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F U L L D E S C R I P T I O N
LH 2.4 plus EZ 116 K FULL
CONVERSION ENGINE HARNESS
This is a conversion harness to convert ANY 240 to LH 2.4. It
connects to both the engine and ignition points under
your hood AND to the engine control modules under your
dash. It is designed to use LH 2.4 fuel injection
and EZ116K ignition components. An EZK ignition originally came in a 700 series, not in a 240. Volvo put a
less desirable Chrysler ignition in the 240 made
before 1989. This harness allows you to use the EZK
ignition parts.
This is a perfect complement for someone
planning to update a K-jet car or install a later turbo or non-turbo
Volvo 4 cylinder into an earlier 240.
 This conversion
harness is designed to be used
with LOW or HIGH IMPEDANCE fuel injectors.
1. For Low Impedance
Injectors (AKA: low-Z or peak and hold type): This type was original in the Volvo 700/900 TURBO. This harness has a plug where you can
plug in a Ballast Resistor Pack if needed. Any
standard Volvo 700/900 type resistor pack
will be fine. This way you may use standard fuel
injectors from a 700/900 TURBO or any other low-Z injectors.
2. For High Impedance Injectors (AKA:
high-Z or saturated
type): This type was originally used in
Volvo
non-turbos, such as your original injectors
found in a 240 non-turbo. This harness will work with these injectors as
is
with the pictured by-pass plug shown at left IN PLACE. Impedance testing methods for injectors found HERE.
|
| This harness may be
used to convert any 240 to LH 2.4 plus EZK ignition, including any early 240 models with
K-Jetronic, Turbo or "+T" conversions as well as any
other 240 made from 1975 or later. |
This harness
is designed to allow the use of a MAF Sensor on
EITHER side of the engine bay.
The MAF may be placed on
the left side for non-turbo or the right side for a turbo.
The MAF wire leads are designed to be long enough
to reach either location. |
Everything
under
the hood is a direct PLUG and PLAY.
There are a few wires under the dash
that will need to be connected. That number
depends on how old your 240 is, but it
can be up to 10 wires.
Complete and
detailed instructions are
included.
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UNDER-DASH WIRING GUIDE
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WIRE
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ORIGIN
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CONNECTION UNDER DASH
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A1. Red/Gray
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From LH ECU
|
This
wire brings input to your ECU from the AC relay pin D+/61 or AC control
switch (Red/Gray wire). It allows the ECU to compensate the idle speed
when AC is activated.
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A2. Green
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From LH ECU
|
This
wire brings input to your ECU from the AC compressor. It tells the ECU
that your AC compressor is engaged. It’s used to keep the idle speed
stable when compressor starts.
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B1. Blue
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From LH ECU, EZK ICU
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This
wire gets connected to switched power from ignition switch Terminal
15 (or any 12v circuit "ON" when Ignition Switch in the “RUN” position). This
power source may usually be tapped from the back (input) side of fuse 11, 12 or
13 (or fuse 3, 4 or 5 for 1978 and older 240). This circuit may be
combined with wire B3 (blue fat).
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B2. Red/Yellow (fat)
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From Fuel Relay
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This
is the output from the Fuel Pump Relay to supply power to the fuel
pumps. This wire should be connected at the fuse panel to the INPUT
side of the fuse for the in-tank fuel pump or fuel pumps. You can
choose this
fuse as follows: 1979 -84: Fuse 5. 1985 and later: Fuse 4. For pre-1979,
you can choose any fuse that is not currently being used, such as fuse
10, or install an in-line fuse and then connect to pump.
Click here for the Fuel Pump Relay Page to see useful 240 Fuel Pump Relay Diagrams.
If you are converting a 240 Turbo or other K-Jet 240
and you're having trouble visualizing how this circuit powers your
pumps, I have a more detailed explanation in my 240 Fuel Pump Page HERE:
https://www.240turbo.com/fuelpumprelay.html#LH2.2Fuse5
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B3. Blue (fat)
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From Coil+
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This wire gets connected to switched
power from ignition switch Terminal 15 (any 12v circuit with Ignition
Switch in the “RUN” position). This source may usually be tapped from
the back side of fuse 11, 12 or 13 (or fuse 3, 4 or 5 for 1978 and older
240). This circuit may be combined with wire B1 (blue).
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B4. Black/Blue
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From LH ECU
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This
wire gets connected to the Speedometer Pulse Output Signal on the back
of an electric speedometer, pin 31/6 (in the round plug). This
signal is produced by an LH 2.4 compatible
speedometer when it's connected to the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the differential.
For questions about workarounds concerning this for EARLIER 240s CLICK HERE.
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B5. Violet
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From LH ECU
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This
wire may be connected for the Shift Light if desired for a manual transmission
car. It goes to pin 34 of an LH 2.4 compatible instrument cluster.
|
B6. Pink/White
(2 wires)
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From LH ECU, EZK ICU
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Check
Engine Light (CEL). This wire is connected to pin 235 of an LH 2.4
compatible instrument cluster to provide the circuit for the CEL, if it's desired.
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B7. Pink
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From LH ECU
|
This
wire supplies the ECU with momentary power when the starter is
engaged. If used, connect this wire to the starter solenoid
circuit. The starter solenoid circuit is the Blue/Yellow wire in the
8-pole firewall plug. It may also be traced to a convenient location under the dash.
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B8. Red/White
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From Ignition Powerstage
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Output
to tachometer lead if needed. If a tach signal is needed for your
tach, you may connect this wire to your tach input spade.
|
If you have questions about what the "back side" or "input side" for the 240 FUSE PANEL looks like,
click here for more information and images of 240 fuse panels in my 240 Fuse Panel Page. |
LHD or RHD?:
This default harness is made for LHD (left hand drive)
cars, however a RHD (right hand drive) harness may be made if needed.
What is the difference between LH 2.2 and LH 2.4?
1. The timing maps for LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K
ignition)
are more advanced than LH 2.2 (using EZ 117K ignition). LH 2.4
(EZ 116K) has a potential ignition timing range from approximately 55º BTDC to approximately 5º ATDC.
2. LH 2.2 (with EZ 117K) allows for a maximum knock controlled retard of 13º (for B230F non-turbo EZK) or 9.8º (for B230FT turbo EZK). Retard steps are set at 2.8º and re-advance steps are 0.37º.
LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K) allows for a maximum knock controlled retard of 14º for both turbo or non-turbo variants. Retard steps are set at 2.6º up to 4895 RPM and 2.3º above 4895 RPM. The re-advance steps are 0.375º.
