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     UPDATED: November 25, 2021                       CONTACT       
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Chrome Prancing Moose Emblem

Chrome Slanted Body Emblems

 3D Swedish Flag Domed Emblem

Prancing Moose Edition Die Cuts
Made by Sweden Chrome Emblem

  New items added: USED PARTS PAGE

Chrome Prancing Moose Edition

 Why is a 240 special?
If you read the TEXT in this ad you'll realize the intercooler description is technically INCORRECT.  I guess ad writers and engineers didn't talk to each other much.  We still love the 240.
I've been a fan of 240s since before I ever owned my first one in 1990. The TURBOS were too expensive for me when they were new, so I had to buy one of those later.

If you have an affection for the 240 or wonder why so many people do, read Chris Driver's blog linked below.
I think you'll share a similar opinion.


And here's a good video: Why the Volvo 240 is Actually a Good Enthusiast Car + Walkthrough and Drive

240 VIN Decoding Page

240 SPECS:
The below image (reproduced from the 1983 US and Canada brochure below) shows the specifications for 1983 240 models.

240 Model Sales Brochure 1983

240 Accessory Brochure

I'm a Volvo 240 hobbyist.  I've been playing with Volvos (mostly 240s) since 1988.  My pages here are an attempt to share my experiences with other Volvo hobbyists and to chronicle the knowledge and information I have gathered over the years so it may be passed on to others.
I've owned 10 Volvos since 1988.  So I thought I'd list some of them below....

My second Volvo (but first 240). A white 1983 244 DL.  I bought it in 1990. 
A non-sunroof 240 DL. Roll-up windows, auto trans, marginal AC, ok gas mileage.  It was exceptionally clean with only 50k miles when I found it in Huntington Beach, CA. Cost me $5,000.  Already being an avid iPd
customer, it soon got their anti-sway bars, sport springs and Bilstein HD shocks, as well and a few other fun goodies.  I bought the back half of a 240 Turbo exhaust and installed it from the cat-back. That was a really nice improvement. 

It originally came with 14 inch steels wheels with beauty rings and hubcaps.  I installed the newer 15 inch alloy wheels from my '88 760.  I drove this car everywhere for 6
years and put over 100,000 miles on it.  In 1996 I gave it to my daughter when she got her drivers license.  Unfortunately it was destroyed a few months later when some nit-wit pulled out directly in front of her in a Chevy Caprice. She couldn't avoid the Caprice and hit it broadside at over 50 mph. 
More info HERE (continued).

Here's my CURRENT Volvo as it looked when I bought it back in 2003.
I bought this 1984 242 Turbo from the 3rd owner, who had bought it 6 months earlier in 2002 from Owner #2. The original paint and leather interior was in rare exceptional condition because the car was always garaged.
It's very important for an old car like this to live indoors if you want it to stay nice for this many years.  This car was a rare
find and it' still a nice car to drive

  This 242 came with iPd TME sport springs and iPd 25mm anti-sway bars when I bought it. I actually helped the previous owner install those a few months before he sold the car to me.
Otherwise nearly everything was original.

 This car was all very original and stock when I got it. This is an under-hood shot taken at the 2003 Annual Westside Volvo Show at Westside Volvo in Culver City, California. 

 I resisted the urge to modify this car for a few years, but slowly that urge began to win. So it has undergone a few changes over the years.
This car originally came with the AW71 automatic transmission. I have always preferred manual transmissions in cars like this, but a prime 240 Turbo with a manual transmission was not easy to find. A few years later the auto transmission totally failed more than 100 miles from home (during a road-trip to the annual Davis Volvo Show in Calif.).  I called for a flatbed tow (having a premier AAA account was a great decision) and the car was sent back home while I hitched a ride in friend's Volvo who was also on his way to Davis.  That transmission failure finally soured me on automatic transmissions, so I swore them off and replaced it with an M46 4-speed plus overdrive transmission (photo below).

