4-Speed Cooling Fan Controller/Harness Project
I am NOT offering fans,
harnesses for sale here. You may use this info to build your own. Before I published this page I
began a forum discussion about
this project.You may
find it here.
the summer of 2016 I began looking into creating my own
relay-based cooling fan controller after experiencing a succession
of failures over the years of popular high-tech variable speed fan
controllers that are on the
came to the conclusion that most of the popular variable controllers
nice technology, such as a soft start (ie:
DCC, Flexalite, etc.),
NOT expect them to be
reliable for years if using a high
current fan like the Lincoln Mark
VIII. So I needed a better
My experience over many years has been that
standard relays are much more
reliable. As long as you take reasonable care when building a
relay component harness, it will last a long time.
saying bad things about DCC?
I'm glad you asked. There are lots of people who love the Delta Current
controllers. I loved them too once. Their line of PWM variable boxes
enticing in their web site and the cost is fairly reasonable. The first
I had was when two
of them failed one after the other in my 240 (they
lasted 1.5 to 2 years
on average). At
the time I was using an early '90s Ford T-Bird fan, which pulls lots of
had the largest controller they offered at that time (65 amp) which
according to their specific instructions. DCC has
steadily increased their current capability in their controllers over
the years and as of this writing their most powerful has 95 amp
failures. I was even prepared to just buy another. What I cannot
deal with was my experience with DCC's non-existent
customer service. When
the last DCC controller failed, I
ordered another on their website and
paid with Paypal. I received no
acknowledgement of an order, no follow-up email, and as a number of
weeks went by I began to email the owner (Brian Baskin) a number of
times. My car was down the
entire time!After six weeks
had gone by with nothing,
I filed a Paypal dispute and eventually got my money back. I
never heard from Baskin. What kind of place does crap like this?
Not a place I
ever want to deal with again. They
offer a 90 day warranty, but what good is that if they NEVER ANSWER EMAILS?
They have the following statement in their site: "In a time when
profit margins govern allowable failure rates, product features are
determined by the opportunity of market exploitation, and the consumer
is seen as no more than a short term item of commodity, the value put
upon interim revenue is clear. We see things a bit different at Delta.
We appreciate the value of our customers not as commodities, but as our
best means of long term market expansion. There is no better
advertisement than word of mouth."
Ha! I agree there's no better advertising than word of mouth.
I have seen a number
of forum posts
and received emails from other people who have had the same
experiences as I had with them. I think I'll stay away from them.
Also, I've been disappointed that so many of the high-tech fan
only offer threaded screw-in temp
designed to go into your engine (or
you can have a custom bung welded on your radiator?). I have used
simple radiator fin probes for many, many years and they work pretty
darn well when placed in the correct position. Why don't more
more options? Many do not.
While I'm registering complaints about options, I also noticed that if
you want a fan
to increase to a higher speed when your AC comes on, the ONLY option seems to be
100%. Really? That seems short-sighted. What if youI want
70, 80 or 90% instead of full speed for your AC? If you're going
building a high-tech PWM controller, isn't that a simple extra to
add? Maybe AC is not really an important thing to fan
Update May 2017:
So far I have only found ONE company producing PWM
controllers with an AC speed adjustable option: http://www.autocoolguy.com/. I
haven't tried any of their products. It's nice that they're offering
As you may have noticed, I'm now using a Lincoln Mark VIII fan and shroud
(1997 model) mounted on a large Griffin
aluminum radiator. I decided to try building my own fan
controller using simple, reliable
relays to see if I could make one work the
FOUR SPEED FAN CIRCUITRY SIMPLIFIED This setup will work for any 1 or
2-speed cooling fan. If a 2-speed fan is
used, I suggest using the high circuit only. I opted for using multiple
temperature probes as shown. The probes can be mounted on or
inserted into radiator fins or into a coolant hose for direct coolant
allows you to custom set each speed setting to
a precise temperature set point for your car. Starting and fan speed
should be smooth if starting at a lower speed. Of course you may
use screw-in temp senders
somewhere, such as the radiator or engine, however I don't know of any
that are adjustable.