3. For LH 2.2 (with EZ 117K), with certain Turbo models only, factory
ignition
control units can detect an over-heating condition (12v signal sent from
a thermostat switch to EZK ICU pin 9). A safety measure is then applied
by advancing the
ignition timing 13º
when the throttle is closed (at IDLE). This feature is not used for the LH 2.2 EZK conversion harnesses offered in this page.
4. LH 2.2 (with EZ 117K) (TURBO variants ONLY) offers Knock-Controlled FUEL Enrichment.
When at least 6º of knock retard occurs in all cylinders, fuel is enriched by extending injector opening periods.
5. LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K) ALL variants also offer Knock-Controlled Fuel Enrichment.
Fuel is enriched when at least 3º to 4º
of retard occurs in all cylinders at engine speeds above 3800 RPM and
above a certain minimum engine load (regulated by the MAF).
6. LH 2.4 will allow for up to 100%
fuel injector duty cycle. LH 2.2 will not reach 100%.
7. LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K) has built in OBD (On Board Diagnostic. LH 2.2 does not have such a system. The LH
2.4 (with EZ 116K) OBD functions will store fault codes in
its memory. Control unit memory can store up to three different fault
codes, although the LED on the OBD unit can display up to seven 3-digit
fault codes. NOTE: Memory is erased and fault codes are deleted when the
battery is disconnected.
8. LH 2.2 uses a MAF with an external CO adjustment screw for fine tuning. The MAF for LH 2.4 has no external adjustment.
9. LH 2.2 has a throttle body with an
externally adjustable idle speed. LH 2.4
idle speed is not normally externally adjustable.
10. LH 2.2 (with EZ 117K) has externally adjustable ignition timing.
LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K) ignition timing is not externally adjustable.
11. While both LH 2.2 and LH 2.4 will increase idle speed when an AC
compressor is engaged, LH 2.4 also offers an idle increase when an
automatic transmission selector is moved from 'P' or 'N' to 'R', '1', '2', '3' or 'D'.
12. Both systems use an ignition distributor.
LH 2.2 (with EK 117K) uses a distributor with a Hall sensor to read
engine speed and send that signal to the control unit.
LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K) uses a distributor with no Hall sensor (no internal electrical device at all). This system uses a Crank Position Sensor (CPS) mounted on the back of the
engine block above the flywheel (or above the flex-plate for an auto
transmission) CLICK HERE for more info. The CPS reads engine speed and sends that signal to the
control unit. A CPS is considered to be more accurate than the earlier distributor Hall sensor. Adding a CPS bracket and compatible
flywheel (or flex-plate) is normally required if you're fitting LH 2.4 to an earlier 240 that did not originally have it. MORE INFO HERE
13. LH 2.4 is designed to receive an input signal from an LH 2.4 compatible
electric speedometer (1989-93 240). This signal tells the ECU if the car is moving and helps the fuel system
regulate fuel-cut during deceleration (or engine braking) and engine idle
(when stopped). This later type LH 2.4 speedometer would normally be receiving an
input signal from a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
in the differential.
All 1986 and later 240s came with a VSS equipped differential, however
two different types of VSS systems were made (non-ABS braking type and
ABS type). The early type came in 1986 to 92 240s (without ABS).
The later type came in 1991-92 240s with optional ABS and 1993 240s,
which came standard with ABS. More info and photos of these VSS sensors
and differentials can be found in the Volvo Rear End Page: https://www.240turbo.com/volvorearends.html.
There are some WORK-AROUNDS for those installing LH 2.4 into an earlier 240 that does not have
the typical VSS signals - CLICK HERE for more info on this.
LH 2.2 has no need or provision to receive a VSS signal, making it a
more simple option for an early 240 without a VSS equipped rear
differential.
14. If the car is to be turbocharged and an overboost fuel cut is needed, LH 2.2 uses an external overboost switch, which gets a boost signal from the intake
manifold. This ON/OFF switch reads boost pressure in the same manner the 240 Turbo did.
The overboost switch will cut power to the fuel pump relay when it
reaches its set maximum boost point.
LH 2.4 doesn't use any external overboost switch. LH 2.4 can regulate an
overboost fuel cut function using an engine load signal from the MAF sensor. The MAF
generates a
voltage signal based on air flow. When it reaches a programmed
threshold, it will introduce fuel cut protection. The factory threshold
is believed to be about 5.1v. with a boost limit of around 12-13
psi. Workarounds are possible for higher boost options. One involves
using a diode across two of the MAF
terminal wires. Or an option can be switching to a larger (3 inch) MAF from a 960. Plus
some LH 2.4 ECUs can be
reprogrammed or "chipped" to modify this and other functions. More on chipping below or CLICK HERE.
15. The parts needed for your
240 will also be different between an LH 2.2 or LH 2.4 conversion,
depending on what year or model 240 you have. Here are some examples.
Early 240 or 240 Turbo:
Installing an LH 2.2 conversion into an early 240 that originally had
mechanical fuel injection (K-Jet) will
be less work than installing an LH 2.4 conversion, but either can be
done. LH 2.4
will
require a Crank Position Sensor (CPS) on the engine, which is not found
on an
early 240. LH 2.2 does not use this sensor, so it's not needed for LH
2.2. There is more information about adding a CPS below for an LH 2.4
installation. That can be found HERE.
Early 240 or 240 Turbo: If you're installing a later engine,
which previously used LH 2.4 (B230F 1989 or later. B230FT 1990 or
later), it would have come with a Crank Position Sensor and that sensor may be used.
Early 240 or 240 Turbo: LH
2.4 also should have a signal from a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the
rear differential. Early 240s (before 1986) will not have a VSS. LH 2.2
has no need for a VSS signal, so that makes LH 2.2 a less complicated installation. More information about work-arounds for LH 2.4 and a VSS can be found HERE.
Early 240 or 240 Turbo: If you're using a B21 engine block that did not originally have a drilled hole for a Knock Sensor,
that hole will need to be drilled and tapped for any LH 2.2 or LH 2.4
conversion. This hole was done at the
factory for all 1983 and later B23F and B23FT blocks and all 1985 and
later B230F and B230FT blocks. B21 blocks (B21A, E, F, or FT) did not
have this hole drilled and tapped from the factory and very early B21
blocks will not even have a cast-in boss that can be drilled. More information about adding this hole can be found HERE.