Considering my 1984 240 Turbo originally had an automatic transmission, the rear end ratio it originally came with was 3.91:1.
If this had been a manual transmission car, the rear end would have been 3.73:1. 
Rear end ratios were NOT consistent over the years, so I have begun compiling what I can find in Volvo documentation. You should consider your particular rear end ratio when planning for any transmission swaps.
240 Trans, Rear End Ratios for USA and Canada
Info taken from Volvo "New Car Features" Greenbooks and Owner's Manuals. Some anomalies are certainly possible..
Auto Trans
Manual Trans
B20F D-Jet (242, 244)
4.10 BW35
4.10 M40, M41
B20F D-Jet (245)
4.30 BW35
4.30 M40, M41
B21F K-Jet
3.91 BW55
3.91 with M45
B21F K-Jet
3.91 BW55
4.10 with M46
B21F K-Jet  California
4.10 BW55
4.10 M45, M46
B21F K-Jet
3.91 AW55, BW55
3.91 M45, M46
B21F K-Jet
3.91 AW55 (245 BW55)
3.91 M45, M46
B21A Carb  Canada
3.91 BW55
3.91 M45, M46
B21F K-Jet
3.73 AW55
3.91 M45, M46
B21A Carb  Canada
3.73 BW55
3.91 M45, M46
B21F K-Jet
3.73 AW55 (245 BW55)
3.91 M45, M46
B21A Carb Canada
3.73 BW55
3.91 M45, M46
B21F K-Jet
3.73 AW55 (245 BW55)
3.73 M45, M46
B21F-MPG K-Jet
3.54 AW55
3.54 M46
B21A Carb, B23E  Canada
3.73 BW55
3.91 M45, M46
B23E K-Jet  Canada
3.54 BW55
3.73 M45, M46
3.91 M46
B21FT Turbo
3.73 M46
D24 Diesel
3.31 BW55
3.54 M46
D24 Diesel  Canada
3.54 BW55
3.73 M46
B21A Carb  Canada
3.54 BW55 3.54 M45, M46
B23E K-Jet  Canada
3.54 BW55
3.73 M46
B21F K-Jet or LH EFI
3.91 AW70
3.54 M46
B21FT Turbo
3.73 AW71
3.73 M46
D24 Diesel
3.31 BW55
3.54 M46
B21A Carb Canada
3.54 BW55 3.54 M46
B23E K-Jet Canada
3.54 BW55
3.73 M46
B21FT Turbo
3.91 AW71
3.73 M46
3.73 AW70
3.31 M46
D24 Diesel
3.31 BW55
3.54 M46
B21FT Turbo
3.91 AW71
3.73 M46
3.73 AW70
3.31 M46
D24 Diesel
3.31 BW55
3.54 M46
B230F LH 2.2
3.73 AW70
3.31 M46
B21FT Turbo
3.91 AW71
3.73 M46
D24 Diesel
3.31 BW55
3.54 M46
B230F LH 2.2
3.73 AW70
3.31 M46
B230F LH 2.2
3.73 AW70
3.31 M47
B230F LH 2.2
3.73 AW70
3.31 M47
B230F LH 2.4
3.73 AW70
3.31 M47
B230F LH 2.4
3.73 AW70
3.31 M47
B230F LH 2.4
3.73 AW70
3.31 M47
B230F LH 2.4
3.73 AW70
3.31 M47
B230F LH 2.4
3.73 AW70
3.31 M47

Years later I would upgrade to the Ford T5Z transmission
mentioned further below.

The Eiker E1 wheels (17 x 7.5 Polaris replicas) seen in some of the photos here were imported from Finland in 2004. Back then the Eiker Wheel Company would not ship anything to U.S. customers, so a Finnish friend arranged for a relative of his to purchase and ship then from Finland.  It wasn't cheap, but I loved these wheels and at that time this was the only way to get them. Nearly no one else in the U.S. had them on their car.  Years later these wheels became much more popular and became available in the U.S. through a few importers. They started appearing on other 240s at a faster rate. These are 17 x 7.5 inches (offset ET 20 mm) and mine were fitted with 215/45-17 tires. These later became available in 18 x 7.5 inches also.