Relay Function Theory
I have designed this to allow the fan to remain off until your
low temp set point is reached and the sensor
activates power to the low speed relay (Relay
4). In theory this
low speed could be used to maintain cooling at idle with minimum fan
climbs a little higher, the second sensor will activate the next
relay (Relay 3), automatically
cutting power to the lower speed
only ONE CIRCUIT will be
powered at a time. This function works for
in succession as temperatures rise and increased fan speed is required.
Why not? I know two speeds is definitely not enough
for a Mark VIII fan, because the full speed is overkill most of the
time. Three speeds might be ok and the above diagram can easily
be adjusted to make it into a 3-speed controller by simply eliminating relay
speeds just seemed about
right to me. Heck, you can even build a 5-speed
harness using these
components by adding just one more relay. But
I chose to do four speeds.
The amperage capacity for the high
speed relay (Relay 1) will
depend on the
fan you use. Most 15 inch or smaller fans (such as Volvo 960, 850,
can get by with a 40A relay for the high speed, however I suggest at
least 50A. A larger fan,
such as the 17-18 inch Ford Taurus/T-Bird/Lincoln Mk VIII fans, should
use a 70 or 80A relay. These big fans can pull 40 amps continuously at
so power and ground cables for these fans should be fat, such as 8-10
GA (I'm using
The 8 and 10 GA cables I'm using for my project are high-flex
strand type. Cables in 8 gauge and larger can usually be
found sold as welding cable.
I found them sold in reasonably short lengths in Amazon so you don't
need to buy them in large spools. Fine strand cable has much finer
common automotive cable. I'm willing
to pay a liitle extra because I've grown tired of dealing with stiff,
large strand cable that's hard to form and breaks easier after years of long-term
Here's a Wire gauge Guide that you may find useful. If you pay
close attention, I think you'll find I used larger cables than
ok in my book.
OPTIONAL AC RELAY
This relay is not shown in the four speed diagram above. This optional relay will override all other
(except for the full power relay operated by an override switch). Since
preference was NOT to use 100% speed for the AC, my idea was to wire
relay to the "HIGH" relay, which actually runs below full power (this
turned out to
be 77% in my case).
The 12V switched wire at terminal 85 gets connected to the power wire
activates your AC compressor. NOTE: Or if you have an '84 to
'89 Volvo 240 you may use the AC power
which is the Red/White wire going to the AC microswitch (attached to
knob switch in the center dash).
ISO Relays used for this project:
1. Full Power 100%: SPDT
at 80 amps.
2. High: SPDT rated at 40
3. Medium: SPDT rated at 40
4. Low: SPDT or SPST rated at
5. AC: SPDT or SPST rated at
15 to 40 amps.
Mini ISO Relay
Connections (View from bottom of relay or bottom of connector
SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw): This type relay will have an 87b
SPDT (Single Pole, Double Throw): This type relay will have an 87a
center pole. RELAY PINOUTS:
30: Constant 12V (battery), unswitched
85: Signal, 12V switched (fuse panel)
86: Ground (completes coil circuit to close connection)
87: Consumer 12V (to fan or other device to be powered)
87b: Extra consumer (same as 87)
87a: Opposite of 87 (changeover relay only)
SPST vs SPDT Relays. What’s the
Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST): This relay will be
having a middle 87b spade (or no middle spade at all). This is
most common relay used for fog lights or other simple circuits. If
there is a middle 87b pin, that pin will have power whenever there is
power to the 87 pin (whenever the relay is “activated”). This way
middle 87b pin may simply be used as an extra power output.
