refreshing to
someone like me who was still in a steep learning mode when it came to brushless
fans and I certainly had some questions.
This item (Universal PWM Fan or Pump Controller) can be found at:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143561612623
Other devices can be found at https://www.ebay.com/str/gkgoodcheapparts
.
This controller is typically referred as an "FPM" in the Widget Man literature (maybe refers to "Fan Pump Module?").
In addition to the above controller, I purchased
a temperature sensor and an
adjustable power supply.
This sensor is not necessary. You can use almost any factory or aftermarket sensor with the above controller, but I thought I might want to try this too. In the end I did not use it.
This Widget Man RTD Temperature
Sensor above is basically a universal sensor, which can be used instead of using a temp sensor you might already have in your car:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143563314206.
I bought it to learn how it works, in case it becomes a good option for
this project or maybe this info will help someone else who sees this. In the end I didn't use this sensor. If
you're curious,
an RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) is a passive device in
which the resistance output changes as temperature changes. The
resistance vs
temperature relationship is reliable and repeatable. This sensor
requires power. That power should be a consistent voltage if
possible. If your charging system voltage at the battery moves around
with load changes (more than a few tenth of a volt), a sensor like this
would benefit from a regulated power supply. The below device could be
considered.
Widget Man says this sensor can be placed anywhere, but
they recommend the placement to be near an existing ECT sensor or
near a thermostat housing.
Alternately, you
can use many other sensors with the controller. I ultimately decided to use the VDO Volvo temp
gauge sender in the cylinder head of my 240, which is shown a bit further below.
Adjustable Power Supply
This Widget Man adjustable power supply above is an optional item
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143083402375. It's not needed for the fan controller, unless you think you need one.
I DID use one of these as you'll see.
One optional use could be to provide a stabilized voltage level for the above sensor if you use that one.
This power supply is typically referred as a "CTAS" in Widget Man
literature. It can also be used to provide a stabilized voltage level
for the fan
controller input, or for any 12v device (consuming under 1 amp). It's
output is adjustable from 1.25 to 12.55 volts. A
stabilized voltage level may not be needed for every car, but if you
find that your car system voltage can fluctuate more than a few tenths
of a
volt
when the alternator is under load, then it can make sense to provide an even 12 volts to
these devices for better accuracy or consistency.
I used this power supply to provide a stable 12 volts to the fan controller. This way the controller would not experience any voltage fluctuations, which is a pretty common normal thing in an old Volvo.
A good example of using this power supply for something different is
how I tried one out for a 240 gauge cluster to replace a failed 10v regulator. The
240 gauge cluster has a small 10v regulator, which provides regulated
10v power to the temp and fuel gauges. That original regulator was not
working as it should. This power supply fixed that perfectly.
More on that is HERE in my Gauge Electrical Page.
Here's a diagram below I made showing the use of these Widget Man devices
for a brushless fan. Plus I added an alternate use of the VDO Volvo 240 temperature sender, since I think that turned out to be a better choice for my Volvo than the Widget Man universal sensor.
Volvo Coolant Temp Sender
Side Note about Bad Used Volvo Senders:
My car uses this VDO Volvo sender above (Volvo PN 460191). I had
two used ones in my parts bin, which I was pretty
sure worked when I got them years ago. I tested them with an Ohm meter,
but I couldn't get any readings. It was like the sensors weren't
connected inside. I questioned my Ohm meter until tried a different
meter. Then I
ordered a new sender and it worked fine (above right photo).
The below may seem unnecessary. It was done to find out the voltage values between the 240 temp gauge and the temp sender.
This test was done on a bench with the sender immersed in hot water.
These values were used to decide if I should use a 5v or 12v sensor
input setting on the Widget Man fan controller (dip-switch 6). The 5v
setting is best because it has higher resolution, but if the fan TURN-ON
point and FULL-SPEED point that I would be choosing were found to be over 5v, then the 12v
setting needs to be used. In this case below, all values are over 5v, so the 12v setting is
appropriate.