Back in 2004 I used the generic 62 mm plastic center caps that came with these Eiker wheels and I glued on a round Volvo logo cut off of a random Volvo cap.  I get questions all the time now from people with Eikers who have trouble finding an existing and available VOLVO cap that will fit. When you search, keep in mind that some discussions will pertain to original Polaris wheels, which seem to have a 57 mm center bore, and NOT the same size as an Eiker wheel, which reportedly has a 56 mm hole.  An original Polaris wheel used center cap Volvo PN 3529610 (no longer available). 

There's some info on-line that suggests VOLVO center cap PN 30638643 (pictured HERE) from a first generation S40 (2001-2004) will supposedly fit an Eiker wheel.  This does NOT appear to be correct according to some people I know who bought and tried them. The 30638643 is made for a 55 mm hole and is rather loose in an Eiker wheel.

If anyone knows FOR CERTAIN of an existing AVAILABLE cap that actually fits well in an Eiker, please let me know and I'll add that here.
I have some measurements of a few different common VOLVO center caps here:

Here are some discussions thread that will add to your confusion:

Later I decided to install a
Ford Motorsport World Class T5Z 5-speed transmission. 

I bought this transmission brand new from Summit Racing. It's pretty much the same as this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-trfo-30001/
The Ford T5 transmission was originally used for 1979 to 1993 Ford Mustangs. The input shaft on this model has 10 splines (1.0625" diameter). The output shaft has 28 splines. It has a 7 tooth speedometer drive gear suitable for a cable drive speedometer. 

Gear ratios:

First Gear:
Second Gear:
Third Gear:
Fourth Gear:
Fifth Gear:

The new T5 originally came with the 0.63 ratio 5th gear. I was ultimately not very happy with this ratio. Cruising in 5th gear with my B21FT felt like my car was lugging at highway speeds below 3000 rpm.
There were some other 5th gear ratios available for this transmission over the years. I was later to locate a 5th gear set that would convert my 0.63 OD to 0.73, which I then had installed by a transmission shop.

The 5th gear set is two gears in the transmission; one is a countershaft gear and one mainshaft gear. For the overdrive ratio to be correctly calculated, certain 5th gear sets must be chosen according to the existing FIRST gear ratio. My 1st gear was 2.95:1.
The original 0.63 5th meant it came with a 51 tooth countershaft gear and a 25 tooth mainshaft gear. The new 5th gear set to convert it to 0.73 consisted of a 55 tooth countershaft gear and a 31 tooth mainshaft gear. The table below will help you understand how these combinations work and how different 5th gear sets will turn out with different 1st gear ratios.
5th gear tooth count (countershaft/mainshaft)
2.95 first gear
0.8 OD
0.73 OD
0.63 OD
0.59 OD
3.35 first gear
0.92 OD
0.83 OD
0.72 OD
0.68 OD
The above overdrive table information was found in How to Rebuild and Modify Your Manual Transmission, by Robert Bowen, page 86.
It should be noted that T5 transmissions were made for both Ford cars and for GM cars. Both had optional 5th gear ratios as shown above. All Ford World Class (WC) T5s came with a 28 spline output shaft, while GM WCT5 transmissions had 27 spline output shafts. This is important, because the mainshaft gear used in a 5th gear conversion must have the same spline count as the output shaft. So a mainshaft gear for a GM transmission will not
fit in a Ford. 

I found the new 0.73 overdrive to be a much better ratio for a small Volvo engine with low static compression like my B21FT with 7.5:1 static compression ratio.
Rear differential 3.91:1, tire size 215/45-17 (about 24.6 inches tall)
60 mph
75 mph
90 mph
T5 0.63 5th
2000 rpm
2500 rpm
3000 rpm
T5 0.73 5th
2300 rpm
2850 rpm
3450 rpm
old M46 0.79 5th
2500 rpm
3125 rpm
3750 rpm

I have since changed to tire size: 225/45-17 (about 24.9 inches tall), which lowered the rpm at 75 mph slightly from 2850 to about 2800.