Single Pole, Double Throw (SPDT): If you have a relay with an 87a pin
in the middle spot, it's an SPDT relay, also called a "changeover
relay." In a changeover relay, the 87a pin will be “HOT”
87 pin is "OFF," so long as the relay is connected to power. So when 87
is "OFF", 87a will be "ON". When 87 turns "ON", 87a will turn
The Hayden 3653adjustable
temperature probe sensor pictured here can
from Amazon or Summit Racing for about $20 each. It's only rated
at 16 amps, so it really should not be used for a fan without a
relay. This mechanical sensor
may be used
to trigger a 12V circuit or
ground circuit, either one. For my project I chose
circuits. The male terminals on the side are typical .250 inch
to Hayden, the temperature range is 32°F to 248°F (0°C to 120°C). Turning the trim pot clockwise
increases the temperature set point; counter-clockwise
decreases it. The kit
comes with a mounting bracket for the unit, some screws, some .250 inch
insulated terminals, some wire and
some mounting parts for the radiator probe.
I have noticed at least one fan controller company ridiculing anyone
using one of these in a car. The thing is, it's SIMPLE and
SIMPLE THINGS FAIL LESS in my experience. Complicated fan
controllers don't have the same track record, so I wouldn't say much if
I were them.
Dimensions for this
are about 2 x 1.4 x 1.2 inches (51 x 36 x 30 mm).
The resistor board for this project can be a simple auto AC/heater fan
resistor. The one I chose is
Dorman 973-018 for 1990-96
Chrysler/Dodge (4-speed fan). It's easily
found on-line. Cost is
under $10.00. This is designed to use .250 inch (6.3 mm) female
crimp terminals, but I found that .312 (7.9 mm) female terminals are a
better fit and they have a much better (larger) contact surface.
I just happened to have those on-hand. Better contact is
good, since I'm using 10 gauge wire here. <<<
This resistor board offers four speeds
to choose from. I am only using
three of them (plus a full power relay for the fourth/full
measured the resistance values for each circuit on this board and
below. There are more testing results further below also.
1. Input: High Speed
2. Input: Medium 2
3. Input: Medium 1
4. Input: Low
5: Output to fan
the resistor coils can theoretically
get hot when this circuit board is in use. It would be best to
place this thing where your fingers won't be
tempted to touch it.
I mounted mine in the lower left fan shroud.
I have taken temp readings from
this resistor board when the fan is running and have found it so far to
be not much higher than the shroud
ambient or radiator ambient temperature.
of you who cried out that this resistor board would melt, sorry, but
It was important to me to see this work
and get some good
test results for this build before I committed to installing it
in my car. It needed to actually work as expected. So I
bench-test version with all the components shown so I could get some
real performance measurements. It's important to keep in mind that
the fan controller
was tested in my car with the a fan fully installed. It was mounted to
my radiator with an intercooler and AC
condenser in front of it. I felt that if testring was done on a
bench, the fan would likely pull less amperage with
higher RPMs. That would not be
TEST #1 This test was done with
the engine OFF, so the battery voltage was not as high as it would be
if the engine was running.
Mark VIII Fan Speed/Current Testing
(static 12.7v battery with engine
off). Dorman 973-018
4-speed resistor pinouts shown below.
Peak Spike/Constant Current
spike amps measured when ramping from 77% to 100%. Ramp up from zero to
100% was not recorded.
My first suprise was seeing how the
power circuit on this resistor pack produced a number so much lower
100%. That's not a disappointment, since it offered an opportunity for
an extra speed choice below
these speed figures, you can decide which circuits you
want to use for the fan speeds you like. The 26% speed might seem ok on
speed, but once I saw how slow that actually ran the fan, I felt
differently. You can see in
the diagram up near the top of the page I listed the 26% for
my LOW speed. The reality
was that was not going to happen.
So I decided to change it to
the four speeds shown below.