Early 240 or 240 Turbo FUEL PUMPS:
If you're wondering if you need to change your K-Jetronic fuel pumps to
something different, you do not. The original K-Jet in-tank pump and
main pump are 100% compatible with an any EFI system installation. You may
want to consider changing to higher capacity pumps if you're increasing
power to the point that the stock pumps may not supply enough fuel.
Otherwise, no change is required.
1985-88 240: A 240 from these
years would have come with LH 2.2, so this of course makes installation
of an LH 2.2 +EZK conversion pretty simple. Installing an LH 2.4 +EZK
conversion in a 1985-88 240 means you
will need to add a Crank Position Sensor (CPS) to the engine or use a
later engine that has one. More info can be found HERE.
More information about PARTS needs for an LH 2.2 installation can be found HERE.
More information about PARTS needs for an LH 2.4 installation can be found HERE.
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How do I know if my later 240 has LH 2.4 or LH 3.1?
Bosch LH 2.4 (with EK-116K ignition) began being installed in 240s beginning in 1989 and continued through 1993.
Beginning in 1990, some 240s got Bosch LH 3.1 EFI instead. LH 3.1 also came with EZ-116K ignition.
LH 3.1 was only installed in MANUAL TRANSMISSION 240s beginning in 1990
that were sold in USA (except California). LH 3.1 cars did not have EGR.
All 1989 and later
240s with MANUAL TRANSMISSION or AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION sold in
CALIFORNIA came with LH 2.4 (beginning in 1990 all California 240s also
came with EGR). Later years (1993 for sure) got Pulsair as well.
All 1989 and later 240s with AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION sold in USA (except California) and Canada came with LH 2.4. These models came without EGR.
There are a few ways to tell if a 240 has LH 2.4 or LH 3.1. If the car is in front of you, you can look under the hood. Find the MAF sensor. If the MAF sensor has a 6-pole connector, then it has LH 2.4. If the MAF sensor has a smaller 4-pole connector, then it has LH 3.1. The two styles of MAF sensors look very different.
 
You can also tell by looking at the VIN.
|
CODE 88: LH 2.4
<<< This VIN plate is from a 1993 245 with a manual transmission. It has ENGINE CODE 88, which indicates it was equipped with LH 2.4. |
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CODE 82: LH 3.1
<<< This VIN plate is from a 1992 245 with a manual transmission. It has ENGINE CODE 82, which indicates it was equipped with LH 3.1. |
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Where should I place the LH 2.4 ECU and EZK ICU in my 240 conversion project?
 I think the
best place to mount the control units is where the factory placed them
for later 240s. Under
the right side dash. If you have access to used parts or salvage yards,
the original mounting brackets would be a good thing to get. The LH ECU
bracket from any 1985-93 240 will work. The EZK ICU bracket is found
in 1989-93 240s.
Also, if you're pulling an EZK unit from a 740, you'll find it located under the steering column just to the right of the brake pedal bracket.
|
Where can I find pin-out function diagrams for LH 2.4 and EZK 116 control units?
 <<< CLICK THIS IMAGE for PDF document: This is the Pin Function Diagrams specific to THIS LH 2.4 CONVERSION HARNESS.
MORE Pin Function Diagrams for K-Jet, LH 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4 systems can be found in the HARNESS PAGE here: https://www.prancingmoose.com/volvoharnesses.html#pinfunctions
|
How can I have my LH 2.4 ECU Chipped?
Having an ECU chipped is optional. Altering the programming is not required to install LH 2.4 in a 240.
There are some resources if you want to pursue this. Here's a good place to start. CHIPPING FAQ: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=84817
Also there is a source in Sweden here: https://www.stonis-world.com/chipsfrb.html
and here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=355788
Or you can check out how to program your own LH 2.4 ECU using THE OSTRICH EMULATOR.
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How do I know if my fuel injectors are low
impedance or high impedance?
If you know
they are from a non-turbo Volvo 240 or 740, then they are
high impedance. Stock 740 Turbo (B230FT) injectors, known as "Greentops", are low impedance types.
You can measure the
resistance across the two electrical terminals
of the injector. If the resistance is between
1.5 and 4.0 Ohms you have low impedance
injectors. If the resistance is between 8
and 16 Ohms you have high impedance injectors. YouTube Video Here.
For best results, a set of injectors should be
fairly close to each other in an Ohms test.
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Great fuel injector info
compilation here: forums.turbobricks.com/26083.
Here are some sites that offers reconditioned
injectors and they have a large listing of part
numbers to look at: www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com,
http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Flow_Rates.
And here is an extensive table listing from Stan Weiss for Bosch (and other) fuel
injector PN's with flow rates: http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm.
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How can I find an alternate fuel injector
that will work?
So for example, suppose you currently have
"Greentops" (stock low impedance B230FT injectors, PN 0-280-150-357). You may use those
injectors (or any low impedance injector) for
this conversion without any issues as long as
you are using a fuel injector ballast resistor.
On the other hand, suppose you want to use a high impedance
alternative for this conversion harness. That's also possible with this
harness by using the ballast resistor BYPASS PLUG.
COMPARABLE ALTERNATIVES:
Checking some fuel injector tables (listed above), you'll find that the stock
"Greentops" have a flow of about 28.6 lbs/hour
(300 cc/min).
So if you want something close to that, a comparable alternate can
be any of these:
PN
0-280-150-785 "Orangetops"
from a Volvo 5 cylinder 850 turbo (29 lbs./hour).
PN
0-280-150-737/738 from an
Audi/VW turbo (29 lbs/hour).
PN
0-280-150-218 from a
Buick GN V6 Turbo (29.7 lbs/hour).
Lots of alternatives can be found.
|
 BOSCH EV1 PLUG: The EFI electrical connector
plugs that are used on all factory Volvo
240/700/900 harnesses and on THIS
conversion harness are known as Bosch EV1
plugs (photo at left). Volvo
changed to a later style Bosch EV6 plug
in the late 1990's or early 2000's.
When
searching for fuel injector part numbers you should
know that part numbers for fuel injectors
appearing as X-XXX-150-XXX will all use
Bosch EV1 plugs.
Later style Bosch EV6 plugs are found on part
numbers appearing as X-XXX-155-XXX.
Here's a
comparison page of different injector connector
plugs used: https://www.injectorrx.com/bosch-fuel-injectors. |
|
So why would I buy this
conversion harness when I can pull harness parts from a
salvaged 240 or 740 for less money
and make my own harness?
