|UPDATED: November 26, 2018 CONTACT|
|D O M A
I N S
page covers the installation of my new Yoshifab
breather box (catch
can) in my 242 Turbo during the Summer of 2018.
As you read this you should know I don't always follow directions and I have been known to ignore sound advice. This install continues with that philosophy.
Yoshifab offers these items in their pages at the following links:
The can is designed with two IN ports, so that you can vent crankcase vapor from two different sources. The illustration also shows the use of a vented oil filler cap and a vent/drain fitting for the block, which are available from Yoshifab.
<<< This is the Yoshifab catch can. The top and side ports are all -10 AN Male thread. The bottom oil drain port is -8 AN Male thread.
This fitting has two ports. The drain port on the left side has a -8 AN Male fitting. The vent port on the right side has a -10 AN Male fitting. If you're not aware, the Volvo engine block has a long plastic tube inside that extends from that drain port down into the oil sump. The bottom of that tube is submerged in the oil. Having this drain extended below the oil level ensures that this pipe drains freely and does not get any interference from crankcase pressures. So basically this system is designed so that when an external catch can is installed, the bottom of the can is to be placed somewhere reasonably close to and above the level of this drain port. This is not always convenient in a Volvo due to tight space, although there are people who have done it that way with good success.
That drain port can be capped off with a -8 AN Female Cap, such as this item from Summit Racing: Earl's -8 AN Cap (AT992908ERL). This is what I used, since my drain is on the other side of the engine.
As you'll see below, I opted to NOT use the drain port on this fitting.
|<<< This is not my car.
I added this pic to show what most people are doing when installing a catch can in a RWD Volvo. You can see here that a Yoshifab catch can has been mounted on the left (intake) side of this engine. It's mounted to a bracket that's attached to the brake booster. That's a good location, except for there being very little space there. Below you'll see I decided to do it differently.
I decided instead to mount the catch can on the right (exhaust) side of the engine
in the back corner. No, I'm not crazy and yes, it'll work.
My drain to the crankcase will be on the exhaust side too. Keep reading.
brackets I used are aluminum mounting
brackets for ATV lights. I found
on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072M59GXX/.
These are made for a 3/4 inch tube (and available for
inch is the size of the
242 GT diagonal brace tube I have there.
|<<< My plan routed the catch can drain down into a Y-fitting
the turbo oil drain just above the block drain. This
Y-fitting tends to make things a little complicated
down there as you can see here, so some planning was needed for all
fittings to fit in a small space. The turbo oil drain that I
previously installed uses Summit PTFE
lined racing hose,
which is a high temperature hose designed for hot oil (rated to 400
degrees Fahrenheit). So I used the same type PTFE hose for the
catch can. I wanted to use a hose that was rated for high
temperature since this stuff is so close
to the exhaust manifold and
Here are the connectors used to assemble this Y-fitting. The
Y-fitting has -10 AN male ends. It
uses a reducer to -8 AN for the hose that
goes up to the breather box.
Not shown here is the turbo oil drain (seen in above photos), which connects to the other upper end of the Y-fitting. That hose uses a short piece of Summit Racing -10 AN PTFE hose (SUM-2201010), one Summit Racing PTFE Hose End -10 AN 90 degrees (SUM-250087B), and one Summit Racing PTFE Hose End -10 Straight (SUM 250090B). Specific detailed information about the turbo drain hose fitting that fits into the block can be found in a separate article HERE.
Assembling PTFE hose ends is not difficult, but you'll need some guidance if it's your first time. There are good instructions here: http://anfittingguide.com/install-ptfe-hose-fittings/.
And a good video below.
a good video on
assembling these PTFE fittings:
I installed a one-way
check valve in the hose between the catch can and the Y-fitting.
It needs to
be placed so flow goes down only. A check valve
is used in this situation because the drain goes into
the oil sump above the oil
level. A different option would be if the drain went into
the sump below the oil level. A
check valve WOULD NOT be needed if this tube drained to a port BELOW
You can't see it here, but I used a 45 degree adapter (-8 AN Female to -8 AN Female) between the catch can and the check valve.
Like this one: https://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/AT939208/10002/-1
More detail about the check valve is below.
This is the check valve. It accepts -8 AN fittings on both ends and can be found at Summit Racing here: One-Way Check Valve -8 AN Male (SUM-220193B).
The summit instructions explicitely tell you not to screw with the spring that holds the check-valve closed. I couldn't stop myself. I felt it was too tight, so I tweaked it until it was much easier to push open. I want this to drain freely and not back up into the catch can. I'm pretty confident in my decision.
After several months and a number of hours of driving time, I pulled things apart to inspect and found everything PERFECTLY CLEAN. Things are working well.
|<<< You may instead place a port on the exhaust side of the oil pan below the oil level instead of having a Y-fitting. This bulkhead fitting pictured would be a good option. This would also eliminate the need for a check valve, so things would be much simpler (except for having to pull the oil pan to drill a hole). This bulkhead fitting can be found here: Fragola Bulkhead -8 AN Male (483108-BL) .|
Yoshifab offers this adapter plate to mount an AN fitting vent to the
pump opening in the engine block. I'm using this opening as a
instead of using a
vented oil filler cap.
The AN fitting is removable from the adapter plate in case you want a different fitting on there. The plate is threaded -10 AN Straight Thread Female (O-Ring). An o-ring needs to be used to seal this connection.
<<< The 90 degree fitting I'm using is this one: -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End 90 (SUM-260087B). The barbed end is made for -10 AN Twist-Tite rubber hose, which has a 5/8 inch ID. You can also use Aeroquip Socketless fittings in size -10 AN. Summit Twist-Tite hose is a similar hose (but cheaper) compared to Aeroquip Socketless hose, however the Aeroquip products, particularly the fittings, are considered to be better quality. For a light-duty application like this breather, I didn't consider the higher quality to be critical.
|Since the barb is 5/8 inch wide, you can
use just about any hose with
an ID of
Yoshifab suggests using 5/8 inch PVC clear reinforced flexible tubing as a less expensive option over Socketless or other racing hose. The clear tubing has a fairly high temperature rating (150 degrees Fahrenheit) and since it's transparent, you can see what's going on inside if you're concerned about blockages. I bought some on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRUROKO/
Here's a pic showing the 5/8 inch clear PVC tubing in use at the catch
can. The top port got routed through the back of the strut tower,
then to the front
of the engine bay. It's
connected it to the
intake air tube between my air fllter and turbo. The 150 degree curved fitting I
used on top of the
catch can is this one: -10 AN Summit
Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End 150 Degree (SUM-260091B).
The straight fitting closest to the firewall on the catch can is for
the hose going across the cam cover and then down past the intake
the block breather vent.
This fitting is -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose
End (SUM-260090B). The same fitting can be used on the
Yoshifab vent plate that replaces the stock breather box.
The curved fitting furthest from the firewall is a 120 degree curved fitting. That hose goes to a nylon T-fitting near the intake manifold (it can be seen in next pic). This 120 degree fitting is -10 AN Summit Racing Twist-Tite Swivel Hose End (SUM-260088B).
|<<< Here you can see the hose
closest to the front of the car continues down through the intake
manifold and then turns forward
to the fuel pump plate vent. The tee-fitting you can see here sends
another hose forward
to the cam cover vent.
I have a 90 degree elbow-fitting shoved in the cam cover vent
hole. That elbow was slightly loose it that hole, so I added a
small piece of heat-shrink tubing to the end and it then fit in the
hole nice and snug.
These 5/8 inch nylon T-fittings and Elbow-fittings are cheap and nylon will hold up to high temp conditions.
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