FINAL SPEED SETTINGS CHOSEN FOR
(only used with override switch) AC engagement
activates the 77% speed.
test was done after
the full installation of the controller. This time with the engine running
and alternator charging(voltage readings below). Since the 26% speed
used, it was not measured here. I have a 188 degree F coolant
the car and the 36% speed seems to do very well to keep things nice and
cool at idle on a warm 85 degree day. If the climate is warmer, then
medium 55% speed comes on occasionally. Keep in mind that every
car is different. My car has a very large aftermarket AC condenser
(with dual fans) and an intercooler in front of the radiator. Those
items obstruct the flow of air to the radiator a lot when compared to
without those items. All cars are different.
Constant Current @ Voltage
H84988001 Four Relay Sealed Box. Available on-line for about $40
to $50. Pricey, yes! If you're concerned about moisture messing
with relays or maybe you just want them to look nicer, this may be a
solution. Keep in mind this box is
NOT waterproof. There is an o-ring
sealed lid, but the bottom is not sealed at all. NOTE: The
80A (full-power) relay will NOT fit in this box, since it uses .375
terminals instead of small .250 inch terminals like standard
box holds only standard relays. The 90 degree mounting ears are
and supposedly you can connect two or more of these boxes together side
I found an ABS project box to fit the
three Hayden sensors and to help make this installation look
There are a lot of sizes out there for boxes in a couple colors,
This box is 4.7 inches long x 2.6
inches wide x 1.4 inches tall O.D. (found on Amazon). I
to do some grinding on the inside to make everything fit inside. A
would have been easier, but I wanted it as compact as possible. Cost
was about $6.00. The box was painted black before completion.
Had I found this larger box first >>>
I probably would have chosen it instead: >>>https://www.polycase.com/lp-55p.
Its dimensions are 5 x 3.5 x 1.5 inches (127 x 88.9 x 38.1 mm). It
would likely have been a better fit and I think with little or no
Ford Fan Motor Connector. Fits a
variety of Ford/Lincoln/Mercury fans, including the Mark VIII fan I
search will find them in a few places. I have only found them available
with 12 gauge wire pigtails. In my opinion that's a bit small for
such a fan. I used 8 gauge welding cable.
Dorman Conduct-Tite Terminal,
AKA: Ford Standard Block Technician Terminal. This
is the type of terminal that goes into the Ford fan motor connector.
offers PN 85367
which fits 14-16 gauge wire and is
available on line. The
gauge version would be more appropriate, however so far it has NOT been
help with any real sources, please contact me. <<<
So I improvised and sucessfully used the 14-16 gauge terminals since I
larger ones. I added one of my large
terminal overcrimps to make a solid crimp over the 8 gauge cable I
used. Inserting this into the back of the Ford connector housing
can be a little tight. I opened up the holes on the back of the
connector to accommodate this fat cable. If necessary, a little
the inside of
the housing with a hobby knife will help
it go in and click. Mine went
in and clicked in place without an issue.
<<< PROPER CRIMP
tools are important. Try
not to use too cheap a crimper or the wrong type for the terminal
Buy yourself something at least as good as this one. For
those of you who are curious about what crimper I use, this is it for
90% of my crimps for non-insulated (and many insulated)
terminals. Thomas & Betts model WT 112M. It runs about
I've probably had this one for 20 years. With some practice, this
tool can create nice crimps just like a fancy tool.
<<<For a tool that's a bit more fancy,
look for a ratcheting crimper that will do open barrel F type terminals.
You can spend a lot of money on one of these tools, but it you hunt
carefully, you can find something like this one, which is only $31 for
all that stuff. The crimp type normally used for terminals I
offer here is the die set in the center. The others might come in
handy, so they would be a bonus. I don't own this one. Mine
was about $80 ten years ago. This one is cheap and might be worth the
cost, or it might explode. You can never really tell until it's in your
hands. HERE: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CVH8JNO?psc=1
Here's a decent video showing close-up crimping action for an open
This is an aluminum Chassis Mount
Resistor.It is NOT something I have tested or
used in this project. The reason this info is here is
because It has
been suggested for durability (particularly in corrosive or wetter
that some of you might consider a different style resistor instead of
the Dorman resistor board I used. Most of the suggestions people
have sent have
pointing to ceramic automotive resistors, such as those used for
ignition, AC and
cooling fans in Euro cars. The problem I encountered is that
there are very few choices for varied
resistance values in ceramic, so
take a lot of trial and error to get that working well.
