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Yoshifab Catch Can

     UPDATED: August 29, 2018                       CONTACT       
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If you have any comments or if you can improve this information, please feel free to email.

This page covers the installation of my new Yoshifab breather box (catch can) in my 242 Turbo. 
Yoshifab offers these items in their pages at the following links: 

The breather box is designed with two IN ports, so that you can vent crankcase
vapor from two different sources. The illustration also shows the use of a vented oil filler cap and a vent/drain fitting for the block, which are available from Yoshifab.

This is the Yoshifab breather box. The top and side ports are -10 AN Male.  The bottom drain port is -8 AN Male.
<<< This block vent/drain fitting plate from Yoshifab is designed to replace the original Volvo breather box.
It has two ports. The vent port is a -10 AN Male fitting.  The drain port is -8 AN Male.  If you're not aware, the Volvo engine block has a long plastic tube inside that extends from that drain port down into the oil sump.  The bottom of that tube is submerged in the oil. This ensures that the drain does not get any interference from crankcase pressures.  So basically this system is designed so that the bottom of the breather box is to be placed somewhere close to and above the engine block drain port.  This is not always convenient in a Volvo due to tight space, although there are some who have done it that way.  As you'll see below, I opted to NOT use this block drain port.  That drain port can be capped off with a -8 AN Female Cap, such as this item from Summit Racing: Earl's  -8 AN Cap AT992908ERL.

AN racing style hose internal dimensions are measured in 1/16th of an inch increments. 
-8 AN is 8/16th of an inch ID (1/2 inch).  -10 AN is 10/16ths of an inch ID (5/8 inch). 

<<< This is not my car. This pic shows what most people are doing with this catch can.  You can see here it's mounted on the left side of the engine.  This one is mounted to a bracket that's attached to the brake booster. That's a good location, except for there being so little space. Below you'll see I decided to do it very differently.
<<< I decided to mount the breather box on the right side of the engine bay in the back corner.
<<<  The brackets I used are aluminum light mount brackets for ATVs. I found them on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072M59GXX/They're made for a 3/4 inch tube (and other sizes). 3/4 inch is the size of that 242 GT diagonal brace.
<<< My plan was to route the breather box drain into a Y-fitting that joins with the turbo oil drain.  This tends to make things complicated down there as you can see here, so some planning was needed for all the AN hose fittings to fit in a small space.  The turbo oil drain uses Summit PTFE lined racing hose, which is a high temperature hose designed for hot oil (rated to 400 degrees Fahrenheit). So I used the same type PTFE hose for the breather box drain. I wanted to use a hose that was rated high temperature since this stuff is so close to the exhaust manifold and turbo.

<<< Here are the connectors used at the Y-fitting.  The -10 AN Y-fitting has male ends. It uses a reducer to -8 AN for the hose that goes up to the breather box.
Not shown here is the turbo oil drain (seen in above photos), which connects to the other Y-fitting male end. It uses a short piece of Summit Racing -10 AN PTFE hose SUM-2201010, one Summit Racing PTFE Hose End -10 AN 90 degrees, SUM-250087B, and one Summit Racing PTFE Hose End -10 Straight, SUM 250090B.  More detailed information about the turbo drain hose can be found in a separate article HERE.

Assembling PTFE hose ends is not difficult, but you'll need some guidance if it's your first time.  There are good instructions here: http://anfittingguide.com/install-ptfe-hose-fittings/.  And a good video below.
Here's a good video on assembling these PTFE fittings:

<<< I installed a one-way check valve in the hose between the catch can and the Y-fitting. It needs to be placed so flow goes down only.  A check valve is used in this situation because the drain goes into the oil sump above the oil level.  A different option would be if the drain went into the sump below the oil level.  A check valve would not be needed in that case.

You can't see it here, but I used a 45 degree adapter (-8 AN Female to -8 AN Female) between the catch can and the check valve.
Like this one:  https://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/AT939208/10002/-1

More detail about the check valve is below.

This is the check valve. It accepts -8 AN fittings and can be found at Summit Racing here: One-Way Check Valve -8 AN Male SUM-220193B

Proper Drain without using a Checkvalve
<<< If you would rather place a port in the oil pan below the oil level instead of having a Y-fitting, this bulkhead fitting would be a good option. This would also eliminate the need for a check valve, so thing should be much simpler (except for pulling the oil pan). This bulkhead fitting can be found here: Fragola Bulkhead -8 AN Male 483108-BL .  
<<< Yoshifab offers this adapter plate to mount an AN fitting vent to the fuel pump opening in the engine block.  I'm using this opening as a crankcase vent location instead of using a vented oil filler cap.
The AN fitting is removable from the adapter plate in case you want a different fitting on there.  The plate is threaded -10 AN Straight Thread Female (O-Ring). An o-ring needs to be used to seal this connection.
<<<  The 90 degree fitting I'm using is this one: -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End 90, SUM-260087B.  The barbed end is made for -10 AN Twist-Tite rubber hose, which has a 5/8 inch ID. You can also use
Aeroquip Socketless fittings in size -10 AN. Summit Twist-Tite hose is a similar hose (but cheaper) compared to Aeroquip Socketless hose, however the Aeroquip products, particularly the fittings, are considered to be better quality.  For a light-duty application like this breather, I didn't consider the higher quality to be critical.
Since the barb is 5/8 inch wide, you can use just about any hose with an ID of 5/8 inch. 

Yoshifab suggests using 5/8 inch PVC clear reinforced flexible tubing as a less expensive option over Socketless or other racing hose. The clear tu
bing has a fairly high temperature rating (150 degrees Fahrenheit) and since it's transparent, you can see what's going on inside if you're concerned about blockages.  I bought some on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRUROKO/
<<< Here's a pic showing the 5/8 inch clear PVC tubing in use at the catch can.  The top port got routed through the back of the strut tower, then to the front of the engine bay. It's connected it to the intake tube between my air fllter and turbo. The 150 degree curved fitting I used on top of the catch can is this one: -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End 150 Degree, SUM-260091B. 

<<< The straight fitting closest to the firewall on the catch can is for the hose going across the cam cover and then down past the intake manifold to the block breather vent. This fitting is -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End, SUM-260090B.  The same fitting can be used on the Yoshifab vent plate that replaces the stock breather box.

The front facing curved fitting on the catch can is a 120 degree curved fitting.  That hose goes to a nylon T-fitting near the intake manifold (it can be seen in next pic). This 120 degree fitting is -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End SUM-260088B
<<< Here you can see the front hose continues down through the intake manifold, where it turns forward to the fuel pump plate vent. The tee-fitting sends another hose forward to the cam cover vent.   I have an elbow-fitting shoved in the cam cover vent hole.  I put some heat-shrink tubing on it and it fit in the hose nice and tight.

5/8 inch nylon T-fittings and Elbow-fittings are cheap and nylon will hold up to high temp conditions.
  If you have any comments or if you can improve this information, please feel free to email.

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