Over the years, many of the available T5 transmission parts that were easy to find have begun to vanish.  Searching now I cannot find any sources for the overdrive gear set I used for my conversion.  The only 5th gear sets that seem to be available now for a T5 with 2.95 first gear are the original 0.63 sets (mostly used gears) or the 0.80 "road race" or "Sebring" sets.

If you're looking for more info on fitting this transmission into a 240 or other Volvo, here are some good places to start looking:
Aaron Reed Baker's installation page: http://www.aaronreedbaker.com/t5swap.html
1800philes.com T5 installation 2007

 The T5 transmission can be installed with a one-piece or two-piece driveshaft.  For this installation I chose a two-piece.  It's the bottom one in this photo.  The top one is the stock 240 Turbo driveshaft.

A Hurst performance short-throw shifter was added when I installed the T5. This Hurst chromed shifter stick is detailed below.
My setup began with the original cable style clutch, but I later changed that to a hydraulic clutch setup after stretching and breaking a couple clutch cables.
More info about hydraulic clutch setups can be found in my
Hydraulic Clutch Page.


  I began with this chromed Hurst 8550 shifter stick.
The knob position was originally a little tall for my comfort, so I cut off about an inch off of the bottom.
The holes I'm using are shown in this photo of the modified shifter. I'm using the BOTTOM hole (which was originally the top hole) and the third hole from the bottom, which I drilled. The other holes are not being used.  The final shifter position is now perfect in my opinion. It's comfortable and and easy to reach any gear without any strain.

This is a rubber bushing from Hurst. PN 1140015.  It helps the flat shifter handle fit nicely in a round hole of the Volvo rubber shift boot.


I added some new taillights in 2007.  I've been asked where these taillights came from.  They started as ALL CLEAR taillights I found on eBay.  Then I bought some transparent red spray paint from the model section in a hobby store.
More detailed info on painting tail lamps can be for HERE.

That rear spoiler is a very rare Volvo 240 accessory made by Zender in the 1980's.

This may shock 240 purists  . . . .  I don't prefer the traditional humped  "coffin" hood that originally came on the U.S. 240 models.  Some people do.  I just don't.

So in 2010 this car received a flat hood and matching flat grill.

For those that don't know, that
flat hood used above is the same hood used for the 1983 242 Turbo "Flathood" model. This 242 Turbo model is outlined in the following pages.
It's also the same hood used on 1975-1977 U.S. 240 models and on 1978-1980 U.S. 242 DL and GT models.

  Early cars had some thin metal trim attached to the front leading edge of the hood to match thin metal trim around the turn signals (as shown below). One year (1976, shown below) had a single windshield washer squirter hole instead of two on other years.

The latch on the flat hood is unique. The latch release handle, latch pin and spring are all shorter. Also the hinge springs have less tension for a flat hood, because the hood is lighter, so get these parts if you find a salvage yard flat hood you want to buy.

ALSO the flat hood described above is the same hood used on European 240 Turbos (beginning in 1981), including those that were used in racing, like this one above.
The Euro 1981-85 version front end came with different headlights, fenders and turn signals as pictured here. These fenders are the same fenders that later appeared on U.S. versions for 1986-93.
A different grill was used in Europe.  And the slightly different sheet-metal directly below the grill and headlights (part #13 in below diagram) was used to accommodate those different Euro style parts. That #13 part below is the same part used later on U.S. 1986 and later cars.

The engine in my car is still the original B21FT, but a few added features have crept in over the years. 
The original K-Jet fuel injection served me well for years, but it has limits when you want more performance.
I'm using SDS EFI programma
ble fuel injection and programmable ignition. More info on my SDS EFI installation HERE.
SDS EFI is in Canada and they may be found at: http://www.sdsefi.com.
I installed a Mitsubishi TD04HL 15G turbo (which I pulled from an 850R Turbo in a salvage yard). The 15G is mounted on a later (1990+) exhaust manifold. A turbo like this is much more responsive on a small engine with low compression like the B21FT (which has a compression ratio of only 7.5:1).
The original Garrett T3 turbo was much slower to respond.
Adapting a Mitsubishi turbo is not overly difficult and there's good basic info here:

If you're interested in how my 3 inch exhaust system was made, I've created a 240 Exhaust Page with those details.

