Rear End Options |
UPDATED: January 15, 2024 CONTACT |
D O
M A I N S |
|||
|
||||
G80 in a 240 |
G80 Mods |
Diff VSS Sensors |
Other Misc Rear End Stuff |
240 Trans, Rear End Ratios for USA and Canada Info taken from Volvo "New Car Features" Greenbooks and Owner's Manuals. Some anomalies are certainly possible.. |
|||
YEAR |
Specification |
Auto Trans |
Manual Trans |
1975 |
B20F D-Jet (242, 244) |
4.10 BW35 |
4.10 M40, M41 |
1975 |
B20F D-Jet (245) |
4.30 BW35 |
4.30 M40, M41 |
1976 |
B21F K-Jet |
3.91 BW55 |
3.91 with M45 |
1976 |
B21F K-Jet |
3.91 BW55 |
4.10 with M46 |
1976 |
B21F K-Jet California |
4.10 BW55 |
4.10 M45, M46 |
1977 |
B21F K-Jet |
3.91 AW55, BW55 |
3.91 M45, M46 |
1978 |
B21F K-Jet |
3.91 AW55 (245 BW55) |
3.91 M45, M46 |
1978 |
B21A Carb Canada |
3.91 BW55 |
3.91 M45, M46 |
1979 |
B21F K-Jet |
3.73 AW55 |
3.91 M45, M46 |
1979 |
B21A Carb Canada |
3.73 BW55 |
3.91 M45, M46 |
1980 |
B21F K-Jet |
3.73 AW55 (245 BW55) |
3.91 M45, M46 |
1980 |
B21A Carb Canada |
3.73 BW55 |
3.91 M45, M46 |
1981 |
B21F K-Jet |
3.73 AW55 (245 BW55) |
3.73 M45, M46 |
1981 |
B21F-MPG K-Jet |
3.54 AW55 |
3.54 M46 |
1981 |
B21A Carb, B23E Canada |
3.73 BW55 |
3.91 M45, M46 |
1981 |
B23E K-Jet Canada |
3.54 BW55 |
3.73 M45, M46 |
1981 |
B21F GLT |
N/A |
3.91 M46 |
1981 |
B21FT Turbo |
N/A |
3.73 M46 |
1981 |
D24 Diesel |
3.31 BW55 |
3.54 M46 |
1981 |
D24 Diesel Canada |
3.54 BW55 |
3.73 M46 |
1982 |
B21A Carb Canada |
3.54 BW55 | 3.54 M45, M46 |
1982 |
B23E K-Jet Canada |
3.54 BW55 |
3.73 M46 |
1982 |
B21F K-Jet or LH EFI |
3.91 AW70 |
3.54 M46 |
1982 |
B21FT Turbo |
3.73 AW71 |
3.73 M46 |
1982 |
D24 Diesel |
3.31 BW55 |
3.54 M46 |
1983 |
B21A Carb Canada |
3.54 BW55 | 3.54 M46 |
1983 |
B23E K-Jet Canada |
3.54 BW55 |
3.73 M46 |
1983 |
B21FT Turbo |
3.91 AW71 |
3.73 M46 |
1983 |
B23F-LH |
3.73 AW70 |
3.31 M46 |
1983 |
D24 Diesel |
3.31 BW55 |
3.54 M46 |
1984 |
B21FT Turbo |
3.91 AW71 |
3.73 M46 |
1984 |
B23F-LH |
3.73 AW70 |
3.31 M46 |
1984 |
D24 Diesel |
3.31 BW55 |
3.54 M46 |
1985 |
B230F LH 2.2 |
3.73 AW70 |
3.31 M46 |
1985 |
B21FT Turbo |
3.91 AW71 |
3.73 M46 |
1985 |
D24 Diesel |
3.31 BW55 |
3.54 M46 |
1986 |
B230F LH 2.2 |
3.73 AW70 |
3.31 M46 |
1987 |
B230F LH 2.2 |
3.73 AW70 |
3.31 M47 |
1988 |
B230F LH 2.2 |
3.73 AW70 |
3.31 M47 |
1989 |
B230F LH 2.4 |
3.73 AW70 |
3.31 M47 |
1990 |
B230F LH 2.4 |
3.73 AW70 |
3.31 M47 |
1991 |
B230F LH 2.4 |
3.73 AW70 |
3.31 M47 |
1992 |
B230F LH 2.4 |
3.73 AW70 |
3.31 M47 |
1993 |
B230F LH 2.4 |
3.73 AW70 |
3.31 M47 |
Installing
a
G80 Locking Differential (pulled from a 700 / 900 series) into your 240 |
Here are some videos from Eaton explaining how this
differential works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTGZOJQQBeE |
||||||
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftyJvIO0DZ8 | ||||||
|
||||||
|
||||||
|
||||||
If you intend to install a used G80 differential in a 240, it's a direct (or
nearly a direct) bolt-in to any 240 Dana 30 rear end (1030, 1031 and
1041). In most cases, the G80 differential will bolt in and run just fine with no adjustments, even without replacement of any bearings or shims. You MUST remove and reuse your own ring gear, which matches your existing pinion gear, unless you plan to change both of those. Always install those two gears as a matched set. If you're concerned about installing a used G80 diff "AS IS," you can take an extra step by also checking the ring gear backlash after installing. This is done using a dial caliper. Backlash is the amount of rotational movement (back and forth) of the ring gear when the pinion gear is stationary. The Volvo specification calls for around .005 to .007 inch (5 to 7 thousands of an inch) of backlash. There are how-to videos on YouTube for checking ring gear backlash on a rear end. If the backlash is out of spec, the rear end may whine at some speeds or there may be some unusual wear over time. CORRECTING