So then I began looking at these Chassis Mount Resistors. The
dimensions for the models listed below are 65
x 47 x 26 mm (about 2.5 x 1.9 x 1.25 inches), they run about $10
rated for WET CONDITIONS.
Most cermamic resistors have
only a 30-40 watt capacity. The chassis mount types
I have listed below all have a 100
You would need three of them to come close to duplicating the three
speeds I have achieved with the Dorman resistor board, however I have
any of these yet to see what speeds they will actually generate. Since
the four ohm
values I found in the Dorman resistor board were 0.3, 0.8, 1.4 and 3.1
(I'm only using 0.3, 0.8 and
you can try some that are reasonably close to that, such as 0.22, 1 and
1.5 ohms. A source I found for these
you incorporate something like
this in your build, please email me. I would like to know how your
After over a year of
use, this controller has worked perfectly. Zero glitches or
That's nice for a change.
full setup installed in my 240. As you can see I opted for the fancy
sealed Hella relay box. Those four relays in the box are for AC,
Medium and High speed.
<<<Another angle. That relay on the left side of the Hella
box is the 80A full power relay. It's triggered by the override switch
on my dash. Hopefully it won't be needed, but it comforts me to have
it just in case.
This setup has been road tested in
95 degree plus Texas climate
and aside from a little fine tuning of temperature settings as I
have encountered different climates, it
works exceptional. The 77% speed I chose for the AC works very
view of the
Dorman resistor board mounted in the lower left corner of the fan
That is 10 gauge high-flex wire. The terminals are .312 inch, since I
found they fit better with more contact area than the .250 terminals
that are supposed to fit on there.
than a year later and all is working perfectly.
This is worth mentioning if you decide to used the Hayden 3653 temp
sensors. It concerns mounting the radiator fin probes on the radiator.
This image is from their instructions. They supply the shown probe
mounting parts and
tell you to mount the probe in a supplied metal/rubber mounting strap
that is then
isolated from the radiator by a foam
pad.THIS IS A REALLY
IDEA. What this does is delay radiator temps from quickly
transmitting to the probe. The delay with mounting it this way is
substantial. It has slightly less of an effect when hot air from
radiator is blowing through and past the probe, but there will be
delay when warming up the engine if the car is not moving or moving
The delay will be
such that the radiator will heat up PAST
the setting you want for the
fan to come on, so then it comes on late, and then it will DELAY the
shutting down as the radiator temps drop off, causing wide swings of
fan on/off cycle. You'll curse Hayden because you wont be able to
accurately dial in your settings. It's
just bad. Don't do that.
<<<DO THIS: The probes that come
with these units
are a bit fat and would not slip into my radiator fins without a lot of
This may be why Hayden wrote those instructions that way. I
didn't want to risk damage to my expensive aluminum radiator by bending
things, so I
against the radiator fins as shown in this photo using thin zip-ties.
it might be hard to tell in this photo, the full length of each probe is very snug
the radiator fins and they have good, solid contact. Sensor
with this method is quick and accurate. Faith in Hayden has been
Here's the override switch I placed on my dash. The small LED bulb
switch illuminates green when the fan is on.
The LED turned out to be too bright with full 12 volts, so I added a
220k ohm resistor
power wire. Now it seems just right.
The final speeds I chose have
turned out very well. LOW:
77% FULL POWER: 100%
(only used with override switch) (AC activates at 77% speed)