Later I decided to go old-school on the front grill and lights just for fun and I changed it to these round headlights from a pre-1981 242.
In November 2010 I took the 242 on a road trip to the annual Arizona Volvo Day in Tucson, Arizona.  It was awarded first place in the rear wheel drive class. 
I have photo albums from a large number of Volvo meets going back many years in my
Volvo Meet Photo Album page.

   I added these "GT style" driving lights in 2011. No, those are NOT standard 242 GT fog lights. Those are larger 100 watt off-road driving lights. They're larger than 242 GT fog lights, so to make room, I carefully enlarged the fog light buckets from a GT grill and fitted the larger off-road lamps. They light up the night like the sun!  That's very useful on long, dark roads.  

In 2012 I decided it was time for some different wheels
The Eikers had been used on this car for 8 years. They're very nice wheels and I still like them a lot, but when I originally bought them there were almost no other Volvos with them at Volvo merts.  After a few years, they became very popular and a lot of 240s had them, so I wanted a change to something else I wouldn't see on many other 240s at every Volvo meet I attended. And I have always loved the look of BBS style mesh wheels.

These wheels are NOT BBS, but they look nice. I found them on eBay. The size is 17 x 7.5, same size as the Eikers, but these have a BMW bolt pattern.
BMW pattern: 5 x 120 mm, with 72.56 mm hub center). These have a
35 mm offset.
I had some hub-centric billet adapters custom made by http://www.motorsport-tech.com.  More on the adapters below.

The tires shown here are 235/40-17 Goodyear Eagle F1.  If you fit a tire this wide on the rear of a lowered 240, you WILL absolutely be trimming or pounding some of the inner rear fender metal to make more room.  The back half of the rear arch will rub on a wide tire on bumps. If the car is lowered, it'll rub even more on bumps.  I have created an article in my 240 Mods Page on how I made clearance for these tires on my 240:
HERE: https://www.240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html#rearwheelclearance

The reason I decided on a BMW bolt pattern with custom adapters is because there are MANY more wheel styles to choose from for a BMW than for a Volvo 240. So shopping for something I liked was easier.  Nowadays adapting non-Volvo wheels can be done with custom drilled hubs. There are some offered at https://www.bneshop.com/.

These wheels are 17 x 7.5 with 35 mm offset.  I chose 20 mm thick adapters in front and 40 mm thick in back. Adding the extra 20 mm in the back helps push the wheels out more toward the outer fender. These specs worked nicely for me with the rear inner fender sheet metal work I did: https://www.240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html#rearwheelclearance.


Most custom adapter makers will tell you their minimum recommended adapter thickness is somewhere between 20 and 30 mm. Motorsport-tech.com told me their minimum thickness is usually 19-20 mm. The wheels you choose will need the right offset to compensate for your adapter thickness.  Also keep in mind that a wider front wheel/tire may also get closer to the front strut tube on the inside, so your offset calculations should be compensated for that clearance too.  I put some more info together on calculating wheel offset for a Volvo 240 here: https://www.240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html#wheeloffset

Here's a pic of the front 20 mm adapter/spacer bolted in place.

<<< In 2019 I changed tire size to 225/45-17, since I could no longer find the previous size in a tire I liked. The new tires are Dunlop SP Sport 01, a more aggressive summer tire with a stickier rubber compound. They had great reviews and I have always been very happy with Dunlop performance tires in past years.These tires grip exceptional on dry pavement, however not all that well in heavy rain.

I used the original Volvo spare for a number of years after installing the BMW bolt pattern wheels. I began thinking that if I actually had to use that Volvo spare, I would have to remove a wheel adapter first.  So I decided to look for a spare with a BMW bolt pattern.