EXCESSIVE BACKLASH: There are shims under the carrier bearings, which can be added or removed. This will adjust the ring gear closer to the pinion gear (which will reduce backlash) or farther from the pinion gear (to increase backlash). Removing bearings and changing shims will of course increase the difficulty of this installation, because these bearings are pressed on. It can be difficult to remove these bearings without damaging them and some will tell you the quickest removal is cutting them off. I don't think that is necessary. REMOVING A VOLVO CARRIER BEARING WITH A BEARING PULLER (Carrier Bearing: AKA Differential Side Bearing) So far I have avoided having to deal with removing or replacing any carrier bearings on two different G80 installations in my 240s. In each case I have simply installed the G80 in my car with the bearings and races that came with the G80 from the donor car. I have not removed the bearings from a donor G80 yet. If you find yourself needing to change, pull or adjust bearings, here's a little info below that may help. | ||||||
Reportedly, if you have the correct VOLVO BEARING PULLER TOOL (shown here), then pulling these bearings can allegedly be done without damaging them. Without this tool, it is reportedly more difficult to remove these bearings without damage. If you damage them, this means you'll need new bearings. More information: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=317970&page=2 |
||||||
<<< I have not personally experienced this MATCO puller tool, but it looks pretty good in the below videos:
Have a look at this video showing a carrier bearing puller made by Matco (Part Number MST4520), which appears to be doing very well on a carrier bearing:
And here's the OTC version (PN 4520), which looks identical to the Matco:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eh8WF_ON6g |
||||||
|
||||||
G80 DIY BOLT-IN INSTALLATION NOTES There are some people who will tell you that the only "correct" way is to fit the differential just as you would a brand new differential replacement, using new bearings, shims and a professional technician. This, of course, can be VERY expensive and if it's too expensive to try a G80, then there's just no point. The choice is yours, however many DIY "junkyard" mechanics (myself included) have already done this successfully as (*nearly) a simple bolt-in. *Regarding the "nearly" a bolt-in thing: The one exception I have found is for 1991 and older 240s. See the info below on trimming the right side axle. |
||||||
See that round silver metal disc below? I've seen this plate referred as an "oil slinger" or a "crown wheel screw lock plate" (supposedly to prevent ring bolts from loosening on limited slip differentials). You'll almost never see this plate in a photo of a removed G80 or a retrofitted one, because they're almost never re-used. That plate is found on all Volvo G80 differentials that were originally installed in Volvos. This plate covers the ring gear bolts. It will prevent you from removing the ring gear bolts unless the bearing on that side is removed. If you don't plan to remove this bearing and you need that plate gone, you can simply cut the plate off with tin snips and toss it. This is the method used most often. This way you can swap your ring gear without having to mess with pulling and installing new bearings. (Photo above borrowed from G80 modification article: https://www.turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0027) Here's a YouTube video of someone pulling a G80 from a Volvo at a salvage yard and you can see this disc on that differential: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwQh9mMtmvE SALVAGE YARD NOTE: If
you remove a G80 from a salvage yard car yourself, make sure you save the bearing races and mark
them RIGHT and LEFT with a marker so they end up on the same side as
they were installed originally.