 SHORT ANSWER: Because 30 plus year old used and heat-soaked
harnesses have issues like this pic.
Click here to see more in the FAQs. |
|
Do I need to use a
Later Type LH 2.4 Compatible
Speedo or Later Instrument Cluster
and a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
in the REAR DIFFERENTIAL?
This section concerns the need (or preference) to connect the B4 Black/Blue wire in the LH 2.4 conversion harness (CLICK HERE to see this wire)
to an LH 2.4 compatible speedometer (a speedo with a VSS Pulse Output Signal).
For this VSS signal to be valid, it would mean that the speedo is also connected
to a
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the rear differential.
The speed pulse signal
tells
the ECU whether the car is moving or not and it informs the fuel module
when it should cut fuel during deceleration (engine braking) and how the
idle
should be maintained when stopping and when stopped. If this speed
signal is missing from the ECU, you can
probably expect to experience some unstable idle behavior.
This LH 2.4 conversion harness is designed to
accept this Speedometer Pulse Output Signal from your car if it has one. The problem is if you have an early 240 made before
electronic speedometers were introduced in 1986, then you don't have a rear
differential with a VSS. In this case I have begun compiling some choices to solve this below.
It is NOT required to have a rear differential with a VSS.
| If you have done this or can help add to this info, please EMAIL ME. I would like to here about it. |
|
|
As mentioned above, here is a WORK-AROUND that can be used to create a suitable VSS signal that can be read by the LH 2.4 ECU.
The below information is derived and expanded from bobxyz's discussion entries in the Turbobricks thread found at http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=342812.
Generating LH 2.4 VSS from Cable Speedometer Cruise Sensor
bobxyz:
On LH 2.4 cars, the VR (variable reluctance) sensor on the rear differential feeds a signal to the
speedometer. On the speedo is a circuit board, which both drives the
speedo needle and generates the VSS signal used by the LH 2.4 ECU.
See http://cleanflametrap.com/speedo.html. (Image below)
bobxyz:
The 3-pin connector above is Ground, +12volts, and VR sensor input. The VSS OUTPUT
to the ECU is the outer-most one of the three silver female pin
connectors on the RIGHT side of the picture. A close up of those three pin connectors is below.
bobxyz:
On cars with
early cable-driven speedos, which were equipped with CRUISE CONTROL,
there is a VR sensor for the cruise control on the back of the speedo
(not present if no cruise control was optioned).
This VR sensor generates a signal that is about half the voltage and
half the rate of the normal rear differential VR sensor used on LH 2.4
cars.
bobxyz:
I've been curious
what would happen if you wired the early speedo cruise VR sensor into a
scrap circuit board (PCB) from a later electric speedo (pre-ABS), and
then used the VSS output from the circuit board to drive the LH 2.4 ECU.
It might work OK, or the voltage might not be enough, or the pulse rate
might not be enough. I had the parts to try part of this experiment.
Otherwise, you
can use a front wheel ABS hub and sensor with an ABS speedometer circuit
board to generate the VSS signal for the ECU, or swap to a later
differential with a VR sensor and use the matching speedo circuit board.
bobxyz:
The later 240s use an electronic speedometer with a VR sensor in the
rear differential. The electronic speedos also supply the VSS vehicle
speed signal to the LH 2.4 ECU. It's possible to use the circuit board
from an electronic speedo with the cruise control VR sensor on the early
cable speedo to generate a VSS signal for the LH 2.4 ECU.
Here's another picture of the circuit board for an electronic
speedometer (a 1991 in this case), showing the main 3-pin connector in
the main center (bottom) and the 3 single-pin connector sleeves on the
right. +12v power comes in
through the main connector and goes directly to the leftmost single pin
connector. This then needs to be jumpered to the center single pin
connector (or you can just wire +12v directly to the center single pin
connector).
One side of the above VR sensor (back of the speedo) goes to ground, the
other side will be connected to the leftmost pin (labelled VR Sensor)
on the below main center 3-pin connector. Polarity of the speedo VR
sensor doesn't matter.
The VSS signal OUTPUT to the LH 2.4 ECU is labelled below.
In the center of the circuit board is the stepper motor, which drives the odometer gears. The blue and brown wires at the top of the board go to the speedometer needle galvanometer.
EXPERIMENT TIME:
bobxyz:
Here
are pictures showing a hand drill driving a CABLE speedo, with the
cruise control VR sensor output connected to an electronic speedo.
It was noted that the electronic speedo reads ~2.5x low. I didn't know
if this would work OK with the LH 2.4 ECU for idle control, or if it
needed to have a higher rate. (The electronic speedos use either 12
tooth differential sensors, or 48 tooth sensors in the later ABS
240s). If this doesn't work, it should be possible to use an ABS
front wheel hub sensor (48 tooth) with the speedo circuit board (PCB)
from a 240 ABS speedo.
bobxyz: There
are 2 screws holding the circuit board to the speedometer, and a couple
pairs of wires. I unsoldered them but you could just clip them off. The
rotor for the odometer stepper motor just falls out.
bobxyz: By
itself, the circuit board draws ~1.4 watts of power. Most of this goes
into the odometer stator coils. I think that you'd be fine wiring up the
circuit board as shown above and wrapping it in electrical tape. The
stator housing does get hot from the power (~115 °F after an hour on the
benchtop at 60 MPH).
I went further on mine and removed the stator. Clip the 4 plastic heat
stake pins flush and unsolder the 3 winding pins. Without the stator,
power draw was only ~0.4 watts. I also had a scrap of big heat shrink tubing
but it wasn't quite big enough so I trimmed off the bottom edge
connector and wired directly to the circuit board points.
bobxyz: If
anyone tries this, please post an update on how the LH2.4 behaves. Does it have good idle even though the VSS rate is ~2.5x slower than
standard? Does the Shift light (if equipped) do anything weird, or does
it just not work?
FOLLOW-UP:
bobxyz: I've
been running my LH2.4 swapped '85 GLT AW-71 K-Jet for a while now with
no weird idle issues. Generating the LH 2.4 VSS signal from the Cable
Speedometer Cruise Sensor seems to work just fine.
Here's a picture of the early cluster with the electric speedo VSS PCB
hidden in black heat-shrink. A mod was done to use the Lambda Sond Service
light as a Check Engine Light (CEL).