1984 Volvo 240 cluster temp gauge to sender voltage. Voltage readings taken at the sender output.
Sender is a new VDO Volvo 460191. Input voltage to the cluster was 12.8v.
|
SENDER TEMP °F
|
VOLTAGE
|
|
77.3
|
10.00
|
Room temperature
|
90
|
9.16
|
|
100
|
9.00
|
|
110
|
8.82
|
|
120
|
8.57
|
|
130
|
8.32
|
|
140
|
8.08
|
|
150
|
7.69
|
|
160
|
7.31
|
1/4 needle at 160-165 F
|
170
|
6.86
|
|
180
|
6.59
|
1/2 needle at 185 F
|
190
|
6.32
|
|
200
|
5.90
|
|
210
|
5.63
|
almost 3/4 needle
|
| NOTE:
This gauge cluster was first equipped with a Widget Man adjustable power supply,
which was
set to 10v to regulate and stabilize voltage to the temp gauge. This
replaced the factory voltage regulator in the cluster, which I found to
be not working or regulating voltage correctly.
More on that project is HERE in my Gauge Electrical Page |
Here are some OTHER devices from Widget Man
which might come in handy for brushless fan conversions.
This PWM Frequency / Polarity Changer
may be useful for getting a 10Hz positive (Jeep or Mercedes) fan to
work with the 100Hz negative PWM frequency from a GM LS
ECM. This devise lets you arbitrarily multiply or divide the Hertz rate and invert the polarity if needed.
The only thing it won't do is adjust the off, turn-on, and max speed
thresholds. Those need to be compatible between the fan and controller. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143638043684.
This Sine-to-Square Digital Signal Converter
(SQC2) is an inexpensive assembly of transistors, which can invert the polarity or shift voltage levels on an existing PWM signal.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143103138738.
INSTALLATION:
Widget Man devices are sealed or potted, except for the dip switches
on the fan controller. Those switches can be vulnerable to moisture, which
could disable the controller. If the fan controller is to be placed in
an engine bay, Widget Man recommends that the dip switches be sealed
with RTV after the setup is complete. I didn't want to put sealer on
the switches and I felt it would be a better idea to further protect these
devices by putting them in an enclosure. The fan controller and
voltage regulator are attached to the bottom of this box with some double-sided
tape.
 
This box is advertised as "waterproof." The top comes with a silicone gasket in a recessed channel, so it
should do pretty well. Widget Man suggested that I
smear some dielectric grease on the dip switches after installation to add a
little extra protection. These devices are rated
for 225° F. It's best to place it
in less hot area in the engine bay, never near a hot exhaust or turbo.
This controller produces very little heat on its own, so internal
heating will not be an issue inside a box. Amazon sells this box
and has it in a number of different sizes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S6PKW2L
The cable exit uses an inexpensive plastic gland nut that required a
7/16 inch drilled hole. I used the smallest size in this assortment: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJ03AUQ
|
During
installation and PROGRAMMING of this in the car I decided to write down the steps I took for my
own future reference. I'm adding it here for anyone doing a similar installation using the same controller.
1.
Controller was wired according to instructions and the Force-On terminal
was GROUNDED. Dip switch 7 set to ON (left) for a fan test.
2.
Engine was started and idling. LED began flashing fast Yellow and fan slowly
ramped up to full speed. This is a good test to confirm the fan was working so far.
3. Moved Dip Switch 7 to OFF (right). Next steps will involve temp learning.
4.
While waiting for the engine to warm, I held down the GREEN button until
the LED began SLOW flashing RED (low-temp learning mode).
5.
While monitoring the engine temp using an IR temp reader on the top radiator hose near the thermostat, I waited for my
desired low-temp set point (about 175°F). Also I chose this set point because the temp gauge was just below the middle.
6. Then I quickly pressed the GREEN button. LED changed to solid YELLOW. The low-temp set point had been set.
7. As
engine continued to warm, I held down the RED button until LED began FAST flashing RED (high-temp learning mode).
8. I monitored
engine the temp again and when it reached a desired high temp point (about
200° F), I quickly pressed the RED button. LED
changed to solid GREEN. High-temp set point had been set. The fan began working immediately and
it began to bring the engine temp down to normal.
After
watching the fan and dash gauge in action for a while, I decided I wanted to re-adjust
the low-temp set point to a slightly lower setting.
1. I moved Dip
Switch 7 to ON (left). This allowed the fan to slowly ramp up to high speed and it began to
bring the temp down to a point below my original low-temp set point.
2.
