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Volvo 240 Hydraulic Clutch
and Stuff

     UPDATED: February 16, 2018                       CONTACT       
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Ok . . . .  So I thought I would put together a page to keep track
of all the hydraulic clutch parts I have put in my 240. 
Useful info. Maybe it will help you. Nothing here is for sale (at least from me). 

I'll back up a bit before getting to my hydraulic clutch stuff. 
<<< This is the clutch I put into my 245 way back in 2004 when I first installed a T5 transmission into my old 245.  It was custom made for me by Clutchnet in SoCal because nothing else they had in an 8.5 inch clutch would hold the torque of my 2.6 liter stroker motor. 

<<< The pressure plate was assembled using two standard spring sets stacked together.  The result was a clutch with 3000 lbs of clamping force.  It was later offered to the public by Clutchnet because it was such as simple, reliable design.  The friction disc I used was nothing special. Simple organic.

The reason I mention all this is because it will help you understand why this clutch has a tendency to snap clutch cables.  And long before they would snap, they'd require nearly constant attention with adjustments because of stretching. Not good stuff.

<<< I even know someone who even went to the trouble of modifying his 240 clutch pedal to accept TWO clutch cables. 

So back just a few years ago when I installed the T5 trans in my 242, I went with the same clutch.  I know there are better clutch setups available nowadays. I'll get around to trying one someday.  For now, this is what I have.  So after a few snapped cables, I knew I needed to upgrade to hydraulic.  This hydraulic upgrade was completed in 2011.

<<< This is the Volvo 260 clutch master cylinder I used, Volvo PN 1205729, manufactured by Fag.  It was used in manual trans 264s in North America and in all manual trans 240s in the UK and Australia because they were right hand drive.  It was still available new (shocker) when I started buying these parts in 2011.  It still seems to be available from some high-dollar sources. You can find them used and I think rebuild kits are still available if you do. 

Here's a source for a rebuilt one that was still available as of February 2018.
Centric PN 136.39000 at Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/centric,13639000,clutch+master+cylinder,1996

<<< So then I needed a clutch hose and a slave cylinder.  I was able to locate a USED hose (shown). I also chose the shown slave cylinder, which is from a 740. The parts in this photo are all manual transmission 740 parts. Note the different looking master cylinder. 740s used a master cylinder with a remote reservoir. And the length of this master cylinder makes it loo long to fit in a 240.  The fender gets in the way of a long master cylinder. 

NOTE: The hose thread pitch in the Volvo master cylinder is 12 x 1.0 mm (M12x1.0). Same for the thread pitch in the 740 slave cylinder.  If you decide to have a hose made by your local hydraulic hose shop, the original length is about 38 inches, but anything above about 30 inches will fit just fine.

The inner piston diameter for both the Fag master cylinder and 740 slave cylinder is 19 mm (0.75 inch).

Building your own clutch hose.
An original Volvo clutch hose is not easy to find.
This image is a banjo adapter that can be found on eBay or other places. It's thread size is M12x1.0 (12 x 1.0 mm) for the master cylinder and AN -3 for the hose. Optionally you can choose -4 AN hose, but these directions I will use -3 AN. Search for "Steel M12x1.0 to 3AN banjo fitting".  Using a banjo fitting helps with a tight fitting master cylinder that has very limited room for the hose.

Between the two adapters, you can seek out a premade hose or build one yourself. A premade one can be 36 inches.  If you buy the parts to build one, choose a hose that is rated for high pressure, such as this: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3260  Stainless Steel Braided PTFE Brake & Clutch Hose that can handle 3000 psi.  You want it in -3 AN size and then you'll need -3 female hose ends, such as these: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4154 Pegasus PN 3261-3-00 straight 3AN hose end. You can find good instructions for assembling the hose on YouTube or find a hydraulic hose shop and have them build one for you.

<<< Here's an adapter for the slave cylinder if you use the 740 type, which also has M12x1.0 threads.  Search for "Steel M12x1.0 to 3AN adapter."
You should use a brass sealing washer on the M12 side. If you can find one, I recommend a metal-bonded sealing washer shown below.

<<< This is a metal-bonded sealing washer.  It has a rubber o-ring embedded in it.  It's generally used when a flare fitting is not used, such as on the M12 end of this adapter.  McMaster Car has them: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=1blhle3, click "Sealing Washers," then "Metric High-Pressure Metal-Bonded Sealing Washers."  Your local hydraulic hose shop may have them too.


As I mentioned, a short master cylinder is important in a 240. Close fender. Little room.

<<< The 740 hose and slave cylinder are a perfect fit on the typical M46 bell housing. 

The circular mount on an M46 (or M47) bell housing is designed to hold either the cable end or this slave cylinder.  This slave is Volvo 740 PN 8601783 (older PN 6843913).  It's still available from a number of sources. There are some early Volvo bellhousings that have a different configuration and use a different slave cylinder.  This type can be seen in the below diagram.  You're on your own with those since I have no useful info on that slave.