Mod Description: The Lambda
Service Counter box was removed so the Lamba light in the gauge cluster
could be used for a CEL. To do this, you should clip out the diode on
the Lambda light so that the light will be illuminated only by the EZK
or ECU CEL signal and not by the alternator. With the key in the "ON"
position, the EZK/ECU turns on the CEL as a bulb check. Both CEL wires
(ECU+EZK) are bridged in the harness, so either one can ground the check
engine light to turn it on.
bobxyz: After some side discussions, and more reading (reference to: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=191366) . . .
. . . my curiosity won out and I tried unplugging the VSS wire from the LH 2.4.
Then I went for a leisurely 20 minute neighborhood and highway drive.
Surprisingly, I didn't notice any idle issues. I checked for
codes (OBD hole #2), and there were none (1-1-1). Remember, this is a
AW71 automatic, not a manual. If it matters, I'm running a stock '937
ECU and a stock '148 EZK.
Then I went for a slightly more spirited drive (I still have less than
500 miles on the rebuilt engine, so when I say spirited, think granny's a
little late to church and may not get her favorite pew spirited). I
also clicked off the overdrive when on the highway for a few minutes --
cruise RPMs went up from ~2K to ~3K. With this, I did notice a high idle that wouldn't go away until the
engine was turned off. The idle was ~1000 to ~1100 RPM in Drive, and
went up to ~1400 RPM in Neutral. Normally, it idles a bit under 800rpm.
This time, I got the expected 3-1-1 diagnostic code due to a missing VSS
signal. I was also watching the WBO2 gauge to see if deceleration fuel
cut changed at all, but didn't notice anything obvious.
I'm assuming the automatic tranny masks the high idle as compared to a
manual tranny, and that you need higher RPMs plus some load to trigger
the issue in the first place.
Earlier this week, during our late season snow storm, I put together another VSS board for smoothdurban. It will be interesting to see if it works for him, and if he sees the same issues.
Response: smoothdurban
I am hoping to install the board on Monday.
My engine runs and idles flawlessly without the VSS. Again less then 200
miles on a rebuilt engine so I am not running any long highway runs or
12+ psi of boost. Mine is a MANual!
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-
Ok I couldn't wait so I installed it an it definitely has an effect on
idle. First off my throttle body has an Idle adjustment screw.
Originally I had this screw adjusted such that it was completely closed
and without this hack installed it seemed to idle fine in all
conditions.
After installing the board provided to my by bob right off the bat the
idle was low, almost to the point of stall. I adjusted the idle screw
open a few turns and it runs like a champ. By far more adaptive then it
was before.
What was the correct procedure to set idle again? Disconnect the IAC and the set base to 500?
Perhaps this is just me but it seems to accelerate a little better too.
Bob, I did verify that the light you sent with my board is flashing and you're instructions were superb!
I cannot check for codes as my code reader has a couple breaks in that
jumper wire. Perhaps I can rig something up tomorrow or put in a request
for a good used one in the wanted section or borrow the one from my
245!!
Its late here so I haven't had a chance to go to the highway yet but I plan on trying it tomorrow.
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-
Just another update.
I got this dialed in and it works flawlessly.
Thanks again Bob for your help. I highly recommend this is the way to go if you want to supply VSS to your ECU.
Cheers! Now make some more!
OPTIONAL CIRCUIT BOARD INSTEAD OF A VOLVO SPEEDOMETER PCB.
Finding a 30 year old Volvo electric speedometer so you can scavenge the PCB (printed circuit board) is getting harder and more
expensive. So I have outlined an option below of using a
different PCB to translate the VSS signal needed for LH 2.4.
This is a Microsquirt/Speeduino style VR Conditioner Board, originally created for use with Microsquirt fuel injection. It's available for purchase from http://jbperf.com/dual_VR/v2_1.html.
If you purchase one for use as shown here, you should buy the 12V EXTERNAL version.
The diagram below will offer guidance on connecting this board to your
speedometer cruise control VR sensor and to the LH 2.4 ECU.
A transistor needs to be added to the PCB output.
When adding devices, such as a transistor, it's advisable to
build them on a small piece of circuit perf board, so that wires are
more resistant to damage if they get tugged. The board assembly should
then be placed in a housing or at least inside heat-shrink tubing for protection.
Thank you to Bob (bobxyz) for his help in this.
Your feedback or comments are welcome: CONTACT
Here's a source for some other varieties of PCBs and speed converters for converting VR signals to Hall signals.
https://sirhclabs.com/store
If you are interested in learning more about VR (variable reluctance) or Hall Effect sensors, or the difference between them, here you go:
VR Sensor: A variable
reluctance sensor is also known as a magnetic sensor. It will read
teeth on a (ferrous) toothed wheel as they pass the sensor head. This
sensor will normally have 2 wire leads
(signal and ground). It does not require external power (making it a
passive sensor). There are some VR sensors with three wire leads. One is
the LH 2.4 Crank Position Sensor. With this sensor there are two
VR leads, which are shielded. The third wire is a ground which is
attached to the Ignition Control Unit internal ground.
Hall Effect Sensor: This sensor will also read teeth on a (ferrous) toothed wheel. This sensor requires power and will have 3 wire leads
(power, ground and signal). The power required will generally be
between 5 and 24 volts. A Hall effect sensor is
more sensitive to electrical interference (EMI) than a VR sensor, so the sensor and signal
lead is best kept away from high current devices, such as alternators or
heavy power cables. To combat EMI, this signal lead is normally shielded
or treated as a twisted pair with the ground lead.
More info: https://fullfunctioneng.com/info/Hall%20vs%20VR.pdf
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|
PARTS NEEDED to Complete a Conversion.
What PARTS
will I need for an LH 2.4 plus EZK conversion using this
harness?
|
If you already have a 240 with LH 2.4 (any
1989-93 240), then you can use your existing
parts. You should also change your fuel injection ECU to a
TURBO ECU if you will be doing a TURBO car.
If you have a 1988 or earlier 240, you'll need to acquire the
below LH 2.4 specific parts.
NOTE Regarding LH 3.1 and Regina EFI:
Some late 240s with manual transmissions came with LH 3.1 EFI.
Most LH 3.1 parts are not compatible with this conversion.
And some late 740/940 non-turbo cars came with
Regina EFI and Renix ignitions.
Fuel and ignition ECUs from Regina cars are not compatible.
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|
 |
EZ
116K
ICU (Ignition Control Unit).
EZ 116K was used in all LH 2.4 equipped 240s and
most 700/900 models.
This one
pictured is PN 0 227 400 146.
While it may bot be required, it's
recommended that you choose turbo
or non-turbo type EZK box as appropriate
for your car.