I wanted a wheel larger than 15 inches, closer to 17 inches if possible (like my current wheels), because I wanted it to clear my larger front brakes if at all possible (and IT DOES). I wanted the spare tire diameter to be fairly close, if possible, to the same diameter as the 225/45-17 tires I have (24.9 inches tall).  And the spare tire would ultimately need to be narrow enough to fit inside the spare tire well in the trunk. Plus I really wanted a NORMAL tire, not a space-saver temporary spare. And it needed to be inexpensive.

It wasn't easy finding a wheel I liked, since many BMW wheels are much wider than I wanted (many are 8 to 10 inches).  I would have preferred a 17 inch wheel with a 6 or 6.5 inch width. I found a couple, but then I searched for an appropriate 17 inch tire. I could NOT find at tire I liked in 17 inches. I discovered it's hard to find a 17 inch tire narrow enough to fit a 6.5 inch wheel, yet tall enough to be close to 24.9 inches. Try searching. 17 inch sizes seem to begin at 195/50 and stay in low profiles, unless you want a really tall space saver.  

While searching for wheels, I found lots of USED space-saver spares on eBay. Those all seemed to have a 3.5 or 4 inch width.  That is too narrow for me.  Plus have you seen how damned expensive used BMW space-savers are on eBay??? They think they're gold plated.
I finally found this new steel wheel on eBay (pictured below). It was $80. Sold by https://www.motorcitycustoms.com
It's a steel wheel, SIZE: 16 x 6.5 inches (5x120, 72.56 mm center) with an ET (offset) of +32 mm.
Listed as Part Number X-50610R. 

Then I found the below Federal tire in size 175/60-16. It was all just barely narrow enough to fit nicely in the spare tire well.

If you need a BMW wheel for a spare like I did, I have one available CHEAP in my Used Parts Page:

What else is in the trunk?
For those long cross-country trips, in addition to a tool bag, I keep a small, lightweight aluminum jack from Harbor Freight in my trunk. It's strapped down using eye-brackets bolted to the floor just behind the rear seat. I've never needed it yet, but if I ever have to get under the car during a trip, it will sure beat having to used a factory jack.
Lightweight 33 lb.
Harbor Freight Jack: https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton...ack-64545.html

In 2017 I completed a HUGE conversion of the AC, using a complete new in-dash system from Classic Auto Air. 

  Sounds pretty drastic.  It was, but it's working so much better than the old AC ever did before.

If you're curious about the hood vents, they were originally from a 1987 Ford Sierra RS 500 Cosworth from the United Kingdom. They were rare and expensive 15 years ago. Even more rare and expensive now. They function very well getting hot air out of the engine bay and they look nice and at home on the Volvo hood.
The Sierra Cosworth used these vents a bit further forward on the hood.

In 2018 I got out my tools and completed a build project to make a DASH TOP GAUGE POD similar to the
ultra-rare accessory gauge pod offered by Volvo in the 1980s. 
This project was a lot of fun and it has it's own page and ca
n be found at: https://www.240turbo.com/dashgaugepod.html

My car has front coil-overs with 2.5 inch springs and rear adjustable coils with 5 inch springs. The front strut setup was made many years ago my a company that no longer exists, but if this interests you, you can find these and lots of other 240 performance suspension parts at BNE Dynamics.
More info about coil-overs and performance 240 suspensions can be found in my 240 Suspension Page.

- 240 SUSPENSION PAGE Click Here -

240 factory brakes were considered better than most other cars when they were developed in the 1970's, but improving on that performance was a good thing in my opinion.
My 240 BIG BRAKE PAGE will illustrate things than can be done you any 240 to make your brakes awesome.

The front upgrade I did for my 242 was the below Wilwood 4-piston calipers and 12.2 inch rotors.  They aren't "huge" brakes, but they do fit behind my 17 inch wheels.

Recent pics.

Here's an under hood shot. 