Here's a source for a rebuilt one that was still available as of February 2018.
Centric PN 136.39002 at Rock Auto: http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/centric,13839002,clutch+slave+cylinder,2044


And you'll need this external snap ring (AKA: external circlip, retaining ring) to keep the slave cylinder locked in the mount.  It's Volvo PN 914463 (number for 740).  Inside diameter is 30 mm (1 3/16 inch or 1.187 inch).

<<< Here's a useful diagram showing hydraulic clutch components. Parts listed below.

1      Clutch. (381207) 1232912
2      Driven plate. (1377560)  1377561
2      Driven plate. M50, M51 (381296) 1377562
5      Hexagon screw. 986985
7      Nut plate BW55 REPL 1PCS 1272393-8,
        1PCS 948645-7,
7a    Cover washer. 1272393
7b    Flange lock nut. 985868
8      Hexagon screw. BW 55 955293
9      Clutch pedal R.H.D.  1205721
9      Clutch pedal  L.H.D.  1205719
10    Bushing. 675555
11    Shaft. 1206770
12    Return spring. 1205725
12a  Sleeve. 1229285
13    Hexagon screw. (955333) 970963
14    Flange lock nut M10x13.4 (971083)
15    Pedal pad. (666176)  1272021
16    Edge protection moulding LG 20 mm
17    Master cylinder. 1205729
18    Flange screw. 982793
19    Hexagon nut. 985877
20    Bolt. (947609)  977253
21    E-circlip ALTER 2.  951669
21    Split pin ALTER 1.  907824
22    Pipe L.H.D.  1205730
23    Tube R.H.D LG 1500 mm. 946814
24    Fitting screw R.H.D. 987593 
25    Fitting nut R.H.D. 946815
26    Clamp R.H.D. 951188
27    Six point socket screw R.H.D. ST4, 8x16 (969475)
28    Bracket. 1228785
29    Clutch line. 1206840
30    Gasket CH-38889,11994
31    Toothed washer. 940143
32    Hexagon nut. 946830
32a  Clamp. 952629
32b  Flange screw.  985739
32b  Washer.  986498
33    Control cylinder M50. M51 REPL 1 PCS
33    Control cylinder M45, M46. 1272370
34    Hexagon screw. 940142
35    Release fork. 381274
36    Joint ball. STD, TRANS M45, M46 M50, M51.
36    Joint ball. O.S.  381686
37    Release bearing. 381213
38    Boot. 381288

<<< Converting from a cable to hydraulic clutch requires that you have a compatible bell housing.  This is a later type M46 or M47 bell housing.  One part that gives it away as a later type is the opening at the top of the bell housing (top-left in the first pic) for a crank position sensor, which came on 1989 and later cars.  That's not really important for this information. Just a bit of trivia.
You won't necessarily need a bell housing that has an opening for a crank position sensor unless you're using an engine management system that requires it. The important thing is that the bell housing has the second pivot ball mounting hole for a hydraulic clutch FORK.  There are some early M46 bell housings that do not have this second mounting hole.

<<< Here are two different clutch forks. The top clutch fork is a typical cable type.  The bottom one is the hydraulic type from a 740. Any typical 740 clutch fork is perfect for this project. 

<<< I found a used 260 hydraulic pedal and fitted it into my existing manual trans pedal box.  It's a bit longer than the cable pedal because it mounts in different holes in the pedal box (these holes are higher). These higher holes were already there in my pedal box.

Finding one of these pedals wasn't too difficult. Parts like these can occasionally be found in the Turbobricks for sale section or by placing a wanted ad in the wanted section where lots of helpful 240 owners will see it: http://forums.turbobricks.com/ 

<<< Here is another view of the above hydraulic pedal. 

There are some Turbobricks threads in which people have made their own hydraulic pedals or modified a shorter cable type pedal to work as hydraulic.  That sort of work was beyond my skills when I was doing this, but there are some examples below.

<<< Here's one. More can be found at: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=326370&page=6

Here's another. More can be found at:

Moving up to 2017. After more than 5 years the 260 master cylinder began failing.  The seal began leaking when under pressure.  This may have more to do with the heavy clutch, but it could also have happened because it was a 30 plus year old NOS part when I bought it.  I could have decided to rebuild it, but I thought the chances of it holding up to my heavy clutch were not very good.  So I decided to try a different master cylinder.  There are a number of choices.  I will show you a few I considered.

Whichever master cylinder you choose, be sure to choose the correct inner piston size.  Most aftermarket master cylinders will give you several size choices.  Since I was replacing one with a 0.75 inch (19 mm) piston, that's the size I would be looking for (but if you read to the end, you'll find out I changed my mind).

<<< This master cylinder from Wilwood may be a good choice.
It's certainly short enough to fit in a 240.  I did not care for the hose outlet being on top like this. It makes bleeding more difficult than something with a hose sloping downward.  When bleeding a hose that rises above the master cylinder, air will get trapped in there.  So when bleeding, it will be pretty much impossible to get that air out if you have someone pushing the pedal while you're under the car opening the bleed valve.  It can be done with a power bleeder that has the ability to push a lot of fluid through the hose under pressure to overcome that big air bubble. 
If I had chosen one like this, I think I would have put a 90 degree fitting on there.