If you're pulling an EZK box from a 740, you'll find it located under the steering column just to the right of the brake pedal bracket.
NOTE: Be sure to use an EZ 116K ICU. An earlier EZ 117K ICU (made for LH 2.2 only) is NOT compatible with LH 2.4. |
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EZ 116K ICU
PART NUMBERS
|
NON-TURBO EZK ICU (Bosch part Numbers)
0 227 400
119 - 740, 940.
0 227 400
140 - 240. EGR.
0 227 400
146 - 240.
0 227 400
147 - Gold, silver or bronze color. Chippable. 740 16V B234F/G.
0 227 400 152 - 740, 940.
0 227 400 169 - 240.
0 227 400 209 - Gold, silver or bronze color. Chippable. 240. EGR.
NON-TURBO EZK ICU (Volvo Part Numbers)
3501688 (B230F designated California).
3517402 (B230F designated USA, Fed.)
1367178 (B204E)
3517608 (B234F)
Larger LH and EZK
Part Number listings here (Chipping FAQ).
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TURBO EZK ICU (Bosch Part Numbers)
0 227 400
117 - 940 Turbo
0 227 400 148 - 940 Turbo (1998 B230FT)
0 227 400
149 - 740, 760, 780 Turbo. EGR.
0 227 400
159 - 740, 760, 940, 960 - 16V Turbo B204FT/GT
0 227 400
207 - Gold, silver or bronze color. Chippable. 940 95-96 automatic, EGR some models.
0 227 400
208 - Gold, silver or bronze color. Chippable. 740, 760, 940, 960 - 16V Turbo B204FT/GT
0 227 400 214 - 760, 940 Turbo 1992-93, EGR.
0
227 400 219 - Gold, silver or bronze color. Chippable. 940 95-96 manual, EGR.
Larger LH and EZK
Part Number listings here (Chipping FAQ).
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LH 2.4
Fuel ECU PART NUMBERS
Larger LH and EZK
Part Number listings here (Chipping FAQ).
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LH 2.4 NON-TURBO
FUEL ECU (Bosch Part Numbers)
0 280 000 549 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G.
0 280 000 556 - 240 1989 EGR, 740 1989-90 EGR, B230FD. Suitable substitute: -937, -967, -954.
0 280 000 561 - 240 or 740, B230F. -561
with PINK label is problematic. White label is preferred. Suitable
substitute: -933, -935, -951.
0 280 000 562 - 740, 940 1991 B234F, EGR. Suitable substitute: -928.
0 280 000 571 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G. Suitable substitute: -928.
0 280 000 572 - 240, 740 B230F 1990-92.
0 280 000 590 - 740.
0 280 000 594 - 740.
0 280 000 911 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G.
0 280 000 928 - 740, 940 1991-92 16V B234F/G.
0 280 000 933 - 240. No cold start injector.
0 280 000 934 - 940.
0 280 000 935 - 940.
0 280 000 936 - 940.
0 280 000 943 - 240 EGR, 940 1993-94 B230FD. Suitable substitute: -946.
0 280 000 946 - 240 EGR, 940.
0 280 000 949 - 940.
0 280 000 951 - 240 1993, 740. No cold start injector.
0 986 261 104 - 740 (reconditioned).
0 986 261 738 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned).
0 986 261 746 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned). EGR
0 986 261 751 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned).
0 986 261 758 - 740 (reconditioned).
0 986 261 760 - 740 (reconditioned).
0 986 261 805 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned).
0 986 261 807 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned).
0 986 261 811 - 740, 940 (reconditioned).
0 986 261 812 - 940 (reconditioned).
0 986 261 817 - 740 (reconditioned).
0 986 262 700 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned).
0 986 262 704 - 940 (reconditioned).
0 986 262 712 - 940 (reconditioned).
0 986 262 713 - 740 (reconditioned).
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Larger LH and EZK
Part Number listings here (Chipping FAQ).
LH 2.4 TURBO ECU (Bosch Part Numbers)
0 280 000 560 - 760 Turbo B230FT 1990-91 with EGR. Suitable substitute: -563.
0 280 000 563 - 760 Turbo B230FT 1989-92.
0 280 000 578 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT.
0 280 000 596 - 940 Turbo.
0 280 000 597 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT.
0 280 000 926 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT.
0 280 000 932 - 940 Turbo.
0 280 000 937 - 940 Turbo 1991-92 B230FT.
0 280 000 939 - 940 Turbo. B230FT EGR
0 280 000 950 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT.
0 280 000 954 - 940 Turbo 1995 B230FT/FK.
0 280 000 962 - 940 Turbo 1994 B230FT.
0 280 000 967 - 940 Turbo 1993-94.
0 280 000 975 - 940 Turbo 1995 B230FT/FK.
0 280 000 976 - 940 Turbo 1996 B230FT/FK.
0 280 000 977 - 940 Turbo 1996 B230FT/FK.
NOTE: This 977 ECU is known as an "immobiliser"
ECU. It normally requires the correct matching key to start the car.
You will have difficulty otherwise. This ECU
can work if the chip is replaced with an
aftermarket tuned chip.
0 280 000 979 - 940 Turbo.
0 280 000 980 - 940 Turbo.
NOTE: This 980 ECU is known as an "immobiliser"
ECU. It normally requires the correct matching key to start the car.
You will have difficulty otherwise. This ECU
can work if the chip is replaced with an
aftermarket tuned chip.
0 280 000 981 - 940 Turbo.
NOTE: This 981 ECU is known as an "immobiliser"
ECU. It normally requires the correct matching key to start the car.
You will have difficulty otherwise. This ECU
can work if the chip is replaced with an
aftermarket tuned chip.
0 280 000 983 - 940 Turbo.
0 280 000 984 - 940 Turbo 1997-98 (EU only). Highly desirable ECU.
NOTE: This 984 ECU is known as an "immobiliser"
ECU. It normally requires
the correct matching key to start the car.
You will have difficulty otherwise. This ECU
can work if the chip is replaced with an
aftermarket tuned chip.
0 986 261 744 - 760 Turbo (reconditioned). EGR.
0 986 261 754 - 740, 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 261 762 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 261 763 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT (reconditioned).
0 986 261 809 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 261 813 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 261 814 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 262 702 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT (reconditioned).
0 986 262 705 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 262 706 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 262 707 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 262 708 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 262 709 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 262 711 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT (reconditioned).
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  240 Distributor
(any LH 2.4 compatible type from a 1989-93
240). Compatible Part Numbers: BOSCH 0237523003.