|
||||||
BUYING A USED G80
If you're shopping for a used G80, keep in mind that this differential was used in a lot of different cars and trucks. Some have different axle spline counts. The G80 used in Volvo cars was installed in a Dana 30 (1041 axle) with 27 spline axles. All such G80 differentials from a Volvo it will have "VOLVO" and a Volvo part number stamped into it as shown above. The part numbers seem to be pretty various and seem to have changed a number of times over the years.
|
||||||
|
||||||
TRIMMING THE 240 RIGHT SIDE AXLE:
This is the part of a G80 installation that makes the difference between nearly a bolt-in or a 100% bolt-in. If your rear end is from a 1991 or older 240, you will need to trim a small amount off of the inner end of the RIGHT side axle. This is because the right axle in that 240 is a bit too long to fit all the way back in with the G80 in place. The amount that needs to be trimmed is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. In these photos you can see where I trimmed 1/4 inch off of my right axle. A high-speed cut-off wheel took care of this easily in a few minutes. LATER 240 AXLE CHANGE: Sometime in 1992 the 240 axle was changed so that the right side axle was made slightly shorter from the factory. This means that some 1992 and ALL 1993 240 models will not need any axle trimming and this installation will be a 100% bolt-in for these late 240s. |
||||||
|
||||||
|
||||||
SENSORS and TONE RINGS All related to 240s with Electronic Speedometers (1986-93). |
||||||
1986 and later 240s came with electronic speedometers which were triggered by a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) in the rear differential cover. There were two types of VSS: Non-ABS or ABS type. 1986-1992 240 without ABS (below left). 1991-92 240 with optional ABS (below right). 1993 240, ABS was standard (below right). |
||||||
TONE RINGS If your G80 came with a 48 tooth tone ring (standard for all ABS equipped Volvos) and your electronic speedo 240 uses a 12 tooth tone ring (standard for NON-ABS 240s), your speedometer will not work correctly. Some DIY installers have successfully modified the 48 tooth tone ring using a Dremel cut-off wheel to created a 12 tooth ring. Keep in mind that you should then probably use the sensor that works for the 12 tooth ring. And if you installed a newer aluminum differential cover from a later car, the earlier sensor might have fitment issues. For such a custom installation, some sensors may be adjustable for depth and some may need shims added or subtracted to adjust depth.
Check your clearance with a feeler gauge through the
filler hole. Turn the pinion as you do so to check
clearance. Start with a thin gauge and go thicker until you can feel the rotating tone ring.
(Source: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=204882) |
||||||
|
||||||
|
||||||
G80 INTERNAL MODIFICATIONS:
Modifying the G80 is optional. It has been a fairly popular fad among Volvo hot-rodders. A modification is done to the
G80 before installing to alter the internal locking mechanism. Altering the internal mechanism can be
done to make it stay locked through higher speeds or to even stay locked at all
speeds. But at least one person says, "Even an unmodified G80
will stay locked at much higher speeds than 25 as
long as the power is increased. I've had stock units
stay locked up until at least 60 mph in turbo cars." (Source: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=240436&page=2
Post #78).
I agree 100% with this statement and it's what I have found with my unmodified G80. |
||||||
If you decide you want to modify your G80, this can be
done by a couple different methods and these are
outlined in the article
links below. Not all of the methods are the
same, so if this part interests you, read it all.
You can begin by reading this modification tutorial in Turbobricks: https://www.turbobricks.com/mods.php?content=art0027 More resources below. |
||||||
Below Video:
Disassembling and Modifying a G80 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXgTWLP_e-I |
||||||
MORE HELPFUL ARTICLES
AND DISCUSSION LINKS: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=338768 https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=321262 https://forums.turbobricks.org/showthread.php?p=5136009 http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/150384/volvo-series-locker-diffs-eaton http://www.autoevolution.com/news/a-simple-guide-to-the-g80-locking-differential-94874.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xevx06aay7E https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=321262 |
OTHER REAR END STUFF. |
Limited Slip Info for Volvo Rear Ends. This info BELOW was compiled years ago, so some may be out of date. I have left it up at the request of users for the sake of the info it contains. I hope it helps. |
Cutting through all
the myths about just what 240's and 740's came
with what type of rear end and what Limited Slip
or Locker differentials will actually fit these
cars has been a long struggle. The following
information below has been submitted and compiled by
various experienced Volvonuts over the years and
will hopefully help you in making the right
decisions.