A benefit of this master cylinder one is that it offers an advertised stroke of 1.4 inches, longer than the 1.1 inch stroke for the Tilton. That bit of info came in handy later. You'll see if you read to the end.

<<< Here's a comparison photo of three master cylinders. 

Left side: Original Volvo 260 Fag.

Middle: Tilton 75 Series. Definitely a compact one.  Wilwood has a nearly identical model called Wilwood Compact.

Right side: Wilwood. This one is sadly too long to fit in a 240.  It hits the fender and the outlet is on the end where the fender hits.

<<< I chose the Tilton 75 Series (this one has a .750 inch piston). 
Soon after getting it I discovered that there was an unexpected problem.  The 240 firewall sheet metal just above where the master cylinder bolts on interferes with the reservoir. It's  because the reservoir is positioned so far to the rear and close to the mounting flange. Basically the reservoir hits the firewall before the mounting flange does. You can shake your head in disbelief all you want. Yes, It's true.

One solution if there is room would be a remote reservoir. My 240 did not seem to have room for that, however months after completing this I did find the below pic of a Wilwood compact master cylinder with a remote reservoir in a 240 build thread, so it seems it can be done.

<<< More on this build thread can be found at http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=335335.

A perfect solution for this master cylinder and reservoir would have been a 1/2 inch spacer shaped like the mounting flange to move this thing 1/2 inch from the firewall, but such a spacer did not exist when I was searching.

So my solution was to use a couple 1/2 inch thick round spacers and longer bolts I had on hand. There's one in this photo.  Not the most elegant solution, but it gets the job done just fine and mounting at the firewall is still very solid. Problem averted.

<<< Then it was time to have a new hose made. I took the master and slave cylinders down to a local hydraulic hose shop.  Keep in mind that most hose shops are used to making hoses for heavy equipment and they may or may not be experienced with hot rod stuff. 

Master Cylinder:
The Volvo 260 master and 740 slave both have a thread pitch of 12 x 1.0 mm. The new Tilton has 3/8-24 thread pitch, same as AN -3.  The Tilton master came with a couple of adapter fittings. One was that double male brass -3 flare fitting in the photo. The hose shop had JIC fittings and hose on hand since that's what they used for making hydraulic lines. They ended up using that double male flare along with an adapter fitting they supplied stepping it up to AN -4 size to mate with a new hose end, a 45 degree JIC (-4) female swivel fitting that was crimped to -4 high pressure Golden21/ISO 3000 psi hose. 

Slave Cylinder:
On the slave cylinder end the hose shop supplied a male JIC (AN -4) to metric (12 x 1.0 mm) adapter (with metal-bonded washer) that mates to the straight JIC female swivel fitting the shop crimped onto the other end of the hose. 

Total length of the hose when completed was about 38 inches.  Cost was about $60.

<<< This is a metal-bonded sealing washer.  It has a rubber o-ring embedded in it.  It's generally used when a flare fitting is not used, such as on the M12 end of this adapter.  McMaster Car has them: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=1blhle3, click "Sealing Washers," then "Metric High-Pressure Metal-Bonded Sealing Washers."  Your local hydraulic hose shop may have them too.

<<< This clutch rod is going to need some adjustment.  For my use it needed to be shortened almost 1/2 inch compared to when it was used with the 260 master (even with the 1/2 inch spacers at the firewall).  The threads allow a small adjustment, but for the adjustment I needed, the forward rod had to be shortened a small amount (maybe 1/8 inch) using a bench grinder.

Installation completed.
<<< To those of you who didn't believe me that the spacers were needed to fit this master cylinder/reservoir combo, have a close look. Yes, that photo is WITH the spacers. The reservoir cap is almost touching the firewall.  It does clear though.  

<<< Change Update June 2017:  I believe the piston stroke for the Fag (260) master cylinder I had been using before is about 1.3 inches. The stroke for this Tilton 75 Series master is only 1.1 inch.  This presented an issue in my car and it meant I was not getting as much pedal travel as before. So the clutch wanted to engage very close to end of the pedal travel.  I didn't like that.  I needed a bit more stroke, but this master cylinder is not available with a longer stroke. The Wilwood version is the same. So I changed to a Tilton with 13/16 inch bore (the fatter one on the right side). I was a bit surprised to see the difference in the bigger body design.  Adding that extra 1/16 inch bore adds about 17% more volume in the stroke.  It's equal to increasing the stroke from 1.1 inches to 1.29 inches. That did the trick for me.

If you can add to the info in this page, please email me. CONTACT 
Thanks, Dave

<<< When it comes time to bleeding brake or clutch hydraulics, nothing beats the Motive Power Bleeder.  I won one of these many years ago in a Volvo Davis Meet raffle and it has served me well for years and years.  DIY bleeding with no need for a helper.  Perfect.  About $50 for you if you aren't a lucky raffle winner.

AN Thread Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread
Automotive Fittings Explained: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/automotive-fittings-explained/28780
Useful discussion treads:

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