|UPDATED: November 14, 2018 CONTACT|
|D O M A
I N S
|Crimping Open Barrel Terminals
||Assembling EFI Crimp Connectors
| What is an OPEN BARREL
<<< It's an UN-INSULATED terminal with open "wings" as shown to the left. Those wings are crimped over the wire.
| <<< PROPER CRIMP
tools are important. Try
not to use too cheap a crimper or the wrong type for the terminal
Buy yourself something at least as good as this one.
For those of you who are curious about what crimper I use, this is it for 90% of my crimps for non-insulated open barrel and also many insulated terminals. This is the Thomas & Betts model WT 112M. It runs about $40. I've had this one for 20 plus years.
For a tool
that's a bit more fancy,
look for a ratcheting style crimper that will do open barrel F type terminals.
You can spend a lot of money on one of these tools, but it you hunt
carefully, you can find cheaper ones. This one pictured is only
around $30 for
the crimper and several different crimping dies. Sometimes you
get what you pay for when
buying CHEAP tools, so shop carefully and read reviews.
The crimp die type normally used for common open barrel terminals I use most often and offer in my pages is the die set in the center, which is similar to the BELOW larger photo. The other dies might come in handy, so they would be a bonus. I don't own this particular crimper. My fancy racheting crimper was made by MSD and was about $80 more than ten years ago from Summit Racing. There are more options to choose from now. This one pictured is cheap and might be worth the cost, or it might explode! You can never really tell until it's in your hands.
Here's a good crimping guide for beginners:
http://www.xj4ever.com/crimping my style.pdf
Here's the MSD ratcheting crimper I use
for open barrel terminals when I want the fancy crimper. Pretty
expensive compared to what you can find these days for less.
MSD crimper with ignition dies: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-35051/overview/ and open barrel dies: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-3506/overview/
a decent video showing
close-up crimping action for an open
|These style connectors
and terminals are
available in Dave's Volvo Page: http://www.240turbo.com/blackvinyl.html#EFIplugs
<<< Here's a typical sealed connector housing found in many different Bosch style fuel injection systems. This one has 6 poles and is most often used for a MAF (mass air flow) sensor.
This connector housing uses a FEMALE crmp terminal, so this housing is known as a FEMALE housing. Inserting or removing a crimp terminal from one of these housings is easy, but if you're never done this before, this page will show you how.
<<< Connector housings like these come in a number of different configurations. The most common one is a 2-pole connector shown here used for a Bosch style fuel injector. This style connector is also known as an EV-1 connector. They all use the same style crimp terminals that are inserted into these housings from the rear after being crimped onto a wire.
Here's a typical terminal
crimper that works well for EFI terminals.
|The below video
will offer a quick view of this type of crimping operation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXDedfvmI_0 (length: 1:34)
<<< It may take some practice before your
crimps come out just right. The wire needs to be tightly crimped,
so feel free to pull on the wire to test it. It should not pull
|<<< These crimp terminals will have a HOOK
sticking out like that one on the underside. That hook will be what
holds this terminal in place inside the connector housing.
|<<< As the crimped wire/terminal is
inserted into the rear of the connector housing, that hook will click
into place when it reaches the end and is fully inserted.
When fully inserted, you should hear the hook CLICK into place.
you need to remove an EFI terminal
from a housing, a simple tool is used, which may be a sharp pick or
even a micro screwdriver. The pick is inserted into the front of
connector housing to reach that hook. The goal is to push that hook
the terminal so it gets released from the housing and the terminal can
pulled out the rear of the housing.
If you remove a terminal from a housing and intend to reuse or re-insert the terminal, first inspect the hook to make sure it's still sticking out. If you bent the hook inward, you may carefully re-bend it back outward so it'll click into place when inserted.
|<<< Here's the backside of the EFI
connector. That hinged piece on the bottom is there to lock in
the wire or wire seals, if used. Wire seals are optional in a connector
like this. If you use wire seals in your connector, then using a
rubber boot is not necessary.
Here we have a connector with
some wire seals. These seals are
optional. They go over the wire before you finish your crimping and
then they get inserted into the back of the connector housing when the
crimp terminal is inserted.
|<<< Here I'm inserting a crimped terminal
into the rear of the connector housing. It has a wire seal installed.
|<<< Once the terminal is inserted, then the wire seal can be pushed up the wire and into the hole.|
|<<< Many OEM harness manufacturers will
crimp the wire seal onto the terminal. This can be done if you
| <<< If your connector housing
has the hinged piece at the bottom like this one, it can then be closed
to lock in the wire and seal. Keep in mind that not all connector
housings like this will have such a locking device. If not, you
may still be able to insert a wire seal and it should stay in place
without the need for a locking device, especially if you crimp the seal
onto the terminal.
|<<< Here we have a rubber boot that mates to the connector housing. If you're using a rubber boot, then using wire seals will not be necessary.|
|These connectors are available in Dave's Volvo Page: http://www.240turbo.com/blackvinyl.html#EFIplugs|
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