I monitored engine temp and after the gauge showed the temp below my new low-temp set
point, I moved Dip Switch 7 back to OFF (right). Fan turned off and engine temp began rising.
3. As
I waited for the engine to warm again, I held down the GREEN button
until the LED began SLOW flashing RED (low-temp learning mode).
4. I
waited for my new desired low-temp set point and then quickly pressed
the GREEN button. The LED changed to solid GREEN. The low-temp set point had been re-set and the learn settings were complete. |
AC Activation Signal Notes
In reference to the AC compressor circuit being connected to the Force-On pin in the controller, I thought this deserved a good explanation
just in case you were curious.
The Force-On circuit is activated when
12V is present or when an open circuit is present. It’s deactivated when
a ground is present. So for this controller to work as I wanted, I
needed 12V when AC is ON and a GROUND when AC is OFF. The AC clutch
circuit will provide such a ground when it’s off, so this circuit will
totally work for the Force-On. This is why: The coil winding in an AC clutch
offers about 3~12 ohms resistance when off. This low resistance translates to
enough continuity to be called a GROUND when the power is OFF. It would not be enough of a ground for a power device, but for
digital signaling purposes that's sufficient for a ground.
 
Here's a couple pics showing the new controller in it's enclosure and mounted.
Experimental Methods Used to Test Brushless Fans
Keep in mind that most fan manufacturers are rating their advertised CFM tests to reflect a fan that is
attached to a radiator, which in theory, restricts and reduces airflow by some amount. How is that simulated? Can there be any consistency? Who knows?
This is what I've been
using to test these fans. If you use something else and you want to
share that info, feel free to email me: CONTACT
Most brushless fans cannot simply be connected to a battery to make them
run for testing. This PWM signal generator below may be used to activate
and run a brushless fan at any speed.
There are FOUR connections.
The left two wires are the battery power and chassis ground.
The PWM wire on the fan is connected to the PWM
slot shown above on the right. The extra GND wire next to the PWM wire
can
be
grounded also, but in most cases it doesn't need to be. It's a ground
specifically for the PWM signal. So if you have this signal
generator connected to the same battery as the fan, then the extra
ground is not needed. In some lab settings, the power and ground for a
brushless motor may be different than the the power/ground for this
device. In those cases the extra PWM ground would be needed.
If you have a fan which you're unsure of the frequency needed, brushless
fans will usually be OK if you need to experiment with different
frequencies.
PWM Signal Generator. Price: $14.00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P848DYQ
Fan speed (RPM)
testing was done using an inexpensive hobby optical tachometer above:
Turnigy Micro Tachometer. This meter can be set to measure 2 to 9 blade
fans. It was priced under $20.00.
Amperage usage was measured using this Digital 0 to 100 Amp meter. Price: $15.00.
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Digital-Multimeter-6-5-100V-Amperage/dp/B017BCXQO6/ref=sr_1_3
My CFM airflow testing was done using an Aiomest AN-846A anemometer. Price: $69.00
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088QZ3689
This is the same airflow meter used by Fast Monty's Garage in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYkuNP1RnoM&t=26s. The same fan area calculation methods were used.
If you watch Fast Monty's video, you'll probably have to pause and
re-watch this math calculations a few times. It's a but much for a
normal human. So I've placed the easier calculation steps I used below.
CFM Meter Calculation:
Begin with the (actual) fan diameter: 18 inches, for example.
1/2 of that is the radius: 9 inches.
9 ÷ 12 = 0.75.
0.75² (or 0.75 x 0.75) = 0.5625.
0.5625 x 3.14159 (Pi) = 1.767.
1.767 is the sq.ft. area of an 18 inch fan.
Now we must calculate the center hub area.
I used 7.4 inches for the Jeep fan.
1/2 of 7.4 = 3.7 (radius).
3.7 ÷ 12 = 0.308.
0.308² (or 0.308 x 0.308) = 0.0948.
0.0948 x 3.14159 (Pi) = 0.2978.
0.2978 is the sq.ft. area of the center hub.
Now deduct the hub area from the fan area.
1.767 - 0.2978 = 1.469 (sq.ft.). 1.469 is the final result of the fan area.
So now you can set the meter on 'CFM' and enter your calculation. I entered the rounded number of 1.47 below for the FT
² setting.
If you have any questions, comments or find any potential errors, please send me an email:
CONTACT.
|