Additionally
it's possible to use a distributor from an LH 2.2 240 if you simply remove the
Hall generator. This is considered to be a "gutted" distributor:
BOSCH PN 0237520001, 0237520004
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|
 Ignition Coil. While
there has been very little information published that suggests a
specific coil is required for LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K), this information is
offered as the standard Volvo specifications that may come in handy.
Coil Specification:
Volvo PN 9438228 (1317810, 1317815). Bosch PN 0 221 122 334.
Primary winding.
Resistance measured between Terminals 1 (Neg) and 15 (Pos): 0.6 to 0.9 Ohms
Secondary winding.
Resistance measured between Terminal 1 (Neg) and High-Tension Terminal: 6.5 to 9.0 kOhms.
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 Bosch
MAF
sensor (AMM). LH 2.4 uses BOSCH PN 0280212016,
which will be compatible for turbo or
non-turbo. This MAF is found
on any 1989 and later 240 (with LH 2.4) or
any 1990 and later 740 Turbo or any 1989 or
later 740/940 non-turbo (with LH 2.4 of
course).
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 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). BOSCH PN 0280120325, VOLVO PN 1306938, 3517068. Found in any LH 2.2 or LH 2.4 240, 700 or 900. |
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 Idle Air Valve
(any LH 2.4 compatible).
This one pictured is BOSCH PN 0280140516
from any 1989-93 240 (with LH 2.4) or any
1989 and later 740 Turbo or and 1990 and
later 740/940 non-turbo (with LH 2.4 of
course).
NOTE:
Many late 240s with manual transmissions were equipped with LH 3.1.
Some late 740/940 non-turbo cars came with
Regina EFI. |
|
 
EZK Ignition
Powerstage. ANY
EZ 116 K or
EZ 117 K powerstage (from any LH 2.4 240 or any LH 2.2
or 2.4 700 or 900) is fully compatible
for this
conversion.
This
one pictured is BOSCH PN 0227100124 or VOLVO PN 3501921.
The normal (factory) mounting location for a powerstage in a 240 is on the left inner fender just forward of the battery.
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 <<< Here is the typical place you can find the powerstage in a 740.
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 Fuel Injection Temp Sensor for LH 2.4, PN 1346030.
This is the typical Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor that any Volvo LH
2.4 equipped car will use (or Regina equipped car).
If
you're curious about appropriate resistance test measurements for this,
here you are (despite having a different PN than LH 2.2, the resistance
values are identical):
Temp - Resistance
-10 C (14 F) - 8260-10560 Ohms (8.26-10.56 kOhms)
+20 C (68 F) - 2280-2720 Ohms (2.28-2.72 kOhms)
+80 C (176 F) - 290-364 Ohms (0.290-0.364 kOhms)
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 Single Wire
Coolant Temp Sender VOLVO PN 460191. This
harness uses a ONE WIRE coolant temp
sender (for your dash temperature gauge). This is the sender normally found on engines in
240s. If you have an engine from a
700/900 model, it will have a 2-pole temp
sender. It must be changed to this 1-pole
type.
If you're curious about resistance test measurements for this, here you are:
Temp - Resistance
50 C (122 F) - 282 ohms (0.282 kOhms)
100 C (121 F) - 60 ohms (0.060 kOhms)
120 C (248 F) - 40 ohms (0.040 kOhms)
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 Bosch
Knock
Sensor. You'll need one as shown here that uses a
2-pole female plug. You cannot use the single spade Chrysler type.
The newer style is VOLVO PN 1367644. It
can be found in any LH 2.2 700 or 900 or LH 2.4 240, 700 or 900 or any
Regina controlled 700. Other part numbers: 0261231006, 1326658, 80246023101, 80246023738, 9142415, 94460614500, 95160614100.
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If you
have an engine from an early 240 with a B21,
first check the block for the cast-in pad for the knock sensor
mounting location. It will be on the intake side at the top between
cylinder 3 and 4. Very early B21 blocks (1976 to unknown) had no
mounting position cast into the block. Engine blocks began receiving this mounting pad sometime before 1982.
If your block has the mounting pad, but it's not yet drilled and tapped,
you'll need to drill and tap the engine block with the appropriate
thread for
the knock sensor. The Bosch knock sensor
shown above uses an M8 (M8-1.25) bolt. The
drill depth can be up to 0.86 inch, however I have found 0.5 inch deep to be
sufficient.
If you have a very early block without the mounting pad,
it may be possible to use the location to the left, which was designed
for a coolant nipple. The hole/thread size will be too large, so
the hole would need to be reduced/filled or welded and then drilled and
tapped for the M8 thread. It is not known how the change of the
mounting position will affect the knock sensor function.
 
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|
 Oil Pressure Sender.
This
harness will accomodate ANY
redblock oil pressure sender, including an
early 1-wire, late 1-wire, or 2-pole sender
(such as found in a 240 Turbo). |
|
 Fuel Injector
Ballast Resistor. This will
be required only if you will be using Low
Impedance Fuel Injectors. |
|
 LH
2.4 Fuel System Relay (white Fuel
Pump Relay): VOLVO PN 3523608.
This is the standard fuel system/fuel pump relay used in all LH
2.4 Volvos up to about 1993. Using one of these is not required, but this is what you'll
use is you want a direct plug and play relay. |
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LH 2.4
Compatible Flywheel or Flexplate and Crank Position Sensor (CPS). LH
2.4 requires the use of a CPS.
CPS VOLVO PN 271949, 3547847, 1389399.
This conversion harness is design to directly use this sensor. Normally, this means you must
have an LH 2.4 type flywheel (if using a manual
transmission), or an flexplate (if using
an automatic transmission). The top-rear of your engine (where the transmission
bell housing is mounted) should also accept a Crank Position
Sensor bracket or it should be modified to do so if not already
equipped (modification info below).
  
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LH 2.4/EZK uses a CRANK POSITION SENSOR (CPS). If you have an engine that did not originally use a Crank Position Sensor above the flywheel, here is some information you can use if you need to add it to your engine block. The original CPS mounting bracket is Volvo PN 3507510 and it is reportedly NLA as a new part from Volvo. It can be found as a used part.
Update: Dec 2020: There seems to be a source here for now: https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/electrics/sender-units-sensors/bracket-sensor-crankshaft-pulse/1039189/
MODIFICATION: The CPS bracket is mounted using M6 (M6-1.0) bolts, so if your engine black does not have the hole, you will need to drill and tap them.