There's a lot going on under my hood, but it's pretty reliable and keeps my car going as it needs to. That's a big custom Griffin aluminum radiator with a Lincoln Mark VIII fan.  I have more info on this cooling system installation and past cooling system projects here: 240turbo.com/ElectricCoolingFans.html


I've been using SDS EFI to control fuel and spark for many years.  It's fully programmable for both fuel injection and ignition.
Before converting this car to EFI, I used SDS EFI in my old 245 Turbo for many years beginning back in 1990.  I get occasional grief from Megasquirt users who think SDS deserves no respect.  Maybe Megasquirt is better. It has more stuff, more options, maybe more potential.  While Megasquirt does offer more peripheral options than SDS,
I've never had an SDS related issue or failure in either 240s I used it in over more than 20 years. I DON'T know many Megasquirt users who can say that.

  I'm not a Megasquirt hater. Not even close.
It just didn't exist yet when I began using SDS and so far I just have never used Megasquirt on a project. I may try it someday if I get sufficiently motivated.

SDS uses a proprietary Hall sensor for crank position sensing. Since installing this on a Volvo engine was pretty much custom, I needed to make a bracket to hold the sensor. The Hall sensor then reads a pair of small magnets (supplied by SDS), which I had embedded into my crank pulley. It can be as simple as drilling a couple holes and gluing them in, but for the B21 pulley I used, I felt the magnets needed a bit more material to hold onto, so I had a shop weld on two pads as shown below.


The Hall sensor bracket was a simple thing to create using a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum angle stock, which I added slots to so it could bolt onto two oil pan bolts.  I also added an extra layer of aluminum to the front, since it needed to come out toward the pulley a little more. The result was a bracket that is rigid and fully adjustable, so it could be set to space the Hall sensor the correct distance from the pulley magnets.

Not seen in the photos is two short spacers (washers) that space the bracket down from the oil pan about 1/4 inch so it clears the oil pan lip.

SDS EFI uses a programmer as shown below to set parameters. No Laptop or tablet is used.
There are some videos below that will show how the programmer works.
Programmer Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlhgz_vVMuM
Programmer Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iBNlYUAf9M&t=7s
Hall Sensors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0eCX2AcM9w
SDS EFI YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/rv6ejguy/videos

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Humble 245 beginnings.....  This was my first 240 Turbo.  I bought this 1984 245 Turbo back in March of 1997.  I paid $3200 to who I think was the second owner in Rialto, California.  It was completely stock and original.  When I started to do a few little modifications, I really had no idea the direction it would eventually take.  This was my first 240 Turbo, so I found myself in a strange new world when it came to understand things like K-Jetronic fuel injection.  I had no clue what made it tick, but I was learning.

 I wanted to modify it. It was not fast enough.  But this Volvo was my daily driver, so as many of you know, there are limits to the kinds of mods you can do to a car that needs to get you to work in the morning. 
For those of you who were into modifying Volvos in the 90s, you'll remember there were not many sources for performance parts.  I was no stranger to hot-rodding, having previously owned a 66 Chevelle
(my very first car), which began as a bone stock 2-door Malibu with a 283 2-barrel and Powerglide. It eventually got a 400 plus HP 350 engine, a B&M racing TH-400 transmission and a custom narrowed Mopar rear end. I chose the Mopar rear end because the hard shifts of that B&M transmission kept breaking Chevy rear end spider gears.

 Then for my second car a friend talked me into buying this 1967 BMW 1600ti Alpina. It was the first year that Alpina offered such a car. This one was a former German Group 3 race car, which was later imported to the U.S.

I bought it in 1978.

This Alpina came with box fender flares ("pig cheeks"), racing suspension (with Konis), roll-cage and a 2 liter racing motor with dual Weber 45 DCOE carbs. 160 BHP in a car that weighed around 2200 lbs. This car was a handful. It had a 4.37:1 rear gear ratio with a 4 speed and it handled like a go-cart. More about this car be seen HERE: https://www.240turbo.com/volvo240.html#alpina

By 1997 when I bought the 245 Turbo, I had already been a customer of iPd for a number of years. They were the best source (often the only source) for Volvo performance improvement parts.  So mods started getting done slowly as I could manage.     


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