|
||
Dana 30 rear end versions for 240. Visual differences between a Volvo 1030 and 1031 Differential Case. The stronger 1031 was introduced in 1981 and originally reserved for 200 series with higher power output, such as 6 cylinder or turbo cars. Eventually all later production 240s would get the 1031. There is information in Volvo "New Car Feature" Greenbooks that claim the 1030 came in auto trans 240s (including TURBOS) and most manual trans cars were the cars equipped with the 1031. This information has been proven unreliable, since it appears most or all 240 Turbos with auto and manual transmissions received the 1031. According to info in Anthony Hyde's page, late 240s from approximately 1990 to 1993 all received the 1031 rear end, however the later case may have a single rib, adding to confusion. Tuff240's comment below suggests that 1986 and later 240s with electric speedometers may all have the 1031 rear end. Internally, a 1031 will have slightly larger, heavier ring and pinion gears and the pinion shaft is larger in diameter. A 1030 rear end holds 1.4 U.S. quarts of oil. A 1031 rear end hold 1.7 U.S. quarts. Above photos and more Dana 30 detail at Anthony Hyde's Volvo Differential Page |
||
COMMENT
12/08/02:
Stealthfti from the Turbobricks Forum wrote: There are measurable differences between a 1030 and 1031 rear end housing. A 1030 is about 10.125 inches from the rear cover mounting surface to the front of the pinion neck. A 1031 is almost exactly 0.5 inches longer. COMMENT 04/08/02: Also it does seem all
1031s have the "ears" on the right side of the pumpkin
(they are not machined on 240s). These ears
attach to the torque arm on the 740 suspension.
Justin's source for the info on the "ears" and the
1031 axle is Mike Knell, who authored the Volvo V8
swap information in JagsThatRun.
From
reading posts on 4x4 chat groups, the Trutrac sounds
like a great LSD, especially for street
performance. The Dana Powr-Loc (which appears to be
the LSD Volvo offered for standard towing packages)
is also supposed to be a good, long-lasting
differential (although quite expensive when new).
|
||
|
UPDATE NOTE
02/12/04: UPDATE NOTE 07/16/06: UPDATE NOTE: (JUNE 2007) -from Mike Perry (mikep at Turbobricks) Trutrac Installation notes for differentials using Speedo Tone Rings: For the first tone ring car I installed a Trutrac diff into, I welded a speedo tone ring onto the diff. It was a big pain. I had to cut the ring apart and weld it to the carrier, then grind down the welds, which were brittle from conduction hardening, so I had to braze the cracks. Then I did a Trutrac install for Michael Towery. I cut grooves with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. It was so easy and worked so well that I only do it that way now. The grooves need not be wide. The count just has to be the same. I think it's 12 grooves for the speedo. I'm not sure of the count for ABS. You can adjust the clearance by sliding the cover up or down, or by using a press in extreme cases. I have done probably 8 of the Trutracs in total, and the ones for 3.73 gears also work for 3.31 in most cases. The PN 912A411 in the first pic is in a 3.73 geared 1031 axle (my son's car) and the PN 912A588 is in a 3.31 geared 1031 axle. I also set up a few plate diffs and some locked (welded) for Rob's drift car. Maybe 12 Volvo axles total, not counting repair jobs. Regarding differential part numbers... the Jeep front diff ("low preload", actually with a different hypoid angle) is a PN 912A314. I have done plenty of these, but they slip in turns with a big rear sway. The old number for a Volvo rear with "high preload" is PN 912A411. I have done two of these. The new number is PN 912A588... better case material, high preload. I have done one. It is the number for high gear ratio numbers, but I think it went in a low number car. One more bit of info: The diff manufacturers list a split in ratios at 3.51 or something, however I have never found a difference. I have measured diffs from Jeeps and Volvos with 3.31, 3.55, 3.90, and 4.11 ratios, and ALL were interchangeable. I recently put the new Trutrac PN 912A588 diff in a car with 3.73 gears, and have already put one in a car with 3.31 gears. |
UPDATE NOTE APRIL 2008: Jonas Borgegård of Sweden jonasbakaxel@gmail.com wrote: I have my own company in
Sweden www.bakaxel.se and
I sell mostly parts for Volvo. I
sell rear axels and rebuilt BMW/ZF
gearboxes to fit in Volvos and other parts.
If you wants ABS you can take the ring from the old differential and "move" it over to the Trutrac (PN912A588). You need to put it in an machine to take away some steel to be able to get it "on" and move out the pickup for the speedometer 2-3 mm. I have also made a CAD file and made a water cut metal "plate" that I wrapped around the Trutrac and then welded it together. |
Here's a discussion thread on
installing a Truetrac in a Volvo 1031 rear end: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=189043 |