POSITION: The holes should be centered between the top transmission mounting
holes, 1.575 inch (40 mm) apart. Depth may be up to ~0.9 inch (about 23
mm).
   
Here's a nice 240 build thread post with photos where the owner drilled and tapped his B21FT block for a CPS bracket: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=5631964&postcount=196
And here's the complete build thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=318066
Here's more info about converting an earlier B21 block and bell housing for use with a CPS here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=230687
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What if you want to use a custom Trigger Wheel and Crank Sensor mounted somewhere else?
I've had a few discussions with some people with early 240s who would rather NOT have to install an LH 2.4/EZK compatible flywheel or flexplate or maybe their block and bell housing is not compatible. They wanted to know if they could use a trigger wheel mounted on the front and a CPS (Volvo or aftermarket) mounted to a custom bracket.
Research certainly finds it has been done. The specific parts is still
somewhat a mystery though. It seems only a few people who have
done this are interested in sharing details so far. So finding real solutions is hard work.
So
. . . Here's some info below I've been compiling. I can't say I
have the answers yet. If you can help with more specific info, please EMAIL.
First, some basics.
Here's a Volvo (Bougicord) CPS and an LH 2.4/EZK auto trans flexplate. I got this from this discussion: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=292156. An LH 2.4/EZK manual trans flywheel is also shown below.
This reluctor ring design is described by Volvo as a 60/1 toothed profile (also
referred to as 60-2 profile by most people). It can be confusing, but the use of a
slash "/" creates a different meaning than a minus symbol "-". In
simple terms, a 60/1 (slash) profile is a 60 tooth ring with one section that is
different. A 60-2 (dash) profile puts emphasis on the "2" and means the different
section is 2 teeth long.
Since Volvo used HOLES (not literal teeth), it means there are 58 open holes and 2 closed holes (the gap below is closed). So I'll call this a closed gap. A Volvo sensor is said to strictly prefer a closed gap as shown here. It needs to sense solid steel for that 2-tooth gap, not an opening as you'll see below.
Also since the CPS uses a magnet, the reluctor ring always needs to be STEEL.
 
Some reluctor rings like this one below will have an open area where that gap is (let's call this an open gap). This type is common in later Volvos using Motronic fuel injection. There are some differing opinions on whether you can use one like this with LH 2.4/EZK.
Some say YES (with some mods), some say NO. Some who claim it CAN
work with this type of reluctor will suggest that you can reverse the
sensor leads on the CPS. This lead reversal will
alter the timing reference sent to the ECU by 3 degrees, although which direction
is not certain (Source: Volvo Greenbook TP31397 EZK Ignitions, pg 23). You will see some of these references in the discussions posted below.
Refering to the below illustration of a Volvo reluctor ring, the first hole after the long closed
tooth serves as a reference point for the ECU to understand the crankshaft
position each time it passes. That reference point is
not TDC. TDC for Cylinder 1 is the point 90 degrees AFTER that reference
point.
So while
staying consistent with the Volvo design, when counting "teeth" on a
flywheel, reluctor ring or trigger wheel for use with LH 2.4/EZK, it
will will be better to count the HOLES (or recesses).
This is easy to understand when looking at one of the above factory flywheel images, but
if you see a ring with TEETH, remember to just count the recesses, not the
raised teeth.
This photo below is a custom "60-2" LH 2.4/EZK flywheel for Volvo red block from STS Machining in Oregon. It has the correct 58 recesses and a gap with 2 recesses closed (the closed gap). This
means that long tooth is 3 teeth wide (if you're counting raised
teeth), but the I think a correct way to classify it is to say it's the
width of 2 recesses.
So let's move to a discussion of a non-factory trigger wheel.
The trigger wheel at below left is a "60-2"
that the writer (lookforjoe) of the below discussion bought for his LH 2.4/EZK conversion.
The trigger wheel on the right is the same wheel, which he modified. He converted the OPEN GAP to a CLOSED GAP
by filling
in the opening (using steel filler rod) and grinding one more small
recess to get the correct number of 58 recesses. So the final result is a solid gap
the width of 2 recesses. If you're counting raised teeth, the solid gap is 3 teeth wide.
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/lh2-4-conversion.29828/
There are recommendations for a trigger wheel to be thicker than most available 1/8 inch wheels. A thicker wheel will provide a stronger signal. So a good minimum thickness will be 5 mm.
1/4 inch (6.3 mm) is close and would work well. Of course such a
trigger wheel will be custom and may set you back $100, but at least it
doesn't need modifications.
A bracket of some type will be needed to mount a CPS. It should be rigid and
have some capability to adjust the CPS position. lookforjoe set his with a 1 mm air gap.
This sheet metal bracket below can be found at KL
Racing in Sweden: https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/givarfaste-2-motorblock-volvo-b230.html or RetroTurbo in the UK at http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=volvo-b21-b23-b200-b230-trigger-wheel-kit. Or if you're able, you can fabricate a bracket.
Try to place the CPS so it's less likely to be interfered with when changing belts, etc.
My preference would be a bracket under the pan like this, although this one seems a little overbuilt to me.
The sensor in this photo is Ford PC19, which is a VR sensor like the Volvo Bougicord, except it provides a stronger signal (Ref: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=306095). NOTE: LH 2.4 is not being used in this photo below.
If you can help or add to this, please email.
RELEVANT DISCUSSIONS
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=292156
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=253353
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216307
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=306095
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/lh2-4-conversion.29828/.
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 On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Unit. VOLVO PN 1398703. This box is found in any LH 2.4 or Regina EFI equipped 240, 700 or 900 model. |
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OPTIONAL ITEMS TO THINK ABOUT
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This is an Ostrich 2.0 Emulator. It can be found at: http://www.moates.net/. This device gives you the ability to DIY tune your LH 2.4 ECU.
 <<< This pic: Here's one mounted
on an LH 2.4 ECU being used with the conversion harness offer here. It's being used on a
B230FT. This customer is using this device to allow him to create
live tuning for his LH 2.4 system. He uses TunerPro RT on a laptop to emulate a tune to the Ostrich. The Ostrich
has a lead to a chip that replaces the stock chip in your LH 2.4 ECU.
After completing your tune, you then emulate it one last time and then
disconnect the laptop.
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 Comprehensive installation info for the OSTRICH: http://ipdown.net/jetronic.info/tiki-index.php?page=Ostrich+Install
More info can be found at: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=227153 (thread with some broken images). |
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